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  1. #1
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    Campagnolo Power Torque crank (Veloce, Centaur, Athena) creak/click? Read on

    Edit: Wazgilbert posted some useful information about the "short" wave washer here which undermines my argument quite a lot. I thought there was a "bad batch" of wave washers out there causing low preload and hence a tendency to click/creak. I thought I had enough evidence to make it worth writing this post. But Wazgilbert's measurements seem to show that I'm wrong. So I don't know what's going on. You might want to ignore much of what's said below since I now have no constructive suggestions. Wazgilbert is going to measure a few other washers, I will update this post again if he comes up with any new information. Sorry if I've wasted anyone's time or money.



    If you bought a Campagnolo Power Torque crankset in 2012 you may have a defective wave washer which may cause it to creak or click under load (eg while pedalling out of the saddle). You can read the full thread here, but it's very long and has an unhelpful title. This posting is just a simplification to warn you.

    This thread is not about Ultra Torque cranks. It is only about Power Torque which in 2012 is used on Veloce, Centaur & Athena. Earlier versions of Veloce, Centaur and Athena (pre-2010 IIRC) used Ultra Torque.

    What is the noise?

    A creak or click once per pedal revolution when the crank is under load, eg when climbing out of the saddle. Creaks and clicks have lots of sources, your click could be an indicator of a different problem, you should check out alternatives (pedals, headset, quick releases, etc) before reading further.

    With the "Power Torque click", in my case, removing the crank, adding more grease to the bearings and cups, and replacing the crank will silence the click for tens of miles. Then it comes back.

    What is the cause?

    I believe that the problem is caused by a weak "wave washer" which provides the "preload". Other posters on these forums agree. The preload stops the crank moving from side to side when you pedal. The wave washer is the big spring like thing which fits between the left hand crank arm and the bearing in its cup. If this wave washer is too weak, the crank moves from side to side, especially when you are pedalling out of the saddle. This side to side movement gradually pushes the grease out, and the click begins as the un-lubricated parts rub together.

    I believe Campagnolo changed the design of the wave washer in spring 2012 (I am not sure of the dates). I believe the "old, good" wave washer was about 5 mm high, and very strong. If you squeezed it between thumb and forefinger, you would hardly be able to move it. The "new, bad" wave washer is about 10 mm high, a bronze colour, and is so weak, you can squeeze it quite flat between thumb and forefinger. I have put photos of the "old" and "new" wave washers at the bottom. The "old, good" is on the blue frame, the one in the guy's hand, with the Campagnolo logo at the top. The "new, bad" washer is on the black frame (my bike).

    I have spent 3 months (and counting) trying to get Campag's UK representative to believe me that the wave washers are bad. I still don't have a resolution, but Italy is now involved so there is hope.

    I am not just making stuff up. Campag Italy gave me the production specification on the wave washer. The specification says it is supposed to take 17 kg to squash it flat. My wave washers take about 5 kg to squash flat - they are much, much weaker than the specification. You can read the big thread if you want more details of my diagnosis.

    How do you find out if you are affected?

    I would guess that if you bought your crank in 2010 or 2011 you are not affected.

    The most reliable way is to pull the crank arm off (good luck with that*) and take a look.

    If you don't want to do that, a simple but maybe less reliable way is to put both your thumbs on the big crank bolt on the left hand side. Wrap your fingers around the chainstay and the down tube, and push with both thumbs quite hard. If the crank moves a tiny bit (a fraction of a millimeter) sideways, you may have a "new, bad" wave washer. You may also hear a distinct crunch/click when you do this. When you release the pressure, the crank may spring back, or it may "stick" until you pull it back by hand, or turn the pedals.

    I expect that if you have the "old, good" wave washer you will not be able to move the crank with your thumbs. But you might be able to move it if you exert more force, for example by squeezing the crank arm and the chain stay with your fist. It's not whether you can move the crank that matters, it's how much force it takes. Thumb pressure is less force than squeezing the chain stay.

    How many people are affected?

    I have no idea. I have found 2 or 3 on the Internet who might be affected. Plus me. The problem seemed to surface in summer 2012. Some people may have "new, bad" wave washers but a silent crank - for some people the preload from the "new, bad" wave washer might be adequate.

    The Campagnolo UK guy bought some wave washers at retail in late September 2012 and they were still the "new, bad" kind. So I suspect that all the washers in retail are "new, bad" ones, in the UK at least.

    What can you do?

    If your crank is silent, don't worry

    If you get a click or creak, check out all the other possibilities first, there are some good troubleshooting guides on the Web.

    If you were planning to buy a Power Torque crank, maybe you should hold off until this is sorted. Power Torque is a really bad system IMHO*, I would suggest you think hard before buying it.

    If you bought Power Torque in 2012, you have a click or creak once per pedal rev when out of the saddle, and you are sure the crank is the cause....
    - please post on here
    - contact your Campag service rep. If you are in the UK that is Velotech, Google 'em. Velotech is aware I have a click/creak, but for some reason Velotech is still trying to blame my frame, even though Velotech has actually measured that the wave washers clearly do not meet the Campag specification. (no, I don't understand either)
    - what you want is an "old, good" wave washer, about 5 mm tall, probably from 2011 stock. Your LBS may have one? Or your Campag rep?

    Maybe I am making this all up. Maybe the wave washers are fine. YMMV. But I thought it was worth posting to inform you, if you are suffering the same problems as me.

