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Going to Build My First Road Bike!

4K views 27 replies 13 participants last post by  biscut 
#1 ·
Life is pretty good and I find myself in a good position. I have built up what I desire for biking on the mountain (DH; FS; and a Gravel). I'm really enjoying the road and I see it as a great way to get my cardio in without a DAMN treadmill. :)

I want to build a road bike. I scoured all of the internets (ha) and I decided to go with a Kish Ti road frame. Sorry to the purist on the forum; the mtb in me requires disc!

On the fence about groupset. If I go mechanical I will go Dura Ace. If I go electronic I will go SRAM Red E-Tap. I am leaning electronic. Brakeset will be what comes with the group but rotors will be 160mm (I'm a little nutty).

Headset probably will be Chris King. Could always be Cane Creek or Hope though.

Haven't got much thought into seat or seatpost. That can wait.

I could use some help with drop bars. I have IsoCore on my only road bike (Domane SLR) it's comfortable but I don't like the flex. It flexes when I hit a good climb and I'm grabbing the hoods.

I will probably go with a Ti stem. Seems to make sense for this build.

Thanks in advance for the comments and advice.
 
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#3 ·
I think you missed the part about the OP saying "life is pretty good." That calls for high-end, baby! I disagree with you saying DA is fragile. Well over 100,000 miles for me on DA and only replaced worn items. Never broke a single thing. Some of us like the best, no matter what the price.:D
 
#6 ·
I can't imagine that anyone who has used Dura Ace components saying that are fragile.
I have no idea where No-Time came up with that one. The only part of a Dura-Ace groupo that could be labeled as "fragile" might be the cassette because the cogs are Ti which is softer and wears faster than typical steel cogs. No to mention "fragile" would be the wrong word.

Dura-Ace is a great group set aside from the cassette. Expensive, but you can probably get a great deal on 9000 right now since 9100 came out. Besides I think 9000 looks nicer too.

I think Ultegra 6800 is still your best bang for the buck. But if you're flush, by all means go for the 9000.
 
#5 ·
Dura Ace: I've read probably as much as you can find on Dura Ace from a few # designations ago (which it seems anyone who had one says "cats meow") to the newest iteration. Besides "ugly" the only suspect part claimed has been the cassette. Most recommend burning it out and getting an Ultegra.

In reading my original post I neglected a pretty important request for help! Fork!! I can sling some paragraphs on a Fox 34 or 36 and Rock Shox Pike and get into tokens and sag BUT the plain old carbon road fork...I am sad to say know ZERO about. About all I know is it must be able to accept 32 tires; be disc; and look kewl!!

Please take me to school on road forks. I'm thinking comfort here...The only person I race is ME.
 
#13 ·
3t funda or rígida. Solid both. Have the funda on my road Ti bike. 2 years no issues. I would upgrade to the rígida. The funda is no made in 1 1/8- 1 1/2( the new standard for rigidity). The rígida is.
Enve is like the candy in the store. They are expensive and I don't think worth the money. Litespeed and lynskey bikes use 3t for their builds last time I checked (2 years ago).
About your Ti stem. If you won't mind flex in the stem it is ok. The problem with Ti is the butting, the Ti used (6/4 vs 3/2.5 the most common for bike manufacturing) and the tube shape. Most Ti builds use carbon forks and stems to get increase rigidity and control/sprint handling. Ti stems depending on who makes it and how is made would be more giving or rigid. It will never be as rigid as a good carbon one. I am partial here to 3t, Easton or Enve. There are others but those are my favorites. Enve carbon products are expensive with looks and strong. My pick if money is not an issue would be Enve all over for carbon parts except the down tube. That one would be Ti for comfort.
Custom made Enve wheels by prowheel builder. Or some Boras.
Sram red etap (which I have on my Ti T1) with the old hexagon silver black design. Or maybe the whole black out etap would look good with the dark
Enve set up.
Etap is nice but the batteries are fragile. You can not put any pressure on them when removing the rear wheel or they will break at the tabs.
Consider campy record EPS or súper record if money is no issue. Very well made and durable. My next build would prob be a record.
I rode the DA 7900 for some 2 seasons and took me to cat3. It ended up with a broken crank. During a training sprint session the chainring side snapped and I ended with the crank arm/chainring clipped in hanging from my foot. I got it replaced with DA9000 and it is sitting in the shed gathering dust in its original box. The shifters also lost precision and tightness. I went Sram.
Dura ace cassette doesn't last because cogs are Ti and wear out fast. Had many and decided ultegra rear cassette was the best. About 30gm heavier last time I checked but wears out nicely.
These are my insighst. Good luck with the build!



