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  1. #101
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    @Migen21: would be very interested in side-view photos of your bike, as I plan to Change the Ultegra crankset and install a DURA ACE crank. But I am not sure if to take the "old" crank, which I think you have on your bike... or if I should take the R9100 crank, which requires me to Change the Ultegra FD as well. Seems the "old" Dura ace cranks look quite good on the black bike, which I did not expect to do :-)

  2. #102
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    Thes are the best shots I can give you of the drive side crank (until the weather improves)- it's the Dura Ace 9000 crankset. Rear Derailleur is the Ultegra 6870 GS - 11-32 6800 Cassette




  3. #103
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    RM01 overweight

    Just for info: Unfortunately, the red RM01 Frame is overweight. 1115 grams whitout any small parts (54) instead of 920 gram (Official statement of BMC). I am a bit disappointed.
    BMC says it is because of the paint Job and they have manufacturing tolerances of +-10%

    What do you think about that?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails BMC Roadmachine!-img234.jpg  

  4. #104
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    I love the looks and concept of this bike, but at North of 1100 grams, it is beginning to sound more like a gravel crusher than quiver killer. Still, a very, VERY nice looking ride with great early feedback.

  5. #105
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    Any comments on the Standard saddle of the RM01 (FIZIK aliante R5)? I know it depends on personal preferences, but I would be interested in Feedback. I think I will Change mine for a 1991 Flite Carbon Evolution saddle, which I ride for over 25 years now ;-). Just thinking if I should try the Fizik, or if I should Switch to the Flite from the beginning. IMO the Flite would shave off some grams, as it is only 150gr....

  6. #106
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    Made some changes. Got rid of the Enve 4.5ARs because I was done fighting to get tires on/off them. Replaced them with the new Zipp 303 tubeless FC disc wheels. Running 30mm Schwalbe S-One tires, and the bike is SMOOTH. Replaced the DA 9070 FD/RD with 9170, but I'm keeping the DA 9000 cranks. Saw a DA 9100 crank that was pretty scratched up, so that was the end of that. Just waiting on the DA 9170 shifters to become available, and I think I'll be set.

    Also, it took a bit of effort, but I managed to run all the E-tube wiring inside my 3T Ergonova bars using the bar-end junction box. Cockpit area is nice and tidy, without a junction box hanging off the bottom of the stem.

    Is it spring, yet? Zwift has been great, but I'm kinda over the trainer...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails BMC Roadmachine!-img_5407.jpg  

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by boogermin View Post
    Made some changes. Got rid of the Enve 4.5ARs because I was done fighting to get tires on/off them. Replaced them with the new Zipp 303 tubeless FC disc wheels. Running 30mm Schwalbe S-One tires, and the bike is SMOOTH. Replaced the DA 9070 FD/RD with 9170, but I'm keeping the DA 9000 cranks. Saw a DA 9100 crank that was pretty scratched up, so that was the end of that. Just waiting on the DA 9170 shifters to become available, and I think I'll be set.

    Also, it took a bit of effort, but I managed to run all the E-tube wiring inside my 3T Ergonova bars using the bar-end junction box. Cockpit area is nice and tidy, without a junction box hanging off the bottom of the stem.

    Is it spring, yet? Zwift has been great, but I'm kinda over the trainer...
    Wow it looks very clean but I would prefer black crankset. I think that this "Old" DA 9000 crankset looks fine on white frame but Here I would switch to black DA 9100. But it's personal preference .

    Was the tire change the only problem with your Enve 4.5 disc? Could you please compare enves and zipp 303 in terms of feel, stiffness, responsiveness in descend and aero drag?

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rasto View Post
    Wow it looks very clean but I would prefer black crankset. I think that this "Old" DA 9000 crankset looks fine on white frame but Here I would switch to black DA 9100. But it's personal preference .

