Hi All,

I'm as yet undecided about wether to go for SRAM Force or Campag Chorus.

I like the sound of the new force shifters and the clean lines they give, but, I've heard they're having problems with cranks loosening? Not only that but some brakes are being recalled.

I was talking to my lbs the other day and he said he isnt touching SRAM for a few years yet because it's all supposed to be being recalled soon. He may have been giving me some BS as he's a shimano dealer (Yuck!) but I've spoken with other shops and they just dont want to touch it.

I'm still 90% set on getting force though. I'm just a bit wary of some of the issues.

Has anyone had any problems with the Force cranks?

Now a compatability question -

If I dont want the SRAM force cranks can I run a FSA K-Force with shimano rings? I've been told that Force is shimano compatable as in the rings and cassettes?

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers.

Hi,
Don't let your lbs scare you so much. Are you reading reviews in magazines and on the web? I have 500 miles since Jan 3rd on an all Force set up and I love it. Previously rode only Campy Veloce & Chorus.
Yes there are some set up quirks with SRAM and you need a mechanic who is talented, adventurous and patient with you. You will likely need some patience too.
Also, the recalled brakes were an isolated incident of just a few very early calipers and they have been recalled free of charge according to my lbs who has one customer affected.
Next, I'm not having a problem with the crank and I weigh 170 and climb lots of hills. Have done Mt. Hamilton, many Santa Cruz Mts hills, and Sierra Rd to watch KOM during ToC. and so far no crank problems.
The mechanic at my lbs says you can run Shimano if you want but again be patient with mix & match. He said the shimano cog needs shimano chain to be most successful. He felt crankset would work find but again fd adjusting issues may be fun. It was fun for us and we were running all SRAM components. Just a learning curve. You need to be very meticulous to set this stuff up.
To say all SRAM force/rival is going to be recalled is pretty irresponsible and if SRAM heard that they would probably crap a load all over him. They are a good company and have loads of experience with mtn bike setups. Sure there will be some growing pains but it will be worth it.
Why not go to a shop that sells SRAM factory equipped bikes (i.e. Orbea or Specialized ) and actually test ride one. You will be impressed.
Good luck

If you have tried the following combos, please report your results:

1. SRAM Force drivetrain with Shimano Dura-Ace FD-7800 front derailleur (reason: I have a brand-new Dura-Ace front derailleur already)

2. SRAM Force drivetrain with Shimano Dura-Ace 10-speed cassette (reason: Dura-Ace is lighter than SRAM)

I'm thinking of upgrading my Dura-Ace 9-speed drivetrain, which is getting pretty worn out, with the following:
Shifters: SRAM Force
Front derailleur: Force, or keep Dura-Ace
Rear derailleur: Force
Cassette: SRAM or Dura-Ace 10-speed
Chain: SRAM, Shimano, or KMC 10-speed
Crankset: FSA K-Force Light with 50/34 chainrings, or keep current Shimano FC-R700 compact crankset

Thoughts?

Thanks.

I have the full Force setup on my '06 Orbea Orca. I've replaced the brakes as per the recall. I changed the original Sram 11-26 over to a Dura-Ace 12-27 cogset to get the lower climbing gear. I did not use a Shimano chain, however. I put a new Sram chain on. I have minor mis-shifting issues on the rear, and after reading some of the other posts, this may me remedied by changing to a Shimano chain. I use the Force 34-50 compact crank with zero front shifting issues. None. This is a great setup. I spoke to the Sram dealer service manager, Chris McKenney, who assured me that the recall is only about brakes. No other component in the group is recalled.

If you have tried the following combos, please report your results:

1. SRAM Force drivetrain with Shimano Dura-Ace FD-7800 front derailleur (reason: I have a brand-new Dura-Ace front derailleur already)

You need to use a SRAM FD because it actuallyhas a wider gate and the shimano will not work without rub on the high or low gear combos. With a SRAm FD you cand set it us so that you do not have chain rub.

I have mine set you right now using the shifters and deraillurs I have the cranks, breaks, cassette and chain but they are not installed (waiting for new frame). Everything works well the system is different feeling and sounding the shimano mainly in the fact that the shifts are are more a positive feel which some people may like and some may not.

The only recall with SRAM is the front titanium brake bolt. No other recalls at this time nor probably will be. As long as you use the SRAM front and rear derails. there should be no compatibility problems with the crank. The cassette, however, must either be SRAM's or Shimano's. I went with the SRAM crank, but with Dura-Ace cassette and chain because they are lighter (about 45 grams total). I have about 3500 miles on my SRAM gear and have had zero problems. It's light, solid and well-tested; it's not going away. I highly recommend it.

