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  1. #1
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    11-32 on a mid-compact

    this is temporary for me , but for the next 3 weeks i put on on an 11-32 cassette and a long cage r.d. anyone have a similar set-up. I'm not really loving but its necessary for the ride i'm doing.

    anyone doing this set-up? do you like it?

  2. #2
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trek_5200 View Post
    this is temporary for me , but for the next 3 weeks i put on on an 11-32 cassette and a long cage r.d. anyone have a similar set-up. I'm not really loving but its necessary for the ride i'm doing.

    anyone doing this set-up? do you like it?
    That the permanent drivetrain on my bike. If it works who cares?
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  3. #3
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    what is it that you don't love about it? The gear jump? the chain noise? what?

    Here's my general experience.

    the 11-32 can be a little annoying if all you ride is flatland. But on anything more than rolling terrain, and I'm not even talking about mountainous yet, then it's good, especially if you want to stay in the big ring more for those power push over a hill.

    However, I would hate to use a long cage derailleur on a road bike because it looks ugly and the chain can bounce a lot due to longer cage. Modern Shimano road midcage derailleur will easily accomodate a 32t or even a 36t depending on frame.

    Oh, and when you start to go to the 32t cassette, use the chain from the same manufacturer. Also, I have Shimano drivetrain, and one time I tried a 32t from Sram and the sound from the cassette was quite loud. Then I switched to a Shimano 32t and it was quieter!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by aclinjury View Post
    what is it that you don't love about it? The gear jump? the chain noise? what?

    Here's my general experience.

    the 11-32 can be a little annoying if all you ride is flatland. But on anything more than rolling terrain, and I'm not even talking about mountainous yet, then it's good, especially if you want to stay in the big ring more for those power push over a hill.

    However, I would hate to use a long cage derailleur on a road bike because it looks ugly and the chain can bounce a lot due to longer cage. Modern Shimano road midcage derailleur will easily accomodate a 32t or even a 36t depending on frame.

    Oh, and when you start to go to the 32t cassette, use the chain from the same manufacturer. Also, I have Shimano drivetrain, and one time I tried a 32t from Sram and the sound from the cassette was quite loud. Then I switched to a Shimano 32t and it was quieter!
    the gaps mostly, and the shifts feel a tad clunkier probably because i'm making larger moves

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trek_5200 View Post
    this is temporary for me , but for the next 3 weeks i put on on an 11-32 cassette and a long cage r.d. anyone have a similar set-up. I'm not really loving but its necessary for the ride i'm doing.

    anyone doing this set-up? do you like it?
    I have one bike (the Lynskey) that is set up with Campy 11-32 that I use as my "climbing" bike. Most of my riding is in flattish areas and so it gets ridden plenty of times where I don't need those low gears. Yes, the gaps are a bit bigger but its more a matter of not visiting the fat end of the cassette when the terrain is flat. I don't see a big downside

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    I've been running this setup (with Di2) exclusively on all of my bikes except my 1x gravel bike for quite a while. I didn't notice any significant difference in shift quality or smoothness from the previous 50/34 and 11-28 I had been running previously.

  7. #7
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    Do you really need a 50-11? On my gravel bike, I bought a 12-28 cassette and turned my 11-32 cassette into a 12-32.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by ogre View Post
    Do you really need a 50-11? On my gravel bike, I bought a 12-28 cassette and turned my 11-32 cassette into a 12-32.
    d

    He has a mid compact, so probably a 52? And yes you need a 50-11!
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    Mid-compact with 11-32 is the best of everything. It has a great climbing gear and you still have plenty of top end for those 2-3% grade downhills.

    Anywhere local for me I'll be riding with my 11-32 cassette but there is one cog that I miss having when its flat. I never bothered to look at which one but if I go somewhere knowing the ride is flat I'll put my 11-28 back on. It isn't a big deal either way.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by duriel View Post
    And yes you need a 50-11!
    How on earth could you possibly know enough about someone's riding to make that statement? 50/11 is 35 mph at 100 rpm. If you're going that fast downhill you would be faster in a tight tuck. If you can go that fast on the flats then you shouldn't be posting here but rather racing at the top professional level.

    There are actually people who know how to spin and who have absolutely no use for a 50/11. Preposterously absolutist statements do not add to your credibility.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kerry Irons View Post
    50/11 is 35 mph at 100 rpm.
    Sorry, eat your heart out. I can put power down up to about 124.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by duriel View Post
    Sorry, eat your heart out. I can put power down up to about 124.
    Genuine question, I'm not trying to be snarky or negative:

    I understand your quote to say you can pedal for a reasonable distance, (you tell me what distance), in a 50/11 at 124 cadence? That's very impressive to me. Are you referring to level or a certain descent grade? I would guess that for me to hit the 100 plus in a sustained 50/11 I have to be going down a minimum of 5 percent grade and probably 7 percent or more is more reasonable--for sustained.

