First road bike for a new college commuter

[mrwheezy117]

I'm a college student looking to buy my first road bike for under a $1000 to commute and ride around the area to get to surrounding towns (10miles).

Where I live is slightly/moderately hilly area (Chapel Hill, NC), red bricked sidewalks, and paved roads so getting a road bike wouldn't severely limit my travels.

My question is I'm deciding between a Specialized Allez, Trek 1.1/1.2, or 2013 Motobecane
Vent Noir from Bikesdirect. com (which I am skeptical about since I heard mixed reviews of buying bikes online). I'd go for Craigslist but I'm a little wary since my only experience with a used bike has led to repairs canceling out the cost savings.

I'm also looking to upgrade from the stock 2300 to a Shimano Tiagra since the 2300/Sora has a really awkward switch that's miles away from the drop bars.

Unfortunately, I'm a complete newb at this, so any recommendations or suggestions?

Thanks!

[Gitit]

I'd go for the Allez, but I think that as a beginner you'll enjoy any of them so go with whatever one gets you most excited to ride it.

[AndrwSwitch]

I'm a college student looking to buy my first road bike for under a $1000 to commute and ride around the area to get to surrounding towns (10miles).

Where I live is slightly/moderately hilly area (Chapel Hill, NC), red bricked sidewalks, and paved roads so getting a road bike wouldn't severely limit my travels.

My question is I'm deciding between a Specialized Allez, Trek 1.1/1.2, or 2013 Motobecane
Vent Noir from Bikesdirect. com (which I am skeptical about since I heard mixed reviews of buying bikes online). I'd go for Craigslist but I'm a little wary since my only experience with a used bike has led to repairs canceling out the cost savings.

I'm also looking to upgrade from the stock 2300 to a Shimano Tiagra since the 2300/Sora has a really awkward switch that's miles away from the drop bars.

Unfortunately, I'm a complete newb at this, so any recommendations or suggestions?

Thanks!

If I'm reading right, you already have a road bike.

I don't know how bad your school is. But colleges are often about the worst locations going for keeping a bike. Do your research before you drop a bunch of money.

Is the only thing that bothers you about your bike that the shifter has that odd thumb button? To be honest, my advice there is to get over it. But if you must, you can fix that for $200-$300.

A lot of people feel who've been riding a while feel they bought the wrong bike the first time. It doesn't fit their purpose or the size is off, or they didn't spend their "real" number. Take a little time to ride the bike you've got and (without buying any big-ticket items) make it work for you. At least to the extent that you can. When you're feeling less like a noob, take a little time and think about what you don't like about your bike and what you really want from it. What do you have, anyway?

[bballr4567]

Secteur sport compact??


However, I'd double think about getting a nice bike on campus. The higher end they look the more likely they will get stolen.

[mrwheezy117]

Oh no I don't have a bike yet. If I did, I would've done my research before hand to not make a regrettable purchase.

My college campus is very safe in terms of crime. I never had anything stolen here even though by my own ignorance, I should've. But I am planning on keeping my bike inside the dorm room or outside the classroom (in broad daylight) for an hour or two at most, so theft shouldn't be an issue.

But my question is to what extent is the Shimano Sora ergonomically unfriendly to justify purchasing the Tiagra? Because I'm just stuck on whether I should get the Specialized Allez Sport or Elite. (Treks are higher priced and BikesDirect's reliability is doubtful)

[bballr4567]

You wont be riding in the drops around campus. It just wont make sense. Now, if you were actually riding on the road for exercise you would be.



Still, college campuses are high crime areas for bike thefts even on safe campuses.

[AndrwSwitch]

Rather than speculating, call your campus police and ask them. My school, at least, publishes their statistics from time to time. Bike theft is chronically underreported. So keep that in mind when interpreting their statistics. If you have a roommate, don't give your dorm room too much credit for being secure.

Commenting about upgrading from Sora/2300 confused me. If you don't have a bike, you have nothing to upgrade from. IMHO, buying a bike that you intend to bolt more money to immediately upon purchase is stupid. A lot of the time, if you just rolled that back into your initial purchase price, you'd get whatever upgrade you had in mind, and a generally higher level of componentry everywhere else too.

