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  1. #1
    Fini les ecrase-"manets"!
    Reputation: bikeboy389's Avatar
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    Cutting aluminum seatpost

    I got a cheapo Kalloy seatpost for my latest build, and it's approximately 5 miles long. I'm tempted to cut it down some--it doesn't hit on the bottle bosses, but it's got to be close, since there's only about 5-6 inches showing out of what is over a foot of post.

    Shame on me for not paying attention to how long it was and getting such a monster (350mm), but what's the story on cutting it? What are my potential risks, assuming I leave at least as much inside the frame as the current minimum insertion marks?
    "jazz gives you large testicles"--aliensporebomb

  2. #2
    BrooklynVelo
    Reputation: daneil's Avatar
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    Go ahead and cut it down. All that you have to have inserted is enough so that the seatpost extends into the seattube past the junction with the top tube you're fine.
    Damn the Man, Save the Empire
    Brooklyn Velo Force

  3. #3
    banned from the museum
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    Just make sure you have a good chamfer on the end you cut, and it should be fine. Also, make sure you clean the thing out, as the chips could get into the frame and rattle around. That would bother me anyway.

  4. #4
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: DIRT BOY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeboy389
    I got a cheapo Kalloy seatpost for my latest build, and it's approximately 5 miles long. I'm tempted to cut it down some--it doesn't hit on the bottle bosses, but it's got to be close, since there's only about 5-6 inches showing out of what is over a foot of post.

    Shame on me for not paying attention to how long it was and getting such a monster (350mm), but what's the story on cutting it? What are my potential risks, assuming I leave at least as much inside the frame as the current minimum insertion marks?
    If you leave enough, nothing. I cut Aluminum and CF post all the time. I have Park cutting guide or you can buy a speedcutter. Syntace as well as others make them. You can cut bars, post and steertubes very easy. For Alum and steel only.



    DIRT BOY

    "Pain is a big fat creature riding on your back. The farther you pedal, the heavier he feels. The harder you push, the tighter he squeezes your chest. The steeper the climb, the deeper he digs his jagged, sharp claws into your muscles." - Scott Martin


  5. #5
    Now with a 5900SL P1
    Reputation: 99trek5200's Avatar
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    You are correct in your thought to keep the minimum insertion depth. I would just transfer the line up your seat post by the same amount you intend to cut off. Cleaning up the cut end with some sandpaper or a file is a good idea to remove any burrs.

  6. #6
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    I've cut a few posts clamped into my miter box and using a plain ol' Hacksaw with the appropriate blade for cutting metal.

    Like others have stated, be sure to clean up the cut end.
    Some minds are like concrete...thoroughly mixed up and permanently set!

    '07 Tarmac Expert, Campy Chorus 10spd

  7. #7
    Fini les ecrase-"manets"!
    Reputation: bikeboy389's Avatar
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    That's what I was hoping to hear. I already have a tubing cutter (just like the Syntace one shown above, but way cheaper I bet, since I got it in the plumbing dept at a hardware store instead of a bike shop) for cutting down threadless steerers, so I'm good to go.
    "jazz gives you large testicles"--aliensporebomb

  8. #8
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    Should work fine. Just cut it the same length as you "normal" seatposts, and chamfer the end with a file, a little. (to remove burr)
    If your opinion differs from mine, ..........Too bad.
    .
    How would you like it if Hitler killed you
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