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  1. #1
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    Beginner questions about trainer wheel and saddle handlebar drop.

    Greetings, nice people ...

    I just got a used but very mint 2010 Fuji SL1 Comp, with Shimano 105 component for $700, I dont know how much used bike depreciate from a new price, but I saw a new one on Ebay around $1300, so I thought $700 is a fair price, most new starter alloy bike I saw already in that price range anyway. Plus I like the Red and Black color, I read somewhere that red bike is faster

    I consider this my first time into road biking, the last time I learn to ride a bike was like 15-20 years ago, I'm 36 now. Was really intrigued by road cycling when I was morning jogging, and all these cool bike rider passed me on the track, I was like, "Heyyy, I want one of those"

    Boy, first time ride is really a pain in the ass, literally. There's already a lot of threads for beginner tips, I think that really helped me getting into this new hobby/sport. Got myself a flat tire kit, with CO2 pump, a new Selle Max Gel Flow, the next upgrade maybe a clipless pedal and a shoes, I'm thinking about Shimano Click'R, I read it was easier to get on/off.

    Before I jumped into the road, I want to get used to the bike, so I got a used Cycleops Fluid 2, along with the mat and front wheel riser from craiglist for $30, which I thought is a steal, considering new price is more than $300, this nice lady was just want to clean up the house I think. I want to get a spare cheap wheel with trainer tire, my first question is, can I use single speed wheel to replace my 10 speed Shimano 105 wheel, I mean, just for training, can I just swap between those 2, would it be a problematic for the chain and the rear derailleur? Or should I get a spare wheel with the same 10 speed cassette? Or should I get get a new Fulcrum Racing 7 wheelset from Wiggle for $170 to used as main wheelset, and use the original wheel as trainer? I have no idea how's the quality between Fulcrum Racing 7 and my original wheel, but I think that's pretty the cheapest wheelset I can found, along with Shimano R500 wheelset.

    From the pics below, do you think it's enough drop from saddle to the handlebar? I dont need the all aero needs, or speed, just something that best for total beginner like me. I'm 5.7, and the bike is 50cm frame.

    Thanks so much folks, for you all in US, have a great memorial day weekend.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails A newbie with couple questions regarding trainer wheel and saddle handlebar drop.-20130525_124846-large-.jpg  
    Last edited by Vanquiz; 05-25-2013 at 02:27 PM.

  2. #2
    Burnum Upus Quadricepus
    Reputation: brucew's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vanquiz View Post
    From the pics below, do you think it's enough drop from saddle to the handlebar?
    Without you on the bike, it's sort of like asking, "How long is a piece of string?"

    Saddle to bar drop is a matter of fitting and comfort. I'm of the opinion that if it fits you and is comfortable for you, then it doesn't matter.

    There are those who feel it's a matter of aesthetic. For most of them, it's "flip it and slam it" or it doesn't look good. In other words, remove all the spacers (slammed) and flip the stem so that it's level, not pointing up. Those folks will have a really hard time with your current setup.

  3. #3
    Cycling induced anoesis
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    Re: a spare rear wheel for trainer use, just get a cheap wheel with a freehub that'll accommodate your current drivetrain setup. Even when riding the trainer, I think you'll want the ability to utilize different gear combos.

    Re: your bike set up, looking at your fore/ aft saddle position, I suggest considering a standard bike fitting. Once the saddle height, fore/ aft and tilt are properly set, based on your preferences, style of riding, anatomy, etc., the fitter can then address reach and bar drop.

  4. #4
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    Thanks for the suggestion, I might get a standard fitting from LBS along with some basic stuff/accessories

  5. #5
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    Sure you can get a spare wheel but my advice would be to ride outside as much as possible. Your sanity will benefit from it much more!

  6. #6
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    There should be numerous online resources to help you get started with the right saddle height and fitting. You can start there by measuring yourself and get a rough setup done. It would of course be the most beneficial if you get yourself fitted by your LBS.

    IMHO, you really need to get some clipless pedals and shoes. This will make a dramatic difference in how you ride and train. With the pedals you will be able to concentrate on a smooth circular motion rather than mashing the pedals.

    I think you got a great deal with the used bike and trainer. I would suggest either learning to tune the bike up yourself or take it to a LBS to get it fine tuned.

  7. #7
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    Congrats on getting all your stuff used, great job of finding some nice equipment at low prices.

    You're a beginner, not a racer, you don't need a pro fit, I've been riding for over 40 years including racing (not pro level) and never had a pro fit done. Read this and try doing it yourself before throwing money to some LBS for something you can do yourself; see: BikeFit - Road Bikes And if for some reason you still can't do it then consider the LBS route, but this fitting stuff isn't rocket science, it only takes a bike shop a week to train someone to do it using bike fitting machines, and a day of training using a customers bike. If they can train some high school kid to do this stuff you can learn how on your own.

    I also wouldn't jump out and buy some decent wheels for a bit, give yourself some time first. If your still riding after 2 years and for some reason have the bug to get new wheels fine, but for right now you don't need them.

    You also need to use a geared rear wheel on the trainer because it's the gearing that makes the trainer easier or harder to work, but you should get a cheap steel quick release to replace the good one while on the trainer because the trainer can mar up the quick release nut and lever.

    And again, don't go nuts on trying to buy all sorts of do dads to upgrade because you don't need that stuff and none of it will do anything for your speed. Concentrate on riding the bike and learning how to train to get stronger, don't worry about upgrades until something breaks. Besides, 83% of all people getting into a new physical exercise routine quite in 3 to 6 months, you could upgrade till your silly then quit riding after you find out it's not for your, then all that money you spent becomes expensive garage art and you can't recoup it if you try to sell the bike either. I'm not saying you're going to quit, just saying give yourself a couple of years before deciding if you need to make some upgrade changes, and if you're still riding and loving it and your getting stronger and feel the need to upgrade then do it...heck by then you may need a better bike entirely!
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xk98yvozq1g
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nvk63...eature=related
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=p92Stnnigjs
    "They don't do things that way anymore. This is the Age of Science Know-How, electronal marvels."

  8. #8
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    Thank you sooo much everyone ...

    I will try to ride outside as much as possible, and I already have a clipless pedal in mind, I might get the Shimano Click'R, they said it's easier to get on/off compared to others.

    Also Froze, thank you for putting me back to reality, all this new bike syndrome makes me want to buy this and that, but I promised myself not to upgrade anything yet until it breaks or at least until Im sure I will keep riding until couple years.

    Cheers

  9. #9
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    Riding outside is more fun, but a good second best alternative is inside with Sufferfest videos. It's going to rain here all day, and I actually look forward to an hour or so on the trainer this afternoon.

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