got some change in my pocket burnin a hole and would like to upgrade my wheelset. I have a Specialized Allez Comp w/ Aksiums now so any decent wheelset would be a substantial upgrade. I'm keeping the Aksiums for trainnig but want to do some racing htis year, Cat 5 that is. What is my best bet for wheels in this price range?

Go to Neuvation Cycling and get a pair carbon tubulars. They have the C48 on clearance sale for an amazing price. The other option is to get somthing used on ebay.

Good Luck.

So much to choose from ma man.....

How deep do you want to go? 30mm? 40mm? or more?

You can go custom, or buy something like Eurus or K's. if you don't want too deep.

There is no way I can get custom wheels here so I bought Eurus. However, if I had a choice, I would've gone custom without a doubt. I don't understand why people don't go custom when there is so many builders in America. Also you can get two wheelsets for the price of one pre-build wheelset.

This is just my thought so YMMV.

But look at these picks......it's amazing what custom builders can do
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80860&stc=1&d=1172993638
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80861&stc=1&d=1172993638
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80862&stc=1&d=1172993638

WHOA love the pink stuff! the deeper the better (not c()de). i wouldnt be against a custom set i'm just totally niave to the whole scene. I love the Ksyrium ES w/ the one red spoke gimic and might go that route if i cant find a custom job that i like.

WHOA love the pink stuff! the deeper the better (not c()de). i wouldnt be against a custom set i'm just totally niave to the whole scene. I love the Ksyrium ES w/ the one red spoke gimic and might go that route if i cant find a custom job that i like.

If you want a wheel that is light and durable then the ES's are a nice choise or the bontrager race x lites.

These two wheels are great wheels to train and race on, however if your wanting an all out tubular deep dish race wheel then thats whole different bag of worms. In my own opinion I'd purchase a light weight set for racing/training such as the Mavic ES's and then race your ass off for your first season. Then see how it goes and maybe look into some tublars for next season.

Let us know what you end up with.

So much to choose from ma man.....

How deep do you want to go? 30mm? 40mm? or more?

You can go custom, or buy something like Eurus or K's. if you don't want too deep.

There is no way I can get custom wheels here so I bought Eurus. However, if I had a choice, I would've gone custom without a doubt. I don't understand why people don't go custom when there is so many builders in America. Also you can get two wheelsets for the price of one pre-build wheelset.

This is just my thought so YMMV.

But look at these picks......it's amazing what custom builders can do
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80860&stc=1&d=1172993638
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80861&stc=1&d=1172993638
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80862&stc=1&d=1172993638

Yo Linus how much does that pink custom set weigh? I like it, it's out of the ordinary

Yo Linus how much does that pink custom set weigh? I like it, it's out of the ordinary
Unfortunately, its not mine. Ligero just showed this pics on the other thread. I'm thinking about baby blue.....and I'm not joking:D . I might head back to Canada soon because my business is going south.:mad2: Hey....at least I can get what I want when I go back home. Yes, I'm an optimist:)

Shimano Dura Ace 7801-SL

+1

Go tubeless.

i wouldnt be against a custom set i'm just totally niave to the whole scene.

Just give someone like Troy Watson at Ligero Wheelworks a call. I assume he'd be happy to educate you on handbuilts and build you high quality, servicable wheels--possible for less than $1,000--that more than meet your needs.

I worked with Troy this winter to get a pair of all-purpose wheels. I, too, had a pair of Aksiums and found them to be too stiff and heavy for someone my size and weight. When I contacted Troy, I was certainly no expert on custom, and what I did know I picked up largely from this forum. He made the process really easy.

I think you generally get a lot more bang for your buck with custom. I would have paid twice as much for comparable factory wheels. Plus, you get to enjoy the cache of having custom wheels.....

Yo Linus how much does that pink custom set weigh? I like it, it's out of the ordinary

That pair weighs right at 1500g for the pair. The woman who bought those rode them from New York to Austin Texas on them and know commutes to school everyday on them.

You have so many choices in that price rang from pre-builts to handbuilts by several builders that are reccomended here or on the net.

First off ask yourself if you want pre-built or hand builts.
Now what section of the rims, then weight.

You can can get almost any wheels except maybe full crabon clinchers/tubulars at the price rage. Unless you get some direct manufactures from Taiwan. These can be hit or miss though or closeouts on eBay.

Several builders here or I can help you get what you need/want.

Again you have many choices and don't have too spend $1000 to get GREAT wheels. Any of us are happy to provide pics if you like.

These are about 1325g and under $700

http://light-bikes.com/BikePhotos/web_pics/m5_20mm.jpg

http://light-bikes.com/BikePhotos/web_pics/prima_20mm.jpg

These are about 1325g and under $700

http://light-bikes.com/BikePhotos/web_pics/m5_20mm.jpg

http://light-bikes.com/BikePhotos/web_pics/prima_20mm.jpg

tell me more, I really like the sound of that!

tell me more, I really like the sound of that!
The rims are 20m Niobium rims.
The front hub is a M5 and the rear is a Primavera 205
Spokes are Sapim CX-Ray with internal aluminum nipples.
Pillar Ti spokes are an option. This paticular set that we make is exclusive to me.

Note: A very similar set-up can be made by one using a differnt rear hub. The rear is a Private lable hub that is in the 205g range.