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#7 · (Edited)
My thoughts have been drifting back to Ti today as well. I found out that Litespeed has released some more affordable Ti frames that start around $1499. We have a great Litespeed dealer here too. Still looking and thinking. I like the new Emonda SL frame, but I like the idea of Ti frame a lot more I think. Outside of aerodynamics, I am having a hard time seeing why I wouldn't go this route for my next upgrade to be honest. Leaning heavily in this direction and looking forward to seeing your build. If I am missing something fellas/ladies, please correct me, but I really can't see much of a downside to Ti for road for the group ride, gran fondo, solo rider. I might look at again for gravel as well even though I really like the new Specialized Diverge.

Budget Friendly:

https://shop.litespeed.com/collections/titanium-road/products/2017-litespeed-t6

https://shop.litespeed.com/collections/titanium-road/products/2017-litespeed-t5

The Sweet Spot IMO:

https://shop.litespeed.com/collections/prior-year-closeouts/products/2016-litespeed-t3

https://shop.litespeed.com/collections/titanium-road/products/2017-litespeed-t2

https://shop.litespeed.com/collections/titanium-road/products/2017-litespeed-t5-disc

https://www.bikerumor.com/2016/08/0...s-disc-brakes-bigger-tires-and-titanium-ride/

https://www.bikerumor.com/2017/03/2...-incremental-improvements-make-awesome-rides/

The Dream:

https://shop.litespeed.com/collections/titanium-road/products/2017-litespeed-t1sl

https://shop.litespeed.com/collections/titanium-road/products/litespeed-t1sl-disc

2016 Buyer's Guide: Litespeed T1sl | Bicycling
 
#14 ·
More I read (and maybe that isn't such a good thing) I'm leaning more and more to the following.

If electronic: SRAM not enough to sound off and be able to verify the the why with this educated crowd. Just my leaning for now.

Mechanical: If Shimano I'm really headed Ultegra. I do realize net warriors and only those with complaints tend to get on the soap box. But I don't race with anyone but myself. I'm a big SRAM fan in the mtb world. Need to ride a Red mechanical for a bit to feel it.

Never had Campy on the radar and it's harsh enough with SHIMANO and SRAM.

I've learned road bike needs a front D....if not ineould be SRAM as an easy decision. Ugh. Shouldn't feel tbis way....should be pure elation not frustration.
 
#16 ·
Brother why wouldn't you go T1 SL DISC?
I was looking at the kish Ti prices and they are about the same.
I am a huge fan of titanium. I was thinking about building another T1SL disc. I have the 2015 frame. I will post a pic at the end.
You said life is good but a budget will be helpful. How much are you looking at? What are your weight targets.
When I built mine my target was sub 16lbs bike. I manage 15.8lbs with a Ti seat post.
I went sram red, force, DA and ultegra. ALL OVER!
Cassette and chain are ultegra for durability.
Shifters and rear derailleur force. 30 grams less than Red bc the shifter paddles are carbon.
Front derailleur Red. Got it at force price. It is only 10gm less
Brakes DA. because I had them from before. Red has the lightest brakes but they are expensive when compared with DA.
Crankset Sram red. It is the lightest of them all. Except campy and the cannondale one(very expensive 800$)
When I built mine I gathered all the weights of all component groups. I created a spread sheet with weights and prices.
At the end MY mix set up ended up weighting 4.02lbs. Understand bb30 red is 3.9lbs. GXP is more. DA 4.2-4.5 lbs don't remember and ultegra is over 5lbs.
My set up ended up being less weight than DA but still 0.1 lbs more over sram red.
DA Is not fragile. In my experience it losT tolerance over time and the shifting had more wiggle on the paddles. Some small piece broke off from the paddles.
Sram shifts feels more precise at the shifters.
This was my setup. In enjoy doing stuff like this with the aim to maximize the practicality and cost effectiveness of a project. But that is me. I wouldn't do ultegra group. It is too heavy and for the price is not worth it.
In terms of weight from lightest to heaviest. Is RED, DA, Force, ultegra. Trick is in force the weight comes mainly from the crankset. The rest is at max 150 grams when all the components are added.
Go Force all around except for the crankset. Go sram red in the crankset and ultegra chain and cassette. The ultegra cassette if I recall correctly was about 60 grams heavier than DA but it last twice longer.
I can send you the spread sheet if you are interested. Although weights are old from 2016 groups.