Be aware that for 2013, Sora no longer has the thumb switch. I find it fine to operate from up on the brake hoods but awkward from the drops. I also don't think it's an issue with a commuting bike. When the integrated shifters on my commuter died, I substituted downtube shifters. Cheaper. They also happen to be lighter and, depending on the execution, can be more reliable. It'll take me about ten years to be able to say that's true of mine - Shimano's integrated shifters are also extremely reliable. The one I had that broke was from another company. While it's a bit slower for me to operate downtube shifters or a thumb button than the nicer integrated shifters on my other bike, it's not like somebody will give me a prize for getting to school a few seconds faster.

Colleges tend to be able to support some used bike shops. For me, used from a shop is about the best option going for value. You should still be able to ride a few bikes, somebody else will have paid for the initial depreciation, and a reputable shop should be sending you out the door on something that's in good mechanical shape. Some may even stand behind their bikes for a while. For me, the big value-added in buying from a shop is that I get to ride some bikes. And for a bike ridden on longer rides, like those to neighboring towns, I think having one that fits is really important, something I figure out by test riding. Get on the phone and call around - see if you've got something right on campus, and see what's in your area.

Also, give a little thought to how much stuff you want to carry and how you'll carry it. I hate wearing backpacks on bikes. And after about a half hour or if there's any sustained climbing, I really don't like my messenger bag any more either. I have a rack on my commuter and use panniers when I want to move more stuff or go a longer distance. Getting those onto racing-styled bikes like the Allez or Trek 1-series can be a bit of a battle. Specialized and Trek do both address that kind of use, as do a lot of companies. (Specialized Tricross, Trek CrossRip.) Give a little thought to bad weather. Fender clearance is lacking and installation is often more difficult on racing-styled bikes.

One of the side bonuses of buying used is that frames in the '90s weren't as committed to looking like race frames as they tend to be lately. We're seeing some backlash now as people find they'd really like not to have the wheels spraying water all over them, and maybe they also want to have 25 mm or 28 mm tires, and sometimes even at the same time. But often you can get all that in a little older bike. You just need to stay away from late-model midlife crisis rigs.

[gte105u]

I have an Allez with Apex components. I love it for fitness riding, training, and light racing. I rode it for about a week as my commuter with a backpack for work. It was because I took the pedals off my hybrid while I waited on the pedals I ordered to come in. I can say I was not a fan at all of riding it with a backpack on. Now I am sure that you could tweak the fit so it was less of an issue, but it is built in the same geometry as the Tarmac. You may want to consider the Sectuer or another of that shape/fit.

[PJ352]

Oh no I don't have a bike yet. If I did, I would've done my research before hand to not make a regrettable purchase.

My college campus is very safe in terms of crime. I never had anything stolen here even though by my own ignorance, I should've. But I am planning on keeping my bike inside the dorm room or outside the classroom (in broad daylight) for an hour or two at most, so theft shouldn't be an issue.

But my question is to what extent is the Shimano Sora ergonomically unfriendly to justify purchasing the Tiagra? Because I'm just stuck on whether I should get the Specialized Allez Sport or Elite. (Treks are higher priced and BikesDirect's reliability is doubtful)

Since the 2013 Shimano Sora STI's no longer use the thumb tabs, I'm assuming you're looking at 2012 models.

If so, I agree with the others that, given your intended uses and that fact that most cyclists prefer riding on the hoods, the thumb tab isn't going to hold you back.

However, the Allez Elites 10 speed Tiagra is (IMO) a worthwhile upgrade, assuming you can manage the added cost.

That said, I'd go with a good used bike for a campus commuter, for all the aforementioned reasons.

[mrwheezy117]

I'll have to look into the crime rate for sure but seeing that I'll be keeping the bike in my room (and the roommate is a good friend), I'll be safe. Plus, there are a few other really nice road bikes (from what I can identify) out on the rack getting rained on.

But apologies for the confusion. I meant if I should buy the Allez Sport vs Elite or Trek 1.2 vs 1.5 to go from the Sora to the Tiagra. If the thumb switch is no longer an issue, then I can't imagine why I would shell out an extra $200 for the Tiagra.

I've also looked at Craigslist and used bike shops around here and there aren't many options.

