So my current debate is whether to replace my failing right Dura Ace STI shifter/brake lever (9 speed) at about $185 or go with Dura Ace Bar end shifters and new brake levers at about $100 total. Over the course of a couple of bikes, this is the second Dura Ace STI shifter to go out on me, but I got the first one replaced under warranty. This is on a cyclocross bike that I use for all types of riding -- road, dirt road, and a bit of trail riding. I use it for the local road race (with a change of wheels), but mostly I use it for long rides on gravel, dirt and two-track roads across the plains and into the mountains. I really like the shifting at the brake levers, but if they're particularly fragile to a bit of dust and the rattle of unpaved roads perhaps it's time to learn to love bar end shifting. I looked through the archives and read some of the stuff about moving to bar end shifters, but I guess I'm more interested in the durability of STI levers using them the way I do. Any advice?

Thanks!

I am one of the luddites... 8spd barcons, etc....
It's up to you really, riding style & how much you can afford if you keep on wrecking brifters.
I have wrecked on my bar-cons more times than I care to think of... both on & off-road, during races, just regular stuff, winter commuting, etc. & I am happy to say that my barcons survived every hit on them. They are really scratched up badly but still work.

If you want to maintain STI, but are worried about consistently replacing them, why not go a level or two down? Ultegra? 105? I don't think you'd see a noticeable difference in performance.

I had a problem with my shifters after a few years. People on this sight recommended pulling in the lever and blasting with WD-40. It really helped my shifters. Having said this, my friend could not get this to work for him. Maybe a good try before switching out the shifter. Best of luck...

Konaken

Any advice?

Ebay your cassette, font and rear mechs and the working STI. Buy SRAM. Then when the shifter has a problem, rebuild it.

Ditto the SRAM. alternatively go Campy, but that will require a gruppo switch (freewheel, bb, et al). For SRAM you can buy Rival shifters and rear mech only if you run a single front ring. Not a costly upgrade and rebuildable.

I've had similar problems w/ Ultegra, let me guess, the small release lever moves the large lever w/ it when you try to shift? You can actually still shift by snagging the big lever with your middle and indexfingesr and pushing the small one with your ring finger...it's quite the skill. Dirty gears are most likely to blame and you should be able to get it working again with a good soak and blowout from a compressor...or two or three.... If not and you are planning to toss it, you should be able to take the lever/cover off from the front and clean it that way. Don't take the pin out of the housing to soak it, I tried that once and the pin took half of the housing with it. anyway you look at it is a real pain. The SRAM alternative sounds great and the single lever is sooo much easier for cross. If you are accostomed to STI, as it sounds, you may have a hard time with the barend shifters, keep in mind that you have to take one hand off to shift. If you are going to downgrade, try 105, I have kept mine on my bike even though I've had friends give me their slightly used Ultegra's upon upgrading to DA on their road bikes. The reason is because I've never had a problem, mechanically, with my 105's and have replaced at least 3 Ultegra's in very short order.

but not down (return spring)

typical

I picked up a set of almost new Dura Ace 9spd sti's for $100. Have used and abused them every way I know how and never a problem. Friends of mine use Ultegra as they think it's more durable. Either way you can probably pick up a nice set of used sti levers cheap locally if you look hard enough. There's always some rich guy selling off his prisitine dura ace stuff to buy the latest SRAM or whatever. Watch craiglslist.

but not down (return spring)

typical

Yup, it's a downshift thing -- repeated pushes on smaller lever to get downshifting to go, facilitated by a wiggling motion as I push. I've been through the soak it with WD40 routine with out success. My previous experience was that it will become progressively recalcitrant...

Moving to another manufacturer (SRAM or Campy) at this point is probably more trouble and money than replacing the shifter -- three wheelsets, wife and daughter's bikes are all tied up in Shimano 9 speed. The advantages to staying within this genre are clear. I've been following some STI shifters on ebay and I'm not sure it makes sense to pay those prices -- I'll start paying attention to Craig's list for awhile.

I do think I'll want to stay with STI, but if I could start fresh it would surely be with SRAM or Campy. However, I am proud to say that my MTB is completely Shimano free!

Moving to another manufacturer (SRAM or Campy) at this point is probably more trouble and money than replacing the shifter -- three wheelsets, wife and daughter's bikes are all tied up in Shimano 9 speed.

You don't have to worry about the wheels if you go SRAM.

You don't have to worry about the wheels if you go SRAM.

Just so I get this straight -- getting a SRAM shifter and rear mechanism will deal with 9 speed Shimano cassettes? Would the SRAM doubletap front shift a Shimano front mechanism? I was under the impression (perhaps erroneously) that SRAM shifters were 10 speed...

Just so I get this straight -- getting a SRAM shifter and rear mechanism will deal with 9 speed Shimano cassettes? Would the SRAM doubletap front shift a Shimano front mechanism? I was under the impression (perhaps erroneously) that SRAM shifters were 10 speed...
No - he said _wheels_ - 10 speed cassettes will fit on 9 speed hubs (and wheels).

IIRC, both the front and rear SRAM ders use a different actuation ratio - if you went sram, you'd have to get a 10-speed cassette and chain, f+r ders, and the shifters. probably near $400...

I've used a DA 9 speed bar-end with Campy Record levers for a few years and prefer it over sti. Not much cheaper with the carbon levers but they don't get cold and never need rebuilding. DA barends are indestructible. 1x9

I've seen a couple of posts recently regarding mucked up STI levers. I have the same problem with my Ultegras. I cleaned them out with wd40 and kersoene, dried them with compressed air, then shot them with silicone spray lube. They worked great... Now, less than 100 mi later, they're starting to stick again.

No mud. No crashes. Just lots of jarring and a little dust. Are STI really this delicate off road? My road bike has gone years without zero maintenance.

I've seen a couple of posts recently regarding mucked up STI levers. I have the same problem with my Ultegras. I cleaned them out with wd40 and kersoene, dried them with compressed air, then shot them with silicone spray lube. They worked great... Now, less than 100 mi later, they're starting to stick again.

No mud. No crashes. Just lots of jarring and a little dust. Are STI really this delicate off road? My road bike has gone years without zero maintenance.


yeah, the cleanout is generally a temp fix... will keeping 'em working for awhile, just before the die for good

Yup, it's a downshift thing -- repeated pushes on smaller lever to get downshifting to go, facilitated by a wiggling motion as I push. I've been through the soak it with WD40 routine with out success. My previous experience was that it will become progressively recalcitrant...
!

go on ebay. see how many left side STI's are for sale (as you have to buy a pair to replace the right side) and know you are not alone. 180 bucks, hopefully you get 60 back for the left STI all to replace a 2 cent part

and find the article showing how to make 10 speed Ergo work with Shimano 9

and find the article showing how to make 10 speed Ergo work with Shimano 9

Don't you just have to buy a Jtek?

About $40 or so.