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#15 ·
Kiwi...i follow what your saying. For Me, I have a very trusted wheel builder in CO. MIKE CURIAK. 4 sets from him and he has been aces. Think Clyde on some serious downhill on 29er csrbon. 2 years and that set still true. I really punish those rims. I go to him and I've learned to do what he says.

I will also look to Hope for headset, pedals (I roll flats) and anything else I can. If not Chris King. I know my post sounds pretty snotty but the intention is the best bike I can build...at least in my mind. :)
 
#19 ·
The excel sheet is in the laptop. I will have to email it to me and then post it. I will later today. Here are the pics of the ride. 15.8lbs as you see it.
If I were to replace the seatpost with a carbon one I would save maybe 100-150 grams depending on the seat post.
And I will prob go tubeless which would save me 160-180 by removing the tubes.
As it is is pretty light.
About etap. I love it but they are having problems with the batteries cracking and falling off the bike.
Sram is aware. I still love the system but it needs more tweaking. Up to you.
Get a BB30 bike if you haven't got it yet. It will be stiffer although I'm 195-200lbs and for me that is important.







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#20 ·
That is one beautiful ride my man. I can see why your pushing it. Pretty damn light as well. I'm still looking E Tap but you never know I could always end up Ultegra and go the easy and less expensive route. I'm happy with Ultegra on my Domane.
 
#22 ·
Thanks. It was thought out. Regarding the spread sheet I went with the 4.26lbs group.
It is a mix but I worked with what I had and if it was worth to change a component or not.
I'm still using my DA 7900 brake calipers.
The cassette is another thing. But ultegra cassette lasts a lot longer.



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#24 ·
Late to this thread, but feel the need to jump in. Having had bikes with both Ultegra and Dura Ace, can't help but recommend Ultegra, take the savings and get a top line set of wheels, functionally you won't notice a difference, when you're riding you can't see the dura ace motifs anyway.
 
#25 ·
Your first ride is amazing. My taste would be a carbon seat post. IMHO that ride is absolutely awesome. Helix doesn't do it for me. What do you plan to use it for?

I'll sell you a 56 Santa Cruz (Carbon) Stigmata....:thumbsup: Cheap!! Maybe you need a CX ride.
 
#27 ·
As for components, I would never advocate for electronic shifting for the recreational cyclist. If you're competing in the Tour de France, then fine....maybe it adds something to your ride. But to me, the concept of something on a bicycle that requires batteries to work is inherently absurd.

As for handlebars, that's like asking what kind of underwear people like to wear. It's a personal thing. I use Ritchey Biomax bars but you might absolutely hate them.
 
#28 ·
Hey brotha, I appreciate your post and your thoughts. I certainly won't say your wrong. You have valid points. Couple thoughts of my own:

I posted up to get a lot of views. And I've gotten them. They do mean something.

As far as the "never" well I never do NEVER. Just don't see that as a solution. On your logic I need to trade in my F150 because I use it to travel to the MTS and long road trips with my kids...it is after all, a "work" truck. I'm not breaking your ball too bad cause you have relevancy. But that thought process would have us non-Pro sitting on anything 1k and under in the bike world.

Trek/Spec/Campy/Giant etc do NOT sponsor racers to win races as an end result. They sponsor rider to sell product. This is akin to you non pro don't need carbon when AL will suite you just fine. Where would the tech be if that were a rule followed by all?

Just my thoughts.

As it stands I haven't decided yet. But some places are looking for a hefty price for Ultegra 8. Sure changes the game from the $600 Ultegra 6800 of earlier this year.

I get that handlebars are person specific -- probably more than underwear. BUT the big hey dude is that your post is a little stifling and I'm here to learn and to get info from others. I said that my Bontrager bars were to flexy but after grabbing ZIPP SL 80 (awesome reviews) I see my hands don't like the harshness of the ZIPP. I learned.

This site helps me get ideas, thoughts, and sometimes kicks me in the ass for a off base thought. Example; your Biomax bars I can assure you I would never have heard of or payed attention if it weren't for this post.
 
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