The only recall with SRAM is the front titanium brake bolt. No other recalls at this time nor probably will be.


The recall includes the rear brake as well:

http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/news/SRAM_Exp_techblt_2.pdf

I have large hands and find the Campy hoods more comfortable than the Shimano because of the flatter platform. Does anyone think the Force/Rival hoods will be comfortable for people with large hands.

ppl who like campy generally like sram just as much/more. it's a flat profile, just as campy, and is wider.

I'm running SRAM rival shifters/derailleurs with an FSA Energy cranks (w/ stock FSA rings) Seems to work out fine, althought setting up the front shifting took some time and patience.

I was running a force setup w/ a d/a cassette and I had ZERO rear shifting problems while using a KMC X10SL chain. As a matter of fact it worked so well I switched to a KCNC/Token cassette, which drops about 60+ grams compared to the D/A cassette. Shifting is still near flawless.

Hi all,
Well, so far over 600 miles on all SRAM Force stuff and I'm still cranking. My latest minor problem is that at mile 250 I broke off the "ramped tooth" on the second cog up (12 teeth) then with a free replacement cassette I broke the same tooth off now at mile 500.
Has anyone else had this problem?
Yes, I'm running all SRAM including the chain.
My lbs and their contacts at SRAM are puzzled?
Have you heard any explanations?
BTW, the only other customer at my lbs with an all SRAM setup has also broken off the same tooth on a cassette.

I am running a complete Force group and I am having problems with the chain line when in the big ring and the smallest (outer) cog. For me this gearing is my 50 - 11 as I am running compact cranks. When in this gear, the chain wants to shift to the cog to the left and if I spin the pedals backwards, the chain will come off to the outside of the big chainring in the front. I went to a local pro shop and asked if they experienced this problem and they said no. We then took their Sram equipped Orbea bikes off the rack and they all did the same thing. Imagine having your chain come off on a fast descent and then trying to hammer up the next incline in this gear only to find the chain hanging on your pedal. Scary! I really want to fix this, but I haven't found anyone who knows how. Any suggestions? Other than this problem, I am enjoying the setup. If I don't use this gear, I have no problems whatsoever with the group.

I have 50-11 setup too and luckily not having this problem. Is FD set screw in too far which would let FD travel outward too far. I know this dial in is very sensitive but I've got mine set up so chain just barely missed outside plate of FD when in 50-11 position.
RD problem sounds like cable tension not enough because RD wants to move up to 12 tooth cog??? Again, after fighting those gremlins I really did not have much RD problem just problem of snaping off the "ramped tooth" of the 12 cog every 250 miles. I'm now on my 3rd cassette and nearing 250 miles on this one. Yikes?????
Overall, I really like the setup and figured my lbs would use me as a guinnea pig so I knew that going in. If you have a good relationship with them just be patient and keep going back at the first sign of problems. Smile and laugh lots!!!!!

I raced a Rival equipped cross bike most of the winter and never missed a shift the whole season. Just put on a Force kit to my Serotta and had no issues with the "shake down ride" at lunch today.

Arvinlynes--sounds like your limit screw is not set correctly. Turn the bottom screw in maybe a 1/3rd of a turn in and should take care of it. I am running a compact 34-50 with an 11-23 at this point. Have a couple of 11/26's from cross season if I need them.

So far, this is great stuff. If Rival/Force can handle a full cross season of mud, snow and dust, it can handle just about anything the road will throw at it.

good luck all

how's front shifting for your guys. I tried for a short term, rear was fast but front was slower than usual. First sram group built by my mechanic.

"how's front shifting for your guys. I tried for a short term, rear was fast but front was slower than usual. First sram group built by my mechanic."

The front has a long throw and takes some getting used to. I've had mine about a month and spent a fair amount of time adjusting the FD to get it right but now it's in its sweet spot and shifts fairly quickly and smoothly. Shifting up into the big ring isn't lightning fast but shift down to the small ring is on par with the RD.

I've decided to go SRAM this year - mostly 'cause I really like the ergonomics of the shifters. I can't stand my DA ones anymore.

Thanx for speaking up about the "training" time for new mechanics with SRAM - I'm sure I'm gonna be learning a fair bit over the next few weeks.

I'm running Force shifters, FD & RD with Campy casset with Shimano Ultegra cranks & brakes. I hate the Shimano shifters cause of the cables. Everything works great.

