Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 36
  1. #1
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    8

    Anyone riding a 52/36 + 11-32 Cassette?

    Hey guys
    I have 52/36 with 11-28 cassette and was torn between which to replace to tackle some nasty hills here in Thailand .. Long story but I've got an 11-32 cassette and going to try it with the semi compact...
    Does anyone ride this? Is there much difference to an 11-28 in the middle cogs? I read changing gear from 28 into the 32 is a bit of a clunker?
    I could always get compact chainrings later when I've saved money (oval rings when i start laying diamonds) ... I'm new to cycling.. It seems I do need to start laying diamond eggs quite soon!

  2. #2
    tlg
    tlg is online now
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: tlg's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    9,450
    If you live in a hilly area, 52/36 doesn't make much sense.

    What drivetrain do you have? Need to know the capacity of your RD to know if you can run 52/36 + 11-32 . That's a 37T capacity. Which can technically be done with Shimano 11sp with GS RD.
    Custom Di2 & Garmin/GoPro mounts 2013 SuperSix EVO Hi-MOD Team * 2004 Klein Aura V

  3. #3
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Posts
    725
    I used to run 11-25 cassettes with a 53/39 standard crank. I ordered a 11-28 by mistake, but put in on. I found I liked it and have continued using this combination

    I should note that I started riding in the true 10 speed day where 2 and sometimes 3 tooth gaps were not uncommon. You just had to know when to make a double shift to get the right gear inches.

    The gaps have not bothered me

  4. #4
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by tlg View Post
    If you live in a hilly area, 52/36 doesn't make much sense.

    What drivetrain do you have? Need to know the capacity of your RD to know if you can run 52/36 + 11-32 . That's a 37T capacity. Which can technically be done with Shimano 11sp with GS RD.
    It was on the bike when I bought it secondhand, and I heard most new bikes are fitted with a semi-compact chainset? It's an 11-speed shimano 105 rear that I've swapped for a medium cage Ultegra derailleur to ensure clearance for the 32t rear cog

  5. #5
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    8
    Ok good to know the gaps haven't bothered you.. I think some gears in an 11-speed 11-28 are too close together in the middle.. having a bigger gap at the point I most need an earlier great could be very welcome to me!

  6. #6
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,020
    It's reasonable if you live in an area with steep hills but also long flats or gradual downhills (-1 to 2%). You should be fine with the Long-cage Ultegra RD. FWIW, SRAM makes an 11-32 that is more evenly spaced near the big end. The 28 to 32 is a big jump up or down, but as it's mainly a bail-out gear, maybe not a big deal. For long/steep climbs I'm currently running a 9100 RD with an 11-30 cassette. The 36x30 is a tiny bit lower than the 34-28 of a standard compact set-up, and I still have a higher top gear (52x11). All you "you don't need a 52x11 (or 53x11) unless you're a pro" types can save your breath. I use it, often. YMMV.
    Well, you know, that's just, like, your opinion man. - The Dude

  7. #7
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by OldChipper View Post
    It's reasonable if you live in an area with steep hills but also long flats or gradual downhills (-1 to 2%)... The 32 is.. mainly a bail-out gear, maybe not a big deal.
    I need that 32 on some climbs here!
    Quote Originally Posted by OldChipper View Post
    I still have a higher top gear (52x11)... I use it, often. YMMV.
    Yeah me too - even if for short bursts.
    Good to see you're experimenting a bit with gearing too, and that there are more options around. I might switch my front chain rings at some point to compact, but will see how this feels. I did think the gearing mid-cassette was too close together before, so fingers crossed
    Thanks

  8. #8
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    69
    I have exactly that combo, in 6800 Ultegra with GS RD, and it's great, for me anyway. I live in a hilly area but I use 52/11 every ride on flats/slight downhills as said above. I don't find the 28/32 gap to be an issue, as the 32 is like a get out of jail card and isn't used often - but is very welcome on the odd occasion it is needed.

  9. #9
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    620
    From Mike Sherman's Gear Calculator. (here's your 11-32 and 36-52 setup link.)

    11-32 and 36/52, at typical flat road cadences.


    With 34/50 chain rings:


    The 52 chainring is about .5 mph faster at 18 mph at the same cadence. So it's just moving all the shift points up about half of a shift.

