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  1. #1051
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    Quote Originally Posted by thatkidduffy View Post


    The FM098 are growing on me. I'm still big fan of the arched top tube, but it is growing on me....but the thing looks fast, and the sealth look is pretty sweet for sure.

    Nicely built.

    When you get a chance, would be interested in a complete weight with pedals, computer etc...as the photo shows.

    Getting the itch to build another bike now, this is a candidate frame for sure.

    Oh also, what do you mean dealt with on the "other forum"? Didn't you just deal directly with Dengfu through their email, or did you do some group buy on another forum?

    Thanks
    Last edited by zigmeister; 04-10-2012 at 07:34 AM.

  2. #1052
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    Quote Originally Posted by beston View Post
    Awesome build. I'm getting in on the next group buy and I'm going with the 3K matte (but no decals). You did a great job putting that bike together.

    Just out of curiosity, how did you find running the cables through the frame? Does the housing go through the frame to, or is there some kind of liner in there?
    Cable running couldn't have been simpler. Literally just poked the cable in the hole and pushed it through, not a single problem with any of the them.

    Seems to have an internal housing, as there was no cable liner sticking out of any of the holes, as I have seen on some frames.

  3. #1053
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    Quote Originally Posted by relsah View Post
    that's a sweet lookin' ride. i like the "D-WORKS" decal. what color is that decal, gloss black or gray? did you apply any clearcoat over the decal?

    how did you run the cable under the bottom bracket. i'd assume that just like most of the fm098s that it did not come with a cable guide under the BB. i'd appreciate if you can take a picture of it too.

    one last thing, i noticed that you have an inline cable adjuster, is it really necesasary. how much of a help is that when running an internal cable system?

    thanks
    Thanks! Decal is just plain black (ie, not matte) from Marco Pollo. No clearcoat, just stuck straight on there. May look at that further down the line though.

    I did the same as several people have done under the bottom bracket, just a piece of cable outer between the two holes. It looks really tidy. I'll get a pic later on today for you.

    I'll be honest with you, the adjusters are really handy to have and the rear one worked like a dream. The front one however, is a lot stiffer and so is of less use. This mean that dialling the front mech in was a pain in the arse. Got there in the end though, now just waiting for it to go out again when the cables stretch!!

  4. #1054
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    Quote Originally Posted by thatkidduffy View Post
    I'll be honest with you, the adjusters are really handy to have and the rear one worked like a dream. The front one however, is a lot stiffer and so is of less use. This mean that dialling the front mech in was a pain in the arse. Got there in the end though, now just waiting for it to go out again when the cables stretch!!
    I'm going to be getting some inline adjusters in a couple days. I was debating on getting 2 sets to save on shipping but I might just put the adjusters on the rear cables for both my bikes. Is that the route you would go (aesthetics aside) or is it worth using one for the front shifter cable as well?

  5. #1055
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    No they will take your money if they can... do not use cyclingyong. i have screwed around by them...they cleared feedback on their webpage because it was full of negative feedback. If you used paypal do a dispute before 45 days or you may get nothing!!!!!!!!!
    I am talking from experience!
    Beware

  6. #1056
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    Quote Originally Posted by jordo_99 View Post
    I'm going to be getting some inline adjusters in a couple days. I was debating on getting 2 sets to save on shipping but I might just put the adjusters on the rear cables for both my bikes. Is that the route you would go (aesthetics aside) or is it worth using one for the front shifter cable as well?
    this is the first time I've used them, and I'd definitely recommend them with internal cabling for front and rear tbh.

  7. #1057
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    Quote Originally Posted by thatkidduffy View Post
    Thanks! Decal is just plain black (ie, not matte) from Marco Pollo. No clearcoat, just stuck straight on there. May look at that further down the line though.

    I did the same as several people have done under the bottom bracket, just a piece of cable outer between the two holes. It looks really tidy. I'll get a pic later on today for you.