The setup of the FD isnt as hard as everyone says. Just put the bike in each of the gears likely to rub, and back down the screw ever so slightly till it doesn't. Oh, and you can go with Shimano cogs and chains for smooth shifting, but not Wipperman. The connector link is two bulky to get around the jockey pulleys.

The setup of the FD isnt as hard as everyone says. Just put the bike in each of the gears likely to rub, and back down the screw ever so slightly till it doesn't. Oh, and you can go with Shimano cogs and chains for smooth shifting, but not Wipperman. The connector link is two bulky to get around the jockey pulleys.

You can however use a shimano chain with wipperman link.

I love my force, and I am the biggest fan of SRAM ever. I wouldn't touch thier crank when you can get some FSA's for decent prices. Much better stuff.

brian
theroadbike.com (http://www.theroadbike.com)

I've just rebuilt my F3c sans Dura Ace, with a complete SRAM Force drive train, including the cranks. WAY more precise. I'll take Force over DA any day of the year. Now I'm thinking of doing the same thing to my F2c, and ebaying both DA drive trains. Heck, I'll take Ultegra over DA as well, the Ultegra grouppos on my Leader and Tirreno are way more consistent than my two Felts with DA. But not now....

Ahhh... Another convert. Welcome to the fold, LionheartDDS!

Love my Sram Force groupset. I climb some steep mountains in California and switched over to a Dura Ace 12-27 rear cassette. At first, I noticed som mis-shifting, but that has completely gone away. The drivetrain is simply flawless, with no issues ever.

I have been reading a lot on the new Sram Red groupset that will hit the market in the fall. I won't be changing over, but I do like some of the innovation that they are announcing such as adjustable reach on the brake/shifter levers.

The one new product that I have on order through my LBS is the new 11-28 cassette. Sram is milling their new cassettes from a single block of steel (the larger seven cogs, I believe, with the smaller three splined on.) Now, with an 11-28... "Ain't No Mountain High Enough!"

I am a die hard Campy Racer. I just switched over to SRAM FORCE on my racing bike and immediatley noticed as I tested my bike that the SRAM FORCE Crankset moved 2mm from side to side as if the chainrings were bent. Upon further analysis, I took the chainrings off the crankarms to see if they were in deed bent. To my surprise they sat fully flush and flat on my workbench. From what I can tell, the problem might be with the Carbon Spindles themself. Either that, or my sprinting legs are bending the chainrings at 450 watts. Has anyone experienced this too?

Hi All,

I'm as yet undecided about wether to go for SRAM Force or Campag Chorus.

I like the sound of the new force shifters and the clean lines they give, but, I've heard they're having problems with cranks loosening? Not only that but some brakes are being recalled.

I was talking to my lbs the other day and he said he isnt touching SRAM for a few years yet because it's all supposed to be being recalled soon. He may have been giving me some BS as he's a shimano dealer (Yuck!) but I've spoken with other shops and they just dont want to touch it.

I'm still 90% set on getting force though. I'm just a bit wary of some of the issues.

Has anyone had any problems with the Force cranks?

Now a compatability question -

If I dont want the SRAM force cranks can I run a FSA K-Force with shimano rings? I've been told that Force is shimano compatable as in the rings and cassettes?

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers.

I am a die hard Campy Racer. I just switched over to SRAM FORCE on my racing bike and immediatley noticed as I tested my bike that the SRAM FORCE Crankset moved 2mm from side to side as if the chainrings were bent. Upon further analysis, I took the chainrings off the crankarms to see if they were in deed bent. To my surprise they sat fully flush and flat on my workbench. From what I can tell, the problem might be with the Carbon Spindles themself. Either that, or my sprinting legs are bending the chainrings at 450 watts. Has anyone experienced this too?

I have not experienced anything like you are describing. I weigh 190 and put some serious torque on my spindles when climbing. I live in So. Cal. and climb some intense 20%+ grades, so I should be causing this if it's an issue with Force design or materials. It seems like 2 mm would be enough displacement to de-rail your chain, or at the very least, cause some major chain-rubbing on the front derailleur.

I am a die hard Campy Racer. I just switched over to SRAM FORCE on my racing bike and immediatley noticed as I tested my bike that the SRAM FORCE Crankset moved 2mm from side to side as if the chainrings were bent. Upon further analysis, I took the chainrings off the crankarms to see if they were in deed bent. To my surprise they sat fully flush and flat on my workbench. From what I can tell, the problem might be with the Carbon Spindles themself. Either that, or my sprinting legs are bending the chainrings at 450 watts. Has anyone experienced this too?

