Commuting with a Cannondale Adventure 1000. The rear rim is constantly going out of true. I'm stuck with a 32-hole rim due to the funky SRAM DualDrive hub *sigh*.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Commuting with a Cannondale Adventure 1000. The rear rim is constantly going out of true. I'm stuck with a 32-hole rim due to the funky SRAM DualDrive hub *sigh*.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.


Velocity Deep V would be a good choice. Generally V shaped rims are stronger then box section rims at the expense of heavier weight and stiff road feel. Velocity Deep V's are pretty bomber...

Perhaps it's the quality of the build rather than the rim. I would take it to a competent shop and have them retension the wheel.

Commuting with a Cannondale Adventure 1000. The rear rim is constantly going out of true. I'm stuck with a 32-hole rim due to the funky SRAM DualDrive hub *sigh*.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I'll second Todd's comments. A wheel that is constantly going out of true is almost cetainly undertensioned. Inadequate tension is almost a given with factory wheels. Take it to your shop, and have the wheel re-laced with new spokes. I say that because de-tensioning and re-tensioning the wheel will severely stress the spokes, shortening their fatigue life.

You might ask the shop if they can give you something of a deal, given the problems you've had, but don't demand anything. Remember, if the wheel is undertensioned, it's Cannondale's fault, not your shop's. Don't be a jerk about it, and be prepared for them to say "no". Cannondale won't be paying them for the labor, for sure.

--Shannon

Commuting with a Cannondale Adventure 1000. The rear rim is constantly going out of true. I'm stuck with a 32-hole rim due to the funky SRAM DualDrive hub *sigh*.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I had a similar thing happen to one of my wheels. I bought it from Excel and apparently, the drive side spokes weren't laced properly. I took it to a shop and they re-trued it. I got it home it was out of true again in less than 50 miles (severely). Once this occurred, I decided I would take care of it myself. I am dealing Mavic CXP 33 wheels and I just happened to have an old Mavic rim laying around. After some close observation, a little help from sheldonbrown.com, and a good version of the proper spoke pattern, I determined that I needed to change the direction of every single drive side spoke.

I know this seems a little extreme. It seems that spokes have to counter against each other in a very specific way. The way mine was initially set up didn't achieve this. This set of wheels now have over 3000 miles on them and haven't needed a single adjustment since the rebuild.

As far as a sturdy rim, I have a set of Ambrosio Excellence rims. These are heavy duty - I only use these on rides featuring really rough pavement. ( they just happen to be 36 hole design)

Commuting with a Cannondale Adventure 1000. The rear rim is constantly going out of true. I'm stuck with a 32-hole rim due to the funky SRAM DualDrive hub *sigh*.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Both have worked well for me. But again build is everything..

Thanks for all the tips. My other bike is a Cannondale roadie (with 700 x 23 tires), and it dawned on me that in four years I've never had a problem with the rims. They're Sun ME14A; 36-hole, but still, that's pretty impressive, especially compared to what I've been experiencing. I got in contact with a rep at Sun and asked him what was hands-down the strongest 32-hole rim. He said the Rhyno-LItes. So I've ordered them, as well as some DT Swiss Spokes, and taken them to a highly recommended local wheel-builder (www.wheelbuilder.com). We'll see how it goes.