    I'll be honest with you, the adjusters are really handy to have and the rear one worked like a dream. The front one however, is a lot stiffer and so is of less use. This mean that dialling the front mech in was a pain in the arse. Got there in the end though, now just waiting for it to go out again when the cables stretch!!
    you just sold me now on that inline adjusters and i'll wait for the pics

    thanks

  8. #1058
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    cansprint, thanks for the reply, i think i'm learning the hard way here.. i noticed that their website had plenty of negative feedback from people in my position and they wiped it all off but are responding to new sales on there. it's a frustrating experience. I'm sure the majority of companies discussed on here provide a good service... feel like a total sucker for picking the dodgy one. so if this is a warning to anyone... go careful if you deal with Cyclingyong

  9. #1059
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    Quote Originally Posted by zigmeister View Post
    Oh also, what do you mean dealt with on the "other forum"? Didn't you just deal directly with Dengfu through their email, or did you do some group buy on another forum?

    Thanks
    I think he is talking about velobuild.
    2000 Giant TCR, 2010 BMC
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    All about cheap carbon frames: http://cheapcarbonframes.com

  10. #1060
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    Dumb Noob Can't Access 5.0 Thread

    I know what I'm looking for but I can't get there.

    I was trying to find more info. on this ebay frame - 184962, ZCB-002

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Carbon-F...78268033289923

    I get a search hit on the 5.0 thread but I can't get the page to load.

    The geometry on the above frame for a 58cm works perfectly for me-- 73^ seat angle, 58cm top tube, 20cm head tube.

    I am looking for something that is short(er) on the top tube but a tad higher on the head tube. You have any recommendations?

    I'm also checking out the 60cm FM028, but it's a smidge long (58.6cm) and maybe a hair tall (21cm head tube).

  11. #1061
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    All,
    I'm looking for a 3k carbon top cap for my fm015 project?
    now i'e spent some time googling but can't find a uk seller thats not wanting 20

    Anyone found one or a cheap china version?

    thanks

  12. #1062
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    Quote Originally Posted by steviemidnight View Post
    All,
    I'm looking for a 3k carbon top cap for my fm015 project?
    now i'e spent some time googling but can't find a uk seller thats not wanting 20

    Anyone found one or a cheap china version?

    thanks
    These guys from Canada.


    Torontocycles Headsets, Titanium Top Cap, Titanium Spacer, Aerozine

  13. #1063
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    thanks Zigmeister

    I finally found someone in the uk that also does a few other goodies carbon mech hanger
    Fibre Lyte - Cycle Products - Ahead Cap

    fibre-lyte.co.uk

  14. #1064
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    Quote Originally Posted by zigmeister View Post
    I've ordered from them several times, and am currently waiting for another order that should arrive this week. The only thing you have to be aware of is that the colors of different products won't necessarily match since he buys from different manufacturers and then there are different dye lots as well. For the price (at least in the US) you can't really go wrong.

  15. #1065
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    Quote Originally Posted by gfzyriek View Post
    I know what I'm looking for but I can't get there.

    I was trying to find more info. on this ebay frame - 184962, ZCB-002

    eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

    I get a search hit on the 5.0 thread but I can't get the page to load.

    The geometry on the above frame for a 58cm works perfectly for me-- 73^ seat angle, 58cm top tube, 20cm head tube.

    I am looking for something that is short(er) on the top tube but a tad higher on the head tube. You have any recommendations?

    I'm also checking out the 60cm FM028, but it's a smidge long (58.6cm) and maybe a hair tall (21cm head tube).
    You have to set your Display Mode to Linear Mode. You can find this setting on the top right of any thread. Once you have logged in and set your Display Mode to Linear, you will have no trouble viewing the 5.0 thread.

    To answer your questions on frame geometry. Generally, you can adjust for top tube lengths that are too short or long by swapping out stems of different length to achieve an overall reach that you would want. Head tube height can be adjusted for with headset spacers if the head tube is too short, and the height can be adjusted with an extreme negative angled stem (but only slightly in most cases) if the head tube is too long.

    Personally, if the 50cm FM028 was too long or too tall at all, i would go at least one size down and compensate for it with spacers and a longer stem.