    Was the tire change the only problem with your Enve 4.5 disc? Could you please compare enves and zipp 303 in terms of feel, stiffness, responsiveness in descend and aero drag?
    @rasto: The only reason I changed the wheelset was due to me having difficulty changing tires. I didn't want to be in a situation where I'm out for a ride, get a flat, but can't change tires due to the rim. In terms of feel, I think they're very comparable wheels in terms of stiffness. If anything, the 4.5ARs might be marginally better in x-winds, but obviously that's a qualitative statement.

    The only thing I miss from the Enve wheels are the Chris King R45 center lock hubs. Was never a fan of Zipp hubs and 6-bolt rotor mounts, but thus far everything's working out well.

  9. #109
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    I agree - those wheels (AR4.5 Disc) are obnoxious - I returned a set due to not being able to address flats in the field. Even with levers, and under ideal conditions in a bike shop, it's a nightmare - I was seriously worried about damaging the rim flange. Trying to remove/replace a tire on those wheels under less than ideal conditions (cold, wet, dark, dirty/greasy hands, etc...) - it's not even worth considering.

    I posted about my experience with the at the time over in the wheels and tires forum.

    Enve opted to go with 'must be tubeless only - no folding clincher tires'.
    https://enve.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/ar...earance-Notice


    And, the AR 4.5 AR Disc is a non-ETRTO standard wheel. Although, Enve is actively petitioning to get the standard changed
    https://enve.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/ar...ETRTO-Standard

    Let's hope that petition fails, the last thing we need are varying wheel/tire standards when trying to figure out which tire works with which wheel. Especially now with Tubeless tires becoming more common and popular. IF this happens, I expect a lot of 'will it fit, or won't it' threads in Wheels and Tires about this topic.

    I ended up with a standard (literally) set of Enve 3.4 SES Discs on my Roadmachine (lots of pics in this thread). Tire mounting, both tubes and tubeless has been a non-issue - no tools needed for Schwalbe G-One Speed (tubeless) and Continental 4 Seasons (with tubes obviously).
    Last edited by Migen21; 03-28-2017 at 06:19 AM.

  10. #110
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    Thank you guys for useful information. I still haven't decided which wheels to get. Initially I wanted to upgrade my RM01 with the proven zipp 303 (tubeless) but after specialized announced the new roval clx 50 I started to lean toward them. 200+ gr. weight saving over zipp 303 sounds very interesting for me and first ride reviews look good so far.

  11. #111
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    Awaiting my Rm01 Mexico blue build. Going with the new sram red etap hydro groupset and enve 3.4 disc wheelset. Still going to be a month waiting on sram goodness. Trying to keep my mind occupied reading forums while I wait...

    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

  12. #112
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    I am Frank from Germany and I have ordered a framekit of RM01 in team-black. My plan is to make a setup with complete Dura Ace 9170.

    All parts are already in house but last week my local dealer sent a message hat Shimano cannot deliver the hydraulic brake components of the new Dura Ace brake components before July.

    What about your information status in this matter in United States?

    Are you waiting too or do you have other info reg. delivery-status?

    Thankīs for your comments and best regards from Germany.

  13. #113
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    Waiting for new dura ace components in July is one of the reasons I ultimately choose the new sram etap setup which I should get in the next two weeks.

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  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by garaventa View Post
    I am Frank from Germany and I have ordered a framekit of RM01 in team-black. My plan is to make a setup with complete Dura Ace 9170.

    All parts are already in house but last week my local dealer sent a message hat Shimano cannot deliver the hydraulic brake components of the new Dura Ace brake components before July.

    What about your information status in this matter in United States?


    Are you waiting too or do you have other info reg. delivery-status?

    Thankīs for your comments and best regards from Germany.
    My shop is being told July for some of the new DA stuff as well. Specifically the cranks and derailleurs.

    I didn't want to wait for Shimano to get off their asses, so I built my RM-01 back in Nov using DA9000 crank, 9070 shifters, and Utegra 6870 derailleurs (I wanted the 11-32 compatibility in back anyway).