So I'm slowly narrowing down my choices. Also, is the 2013 Shimano 2300 thumb-switch free as well? And how is the Secteur different from the Allez?

[PJ352]

I'll have to look into the crime rate for sure but seeing that I'll be keeping the bike in my room (and the roommate is a good friend), I'll be safe. Plus, there are a few other really nice road bikes (from what I can identify) out on the rack getting rained on.

But apologies for the confusion. I meant if I should buy the Allez Sport vs Elite or Trek 1.2 vs 1.5 to go from the Sora to the Tiagra. If the thumb switch is no longer an issue, then I can't imagine why I would shell out an extra $200 for the Tiagra.

I've also looked at Craigslist and used bike shops around here and there aren't many options.

So I'm slowly narrowing down my choices. Also, is the 2013 Shimano 2300 thumb-switch free as well?

2300 is 8 speed and has the thumb tabs. Up until their 2013 revamp, Shimano's Sora had the thumb tab. It was (and still is, 9 speed) Tiagra went to 10 speed in 2012.

Given the above changes and their apparent impact on your purchase, you need to find out the model year of any and all bikes of interest.

[tednugent]

buy something cheap. $1000 is a lot to spend as a college student.... which can inevitably get stolen. Books are expensive also....

So.. I would agree, a Trek 1.1 or the base Allez, are comparable in price.... would be good choices.

Don't forget to lock your wheels, since they are attached to quick releases.

If you were to go BikesDirect, I would recommend a Wellington 3.0 (but upgrade the seat immediately)
Road Bikes - Windsor Wellington 3.0 Web Sale Prices
the wheels..while the brake track is not machined... these wheels roll a lot better than the Specialized wheels on my Secteur

[AndrwSwitch]

The Secteur has "relaxed" geometry. See if you can tell a difference in the ride. Sometimes these bikes give a bit more room and allowance for bigger tires, racks and fenders. That's a good thing to look at in person.

[mrwheezy117]

Sorry for the constant barrage of questions. I'm pretty close to deciding between the two/three Allez. Will I notice the difference between the 8-9-10 speeds? (Other than the hurt in my wallet, which won't be too bad since I'll be paying for 50% of the bike with my summer job)

(The Secteur is definitely on my mind as well, I'll just have to test out the geometry later when I go to my LBS)

[PJ352]

Sorry for the constant barrage of questions. I'm pretty close to deciding between the two/three Allez. Will I notice the difference between the 8-9-10 speeds? (Other than the hurt in my wallet, which won't be too bad since I'll be paying for 50% of the bike with my summer job)

(The Secteur is definitely on my mind as well, I'll just have to test out the geometry later when I go to my LBS)

First off, don't fret about the 'barrage of questions'. They don't call this the beginner's corner for nothin'..

To answer your question correctly, it takes more than providing a number of cogs at the rear to get gearing right for an individual. Terrain and fitness are the primary considerations, with style of riding, another.

The goal is to match the gearing to those considerations, so (to illustrate the point) it's entirely possible to have a 10 speed drivetrain not match your needs, while an 8 might.

One thing you'll want to check on the bikes of interest is the cranksets. I could be mistaken, but believe all will be compacts with 50/ 34 tooth chainrings. If this is the case, it represents a decent compromise for most riders, and assuming you're of 'average' fitness living in hilly (bit not mountainous) terrain, this along with a 12-28 (or similar) 9 speed cassette/ drivetrain should suite your needs.

Keep in mind that I made some assumptions/ generalizations here, so take my recommendation with a grain of salt. Once you've narrowed the field, discussed your needs with your LBS (definitely, do that) and provide us with more specifics (year, make, model) re: the bikes, we can make more specific recommendations.

[gte105u]

If you do decide to go with Tiagra, see if the LBS has (or can order) your size in the 2012 models. You may be able to get the Tiagra group (since there were not any major changes to Tiagra from '12 to '13 that I know of) at closer to a '13 Sora price. As was mentioned, if you don't want the thumb tabs then you will have to get the '13 Sora, but either year of Tiagra is fine.

[BostonG]

Rhetorical question but have you considered a hybrid road bike?

