I have a Dura Ace 2x9 speed setup with at least 15,000 miles on it. The right shifter not takes a lot of effort to shift into the smaller cogs (inner shift lever). Basically, it does not release to the lower gears until the inner lever is about 80-90% pushed in. On my other bike with newer shifters, the release happens at about 20% into the stroke.

In the past, with my beater bikes, I've fixed this problem by shooting lots of silicone spray into the assembly with the bike turned upside down, working the shifter at the same time. So far, this has worked, even though the shifting is a bit gritty at first. I'm guessing this frees up the hardened grease.

Are there any other solutions out there? I once tried to take an STI shifter apart...will never try that again.

You want to loosen up the hardened grease and flush out the crap, as you said. Tri-Flow seems the best at that.

PH

...Are there any other solutions out there?...

Killed a couple pairs of right shifters on my tandem. You knew it was slowly dying and it always seemed to fail to shift at the most inopportune times like in the middle of a rolling century.

Throwing this out as an option, hopefully the thread wont drift into a C vs S debate. I was tired of buying throw away parts and put Campy 10 speed shifters on the tandem and used a JTek converter to allow them to shift my 9 speed Shimano drive train. I have heard you can do this without using the JTek too. Consider this option if you cant get it working and have trouble finding the older DA 9 speed shifters. You can search for more details or post if you have more questions on mixing and matching.

Try replacing your shift cables and housing. The newest Dura Ace cable/housing set has special lube that supposedly decreases friction by 10%. The cables and housing can get kinked, corroded, or contaminated with grime. The cable groove under the bottom bracket can get gritty too. Don't go overboard on the shifter lube as it could attract more grit.

Try replacing your shift cables and housing. The newest Dura Ace cable/housing set has special lube that supposedly decreases friction by 10%. The cables and housing can get kinked, corroded, or contaminated with grime. The cable groove under the bottom bracket can get gritty too. Don't go overboard on the shifter lube as it could attract more grit.

+1
15,000 miles isn't much for D-A shifters. I would hose them out with WD40 and replace the shift cables AND cable housings. The short housing found just in front of the rear derailleur when dirty or corroded is often the cause of shifting woes.

+1
15,000 miles isn't much for D-A shifters. I would hose them out with WD40 and replace the shift cables AND cable housings. The short housing found just in front of the rear derailleur when dirty or corroded is often the cause of shifting woes.

Try using Brake Cleaner on the lever mechanisim. Brake cleaner is available at decent auto parts stores, it comes in a spray can and it a greaseless solvent. Try to find access to compressed air, then spray in the brake cleaner and blow it out, repeat. Amazing how much black goo you will get from your shifter mechanisim. I have some levers with almost 30k miles that I almost tossed out before I got the brake cleaner into them..they now shift perfectly on a new frame.

Also, the cable housing at the rear derailuer is often the cause of shifting problems. As it gets used, the cable wears a groove inside the housing. You can adjust everything just right, but as your derailuer swings and the curve of that housing changes, the inside cable comes in and out of the groove it has worn, causing the shift tension to vary and messes up the shifting...I've begun to change that housing every few thousand miles..
Don Hanson

Try using Brake Cleaner on the lever mechanisim. Brake cleaner is available at decent auto parts stores, it comes in a spray can and it a greaseless solvent. Try to find access to compressed air, then spray in the brake cleaner and blow it out, repeat. Amazing how much black goo you will get from your shifter mechanisim. I have some levers with almost 30k miles that I almost tossed out before I got the brake cleaner into them..they now shift perfectly on a new frame.

Also, the cable housing at the rear derailuer is often the cause of shifting problems. As it gets used, the cable wears a groove inside the housing. You can adjust everything just right, but as your derailuer swings and the curve of that housing changes, the inside cable comes in and out of the groove it has worn, causing the shift tension to vary and messes up the shifting...I've begun to change that housing every few thousand miles..
Don Hanson


I swapped the parts over to the current frame a few months ago and put in new cables/housing and things started out fine. But the housing can be trimmed by about an inch or two by the hoods. I was also using an Avid Rollamajig when it was on the other bike. Maybe I'll go back to the rollamajig and shorten the housing before I do anything drastic.

Is there a concern that using too much brake cleaner will flush out too much of the grease? Should I follow this up with some silicone spray?