  15. #115
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    I rode my RM01 Di2 for about 1000Km during the last 6 weeks. I am totally happy with this bike! Despite the fact that it is really heavy (7,9kg including pedals and Cages) there is a slightly Migration of the seatpost. My local shop recommended not to use the full 5NM, which were suggested by BMC. They told me to Keep torque below. What I will do is dissassemble the post and put some "Finish line - fiber grip" on it. At the Moment I did torque to 4NM and there is some slightly movement ... which is about 1 or 2 mm over a distance of 200km... Does anyone else have recommendations for carbon /seatpost mounting liquids / gels? e.g. Muc off Carbon gripper?

  16. #116
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    I would suggest to go for the Standard 805 Brakes &785STI Levers. I own both and they are superb. For sure there is a reason that shimano is in backlog with the parts (Quality issue?)But dealing a lot with japanese sales People I can confirm, that Japan People will not sell a product which is 99,9%.... if it is not 100%,then you will not find it on the market! If your Intention to buy dura ace is to get a light bike, Forget it ;-).... the RM01 will not be a light bike in any way. But doīnt worry... thatīs no Problem! It is an outstanding bike! Greets fromGermany!
    PS: in my opinion Shimano has the best disc - Brakes (and that is why I Chose the roadmachine) - therefore SRAM is not a solution for me.

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by garaventa View Post
    I am Frank from Germany and I have ordered a framekit of RM01 in team-black. My plan is to make a setup with complete Dura Ace 9170.

    All parts are already in house but last week my local dealer sent a message hat Shimano cannot deliver the hydraulic brake components of the new Dura Ace brake components before July.

    What about your information status in this matter in United States?

    Are you waiting too or do you have other info reg. delivery-status?

    Thankīs for your comments and best regards from Germany.
    Hi Frank! I also plan to upgrade my stock RM01 ultegra with dura-ace 9170. I understand your frustration because I'm in similar situation, just waiting and waiting but 9170 is still out of sight . At least I have my original setup with rs685 shifters so I can ride my RM...

    Quote Originally Posted by cannondaleCAD3 View Post
    the RM01 will not be a light bike in any way
    I agree that RM01 is not superlight bike but for me 7-7,2kg is still very decent weight for a road bike and with RM01 frameset and careful choice of parts this weight is achievable without compromising stiffness and/or durability.

  18. #118
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    I thought I posted this in this thread previously.

    I'm 6' 5" (195cm) and 220lb (91kg), so the slipping seatpost was going to be a concern for me.

    However, following these steps seems to have stopped the creeping for me. At least for the last six or seven rides over 500+ miles.


    • Remove the seatpost from the bike and clean it thoroughly with something that will remove any grease or oil residue that might have contaminated it during installation.


    • Carefully remove the wedge clamp from the inside of the seat tube. Be careful you don't drop it into the seat tube, as it could be a hassle to get back out.


    • Clean the inside of the seat tube the same way, to remove any kind of contamination that may be acting as a lubricant. Get as far down inside as you can and be sure to clean the area where you removed the wedge clamp.


    • Loosen the wedge clamp screw completely, and use your fingers to work some grease down into the gap where the wedge plate faces meet. You might have to work the clamp screw up and down to get the grease spread thoroughly. The idea is to lubricate the sliding faces of the wedge clamp so they don't bind when you tighten it. Note that the wedge clamp screw is captured, and shouldn't be removed - don't take the clamp apart, just wedge grease into the mating surfaces from the outside as thoroughly as you can.



    • Reinstall the seat post to the correct height, and torque to manufacturer specs. The, with the bike secured (someone holding it or in a stand), grab front and rear of the seat with both hands and give it a strong firm twist back and forth several times. You may hear a light click or thud sound if the wedge clamp was bound. Reapply the manufacturers recommended torque (don't loosen the screw) and repeat this process until you are certain the clamp is not bound and is fully seated against the seatpost.