Don’t mean to shake up what you’ve been thinking but if your use is going to be mainly for commuting short(ish) distances and running errands, it may be worth some thought.

They are less expensive, lower geared, more upright (which is good for shorter distances), better able to negotiate different types of terrain, have beefier wheels and tires, good clearances for fenders and a rack, look less dorky with a mirror attached, etc.

The Allez (and others you mentioned) are designed more for sport and fitness. Just something to be aware of and consider when you visit the LBS.

[AndrwSwitch]

I took one of my bikes from 9-speed to 10-speed a few years ago when the old shifters started missing shifts.

I notice that cassettes and chains cost me a lot more. 9 cogs is already a lot. As mentioned above, you do need to choose the right 9 cogs. True of a 10-speed drivetrain as well.

FWIW, I think hybrids suck. The things they do that road bikes don't are waste more energy and make my shoulder hurt if I ride for a half hour. They can also be hard to set up to fit someone who pedals continuously.

[BostonG]

I took one of my bikes from 9-speed to 10-speed a few years ago when the old shifters started missing shifts.

I notice that cassettes and chains cost me a lot more. 9 cogs is already a lot. As mentioned above, you do need to choose the right 9 cogs. True of a 10-speed drivetrain as well.

FWIW, I think hybrids suck. The things they do that road bikes don't are waste more energy and make my shoulder hurt if I ride for a half hour. They can also be hard to set up to fit someone who pedals continuously.

I respectfully disagree.

They don’t suck, they are very far from sucking and they have a good purpose. And it seems to me that their purpose is more in line with what the OP describes as his intended use. He didn’t say he’d be doing 50+ mile hammer fitness group rides, just tooling around town running errands and commuting to class. I’d reach for my hybrid in those cases.

And I’m surprised to hear you think they are harder to set up to fit…seems to me that they don’t need to be as dialed in as a road bike would, so it would be the opposite. And I don’t think the OP needs to be concerned with lost energy. Again, it’s not going to be a long and hilly drop me if you can fitness ride. They are lower geared so he’ll actually conserve energy if he needs to. He won’t lose much in 10 or less miles.

Don’t get me wrong, IMO a race bike is more fun to ride but a hybrid seems like a better choice to me so I thought the OP would want to know of that option.

OP, if you’re going to wear spandex for most rides, go with a race oriented bike. If you plan to wear regular clothing, consider a hybrid. That’s not completely true and is a bit of a joke but just a bit. The point is that a race bike has its purpose, as does a hybrid.

[PJ352]

... a race bike has its purpose, as does a hybrid.

FWIW, I agree with BostonG on this. I'm not suggesting to the OP that he abandon considering race/ relaxed geo bikes, but I think the points made lend more than enough legitimacy to considering a hybrid.

IMO/E they are generally cheaper, easier to set up and will suite many casual/ recreational riders needs quite well.

OP: test rides are free, so the only cost is to you is time, but well spent if it helps you make a better buying decision.

[mrwheezy117]

Yes, a hybrid is also on the plate. But I do want to use my bike for fitness purposes while commuting. Will I be in spandex and going on 50+ hammer fitness group rides, definitely not. But I really like drop handlebars compared to flats, and if there is a hybrid that has those, that would be something I'd definitely look into.

As for the drivetrain, what should I look for a 5"10 guy who is somewhat fit (I'm trying to get more fit), weights ≈145-150lbs, and lives in a somewhat hilly area. Because if I'm going with the Allez Elite vs Sports route, my choices are between a 12-28 Tiagra 10-set vs 12-27 Sora 9-set. I'll probably end up going with the Sport for cost alone but just curious because I always assumed more the better in terms of options in various environments.

[BostonG]

Will I be in spandex and going on 50+ hammer fitness group rides, definitely not.

Tut tut tut my dear boy. Don’t be so hasty with your cycling future. I mean you’ll have the bike. OK, maybe not a hammerfest but after acclimating, consider a spandex clad (beginner) group ride, you may be surprised.

I really like drop handlebars compared to flats, and if there is a hybrid that has those, that would be something I'd definitely look into.

I think the closest thing to what you describe would be a relaxed geometry road bike (like a Giant Defy or Specialized Secteur).