Master2129 - I'm having the exact same problem with my Force cranks. I bought my new Force group from a reseller on ebay, so I think I'm stuck with the wobble. I don't think I can call up SRAM and say "I bought this group from a unauthorized ebay seller, please warrantee." Have you been able to resolve this problem? I'm thinking about trying shims...

I like the group, but the quality is not campy.

Master2129 - I'm having the exact same problem with my Force cranks. I bought my new Force group from a reseller on ebay, so I think I'm stuck with the wobble. I don't think I can call up SRAM and say "I bought this group from a unauthorized ebay seller, please warrantee." Have you been able to resolve this problem? I'm thinking about trying shims...

I like the group, but the quality is not campy.


Go the the sram website and under the tech videos, they have a video about installing the BB, and they say sometimes it will slide from side to side, and they say just attempt to install again and it should fix the problem.

I don't understand all the comments about having to have a mechanic set SRAM up, or its being finicky.

I am a Campy fan but installed SRAM Rival this last weekend on a bike for the first tim.

I thought the stuff went on faster and easier than anything I have ever installed before. Easy to set up ad stupid easy to adjust.

I've read an article about fixing the long throw required to shift to the large chainring.

"Yeah that was my biggest gripe before fixing it because you have to push it over real far. I would watch it work and could not understand why I would have to push it almost a full 90 degrees from starting point. And I asked the SRAM mechanic in the wheel pit at BikeJam and he told me it is a fairly common problem. Because housing comes with plastic ferrals and it works with shimano and campy. So it is standard for bike shops to install plastic ferrals into the shifter.

Do this to solve the problem.
Pull the cover on your hoods back towards the lever. Look at the cable housing that runs into your shifter. At the end of the housing you will either see a plastic Ferral or a Stainless Steel Ferral. If it is plastic you can easily take the ferral off and put a stainless steel one on. It requires taking you bar tape off and taking the cable off the front derailleur. I pulled the plastic one off the housing and popped the stainless steel one on. Retaped and put the cable on and presto. It works a hell of a lot smoother. And I swear it is probably only about 35 degrees instead of the 90 degrees. Real distracting. But now it is almost effortless."

from http://pedalnaround.blogspot.com/2007/06/experience-with-sram.html

Master2129

I have noticed that my large chainring (a 50 tooth SRAM "hard anodized") has noticable axial runout. The small ring appears to have none? I was only studying this area because my chainrings are making a ridiculous amount of noise. Kind of sounds like I am running a bone dry chain or something (believe me, I am not!). My theory is that the anodizing on the SRAM rings is the source of the noise but I have not heard this complaint from others. The noise is heard only while under load. It is not from the FD cage. It is so loud I could not possible sneak up on someone on a climb! I'm thinking about changing the chain or the rings but I'd rather not have to spend even more $ than I already have. Any comments?

gradoso:

I have been experiencing a serious problem with the shift force required to actuate my front derailleur and the response I got from an ORBEA tech support technician regarding his setup was as follows:

The housing on the bars are: brakes in the front and shifter on the back. The cables are not crossing under the downtube, just straight. The shifting force is not any different than campy or shimano. I don’t have an inline adjuster for the front derailleur, I think that they only pull the cable a small amount, and you really can get the tension on the cable by pulling it with pliers before clamping it down. Also the ferrules inside the shifter body should be aluminum, not steel or nylon. These other kinds bind on the cable in the sharp bend coming out of the shifter. I did have that problem at first then SRAM announced this and we made the change.

Go the the sram website and under the tech videos, they have a video about installing the BB, and they say sometimes it will slide from side to side, and they say just attempt to install again and it should fix the problem.

Thanks for the reply. I am aware of the tech videos. They are very well done. Unfortunately the issue is with runout in the spider arms, not with side to side play of the crank spindle in the bb cups. There is no discernable side to side play of the crankarm spindle. In other words, the left crankarm is fully seated onto the end of the bb axel spindle so there is no side to side play.

Thanks for the reply. I am aware of the tech videos. They are very well done. Unfortunately the issue is with runout in the spider arms, not with side to side play of the crank spindle in the bb cups. There is no discernable side to side play of the crankarm spindle. In other words, the left crankarm is fully seated onto the end of the bb axel spindle so there is no side to side play.This is where your LBS would be able to remedy the problem had you bought it from a shop ar even an authorised dealer on line. Product rejected by QC very often finds its way out into the market via ebay sellers because they know that there is little comeback in the event of a problem. Case in point is the Ritchey forks on ebay a few months ago.