  16. #1066
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    Quote Originally Posted by steviemidnight View Post
    All,
    I'm looking for a 3k carbon top cap for my fm015 project?
    now i'e spent some time googling but can't find a uk seller thats not wanting 20

    Anyone found one or a cheap china version?

    thanks
    Another option is Purely Custom Online Store - Headset Caps & Headset Screws - Custom Road Bicycle Accessories

    They make 3k matte top caps for very cheap. I had one delaminate under torque when preloading the headset, though, but purelycustom was quick to send a replacement once I sent the defective one back to them.

  17. #1067
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    I'm about to order the HF-FM066...light version.

    I intend to build it with campy EPS record.

    I'm unsure if I should order it with the standard BSA bottom bracket, or order it with the BB30 and use the campy adapter cups....any suggestions either way???

  18. #1068
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    Quote Originally Posted by ntb1001 View Post
    I'm about to order the HF-FM066...light version.

    I intend to build it with campy EPS record.

    I'm unsure if I should order it with the standard BSA bottom bracket, or order it with the BB30 and use the campy adapter cups....any suggestions either way???
    My two cents...it depends...haha.

    I had a CDale Supersix, of course they have BB30. Never had any issues with the setup, creaking etc..solid, and lighter than BSA.

    I now have a MC053 with BSA SRAM GXP BB. Good thing with BSA, easy to just screw it in, torque it to spec, done. No pressing or concern about creaking ever.

    But, I don't really like the looks of the external cup/bearing of BSA the more I run them, I prefer the cleaner look of BB30 type press-fit, plus the lighter weight of cranks/bearings, as well as they are supposed to be a stiffer setup in general over BSA.

    I would think stiffness is more related to the layup of the BB area though and not so much the stiffness of the bearing/shell etc...maybe a combo? A lot makes up stiffness of cranks/bb I guess. But I think the generalization is BB30/30mm standard is supposed to be stiffer over standard BSA/68mm setups.

    It is really up to you. I'm looking to do a new build, and I'm going back to BB30, and since I have a set of spare SRAM Red BB30 cranks from my CDale in a box, even better.

    It really comes down to personal preference though it seems. Arguments for going both ways can be made. I just think the press fit 30mm setup is a cleaner, simpler and better design that lightens the bike and cranks up. Most manufacturers have accepted some like that, BB386, BB30, OSBB etc...all big manufacturers names for 30mm press fit bearings in the shell.
    Last edited by zigmeister; 04-10-2012 at 10:13 AM.

  19. #1069
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    Quote Originally Posted by relsah View Post
    you just sold me now on that inline adjusters and i'll wait for the pics

    thanks
    I think just one adjuster on the RD is sufficient. Can't remember ever needing to adjust the FD. Maybe SRAM FD shifters are why? RD, another story entirely. Particularly if you are in a race/crit, get a flat, change a wheel, and now the cassettes and tension are all different like my setup. I run two pretty different carbon wheels...downside to not being able to afford a set of 303 FC tubulars AND clinchers! I have a cheap set of 50mm deep V carbon wheels for training and in the wheel bag on race day.

    Nice while riding to just reach down and quiet up the drive train at will and not pull off to the side of the road or wait until a stop to mess with the tension. My LBS didn't sell them, but the mechanic I know in the back had some in the drawer, just tossed me a couple and said see ya later! I know, they are only like $10, well worth it though.
    Last edited by zigmeister; 04-10-2012 at 12:01 PM.

  20. #1070
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    Quote Originally Posted by bevo21 View Post
    After more than a year and 6000 happy km on my FM028 I have now a (small) problem. The rear hanger broke last Sunday, and I had to replace it with the share one I got form Dengfu when I bought the frame and some other parts. I like to have again a spare one or two, so I have mailed to Mina (dengfusale@yahoo.cn) who was my contact then. But there are some problems over there, isn't it, as I read in this topic and nr,5? I also remember someone knew a company who had many rear hangers, but I can't find it anymore. Any one suggestions, thanks in advance.
    This may already be answered... I'm catching up on some older posts... but Mina's email changed. I used this one late last year for an FM098 frame order: dengfusales@163.com

  21. #1071
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    Quote Originally Posted by steviemidnight View Post
    thanks Zigmeister

    I finally found someone in the uk that also does a few other goodies carbon mech hanger
    Fibre Lyte - Cycle Products - Ahead Cap

    fibre-lyte.co.uk
    Yes...Fairwheel I think carries some of their stuff, but availability seems to be an issue at times.

