O.K.

So I finally got everything together to install a set of Bullhorns, levers etc. I got the bull horns from Chucks bikes - they were the last item to arrive and look pretty good - certainly a bargain at 10 bucks. Anyway - I found initially that the ends of the bars are cut (intentionally) at an angle which means that the bar end levers didn't fit square to start with. That was easily remedied by simply squaring off the ends with a hacksaw and removing the burr with a file. (Did anyone else have this problem - I'm using the Cane Creek levers since Chucks had sold out of the cheaper Tektros items).

I've now pretty much finished fitting and adjusting the brake levers and cables etc but I have a couple of questions.

1) The Tsunami bars from Chucks have a couple of holes in each side which allow for internal routing of the brake cable - however the internal routing enters near the bar end (as you might expect) and then exits at the right angle bend in the bar (somewhat unexpectedly). What have people done from this point - do you route the cable down the outside of the bar towards the stem from this point and then wrap tape over it as per standard drops. (There is no routing channel on the bull horns like there is on all of my drop bars). Alternatively do you simply route the cable away from the bars at the right angle bend (doesn't seem such a good idea to me but I could tell from any of the pictures in the earlier Bull horn bar thread).

2) Once the cable route has been determined what's the convention for bar wrapping - I'm assuming that the best way to do this would be to start at the ends and work towards the stem wrapping from the inside out. Any comments/advice?

Thanks,

Steve

I've got the same set of bars from Chuck's and was wondering the exact same thing in Q1.

As for Q2, wrapping the bars from the levers back to the stem should give you the same overlap pattern as on standard drop bars. This should keep the tape from unraveling and peeling back.

BTW - good tip on squaring off the end of the bars. I'm going to have to do that. I thought the brake levers were at a weird angle when I dry fitted them.

I found initially that the ends of the bars are cut (intentionally) at an angle which means that the bar end levers didn't fit square to start with. That was easily remedied by simply squaring off the ends with a hacksaw and removing the burr with a file.
1) The Tsunami bars from Chucks have a couple of holes in each side which allow for internal routing of the brake cable - however the internal routing enters near the bar end (as you might expect) and then exits at the right angle bend in the bar (somewhat unexpectedly). What have people done from this point - do you route the cable down the outside of the bar towards the stem from this point and then wrap tape over it as per standard drops. (There is no routing channel on the bull horns like there is on all of my drop bars). Alternatively do you simply route the cable away from the bars at the right angle bend (doesn't seem such a good idea to me but I could tell from any of the pictures in the earlier Bull horn bar thread).

2) Once the cable route has been determined what's the convention for bar wrapping - I'm assuming that the best way to do this would be to start at the ends and work towards the stem wrapping from the inside out. Any comments/advice?

Thanks,

Steve
I squared off the end with a pipe cutter (makes for a cleaner cut) and ran the cable through the holes as intended by the manufacturer. However to ease the exit angle you've got to lengthen the hole toward the rear appx 1/8" or so, until the cable fits into the brake lever. Use a round file and it's easily done, and you don't have the cable running down the side of the bar. You'll still have the cable running across the back of the bar, and you can run a short lenth of cable across the other side of the bar so they feel the same. I also took someone's suggestion (either this forum or the fixed email list...) and wrapped 1/8" sorbothane (wrap it flat with the edges butted together, don't overlap it) overwrapped that with a layer of friction tape, then used the faux cork (rubber) bar tape from Chuck's (wrapped front to back, as you said) and it came out great. Fat bar, easy to grip, supremely comfortable, very slight amount of cushion. I also put a Brooks Swift ti on and my fixed is now more comfortable than my easy chair. Good luck