    Now I freely admit I have no doubt that you have way more power than I do and even greater functional power in your power to weight ration. I'm a 72-year-old man that weighs about 235 or so. I do, however, have the 70-74 age bracket Strava best time for a 4.6 mile descent on a very popular ride where I live. Heavy is good going downhill.

  13. #13
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    well turns out the bad shift performance was due to a bent r.d. hanger. no idea how that happened. suspect the bike shop but have a hard time they would not have noticed. anyway, it shifts largely similar to the old set-up. i'd say 98% as good.


    I did a local climb today max gradient 18% but because nothing was very long i never once used the two new lowest gears nor had to. longest climb was 3 miles but even that wasn't constant and had some easy sections.

  14. #14
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    I’m considering moving to that setup from a compact, but every once in a while I lean on that 34-32 ratio, and it’s nice to have. The more I ride, the less I rely upon that low gearing though.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trek_5200 View Post
    the gaps mostly, and the shifts feel a tad clunkier probably because i'm making larger moves
    I consider the gaps a non-issue. If I'm in a situation where I'm too fast for one gear and too slow for the next one, I tramp on the pedals or coast a bit. As I said, I consider gaps a non-issue. The 32T is an insurance policy. I may not need it for most of a ride, but when I want it, I have it. I like having it there for hilly rides.

    You do not need a long cage derailleur for a compact double and 11-32T cassette. A mid-cage derailleur works just fine with this combo.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    I consider the gaps a non-issue. If I'm in a situation where I'm too fast for one gear and too slow for the next one, I tramp on the pedals or coast a bit. As I said, I consider gaps a non-issue. The 32T is an insurance policy. I may not need it for most of a ride, but when I want it, I have it. I like having it there for hilly rides.

    You do not need a long cage derailleur for a compact double and 11-32T cassette. A mid-cage derailleur works just fine with this combo.
    i should restate this. Since the original posting i learned i had a bent rear derailleur hanger. The set-up is definitely smoother now. But there is a downside still. larger jumps mean you're not in the optimum gear necessarily. the jumps may not be large enough to matter to some but you wouldn't want just two speeds an 11 and a 32. There's a reason why pros if the course is flat will go 12-21, and on a hilly course choose 11-32

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by GlobalGuy View Post
    I understand your quote to say you can pedal for a reasonable distance, (you tell me what distance), in a 50/11 at 124 cadence? That's very impressive to me. Are you referring to level or a certain descent grade? I would guess that for me to hit the 100 plus in a sustained 50/11 I have to be going down a minimum of 5 percent grade and probably 7 percent or more is more reasonable--for sustained.
    In my case the gear ratio is determined by a ride I like to do, the segment is about 7 miles straight, in a pack, doing 28-32 mph. The 12 is just too high of cadence for me, I don't really need much power as I am only 'sitting in' mostly, I avoid the pull unless necessary for a very brief period to keep from disrupting the flow of the pack.
    50x11 @ 28 is cadence of 80.
    Now I also ride up & down a mountain outside my town, 12 miles of 7% (some sections much more, but twisty). Coming off the mountain on the straight sections, I'll turbo cadence up to 45-ish to keep the speed up at certain sections if I'm 'going'.
    I have no where near the HP to pull the 50x11 on flats, my top speed is about 33mph in a sprint.
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  18. #18
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    My main bike is a 50/34 with 11-28 which I thought was perfect gearing until I got a new bike that came with di2 52/36 and 11-32. I checked the gear inch calculator and the newer one actually has better top-end and low-end. I like it.
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  19. #19
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    I'll go back to 11-28 after this is done. There are very few situations that merit the 32 cog. Other than Rocacorba and Ventoux I never felt I did. But this ride could be added to that for sure. But its not just the 32 I don't think is usually needed. I don't get much out of the 11 either.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kerry Irons View Post
    50/11 is 35 mph at 100 rpm. If you're going that fast downhill you would be faster in a tight tuck. ...[snip]... Preposterously absolutist statements do not add to your credibility.

    LOL.

    Just... :::shakes head::: LOL.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trek_5200 View Post
    this is temporary for me , but for the next 3 weeks i put on on an 11-32 cassette and a long cage r.d. anyone have a similar set-up. I'm not really loving but its necessary for the ride i'm doing.

    anyone doing this set-up? do you like it?
    I am riding this in 2018 and liking it a lot. Initially I was scared when I read of shift lag (??) but that has not been an issue. The benefits however have been tangible. I can hammer in 28/34 no rub and slay more rollers in the big ring. If I'm out heaving my fat ass up Bear Mountain I stay 32 and spin. I don't ride enough group rides (read: any) to notice issues with gaps/pacing.
    "That pretty much sums it up. I'm 43 and my max is ~178-180. If that HR chart was mine or Froome's, we'd be on the verge of death. But for you it probably looks like a normal workout." -TLG

    LOLOLOL

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