This is where your LBS would be able to remedy the problem had you bought it from a shop ar even an authorised dealer on line. Product rejected by QC very often finds its way out into the market via ebay sellers because they know that there is little comeback in the event of a problem. Case in point is the Ritchey forks on ebay a few months ago.

You are absolutely right about a authorized dealer. Prior to purchasing on ebay, I discused purchase of this gruop with the manager at a lbs (who works quite closely with several people at SRAM). This lbs manager went to his SRAM suppliers and could not get close to the ebay prices (several hundred dollars apart). Because of the quantity and depth of inventory available on ebay (his words) he spoke with the SRAM people he works and asked where was all this ebay inventory comming from. The lbs manager was told the following (which he relayed back to me when he also told me "if I were in your shoes I would get the group from ebay at that price").

According to SRAM, this is not a issue of QC rejected product getting into the market. Also according to SRAM, the large supply of Force and Rival group sets on ebay have come from several bicycle manufacturers (who sell complete road bikes with SRAM groups) selling excess groups that were purchased from SRAM for the 07 model year bicycles that were never used. According to SRAM, these manufacturers have sold their excess inventory to resellers that are selling these groups on ebay.

Recently I have spoken directly with a service tech at SRAM and asked about the wobbly chainring issue. I did not mention spider arm runout specifically when I asked the question. The tech told me they have had issues with spider arm runout with the early Force cranksets. He said there is nothing he can recommend but to replace the crank.

SRAM acknowledged they had a manufacturing issue with these cranks, not a issue of rejected QC making it to market. One could argue that their QC program should have identified this issue, but it didn't. These cranks went to market (in this case wrapped in OEM supplier packaging to a bicycle manufacturer) as first quality.

As I mentioned in my first post, I would not, and did not, ask SRAM (or any LBS) to warantee this crank due to the fact I purchased off ebay. As I aluded to in my first post, this would not be appropriate.

In any case, I was really wondering if anyone has come up with a technical solution to this issue short of replacing the crank, not if this is a warrantee issue or not.

It shouldn't matter where you buy the group for the warranty should it? I thought that if it is not installed by a certified wrench then the warranty is void. Would this mean that you cannot get warrantied through SRAM directly but have to go through the merchant you bought it from?

Would this mean that you cannot get warrantied through SRAM directly but have to go through the merchant you bought it from?

Yes, that is exactly the point. However the group was purchased from a unauthorized reseller on ebay. Based on the information I have, this reseller obtained a large quantity of groups from a overstocked bicycle manufacturer and is reselling them on ebay. Unlike a lbs, this reseller can't contact SRAM (or a SRAM distributor) and ask for a replacement since he has no relationship with SRAM. The only possibility I can see for a warantee claim is for the reseller to contact the bike manufacturer and for the bike manufacturer to agree to take the crank back and they return it to SRAM for the claim.

I can only guess what the odds are of that hapening... But I have made several attempts to contact the ebay reseller and await a reply.

My intent with posting has been to see if anyone else has found a technical solution to the issue short of discarding the crank and obtaining a replacement. I'm not trying to complain about lack of warantee on a ebay purchase.

Yes, that is exactly the point. However the group was purchased from a unauthorized reseller on ebay. Based on the information I have, this reseller obtained a large quantity of groups from a overstocked bicycle manufacturer and is reselling them on ebay. Unlike a lbs, this reseller can't contact SRAM (or a SRAM distributor) and ask for a replacement since he has no relationship with SRAM. The only possibility I can see for a warantee claim is for the reseller to contact the bike manufacturer and for the bike manufacturer to agree to take the crank back and they return it to SRAM for the claim.

I can only guess what the odds are of that hapening... But I have made several attempts to contact the ebay reseller and await a reply.

My intent with posting has been to see if anyone else has found a technical solution to the issue short of discarding the crank and obtaining a replacement. I'm not trying to complain about lack of warantee on a ebay purchase.If they are an operation that is capable of buying a manufacturer's excess stock, I presume that they are a business and not an individal. Certainly in the UK that would mean that they are responsible for rectifying the problem. How they in turn get compensated is not the customer's problem.
By bodging a solution, by maybe spacing the chainring out to make it run true, you could be placing undue stress on the spider's arm(s) and cause it to fail. Did you pay by pay pal or a credit card? If so you may be able to contest the charge?

Good luck!

Anyone who bought it on eBay from an unauthorized reseller just had karma quite rightly bite them in the ass. Too bad!