But ride all 3 types (and remember the type of riding you’ll be doing most often, even if the race bike is the most fun to test ride, will you be happy taking it on a 2 mile ride to the coffee shop?) – road oriented hybrid, relaxed geo road bike, standard/race geo road bike. And not just around the block. Take them on long rides and hit some hills too.

I always assumed more the better in terms of options in various environments.

It’s the opposite thought for me, less gears and tighter ratios. But you need to have the strength, power, and fitness to get to less. I haven’t looked at those specific bikes but will assume they both are compact cranks (50/34). At your weight and assuming an ok level of fitness, either set should work for ya but again, best thing would be to find a nice hill near the shop and see for yourself.

Best of luck. Have fun.

[gte105u]

It may be frowned on by the cycling elites, but you certainly can do fitness riding on a hybrid. Before I got my Allez, I rode for several months on my GT hybrid for fitness purposes. It was what got me into good enough riding shape that I could be confident in getting the right thing when I got a road bike. Though not nearly as effficient/stiff as a road bike, I had no problem getting my hybrid up to 17+ mph average solo rides for 1 hour plus. My hands would go a little numb due to the lack of hand positions, but some bar ends could make up for that. A pair of dual use pedals (platform one side and SPD on the other) and you are good to go. Shoot, my first triathlon was on my fat tire hybrid, and I held my own in it. As I said before, I love my Allez and would recommend it to anyone for fitness/training or even low-level racing. But as a commuter it sucks, my $300 GT hybrid is much better.

Personally I think a purchase such as these should be made first on the primary use, which in your case is commuting. You are going to make a lot of compromises going after a more race-inspired bike.

[PJ352]

... my choices are between a 12-28 Tiagra 10-set vs 12-27 Sora 9-set.

Most of this post has already been addressed, so I'll just add that the difference between these two likely comes down to the addition of ~16 tooth cog on the 10 speed, its deletion on the 9 speed. In other words, you'd probably never notice the difference.

Bringing the hybrid back into the convo, they generally come with less cogs (generally, 8 or 9 speed) and lower gearing when compared to drop bar bikes. For a commuter/ first bike, given that you're 'somewhat fit', this may initially offer some advantages. As you build saddle time and fitness, you may look to tightening up the gearing a little.

As a couple of us mentioned previously, much of the advice offered goes on the premise that the drop bar bikes come equipped with compact cranksets. Hybrids would be equipped with either compacts or triples (~50/40/30T rings).

[AndrwSwitch]

Funny enough, I saw my PT about my shoulder today. He suggested that until it's better, I avoid riding with my hands in the palms-down position. But I'm fine to keep doing pretty much whatever I want palms-in.

One of the things that I think tends to get confused in these discussions is that not all road bikes are racing bikes. If a person wants to sit more upright, fine - road bikes can be set up that way. I find hybrids harder to set up for me because they have a mile-tall head tube and often riser bars. Last time I borrowed one, I had the (ugly, heavy, adjustable) stem set all the way in the down position and I actually stripped the controls off the bars and flipped them over. I still didn't like it. Lately, they've even got some miserable imitation of front suspension making the front ends even higher. And at the end of the day, the bike still has bars that only offer me one place to put my hands, and it's not the orientation I want if I'm spending more time on the bike. So yeah, harder to set up. While I certainly prefer a road bike that's actually set up for me, at least with drop bars I can set the saddle height and have a better chance of finding a hand position in the right vicinity. When it is set up for me, they're "have my cake and eat it too" handlebars. Cruising position? Yeah. High-effort position? Yeah, it's there too. Climbing position? Check.

I guess the tl;dr version of the post is that drop bars are awesome.

I do have a flat handlebar bike that I love. It's got a real suspension fork and 2.25" knobbies. So it's not that I think all flat handlebar bikes suck. I just don't see a purpose for one that I can't take further off-road than my cyclocross bike but still isn't very efficient or much fun on the road.

FWIW, I think the thing that makes it hard to ride a road bike a couple miles to the coffee shop is that people often insist on using clipless pedals with them. Just like putting the bars down low, this isn't something that somebody's holding a gun to my head and making me do; my commuter gets clips and straps and I ride it in whatever shoes and clothes I happen to be wearing.