    Headsets : Fairwheel Bikes, Cycling Boutique



    Fibre-Lyte Carbon Fibre Products

  22. #1072
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    Quote Originally Posted by zigmeister View Post
    400grit should be fine. Then hit it with some 1000grit and maybe 1500wet afterwards to get it right.

    I've used this combo before, and even emory cloth, but emory can gouge it, so I would just stick with 400grit. Then the 1000grit to finish it off/smooth it out.
    1500 wet grit is totally unnecessary. Sanding down a little carbon is perfectly safe. You don't need to do the 1000 either. Just sand down until headset race fits flush.

  23. #1073
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    053 Frame Build

    Some comments on my build of an 053 frame from Miracle.

    Frame was purchased to replace an existing titanium frame as i wanted something a little lighter. All components were swapped over from the old bike.

    Communication with Miracle was straightforward via email. Frame was ordered on a Thursday and arrived at my home in Australia the following Tuesday. Frame was well protected and packaged.

    Finish ordered was 3K clearcoat. There are some cosmetic blemishes where the various tubes have been bonded together. These joints are visible as ripples on the surface and are probably highlighted by the glossy clearcoat finish. On a more expensive frame these may have been more carefully finished or concealed by paint or decals.

    Structurally the frame seems quite sound and true. Bottom bracket and head tube show evidence of having been faced.

    Saddle clamp as supplied was almost unuseable. Even after lubricating, if sufficient torque is applied to hold the saddle in place, then the side clamps become wedged into the post and cannot be rotated. This was solved by inserting a spacer between the side clamps.

    Seat post clamps works perhaps too well. Adjusting seat height is not just a matter of loosening off a bolt and sliding the post up or down. I found the wedge becomes firmly attached to the seat post and the whole assembly has to be removed from the bike and the wedge prissed off the post before any adjustment could be made.

    My only other concern with the frame is the placement of the rear derailleur cable exit. The cable exits at the dropout and can foul the skewer bolt. This makes rear wheel replacement a bit more complicated.

    Otherwise the internal cabling was easy to install. I have not yet experienced any rattles from the internal cables that others have reported, although my frame is smaller (52cm) and this may have some effect.

    I use a compact chainset and there was no problem with the braze-on adapter height using a Campag Chorus FD.

    I expected the ride to be somewhat harsher than on the titanium frame but was surprised that it is no less comfortable, at least on the relatively smooth roads I have ridden on so far.

    The 52cm frame has a slacker head tube angle (72 degrees) vs the larger size 053 frames and my old frame (73 degrees). It also has a deeper bottom bracket drop and slightly shorter wheelbase than my old bike. Handling is as expected given the geometry of the new frame. Slightly more input is required on turns but the bike feels very planted and stable on the road. In its only race to date it felt very secure in fast sweeping bends and very stable in the sprint. It may be less suitable in a criterium with tight corners - at least in this frame size.

    Overall I am quite satisfied with the result. The transaction with Miracle and the build went smoothly and I am pleased with the performance of the bike.

  24. #1074
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    Quote Originally Posted by elbee View Post
    Some comments on my build of an 053 frame from Miracle.

    Frame was purchased to replace an existing titanium frame as i wanted something a little lighter. All components were swapped over from the old bike.

    Communication with Miracle was straightforward via email. Frame was ordered on a Thursday and arrived at my home in Australia the following Tuesday. Frame was well protected and packaged.

    Finish ordered was 3K clearcoat. There are some cosmetic blemishes where the various tubes have been bonded together. These joints are visible as ripples on the surface and are probably highlighted by the glossy clearcoat finish. On a more expensive frame these may have been more carefully finished or concealed by paint or decals.

    Structurally the frame seems quite sound and true. Bottom bracket and head tube show evidence of having been faced.

