I have Avid Shorty 4s on my CX bike, most likely with basic stock pads. Every time I use them I feel like yelling "NO BRAKES!" The bike is a 2003 Cannondale XR800 (no head shock, no disc). They do not squeal, at least that I have noticed (this thing only has been ridden on the grass and road, not raced yet).

What are some good cantilever brakes??? Nothing super fancy, this one will be raced... hard, and of course money is tight. But I still want to stop..

I have Avid Shorty 4s on my CX bike, most likely with basic stock pads. Every time I use them I feel like yelling "NO BRAKES!" The bike is a 2003 Cannondale XR800 (no head shock, no disc). They do not squeal, at least that I have noticed (this thing only has been ridden on the grass and road, not raced yet).

What are some good cantilever brakes??? Nothing super fancy, this one will be raced... hard, and of course money is tight. But I still want to stop..

Search some of the older threads and you'll find good discussions of various cantis.

But, for convenience's sake, here goes:
Spooky - $100/pair no pads from speedgoat - powerful and light
Empella - $100/pair w/ pads from cyclocrossworld.com - pretty similar
Paul's - $160/ pair w/ pads from any LBS - super chi-chi
New Shimano cantis - $70 pair w/ pads from any LBS - heard good things

Those are the main contenders.

I have Avid Shorty 4s on my CX bike, most likely with basic stock pads..... But I still want to stop..


replace the pads and tune them up make sure that your toe in is correct and that your pull is to your liking. They will stop. I have them and they will out break the ability for my front tires to grip or will flip me on my azz.
:o

I'm w/ aircrook. I have some bottom line Alivio's on my IF and they were crap when I got them. I changed the no-name pads to the Kool Stop Salmon pads. Now that's a brake pad. Try some Kool Stops before changing out the brakes. I was about to go w/ Spooky's (probably will someday) but then I got the new pads. I'll wait till next season...

Ok, is their a guide on-line on how to get a good adjustment on canti's of the Shorty 4s?

Ok, is their a guide on-line on how to get a good adjustment on canti's of the Shorty 4s?

If your keeping the avids I'd toe them in or out until the squeak goes away and shorten the straddle cable if it's on the long side. if I remember my shorty4's had a limited selection of replacement pads when I was in the market. someone else on the board (arctichawk maybe?) has them and has replaced the pads successfully with something better, he could no doubt offer better advice. if you decide to replace the brakes altogether, just look on ebay for awhile and find something you can throw some salmon koolstop or mathauser pads on and youll have brakes again.

There is no squeak; the problem is low stopping power. I am after adjustments for better stopping power.

There is no squeak; the problem is low stopping power. I am after adjustments for better stopping power.

I don't recall mine as having been poor as far as power, just noisy. try shortening the straddle cable as much as possible, that should give you plenty of power but a bit less modulation.

There is no squeak; the problem is low stopping power. I am after adjustments for better stopping power.

then make sure that both sides are even tension and spring out evenly. Then move the pads so that the front of the pad is just a little closer to the rim than the back... they will stop you.. I am beting that whatever compound you have is getting oxidized (or were not that good in the first place) and making it hard and useless for creating friction.

I have had Avids, Shimanos, Vs with a "Travel Agent" and mini Vs. Then I bought the Pauls (with the addition of Salmon pads). They are a breeze to set up. You can throw all of the others away after you go to Paul's.

All cantis can be made to stop decently with the right setup and the right pads. Heck, I have Mafacs and they stop me. That said, it's hard to beat Shimanos for the money.

It may be possible for all brakes to work well but in my opinion, the Paul brakes are much easier to set up than most.

I am after adjustments right now... Any guides online? Cantis 101? Any hits? Any advice?

I fix computers for a living not bikes... :). I just race them :).

I am after adjustments right now... Any guides online? Cantis 101? Any hits? Any advice?

I fix computers for a living not bikes... :). I just race them :).

post a pic of your brakes as there set up now, perhaps that will get you some advice specific to your set up. you could also check <a href="http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/howfix_cant.shtml">park tools site</a> for a useful bit of info on the subect.

Ok, I will post some pictures tonight when I get home...

If I recall correctly, there is a pretty comprehensive canti brake setup how-to on sheldonbrown.com.

Ah. Here it is:

http://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-adjustment.html

The shop is getting me JAG Cyclone Pro Xtreme pads for the Shorty 4s.

How do I set toe? The other CX races on Sunday said to toe them in... but... what does that mean?

The shop is getting me JAG Cyclone Pro Xtreme pads for the Shorty 4s.

How do I set toe? The other CX races on Sunday said to toe them in... but... what does that mean?

With threaded post pads I:

1) Unhook the straddle

2) Unspring the arms if possible

3) Loosen the post until it moves freely

4) Pull a dime out of my pocket and slip it under the very rearward portion of the pad between it and the rim.

5) Squeeze pad to rim

6) Align pad appropriately

7) Tighten

Repeat for each pad.

Sometimes if I don't have a dime handy, I'll use the backing cardboard from the brake pad packaging.

Ok, great! So you are pointing the front of the pads in towards the rim. THAT is what I was wondering. This is one of those things folks do not tell you.

"toe them in"

toe: forward part of the foot (or brake pad)
in: towards the inside

Also, like someone said a while ago, you need to clean the silver / black crap off your rims and pads after riding in the rain, mud and fuel that is on the roads / trails. The oxidized aluminium and road grime mix and dry to form a nice coating that will prevent even good brakes from working. Changing the toe in should not make a huge difference in stopping power, clean them up well and make sure the whole pad is hitting the rim, not half on half off or rubbing the tire and make sure that the lever is closing the brakes all the way up, if not shorten up either the brake cable or the straddle cable or move the pads closer to the rim. I think the best setup is when you can stop ok, but have to pull the lever a lot. I like this because i want the pads far from the rim to clear mud and keep away from the rim if my wheel gets knocked out of line. In a dry part of the country, you could run a more reasonable setup. Those brakes of yours are fine for stopping power, maybe try new pads if needed.