I have a 1984 Centurion Dave Scott Ironman roadbike in near-mint condition. I bought it almost two years ago, and it still has completely original parts. Stock 105's entirely. Nitto stem and bars and seat post. I want to keep the post, bars and stem while replacing the "moving parts". And also want to keep it DOWNTUBE shifting, if thats at all possible. Everything I see now is all thumbshifting and such, that doesn't look pretty at all....

I have been poking around the internet reading up on Campagnolo and Shimano new stuff and have been draw to the Campy's.

I want to know if anyone has done the same as I want to do, which is take a bike made in japan from the mid 80's, and throw on brand new Centaurs or Chorus or something of the like. And even if they have just upgraded the old Shimano to Dura-Ace.

Specifically, what problems might I encounter while upgrading; crank fittings? Using downtube shifters with campys (is that even possible)? Etc.

Thank you in advance for your help. I hope to get this beautiful classic outfitted by the end of the March rains for some spring races.

* You have to respace your frame to accept the 130mm rear hub.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
* Campagnolo doesn't produce downtube shifters anymore.
http://www.branfordbike.com/brake/brk03.html

However, if you prefer friction shifting, you can use shifters from any manufacturer. It's indexed shifting that is tricky.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/upgrade-gears.html

Contrary to what has already been posted, it's really not necessary to permanently widen the rear dropouts to 130mm, with a steel frame. If you can find someone competant to do it correctly, it not a bad idea though. I once tried it on a higher level 1984 Centurian. I spread the dropouts about an inch wider an they just sprang back to the original width.

I would personally advise against downtube shifters. Ergo levers are a HUGE improvement over downtube shifters. Campy ergo levers don't look much different than ordinary brake levers of the past. They aren't huge and ugly like Shimano shifters. The fact that the frame has downtube shifter mounts is also not a problem. Cable stops that mount onto the downtube mounts used to come with every pair of ergo levers. If they no longer do, it's easy to find them.

You won't have any problem mounting a new bottom bracket and crank. New frames still use the same English threaded BB shell.

Contrary to what has already been posted, it's really not necessary to permanently widen the rear dropouts to 130mm, with a steel frame. If you can find someone competant to do it correctly, it not a bad idea though. I once tried it on a higher level 1984 Centruian. I spread the dropouts about an inch wider an they just sprang back to the original width.

I would personally advise against downtube shifters. Ergo levers are a HUGE improvement over downtube shifters. Campy ergo levers don't look much different than ordinary brake levers of the past. They aren't huge and ugly like Shimano shifters. The fact that the frame has downtube shifter mounts is also not a problem. Cable stops that mount onto the downtube mounts used to come with every pair of ergo levers. If they no longer do, it's easy to find them.

You won't have any problem mounting a new bottom bracket and crank. New frames still use the same English threaded BB shell.

I heartily agree with EVERYTHING said here. I upgraded my late '80's vintage British Falcon (which shares all the dimensions/threading of the Japanese Centurion) to Campy Centaur 10 without even coldsetting the rear spacing (albeit I did check the hanger alignment with a 130mm 10 speed hub in the frame.) It works flawlessly.

I also second the advice on Ergo's. I've got three stainless steel pins in my left elbow as a result of a crash while reaching for the downtube shifter. I don't maintain that I wouldn't have crashed given the circumstances, but it did contribute to a very awkward fall. Being able to keep one's hands on the bars while shifting is, in my opinion, a genuine "safety" advancement.:thumbsup:

I have the same bike and have upgraded it while keeping the mid 80's look.

1. I rebuilt the wheels with Shimano 105 9sp hubset
2. Installed a 105 octalink double crankset and ultegra BB
3. Kept the original 105 FD- works fine
4. Replaced the downtube shifters with 9sp Durace downtube shifters (I love amazing friends by being able shift while standing on the pedals)
5. Kept the original 105 aero levers but replace the brake calipers with later 105 dual pivot calipers.
6. Since I ride in the mountains I am using a mountain 11-32 cassette and XT rd.
7. The only work that the LBS did was cold set the rear spacing and install a Ritchey headset.

I have put about 4,000 miles on this bike. This was my first "real" road bike and I since picked up a new road bike that fits me better. I now keep this one in my office so I am always ready for a ride.

There are some problems with the STI/Ergo levers: they are expensive, Centaur - Record will cost $150-300; they are not as reliable as downtube shifters, that's why many tourists don't like them.

Also, if you want to use Campagnolo cassettes, you need to rebuild the rear wheel with a Campy-compatible hub.
If you like a Campy crankset, you can combine it with Shimano parts without a problem.

Using downtube shifters with campys (is that even possible)?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Campagnolo-Record-Downtube-Shifters-NEW-No-Reserve_W0QQitemZ180086320311QQihZ008QQcategoryZ36 140QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item 180086320311

These are friction shifters.
If he wants indexed shifters, he can use 10-speed bar end Campagnolo shifters as a base for conversion.
http://www.branfordbike.com/brake/brk03.html
I don't know if Branford bike still sells this conversion kit.