    • Take it for a long ride, and monitor for slipping - I use a wrap of colored vinyl tape on the seatpost just above the seat tube to make it easy to see. After the first ride, re-torque to manufacturer spec (without loosening). This should ensure that the seat clamp wedge is fully tightened against the seatpost.



    • If you loosen the seatpost to make an adjustment, repeat the torque/twist/retorqe process to ensure you get the wedge clamp fully seated against the seatpost without binding.



    I did this a couple of months ago and have no had any slipping problems since then.
    Last edited by Migen21; 05-04-2017 at 08:11 AM.

  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by Migen21 View Post
    I thought I posted this in this thread previously.

    I'm 6' 5" (195cm) and 220lb (91kg), so the slipping seatpost was going to be a concern for me.

    However, following these steps seems to have stopped the creeping for me. At least for the last six or seven rides over 500+ miles.


    • Remove the seatpost from the bike and clean it thoroughly with something that will remove any grease or oil residue that might have contaminated it during installation.


    • Carefully remove the wedge clamp from the inside of the seat tube. Be careful you don't drop it into the seat tube, as it could be a hassle to get back out.


    • Clean the inside of the seat tube the same way, to remove any kind of contamination that may be acting as a lubricant. Get as far down inside as you can and be sure to clean the area where you removed the wedge clamp.


    • Loosen the wedge clamp screw completely, and use your fingers to work some grease down into the gap where the wedge plate faces meet. You might have to work the clamp screw up and down to get the grease spread thoroughly. The idea is to lubricate the sliding faces of the wedge clamp so they don't bind when you tighten it. Note that the wedge clamp screw is captured, and shouldn't be removed - don't take the clamp apart, just wedge grease into the mating surfaces from the outside as thoroughly as you can.



    • Reinstall the seat post to the correct height, and torque to manufacturer specs. The, with the bike secured (someone holding it or in a stand), grab front and rear of the seat with both hands and give it a strong firm twist back and forth several times. You may hear a light click or thud sound if the wedge clamp was bound. Reapply the manufacturers recommended torque (don't loosen the screw) and repeat this process until you are certain the clamp is not bound and is fully seated against the seatpost.


    • Take it for a long ride, and monitor for slipping - I use a wrap of colored vinyl tape on the seatpost just above the seat tube to make it easy to see. After the first ride, re-torque to manufacturer spec (without loosening). This should ensure that the seat clamp wedge is fully tightened against the seatpost.



    • If you loosen the seatpost to make an adjustment, repeat the torque/twist/retorqe process to ensure you get the wedge clamp fully seated against the seatpost without binding.



    I did this a couple of months ago and have no had any slipping problems since then.
    Pickup tomorrow!

    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by ribbij View Post
    Pickup tomorrow!

    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

  21. #121
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    Hi,

    what frame size is it?

    I estimate it is 52cm??

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by garaventa View Post
    Hi,

    what frame size is it?

    I estimate it is 52cm??
    54

    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

  23. #123
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    Anyone have measured weight of RM02 ultegra, stock 56?

  24. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhmc03 View Post
    Anyone have measured weight of RM02 ultegra, stock 56?
    Anyone?

  25. #125
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    dhmc03: I canīt answer your question but my stock RM01 ultegra 56 cm was 8.8 kg so RM02 probably will be similar weight maybe a bit heavier.

    Anyway, I just upgraded my bike with roval clx 50 disc wheelset which I now run tubeless. Together with change of saddle it reducet the weight by almost 1kg. So now it weights 7,94 kg. Itīs stoll heavy compared to regular high-end road bike but this is just the beginning . So will see if I can get it to my target weight of 7-7.2
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails BMC Roadmachine!-20170516_072107.jpg   BMC Roadmachine!-20170516_185145.jpg  
    Last edited by Rasto; 05-18-2017 at 04:02 AM.

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