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  1. #26
    coaster
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlg View Post
    Yup. That's what he's talking about. And it's quite large on road disc. At least the first models. I haven't tried the newer ones.
    On my bars, if I don't reduce the dead stroke, the levers hit the bars before full braking.

    This works good. I've developed undersized bleed blocks so you don't have to use shims.

    https://www.shapeways.com/product/A9...leed-block-5mm
    https://www.shapeways.com/product/NN...leed-block-1mm
    https://www.shapeways.com/product/QK...ed-block-1-5mm
    At my shop we have a few different brake blocks that have been ground down to different thicknesses and labeled. I reiterate though: Overfilling a brake (or advancing the pistons if you prefer) is a temporary adjustment that will disappear with pad wear. Also, you'll be reducing pad/rotor clearance which may result in some rubbing due to flex or temporary thermal warping.

    To address the people saying you need plenty of dead stroke for braking power: You're missunderstanding. At least on an MTB (and I guess on a road bike), most people have the best power and feel when their levers stop fairly close to the bar. How far they should move between pad contact and a firm stop is a matter of preference. Some people prefer Shimano's quicker, harder feel (it feels solid and I can keep my lever really close to the grip) while others prefer a longer, squishier feel (Sram, and even more Magura) that lets them more easily modulate the power. Regardless, very few people see an advantage to having the lever move much before the pads contact the rotor. On brakes with adjustable dead stroke (how far the master piston sits behind the bypass port) I've never seen someone adjust it to anything but minimal*.

    The reasons most people prefer minimal dead stroke are:
    1. It causes a delay from when you want to start braking (finger begins squeezing lever) and when you actually start braking (pads contact rotor)
    2. It requires the lever to start farther away from the bar for a given stop point. This might matter more to MTBers than roadies because of how we grip the bar and rest a finger on the lever and the forces acting on our hands. I don't mind having my finger fairly extended on my road bike but I'd find that tiring and it would reduce my control on my MTB.

    *For more info on this see the press releases for Hayes new brake. They discuss dead stroke in detail, explain their adjustment, why it's factory set individually, and why you shouldn't touch it.
    Last edited by Lelandjt; 1 Week Ago at 10:42 PM.

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlg View Post
    On my bars, if I don't reduce the dead stroke, the levers hit the bars before full braking.
    If this happens, they are obviously not set up right to start. Mine lock up close to the handlebars, but they will lock up. This is the way it should be.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

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  3. #28
    tlg
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    If this happens, they are obviously not set up right to start. Mine lock up close to the handlebars, but they will lock up. This is the way it should be.
    Nope. They're set up right.
    Custom Di2 & Garmin/GoPro mounts 2013 SuperSix EVO Hi-MOD Team * 2004 Klein Aura V

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