I'm building a Power-tap hub with standard 24 hole spacing into a Bontrager rim with paired spoke drilling. How would the paired spoke hole pattern in the rim vs. the standard drilling of the hub affect spoke length and build quality?

I'm building a Power-tap hub with standard 24 hole spacing into a Bontrager rim with paired spoke drilling. How would the paired spoke hole pattern in the rim vs. the standard drilling of the hub affect spoke length and build quality?

I can't answer your question exactly, but my instinct is to say...adversely. There are plenty of good (normal) 24h rims out there; if you can spring for a PT-SL, you can come up with another $50 for a DT Swiss rim, no?

I'm building a Power-tap hub with standard 24 hole spacing into a Bontrager rim with paired spoke drilling. How would the paired spoke hole pattern in the rim vs. the standard drilling of the hub affect spoke length and build quality?

I don't think it would be recommended to build a PowerTap hub with a rim with paired spoke drilling. Because the hub flanges are drilled for standard lacing and the rim for paired lacing, the leading and trailing spokes will be at non-symmetric angles at both hub and rim.. This will not only require different lengths for leading and trailing spokes, but will also result in a torque differential between the flanges (i.e, the flanges will be twisted in opposite directions). Hubs have actually been known to be permanently distorted due to this twisting torque. I'm not sure of the internals of the PT hub, but any distortions of the hub due to the torque differential might interfere with its ability to measure torque as well.

On option to building a paired spoke rim on a standard hub is to build it half radial. This will result in symmetrical leading/trailing spokes on the crossed side, and the small spoke angles on the radial side will generate very little twisting torque. However, PT hubs are not warrantied for radial lacing. The PT hub is an awefully expensive hub to use with a voided warrany, and a very large number of PT hubs that I seen have had to have warranty repairs (the failure rate of PT hubs is a whole other subject).

There are a great number of very good 24 hole rims with standard drilling that could be used instead, and many of them aren't too expensive. For example, the Velocity Deep V is a very heavy duty and reliable option. The Odds and Endos Niobiom 30 is just as deep as the Deep V, but lighter, and might be a better option for all-around use. If you look around, you'll find a number of other very viable options as well.

I want to use the Bonterager rim for sponsorship reasons. It's not 100% required but might earn me some brownie points. I thought about (having my engineer stepfather) drill some extra holes in the hub to fit the paired spoke design...or maybe I'll just get a Velocity rim.

Thanks for your help.

I thought about (having my engineer stepfather) drill some extra holes in the hub to fit the paired spoke design...

I would NOT do that. I would consider having him drill some holes in the free, sponsor-provided rim, maybe, but not in a $1000 hub flange.

I want to use the Bonterager rim for sponsorship reasons. It's not 100% required but might earn me some brownie points.

Just a thought but ...

Could you get some Bontrager wheel decals, and put them on another rim? This seems to be a common occurance in the sponsored racing world.

Just a thought but ...

Could you get some Bontrager wheel decals, and put them on another rim? This seems to be a common occurance in the sponsored racing world.

That's looking more like what'll happen. Don't think I'll even put Bontrager stickers on, just take the others off.