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Thread: Torque Spec

  1. #1
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    Torque Spec

    For self extracting crank bolt. Do you have or use one or just get it "tight"?

  2. #2
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    Shimano crank bolts are spec'd at 305-391 inch-pounds. The Shimano cap which the self-extracting pushes against for release, is 44-60 inch pounds.

    If you're thinking self-extracting bolts run a different spec than standard bolts; no difference.

  3. #3
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    I'm thinking torque spec are based on Fastener size and material, which may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, model to model.
    Which I dead mean but failed to mention, early C Record.

  4. #4
    tka
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    32-38 Nm if memory serves me right.

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    I have 312-324 in lbs from Park Tool, 32-38Nms from Campy.

  6. #6
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    Grease or dry on the tapers of the BB spindle?
    Too old to ride plastic

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    I've been debating that myself.

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    I've always used grease.

    With my torque-sensitive hands I tighten to "pretty damn tight" with a hex key, then go for a ride, and then check tightness again.

    C Record is the same thread on the bolt, just the head is smaller. So torque would be the same as with other Campy square taper cranks.
    We just don’t realize the most significant moments of our lives when they’re happening
    Back then I thought “well there'll be other days”
    I didn’t realize that was the only day
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9yrupye7B0

    There's sometimes a buggy.
    How many drivers does a buggy have?
    One.
    So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
    and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM

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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerjulio View Post
    I've always used grease.

    With my torque-sensitive hands I tighten to "pretty damn tight" with a hex key, then go for a ride, and then check tightness again.

    C Record is the same thread on the bolt, just the head is smaller. So torque would be the same as with other Campy square taper cranks.
    I do dry, but to pretty much the same torque specs as you.
    Too old to ride plastic

  10. #10
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    Pretty sure Campy calls for dry.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by GKSki View Post
    Pretty sure Campy calls for dry.
    I think you are right. Just can't bring myself to do it.

    I believe the logic is that if you are doing crank swaps frequently, the lubrication will permit the crank to go on the taper marginally further, and therefore increase the "stretching" force on the crank, and decrease the number of times the crank can be installed without bottoming out.

    If one is doing a one-time, long term install then I still think grease is OK to prevent things freezing up.
    We just don’t realize the most significant moments of our lives when they’re happening
    Back then I thought “well there'll be other days”
    I didn’t realize that was the only day
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9yrupye7B0

    There's sometimes a buggy.
    How many drivers does a buggy have?
    One.
    So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
    and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerjulio View Post
    I think you are right. Just can't bring myself to do it.

    I believe the logic is that if you are doing crank swaps frequently, the lubrication will permit the crank to go on the taper marginally further, and therefore increase the "stretching" force on the crank, and decrease the number of times the crank can be installed without bottoming out.

    If one is doing a one-time, long term install then I still think grease is OK to prevent things freezing up.
    Years ago I used to grease the tapers, and I developed a creak I couldn't locate. A friend suggested I remount the crank arms dry, and when I did the creak was gone. I've been running them dry since.
    Too old to ride plastic

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