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  1. #1
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    Colnago Master Light part suggestions

    I just ordered a Colnago Master light. I plan to build it up with Athena. Looking for suggestions on the rest of the parts list (bars, stem, wheels, post). My criteria is:
    - no carbon (not negotiable)
    - classic looks
    - durable and functional
    - no stupid light parts
    - Italian brand preferred (even if really made in Taiwan)

  2. #2
    Hucken The Fard Up !
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    I will be receiving my Master 30th next week

    I will build it with a full Ultra Torque/Ultra Shift Silver Centaur group, I have a set of blue open pros laced to silver Chorus hubs 36x3, DT Revos/Comp/Alu nipples/Vittoria Corsas that wil be my all around wheelset for this build and another tubular set with silver 9 speed generation Record hubs ( heavier because of the Steel axles ) DT Coms/GP4s/brass nipples on Veloflex Roubaix.

    For the build kit I have a Chorus Titanium silver seatpost, and a Brooks Swift Titanium, I ordered mine with a threaded precisa fork, so I will use a threaded Record headset and Cinelli 1A quill stem and Giro d'Italia handlebars and Cinelli Kaleiodoscope white ( with multicolored see through the perforations) bar tape.


    Can't wait !


    thread here

    My Master 30th AD10
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    They're just bikes. Ride 'em in the rain, salt, snow and crap to fully appreciate them.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sean Kelly
    The thing about the cold is that you can never tell how cold it is from looking out a kitchen window. You have to dress up, get out training and when you come back, you then know how cold it is.

  3. #3
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    San Marco Regal Saddle
    3TTT quill stem - Status or AR84
    Bar - matching 3TTT with round bend
    post - retro Campag (but a little heavy) or a USE alien post - alu or Ti
    Wheels - 20-24 handbuilt with a semi aero rim (around 25-27mm tall)
    catye wireless computer. Something small - nothing big like a Garmin or the like.

  4. #4
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    Colnago Master Light part suggestions

    Chorus.

  5. #5
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    Mine in PR99. Athena 11spd, Deda 215 bars, Velo Orange Grand Cru seatpost, Selle Italia saddle, ProWheelBuilder XR270 rims built on Velocity silver hubs, stem doesn't matter as mine is threadless at -17 and nearly matches the tubing size of the bike, so its all good.
    Enjoy the research, build and ride.
    For some reason, mine seemed a bit "out of sorts" initially as far as the handling went, but now I have it dialed in and its awesome.

  6. #6
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    I'm also running Athena 11sp on mine. As far as Italian goes get the Campy Zonda 2-way wheels. I have been running tubeless for over 5 years and only flatted once. I have been running the Zondas dry with Hutch Fusion tubeless. Nice soft ride at 90psi

  7. #7
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    Zonda

    Quote Originally Posted by jtompilot View Post
    I'm also running Athena 11sp on mine. As far as Italian goes get the Campy Zonda 2-way wheels. I have been running tubeless for over 5 years and only flatted once. I have been running the Zondas dry with Hutch Fusion tubeless. Nice soft ride at 90psi
    At 185-190lbs, I've always been a bit leery of factory wheels. I was originally thinking of old-fashioned 32-spoke wheels. Can something like a Zonda be durable for a larger rider?

  8. #8
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    I had no idea they still made steel. Nice frames and slightly less gaudy paint that I remember from the 80s and 90s. I thought I would never own a Colnago because their sizing is not for me but I would have choices here. The only issue is they ain't cheap.

    How do they ride?
    Embrace the fact that everyone on these forums has their own unique desires, needs, experiences and environment so what works for you may not work for others.

  9. #9
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    32h box tubulars (Ambrosio CronoF20 or similar 300-250g rim) with light hubs and DT revolutions will get you a 1400g wheelset. If you think it needs to be stronger then 15g should do it.


    Quote Originally Posted by DaveG View Post
    At 185-190lbs, I've always been a bit leery of factory wheels. I was originally thinking of old-fashioned 32-spoke wheels. Can something like a Zonda be durable for a larger rider?

  10. #10
    Big is relative
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveG View Post
    At 185-190lbs, I've always been a bit leery of factory wheels. I was originally thinking of old-fashioned 32-spoke wheels. Can something like a Zonda be durable for a larger rider?
    They've been very durable under me for the last 5-6 years. I've ridden them between 220 and 240#'s with no issues. But, I also have a few sets of 32H 3X wheels and the ride is much better than the Zondas. The Zondas are lighter and I guess more aero with fewer spokes that are bladed, but these days, the quality of the ride is more important than the speed.

