I have a new Look 585 frame that is waiting for its Chorus compontents to arrive. I have a question regarding the down tube cable adjusters for this bike. My Look 361 and 461 were threaded for the adjusters and the cable adjusters screwed into them, this 585 has unthreaded guides and so they can't screw in. I need to know if there is something else I need? If you have closeup pics of your Look 585 I would love to see them. My 585 will have a UT Chours group, Eurus wheels and a FSA K Wing handlebar. It should Look great when I'm done!:thumbsup:

The Jagwire "Mickey" cable adjusters might work:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/cables.html#hardware

You can can see a picture of the Mickey adjusters her:

http://www.jagwireusa.com/adjusters.html

After owning two other LOOK frames, I was surprised that the 585 had no frame mounted adjusters. Since the cable stop on the frame is not threaded, you may find it impossible to find an adjuster that allows one handed adjustment while riding. I built my 585 last spring without any frame mounted cable adjusters.

The RD has it's own tension adjustment, so that's not a problem during the build. The FD has no tension adjustment. To get the proper tension, I first adjusted the little ring stop screw so there was no chain rub in the little ring and largest cog. Then this screw must be tightend another 1/2 to1 turn, the shift cable pulled tight and clamped down. After the cable is attached, the screw can then be backed out to the normal position and you'll have the proper tension on the cable. Normally, it only takes three clicks to shift from the little ring to the big ring. The FD cage should move to the right on the first click. If it doesn't the cable is too loose.

Thanks for the reply. I came to the same conclusion that I did not need the adjusters. I have a 2003 Chorus group on my Look 461 with 15k miles and have never needed to adjust the adjusters on the downtube. I plan on just ferreling the cable end and placing into the slot.

You might very well not need them but I've had them come in handy on occasion. I once had a Softride Solo that, for some unexplained reason, needed rear derailleur trimming on occasion while riding. It can be annoying to have to stop and get off the bike to make a small trim adjustment and get the shifting to work like buttah again.

I've also had to do some adjustments on a newly cabled bike as the cables stretched. This is usually a one time thing after a few rides with new cables but it's a nice convenience to just do it while riding rather than stopping. Looks like those Jagwire adjusters should do the trick.

of my 2006 Lemond and it doesn't seem to want to thread back in..what's up? If threads in about 1/2 of turn and then gets VERY tough to turn...afraid if I force it I will strip it out..I know it should not be this tough as you 'should' be able to reach down during riding and make a quick adjustment if necessary....any suggestions?

A set of small metric taps is handy to own. Most threads on a bike will be M4, M5 or M6. The barrel adjuster should be an M5. There won;t be room to use a standard tap handle. Get the tap started by hand, then use a small wrench to complete the job. You could also try threading in a steel M5 bolt. If it goes in easily, the barrel adjuster has bad threads.

if I end up screwing it up....can I just replace the barrel adjust housing? That is I strip it out or have to force the screw in just so it stays in place, it doesn't mess up the frame or anything....as you can tell, this is the first time to mess with barrel adjusters on a road bike....getting the M5 bolt will be very hard for me to get as I am currently in Italy and these little things we can get in 10 minutes in the states can take an entire weekend searching for here...

of my 2006 Lemond and it doesn't seem to want to thread back in..what's up? If threads in about 1/2 of turn and then gets VERY tough to turn...afraid if I force it I will strip it out..I know it should not be this tough as you 'should' be able to reach down during riding and make a quick adjustment if necessary....any suggestions?

Sounds like you cross-threaded it. The easiest fix would be to buy a bolt that is long enough to go all the way through the unit, and screw it in from the "back side" (from the side that faces the rear of the bike). This should clean the threads all the way throug and allow you to (carefully) thread in the barrel adjuster.