Anyone who bought it on eBay from an unauthorized reseller just had karma quite rightly bite them in the ass. Too bad!

I paid $242.50 for a pair of NIB Force shifters on eBay. That is much less than I could find anywhere else. Purchasing on Ebay is risky, but sometimes it's worth the danger to get a killer deal. Knock on wood, the shifters are working great (so far). It must be the good karma from giving a homeless guy a couple of bucks a few weeks ago in San Luis Obispo cancelling the bad eBay karma out :thumbsup:

I bought my complete group off of different sellers on ebay to build my new Tarmac Pro. I had the chainring wobble going on by at least 2mm if not more. The way I fixed it was by removing the chainrings (which were straight) and spinning the crank arms around and measuring the distance from the inside of the spider to the downtube with my micrometer. It was amazing how much difference there was between each arm. I then took a cresent wrench and tightened it down on each arm individually (with a rag to keep from scaring the carbon) and gently adjusted all of them to the same measurement. It is a really easy thing to do and you basically have no warranty on them anyway if you bought them off ebay. It worked great for me, just be careful not to get carried away and over stress the lip on the spider, the larger the head on the cresent wrench the better.

I then took a cresent wrench and tightened it down on each arm individually (with a rag to keep from scaring the carbon) and gently adjusted all of them to the same measurement.

A few questions if you don't mind...

Do I understand correctly you were able to "bend" each carbon spider arm slightly (as necessary) to remove the runout? Did you slip a cresent wrench over the tab that the rings mount to or did you tighten the wrench further down the spider arm (radially inward toward the bb axel)? When you applied a moment to the tab (or whereever you tighten the wrench), this allowed you to adjust the axial position of each arm? Did this actually bend the tab or the entire spider arm?

You mentioned not to overstress the "lip" on the spider. Is this the tab that the rings mount to?

Thanks for your post. Once I understand what you did, I can give it a shot after I know if I'll be getting a replacement or not. Karma is nipping but it hasn't bitten yet...

you will be able to see clearly where the wobble is coming from. When I am referring to the lip, I am talking about the tab where the chainring bolt goes through. I don't think that the whole spider arm bent, it was just the tab mainly. They bend very easily, so be careful not to bend any more than the needed difference to make them all equal distance to the downtube. As far as the crescent wrench goes, adjust the opening to match the thickness of the spider arm tab (lip) with a rag in between to keep from scarring the carbon. Once again, they bend a lot easier than you might think that they would so be careful.

you will be able to see clearly where the wobble is coming from. When I am referring to the lip, I am talking about the tab where the chainring bolt goes through. I don't think that the whole spider arm bent, it was just the tab mainly. They bend very easily, so be careful not to bend any more than the needed difference to make them all equal distance to the downtube. As far as the crescent wrench goes, adjust the opening to match the thickness of the spider arm tab (lip) with a rag in between to keep from scarring the carbon. Once again, they bend a lot easier than you might think that they would so be careful.

OK, that is what I thought. Makes sense. I will take your advice and tweek the tabs if I end up not resolving the issue with the seller.

Thanks for posting your experience. Greatly appreciated.

Cheers

I am a die hard Campy Racer. I just switched over to SRAM FORCE on my racing bike and immediatley noticed as I tested my bike that the SRAM FORCE Crankset moved 2mm from side to side as if the chainrings were bent. Upon further analysis, I took the chainrings off the crankarms to see if they were in deed bent. To my surprise they sat fully flush and flat on my workbench. From what I can tell, the problem might be with the Carbon Spindles themself. Either that, or my sprinting legs are bending the chainrings at 450 watts. Has anyone experienced this too?

YES!

"Happy" to hear I'm not the only one with this problem. It flexes when standing on the pedals and bends into the FD. Not happy for $400+ crank. Just got a DA crank off of ebay for $170 and it looks like a beast. Feels significantly lighter than the Force crank and looks much, much beefier. Plan on throwing it on Wed. (Supposedly the "best" crank out there) Looking forward to it!

Are these problems associated with both rival and force? Or force cranks only?

I am thinking of turning my old touring bike into a 10 speed, and I thought SRAM might be fun to try, because I've already used Shimano and Campagnolo before. I already have a SRAM ESP mountain rear derailleur on the bike, and I wanted to know if the Rival shifters are compatible with ESP. In all the ads, they say that rival uses a 1:1 actuation ratio, the same as ESP, but they never explicitly state that the two systems are compatible. Does anyone have some light to shine on this subject?