    Get some 32 spoke wheels with Record hubs and a quality Mavic or DT rim and enjoy the ride. You also get the added benefit of riding a wheel that most LBS's can fix since it won't have proprietary spokes.
    Retired sailor

  11. #11
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    So you are saying that 32 hole traditional wheels offer more comfort? I had not even thought about that as a criteria but I certainly would favor comfort over a small weight or aero benefit

  12. #12
    Big is relative
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveG View Post
    So you are saying that 32 hole traditional wheels offer more comfort? I had not even thought about that as a criteria but I certainly would favor comfort over a small weight or aero benefit
    Most factory wheelsets are radial laced on the front and likely on the non drive side on the rear. This saves a tiny bit of weight, might provide a miniscule aero advantage with shorter spokes that are likely aero shaped, and to make up for fewer spokes, a heavier, stiffer rim. It also gives a stiffer ride with the same tires versus a traditional 28+ spoke wheel built with some cross pattern. Some people see stiff as fast and in some applications, stiff is good on a bike. You can build a stiff traditional spoked wheel but it will be heavy. A 32H 3X laced wheel with Open Pro or equivalent with 14/15g double butted spokes will give a long service life and a great ride. Going with good hubs (Record, White, Chris King) on your initial build means you can wear out a few sets of rims before you ever wear out a hub.
    Retired sailor

  13. #13
    pmf
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveG View Post
    I just ordered a Colnago Master light. I plan to build it up with Athena. Looking for suggestions on the rest of the parts list (bars, stem, wheels, post). My criteria is:
    - no carbon (not negotiable)
    - classic looks
    - durable and functional
    - no stupid light parts
    - Italian brand preferred (even if really made in Taiwan)
    Athena is a great choice for a steel frame. I know you don't want carbon, but I would strongly urge you to consider upgrading the shifters to Chorus. Campy makes two type of shifter -- powershift and ultrashift -- you really want the ultrashift. The lowest group they come in is Chorus.

    I had this outfit build me a set of wheels for my Eddy Merckx. All silver hubs, spokes and rims. They look really sharp.

    Custom Wheel Set

  14. #14
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    excuse my ignorance but what is the difference between powershift and ultrashift? My last Campy group purchase was 2006 Centaur, so I predate all of these new terms

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by pmf View Post
    Athena is a great choice for a steel frame. I know you don't want carbon, but I would strongly urge you to consider upgrading the shifters to Chorus. Campy makes two type of shifter -- powershift and ultrashift -- you really want the ultrashift. The lowest group they come in is Chorus.
    If you can find the 2010 Athena, you will luck and get ultrashift.
    I picked up a set last month (carbon wrap so it won't help this project), rest of my set was 2012 (Crankset and shifters were 2010 carbon wrap)

    I'd be looking for NOS (or lightly used) Cinelli for this project.

  16. #16
    pmf
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveG View Post
    excuse my ignorance but what is the difference between powershift and ultrashift? My last Campy group purchase was 2006 Centaur, so I predate all of these new terms
    When I built up my Merckx in early 2011, I bought the 2010 version of Athena. At that time, the shifters were ultrashift, but carbon wrapped. In 2011, they downgraded the shifters to powershift and offered them in carbon wrapped or silver. About 18 months later, I got my wife a steel Merckx and went with Athena, but got the Chorus shifters.

    I think Campy only makes two kinds of shifters. Record differs from Chorus by a few lighter weight bits and pieces. The ultrashift levers shift nicer and allow you to "sweep" -- shift down up to five gears at a time, and shift up by three gears at a time. The powershift are one click, one gear shift. They work just fine with the Athena components. Its a nice upgrade for around $75.

  17. #17
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    answered my own question. So, powershift does not allow multiple shifts with one lever throw? Even my 1999 Veloce levers support that so that seems like a step backwards. While I do like that feature, I real abhor the idea on any carbon on this bike. Decisions, decsions

  18. #18
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    Campy Athena and Veloce are both available in all silver versions (except for black plastic shift paddles on Veloce). Shifting is very light and easy and you can down shift by single clicking very quickly if need be. I find I rarely down shift more than one gear at time anyway. Of course you can still do multiple up shifts which is more important in my experience. The only problems I have noticed with Powershift is the front shifter will sometimes seem to stick when you are on the big chainring trying to shift to the small chainring.

  19. #19
    pmf
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveG View Post
    answered my own question. So, powershift does not allow multiple shifts with one lever throw? Even my 1999 Veloce levers support that so that seems like a step backwards. While I do like that feature, I real abhor the idea on any carbon on this bike. Decisions, decsions
    I hear you, but the ultrashift stuff is a lot better. You still get everything else in silver -- and its a nice looking group. As far as one click, one shift, I find that I shift a lot more with 11-speed. Frankly, I was happy with 9-speed.

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