A Martec RI02 carbon frame and fork at chucksbikes for $350. http://www.chucksbikes.com/store/indexfr065.htm is the link, I can't seem to get my computer to let me upload the image. It's the same frame as a kuota korsa, scattante CFR, epx 303, etc. except in gloss black and carbon with no decals. I've been riding steel bikes for several years and I've always been interested in carbon because I think deep down I'm a bit of a weightweenie, but thus far the cost has really prevented me from giving it a go. I'm thinking this might be a really good way to try it out without much investment. With Ultegra 10 coming soon and prices on 9spd dropping I'm thinking about building up this frame as a carbon experiment. Opinions?? Thanks. TC

A Martec RI02 carbon frame and fork at chucksbikes for $350. http://www.chucksbikes.com/store/indexfr065.htm is the link, I can't seem to get my computer to let me upload the image. It's the same frame as a kuota korsa, scattante CFR, epx 303, etc. except in gloss black and carbon with no decals. I've been riding steel bikes for several years and I've always been interested in carbon because I think deep down I'm a bit of a weightweenie, but thus far the cost has really prevented me from giving it a go. I'm thinking this might be a really good way to try it out without much investment. With Ultegra 10 coming soon and prices on 9spd dropping I'm thinking about building up this frame as a carbon experiment. Opinions?? Thanks. TC

I recently read a glowing review of the Kuota Khan. I assume the Korsa isn't too shabby either. I'd rather have nude carbon, but I like the idea of no decals. Either way, at $350, it's hard to go wrong. Let us know how it goes.

if i was to buy a carbon frame bike, i'd choose Trek or a similarly well established company that offers life time warrenty.
steel is the best value, unless you're a semi-pro/cat 1-2 winning racer...then perhaps an under 3# carbon frame (or a compact 2# ti.frame) maybe useful

I wouldn't really call this an "economy" frame. Sure it's a good deal at $350, but I don't think that alone makes it "economical". It's the same frame as is on the Scattante CFR and the same frame as the Kuota Korsa which retails for $1800 frame+fork. Check out Martec, they've been making carbon bike components for 20+ years now, I would think they'd know what they're doing. You might be surprised to know how many brand-name carbon components actually came out of Martec's factories. True it is lacking in a warranty but I could buy 3 or 4 of these frames for the price of a 5200.

Actually I was sort of trolling when I made this thread, I have already ordered the frame and actually already recieved it, but it was damaged in shipping, so now a replacement is on the way. I was just wanting to know if I'd gotten a good deal or just see what some other riders thought of it, if it was worth the time of getting it replaced or just refunded. The upper integrated bearing cup had been bent in shipping, but other than that the frame looked very very nice. The finish was immaculate and the internal cable routing was a nice touch I thought. It was also fairly light, althought not as light as advertised, 3.5 lbs instead of 3.0 for a size 62cm, on my questionably accurate digital fishing scale.

on Martec... I did a little while ago seeing the same frame on Chuck's site. There is a site where some Brits and Canadian riders talking about Martec in general. I think the gist of what they are saying is yes, Martec is the mfg of all kinds of carbon stuff for many brands but they aren't the quality house and their quality can be totally inconsistant...

Silly question about this frame...

I noticed that the steering tube is REALLY REALLY sticking up. When you buy a frame/fork like this, does it come like that, forcing you to cut down the steering tube yourself? I'm interested in building up a bike for the fun of it, but there's some things, like cutting metal, that I wouldn't be comfortable doing.

Any thoughts?

The frame pictured on chucksbikes website is a quite small, and all frames regardless of size come with a stock length fork steerer tube. That was one of the manufacturing benefits of threadless, one size fork for all frames that can easily be cut down rather than stocking many different threaded steerers or having to thread a steerer tube. Depending on the size of frame you use and how many spacers you need you might get lucky and not have to cut the fork. I noticed on my 62cm that I probably won't have to cut the fork, or just barely. If you do require having your fork cut you could have your LBS do it for you for not much $$ if you don't feel comfortable with it. It's not really that hard if you know how to use a hacksaw and take your time and don't rush the job. I'd suggest taking a serious look at this frame if you're wanting to build something up, it's a great deal and Chuck has been great to deal with through my damaged frame replacement and all that entails, very prompt on returning emails too. :)

Silly question about this frame...

I noticed that the steering tube is REALLY REALLY sticking up. When you buy a frame/fork like this, does it come like that, forcing you to cut down the steering tube yourself? I'm interested in building up a bike for the fun of it, but there's some things, like cutting metal, that I wouldn't be comfortable doing.

Any thoughts?

unless you buy a used frame/fork or such.... Having the full length of steerer is a good thing in a new fork. If you are really not comfortable cutting then let LBS do the fork/ headset installation plus bottom bracket...U probably should let them do the Headset and bottom bracket installation anyway.

But you are missing out the liberating fun of building if you are afraid of cutting a steerer tube. Just get a Park steerer tube cutting clamp thingy and I believe, 44 teeth (or was it 22 teeth...I'll have to check) hacksaw blade and (after you carefully figure out how everything will be assembled on the steerer and what the total measurement will be) start cutting the least amount possible (meaning position the stem high) just to see and figure out how it will all fit together... then cut some more (meaning a spacer or two length) until you get comfortable to cut down to where you want your stem to be which you should leave fairly high at this point. It's not necessary to cut the steerer tube to the right length to position the stem as low as you want anyway... you can leave some spacer (and steerer tube) on the top of stem until you are sure before you cut to right length later.

Don't take offense but if helps to 'have yer head outer yer a$&' :p which isn't so easy sometimes and you'll understand exactly what that means if you ever cut the steerer too short. Measure as many times as you need to be sure how much you need to cut off!