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2015 Cervelo S3

24K views 15 replies 12 participants last post by  Rajarajan 
#1 · (Edited)
I picked up a 2015 Cervelo S3 frame set 6 weeks ago and I thought I would post up my thoughts on it.

First, I got the frame as an upgrade to a 2009 S2. I thought that with the pencil thin seat stays that it might be a smoother ride in the rear end, and it is. I also got it because of the improved aerodynamics and stiffer bottom bracket. The front end however is super stiff with a lot of vibration. The head tube is big and beefy, but not any bigger than some of the new Treks and Giants. The fork blades however are BIG! I don't think Cervelo should have made the fork that stiff. I run an aluminum bar and stem (Ritchey WCS) and the S3 is way stiffer than the old S2. I now run 2 layers of LizardSkin tape (the thick one) and it helps cut down on the vibration. I will probably move to a carbon bar and stem in the future.

Second, I love how the S3 handles and accelerates. I also love the aerodynamics of the new frame. It's fast.

Third, I didn't want the component package that comes with the complete bike. I have always run Shimano components and I didn't want Rotor cranks. I like my Dura Ace 7900 cranks and wanted to keep them. They are super stiff and the Shimano chain rings are the best out there.

Lastly, Cervelo touts the S3 as a 700 x 25c compatible frame. I run 25c Continental 4000's and the new Ultegra 6800 low profile brakes. The brakes and the rear seat stay cutout are almost exactly the same size. On numerous occasions I have picked up a small rock with my tire and it got stuck in between the tire and the brake or between the tire and the frame. I may have to go back to 23c's as this has happened several times, especially on chip sealed roads in warm weather.

BDDBB
 
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#2 ·
I did the exact same thing. Moved from a 2009 S2 to a 2015 S3.

I built mine up with Di2, Zipp 303s, 3T carbon bars and run conti 4000 25mm.

The bars absolutely dampen any vibration and I have not any issues with the 25mm tires.

This bike is blistering fast and climbs like a goat.
 
#3 ·
I have not any issues with the 25mm tires.
I might want to move where you live, because here in Northern California there are a lot of chip sealed roads.
When the weather gets hot those rocks stick to your tires and then get stuck in the brakes/seat stay. Then I have to get off the bike and spin the backwards to get the rock out. Had to get off several times on Skaggs Road at the Terrible Two race a week ago.
 
#9 ·
I guess that I'll take the S3/S2 off my list. I really like a 25mm rear tire and will not compromise. These two Cervelo models are priced pretty well so its too bad they won't make the cut. Fortunately there are many others on the market now. I will be paying close attention to tire clearance. Thanks "pagey" for your comments and posts.
 
#10 ·
I have always run Shimano components and I didn't want Rotor cranks. I like my Dura Ace 7900 cranks and wanted to keep them. They are super stiff and the Shimano chain rings are the best out there.
BDDBB - What BB or BB adaptor are you using to accommodate your DA crankset? Thinking about getting an R3 and build up with my Ultegra Di2 group with Ultegra 6800 cranks, but can't decide on how to best solve the BBright / Shimano crank issue.

Z
 
#11 ·
I've not had a problem with 25mm on my bike. Admittedly though on my aero wheels with wide rims I went with 23mm to be well,more aero. But I find that the wide rims run the tire wider overall and I run less air pressure Bicycle tire Bicycle frame Bicycle wheel rim Bicycle fork Bicycle wheel


Feels just as cush as my 25's on 'regular' rims.
 
#12 ·
I've not had a problem with 25mm on my bike. Admittedly though on my aero wheels with wide rims I went with 23mm to be well,more aero. But I find that the wide rims run the tire wider overall and I run less air pressure

Feels just as cush as my 25's on 'regular' rims.
Same experience here, I've run 25mm GP4000S and Zipp Tangente Course on FC 404, 808 and Hed Jet 6 with zero issues.
 
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