    * Power Torque IMHO is not great. Installing the crank is really easy. Removing it is really difficult. You need a special "puller" to do it. The Campag recommended one is really expensive. You can buy a cheaper one, but it might require "modification" with a file or Dremel. Even then IMHO there is a good chance you will scratch the cranks. Particularly with carbon cranks. It's nasty. By contrast Campy's Ultra Torque system looks really nice, though I have not used it. One simple bolt and the thing just falls apart.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Campagnolo Power Torque crank (Veloce, Centaur, Athena) creak/click? Read on-bad-washer.jpg  
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by CheapSkate; 11-10-2012 at 08:56 AM. Reason: New information

  2. #2
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    Sorry to hear about your un-ending problems! I have to say my 2011 PT Veloce compact crankset has performed flawlessly so far as regards the bottom bracket area. The only issue I have felt is I can feel some flex in the crankset when pushing down hard on steep hills. I am hoping this flex will be reduced with the new ultra light hollow alloy cranks Campy is coming out with for 2013. I will just re-use my 2011 bb parts after I read about your unfortunate experiences!

  3. #3
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    Hi masi85. Thanks for your post & glad it's OK for you. Can you tell me....
    - approximately when did you buy your cranks & cups?
    - approximately how much pressure to move the crank side to side? See my "2 thumb" test and the "chain stay squeeze" test described above
    thanks

  4. #4
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    Revised dates?

    I've revised my "new, bad" washer introduction date back to August 2011. I found a photo of the "new, bad" washer from August 2011.

  5. #5
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    Veloce 2011 group was purchased 22-11-2010 from Shinybikes. When I press on the left side crank either at the fixing bolt or squeezing the arm against the chainstay I get no noticable movement. However, when I then pull back on the left arm I hear a click. I have never noticed any clicks when I ride the bike though!

  6. #6
    cs1
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    This was also a problem on the Ultra Torque.
    Wavewasherectomy - The Ultra-Torque Fix - RogueMechanic
    1995 Waterford 1200
    1999 Waterford RSE-11
    Plus a host of old bikes too many to list.

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  8. #8
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    not really...

    Quote Originally Posted by cs1 View Post
    This was also a problem on the Ultra Torque.
    Wavewasherectomy - The Ultra-Torque Fix - RogueMechanic
    This is an example of an inability to determine the real problem and fix it properly. Instead you get a ridiculous solution that requires multiple reassemblies of the crank and leaves the bearings either too tight or too loose.

    Most UT cranks work fine. If one doesn't, there's bound to be an explanation, but it may require precision measuring equipment that the average person doesn't have access to. Quite often, a crank is improperly installed and the bearings and/or cups are trashed after weeks or months of abuse, but rather that replace the worn out parts and reinstall correctly, shims are used in an effort to correct the problem.

  9. #9
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    I have the power torque bb with a veloce crank with that problem. I bought it last winter, and haven't addressed it yet, other than putting another crank on the bike.
    HTFU for 2008

  10. #10
    39x21
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    For what it's worth, I have had two Veloce Power Torque (2011 and 2012) cranks develop creaks in the past year. After weeks of insanity-inducing trial and error to remedy the situation, I finally realised that it was the crank bolts that were responsible.

    In both cases the chainrings came factory installed with ungreased bolts - removing, greasing and re-torquing them removed the problem in both instances.
    dulce et decorum est pro velo mori

  11. #11
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    Yep I had the creaking crank bolts too, so I initially had two creaks. Even after lubing the crank bolts (and even swapping the chainrings and bolts) my other creak persisted.
    Thanks

  12. #12
    39x21
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    Quote Originally Posted by CheapSkate View Post
    Yep I had the creaking crank bolts too, so I initially had two creaks. Even after lubing the crank bolts (and even swapping the chainrings and bolts) my other creak persisted.
    Thanks
    Bugger. Sorry to hear you've had such a stubborn problem.
    dulce et decorum est pro velo mori

  13. #13
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    updated the other thread with a new spare part from Campy btw.
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  14. #14
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    I've got a new Athena carbon Power torque, I've got the click on the crank, drive side and it's all the time. It's a deep clicking, almost like a knocking sound. Hate it! It's my dream bike, Bianchi Infinito with full campy groupo, dreamed and saved for a year, and now it sounds like a Walmart bike. 1st experience with campy and it's frustrating.

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    Hi, is your click once per rotation of the pedals, or a few times per rotation?

    I was able to identify an unrelated click on a freshly assembled drivetrain, by having it mounted in a turbo trainer and rotating the cranks by hand. It turned out that it only happened in certain gears on the cassette and was more than one click per revolution.

    I hadn't torqued the lockring up enough, and by adding a few more lbs of force into the locking of the cassette - click gone.

    it was driving me bonkers, as I had a completely new drivetrain, and I was worrying that this thread's power-torque specific woes were my issue. It wasn't and now I'm happy to say, I'm relaxing into it.

    Good luck.
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  16. #16
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    Once per revolution, at the apex and into the down stroke

  17. #17
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    Also, this group was installed at the shop, not by Bianchi. I had at least 200 miles or so on the group and bike before it appeared, but I'm less than 1000 for sure.

  18. #18
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    I installed mine myself and ran it for about 40 miles on the turbo trainer, before heading out on the road. I found the cassette clicks, fixed that and have got about 60miles done without other issues, I'll look out for anything new as the miles rack up.
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  19. #19
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    My modified puller


  20. #20
    cs1
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    So what is the verdict? If Campy cranks are so bad what do we use?
    1995 Waterford 1200
    1999 Waterford RSE-11
    Plus a host of old bikes too many to list.

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