    Saddle clamp as supplied was almost unuseable. Even after lubricating, if sufficient torque is applied to hold the saddle in place, then the side clamps become wedged into the post and cannot be rotated. This was solved by inserting a spacer between the side clamps.

    Seat post clamps works perhaps too well. Adjusting seat height is not just a matter of loosening off a bolt and sliding the post up or down. I found the wedge becomes firmly attached to the seat post and the whole assembly has to be removed from the bike and the wedge prissed off the post before any adjustment could be made.

    My only other concern with the frame is the placement of the rear derailleur cable exit. The cable exits at the dropout and can foul the skewer bolt. This makes rear wheel replacement a bit more complicated.

    Otherwise the internal cabling was easy to install. I have not yet experienced any rattles from the internal cables that others have reported, although my frame is smaller (52cm) and this may have some effect.

    I use a compact chainset and there was no problem with the braze-on adapter height using a Campag Chorus FD.

    I expected the ride to be somewhat harsher than on the titanium frame but was surprised that it is no less comfortable, at least on the relatively smooth roads I have ridden on so far.

    The 52cm frame has a slacker head tube angle (72 degrees) vs the larger size 053 frames and my old frame (73 degrees). It also has a deeper bottom bracket drop and slightly shorter wheelbase than my old bike. Handling is as expected given the geometry of the new frame. Slightly more input is required on turns but the bike feels very planted and stable on the road. In its only race to date it felt very secure in fast sweeping bends and very stable in the sprint. It may be less suitable in a criterium with tight corners - at least in this frame size.

    Overall I am quite satisfied with the result. The transaction with Miracle and the build went smoothly and I am pleased with the performance of the bike.

    Finish: I agree, just a few spots, particularly at the seat tube/top tube/stays where they all meet have some minor ripple/bumps. Otherwise, my UD matte finish is well done.

    RD Cable: I noted this same thing. Not sure why they put it there either. I just use my smaller nut on the skewer from a titanium set, and the bike needs to be on the ground when changing wheels and then you put downward pressure to force the cable up enough for the wheel to sit in the drop securely and flat.

    Seat post clamp: Yes, exactly as you describe, once it is in, it is tight...I like this personally. Once my seat height is set, I don't want to change it ever, so the more secure the better IMHO. Never had it slip. The secret to get it out easy, loosen the bolt, it will come upward since the metal piece it pulls on is wedged. Then, tap the bolt down so it forces the wedge downward. Then I lift up on the seat/post and it comes right out. The key is tapping the bolt down to force the wedge down and release that pressure, it comes right apart/out then I've found. At least makes it easier.

    Saddle clamp: My seat slipped and tilted upward during a race. Of course, the race went across a brick section of road that was bumpy, it titled upward when I hit a big bump. Haven't had it slip/tilt otherwise though. I put carbon paste on the round pieces in the opening of the post to help reduce any chances of slippage. With that said, I was getting a creaking sound, people said it was the seat post/clamp around the forum. I found it was the seat rail clamps on the metal seat rails causing it. I just used some carbon paste on the seat rails, re-torqued, squeak went away. The past several pages back someone put a link to try and use the Bontrager mechanism which appears identical almost, just better made. Seems like an option to try for the $10 or whatever it costs. Also, I think part of the issue is the seatpost has a lot of offset to it. That puts extra torque on the seat/clamps during a ride, or while going over bumps instead of a zero offset which translates the bump straight up your bum.

    Thanks for the review, overall nearly exactly what I experienced with my MC053 purchase/build as I posted a ways back in the thread.

    Oh yeah...any photos of the build?!?!

  25. #1075
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    Quote Originally Posted by zigmeister View Post
    The past several pages back someone put a link to try and use the Bontrager mechanism which appears identical almost, just better made. Seems like an option to try for the $10 or whatever it costs.
    I have the Dengfu FM018 TT frame and did not purchase the Bontrager saddle clamp but simply added a spring of correct length and tension between the two clamps in the same manner as the Bontrager seat rail clamp.
    Michael - There may not be an 'I' in team but there is a 'U' in suck!
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