I sell these wheels. If you want for info or pricing contact me via PM, e-mail or my site.

ill second getting a set of deep dish carbon tubulars - neuvation, williams wheels, or used zipps, ritchey, easton, corima, etc. off ebay. also i think ligero or some of the other custom builders deal with deep rims as well.

the "lower end" of those would be ~ 1500g. The aero benefits would really outwiegh the weight penalty. 50mm rim vs a 20mm rim.

the "higher end" would be just as light.

its just a matter of if you want the "best" or if you want to make sacrifices in aerodynamics, which many seem to make. you would also have to deal with tubulars unless you went with clinchers, but you asked about "the best" and tubulars have weight savings.

ill second getting a set of deep dish carbon tubulars -
the "lower end" of those would be ~ 1500g. The aero benefits would really outwiegh the weight penalty. 50mm rim vs a 20mm rim.
But not everyone wants/needs deep carbon rims. I will eventually try some down the road, but with big crosswinds I have around here, those 50mm deep rims are not fun. This time of year were most people ride where I live, you are always rding with the cross winds the whole way down the most popular route. This can make some skittish when riding.

Around here very, very few use anything higher than 38mm-44mm(?) including Tri guys that I have seen.

Rreally aero wheels will offset the little extra weight gain.

First of all, I think Aksiums are a "decent" wheelset, as far as it goes, and Cat 5's feeling the need / want for Fancy Wheels means that wheel companies' marketing divisions are working pretty well.

I think I'd run what ya brung. If you are doing more than a couple races a spare wheelset would be a good idea so you can have training tires and race tires, a pit, etc.

I'm not going to be part of the "32 and 3 cross or bust!," crowd, but there'd be nothing wrong with that. There would be nothing wrong with K elites / Zondas / etc, too -- a little more bling, a little more money.

If you're under 175 pounds and have a decent spin, go with American Classic Mag 300's or Sprint 350's, built with Sapim X-Ray spokes and ceramic bearings. If you're a bit heavier and hard on your equipment, go with American Classic 420's. In my experience, all these all are very light, reliable wheelsets and are well within your budget.

If you're under 175 pounds and have a decent spin, go with American Classic ... experience, all these all are very light, reliable wheelsets and are well within your budget.

I've seen too many Amclassic hubs a splode. They seem like they say every year that they are better...

But not everyone wants/needs deep carbon rims. I will eventually try some down the road, but with big crosswinds I have around here, those 50mm deep rims are not fun. This time of year were most people ride where I live, you are always rding with the cross winds the whole way down the most popular route. This can make some skittish when riding.

Around here very, very few use anything higher than 38mm-44mm(?) including Tri guys that I have seen.

Rreally aero wheels will offset the little extra weight gain.

all true.

however he asked for the best wheels he could get for his money, and as you said, really aero wheels will offset the little extra weight gain. I think we would both agree that the best wheels he could get for his money would be really deep carbon wheels.

wether he needs them or not is a totally different topic (id say he, and most of us don't). if he lives in a super windy area, thats something else to consider. but thats answering questions the op didnt ask. what the op asked is what would be the best wheels he could get for his $$, and as you said, really aero wheels wil offset the little extra weight gain.

for the record, i vote race what you brung. when the op gets some more experience, and when some nicer hoops *may* make a slight difference in his/her results, he/she should upgrade.

Nimble Flys. www.nimble.net

The Shimano 7801-SLs were mentioned earlier. Maybe the bling factor is not there (except for the Scandium). They are not the lightest at 1500 gms. But what's impressive is Shimano makes an ATB version of this wheelset. Guess what??? They look and weigh IDENTICAL! So for durability, no reason to look elsewhere.

The Shimano 7801-SLs were mentioned earlier. Maybe the bling factor is not there (except for the Scandium). They are not the lightest at 1500 gms. But what's impressive is Shimano makes an ATB version of this wheelset. Guess what??? They look and weigh IDENTICAL! So for durability, no reason to look elsewhere.

The road and mtb rims are not identical. The mtb rims are wider and also smaller diameter so if they were identical the mtb rims should weigh less but they don't. So just because they rim look similar does not mean that they are the same and that they will be equally as durable.

Please do not take this post as a bash on either Shimano or you, I just wanted to point out that they are not the same. I think what Shimano has done to make that scandium rim is impressive.

If you are going to start racing cat 5 do not spend $1k on a new wheelset for racing. It will be a decision you will regret when someone cuts you off and a der. goes into your front wheel, or someone slides out in a corner and your wheel gets taco-ed. Save your money, or buy stuff that isn't first in line for destruction in an inevitable crash. Oh, and by all means avoid American Classic, they are not a good option unless you are really light or pretend to race. If you want some nicer race wheels, spend like ~$500 on a sturdy, repairable set- and the other ~$500 for new chains/team gear/tires/repairing your bike etc. If you are really serious about racing then get a powertap with an open pro rim.

If you are going to start racing cat 5 do not spend $1k on a new wheelset for racing. It will be a decision you will regret when someone cuts you off and a der. goes into your front wheel, or someone slides out in a corner and your wheel gets taco-ed. Save your money, or buy stuff that isn't first in line for destruction in an inevitable crash. Oh, and by all means avoid American Classic, they are not a good option unless you are really light or pretend to race. If you want some nicer race wheels, spend like ~$500 on a sturdy, repairable set- and the other ~$500 for new chains/team gear/tires/repairing your bike etc. If you are really serious about racing then get a powertap with an open pro rim.

yeah i think i'm gonna ride what i brought this season so i dont cry when i crash my wheelset that i couldnt afford in the first place. especially since the first race i'm entering is called the "Webster Roubiax" since it has a section of hardpacked dirt! I still want to see if I can feel the difference of a light tubular set over my heavy clinchers. maybe i'll try someone elses setup.