I just use some light oil in my shifters. Tri-Flo is the Boutique brand everyone likes, but I get quarts of air tool oil at Home Despot or my local hardware...about 100 times more economical than Tri Flo...Another good lube is called Dri-Slide, but that is difficult find in stores and it needs to be used more frequently than regular light oil...
Don Hanson

I just use some light oil in my shifters. Tri-Flo is the Boutique brand everyone likes, but I get quarts of air tool oil at Home Despot or my local hardware...about 100 times more economical than Tri Flo...Another good lube is called Dri-Slide, but that is difficult find in stores and it needs to be used more frequently than regular light oil...
Don Hanson

I'm speculating somewhat (I'm a Campy man, mostly), but I'd think the shifters would use grease, not oil. Using brake cleaner or wd40 or triflow to clean out makes sense, but is there some way to spray some type of lithium grease or such up in there after the cleaner/solvent gets the gunk out?

I'm speculating somewhat (I'm a Campy man, mostly), but I'd think the shifters would use grease, not oil. Using brake cleaner or wd40 or triflow to clean out makes sense, but is there some way to spray some type of lithium grease or such up in there after the cleaner/solvent gets the gunk out?

I've seen some "lithium grease" spray lubricant at OSH, but I don't know how well it works. I saw something like this

http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=37

I was going to try it after I resurected a right ultegra 9 shifter with Tri-flow, but I just dribble in a little tri-flow into the shifter every once in a while now. The shifter feels has a lighter touch with the lube than the grease.

By the way, I tried WD-40, and it didn't work, then I tried Tri-flow and it didn't work either to unstick the shifter at first. I then let the shifter sit for months before I took another look it. when I picked it up, it was working fine. I've been using it on my 2nd bike since. Don't be hasty to toss them out.

Before you get too carried away, I'd check that the inner cable hasn't started to fray/herniate just near the nipple, where it winds around the cable drum inside the STI lever. This sounds like the problem to me...

This is especially common with DA 10 speed levers (more so than with 8 and 9 speed) and should always be checked if there are problems shifting to smaller rear cogs. With the 10 speed brifters the broken cable end is *very* difficult and tedious to extract...

Ah geez.

I had at least 2 sets of shifters die in ways that I probably could have solved by reading this thread.

I had one set of 105 shifters that probably would have cleaned out well with brake cleaner, and I had a set of 9-speed Ultegra that had the cable end break off inside.

Both are gone/replaced now. :(

Lots of good ideas in this thread.

that inability to shift down is the return spring. they die. cleaning will help but it is on a slow death spiral. a .02 cent part that you will have to repair by replacing the entire unit.

go on ebay and take note at how many brand new Left STIs are for sale. that is from people having to shell out big cash to fix the right shifter by buying a new set and selling the left to recoup some.

yup, you can blast the innards with WD40 or something, but they'll die shortly thereafter

...and will usually go for a LONG time without a problem.

But once it breaks, even the smallest, most inexpensive internal part, you're done. Time to replace the component.

I switched over totally to Campy on all my bikes about two years ago and will never ride Shimano again. I like being able to rebuild stuff rather than being forced to replace.

...even the smallest, most inexpensive internal part...

Never a problem with Campy because even the smallest internal part is very expensive if you can find one in stock at the LBS, otherwise add shipping costs on top of the already inflated price.

...I like being able to rebuild stuff rather than being forced to replace.

And unless you do your own wrenching good luck finding the teenager at the LBS that can spell Campagnolo, much less rebuild a lever for a reasonable labor cost. Welcome to our disposable society.

I too like the ability to repair and rebuild my components but for the casual cyclist that has no mechanical skills/interest this is not a huge cost savings.

Never a problem with Campy because even the smallest internal part is very expensive if you can find one in stock at the LBS, otherwise add shipping costs on top of the already inflated price.

Bah, have you priced new DA levers lately? Or better yet a new Record lever? You can get a lot of small parts and labor for the cost of replacement. And the Internet is an excellent resource. I use it all the time for lots of things.

:)



And unless you do your own wrenching good luck finding the teenager at the LBS that can spell Campagnolo, much less rebuild a lever for a reasonable labor cost. Welcome to our disposable society.

I too like the ability to repair and rebuild my components but for the casual cyclist that has no mechanical skills/interest this is not a huge cost savings.

I do all my own wrenching. And for many years I did a lot of other peoples wrenching too (10 years in shops). And I'd agree that most shops won't have a mechanic that is competent to work on Campy...but, again, the Internet is a wonderful resource. And far be it from me to advocate Campy for the casual cyclist.

Shimano (especially Dura-Ace) is great stuff...just very frustrating when it does break and can't be serviced. That's all I'm saying. Nothing more. Not slamming Shimano. Just pointing out one aspect of it I don't care for.

hm...the most expensive piece i've replaced in a Campy lever has been about $12. now, i have replaced a lever body, but i don't recall what it cost. i'm sure it was less than a new shifter, though...and i'm positive it was less than the $250 needed to replace a single D/A shifter.