    The 36/52 is kind of nice, I could stay in the small chainring up past 20 mph and have good shift points. (I would avoid the 36-11, but the 36-12 is okay to use.)


    The tradeoff is these wide range 11-32 cassettes have bigger gaps between shifts in the middle.

    For example, I'm always looking for close shifts in the 18 to 23 mph range, where I'm working hard to keep up with a fast-for-me group ride. If the gaps are large, like these 20-18-16 cogs, I'm always hunting for the best cadence, shifting up and down. But the 32 cog is great for longer steep climbs.

    Sram 11-28 and 34/50
    Compare to the Sram 11-28 (which has closer spacing in the smaller cogs than a Shimano 11-28). Those 17-16-15 cogs are much closer together at the 20-23 mph range. (Shimano 11-28 has close shifts in the 15-20 mph range instead of the 20-25 mph range.)

    Last edited by rm -rf; 2 Weeks Ago at 04:02 AM.

  10. #10
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: Lombard's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    3,983
    Quote Originally Posted by MarkOneToo View Post
    Ok good to know the gaps haven't bothered you.. I think some gears in an 11-speed 11-28 are too close together in the middle.. having a bigger gap at the point I most need an earlier great could be very welcome to me!
    Gaps on my 11-32T cassette didn't bother me when it was on a 9-speed cassette. They certainly don't bother me on an 11-speed cassette. The 32T cog becomes very welcome on steep hills. Try the 11-32T cassette with your existing 52/36 crankset and see if that helps. If you need more hill climbing help than that, you can go to a full compact 50/34, but it will cost you a lot more than the cassette did.
    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein

    "Beware of geeks bearing formulas."
    -- Warren Buffett

    "Education is what you get when you read the fine print. Experience is what you get when you don't. -- Pete Seeger



  11. #11
    CX'er
    Reputation: bikerector's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    851
    I use 36/52 with an mtb 11-32 (cog spacing favors bigger rear cogs vs closer gaps on smaller cogs) on my gravel race bike. I found it gives me a lot of range for grinding up some of the short, steep hills but still plenty of top end when we get out onto the pavement and especially when with a group and there's a tailwind.

    I'm rarely in the 52x11 and would have no problems with a 50t big ring but for some reason I never got on with a 34/50 chainset, 36/50 would be perfect with an 11-32 cassette IMO. Not sure why but the 34/50 always seemed to give me problems when approaching a cross-chain scenario with the chain rubbing the big ring but going to the big ring would result in a cross chain in the opposite. This was when I did a compact and 11-25 so the extra few bigger cassette cogs would probably fix that but I just haven't gone back to try honestly, haven't worn out the 36/52 rings yet but I do like it a lot more than the cx rings I was running for gravel racing before. 46t is just too small for fast downhills or tailwinds and I was always in the littler cassette cogs when using the bike for road group rides. A compact or semi-compact seem much more versatile.

  12. #12
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: Lombard's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    3,983
    Quote Originally Posted by bikerector View Post
    Not sure why but the 34/50 always seemed to give me problems when approaching a cross-chain scenario with the chain rubbing the big ring but going to the big ring would result in a cross chain in the opposite.
    It's actually the front derailleur that the chain is rubbing, not the other ring.

    The solution is simple. Don't cross chain!
    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein

    "Beware of geeks bearing formulas."
    -- Warren Buffett

    "Education is what you get when you read the fine print. Experience is what you get when you don't. -- Pete Seeger



  13. #13
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by rm -rf View Post


    The 36/52 is kind of nice, I could stay in the small chainring up past 20 mph and have good shift points. (I would avoid the 36-11, but the 36-12 is okay to use.)


    ....... If the gaps are large, like these 20-18-16 cogs, I'm always hunting for the best cadence, shifting up and down. But the 32 cog is great for longer steep climbs.

    Sram 11-28 and 34/50
    Compare to the Sram 11-28 (which has closer spacing in the smaller cogs than a Shimano 11-28).
    Great answer thank you, very informative. Yes I agree the sram would be a better choice of 11-28, and I was also struggling to find the right gear in group ride (falling between two).. However, it by myself today, I thought the middle cog on the 52 (about as technical as I get at this point) felt much more suitable - and got home to see if say a pr and two 2nds on strava without really trying - and with a rucksack on! So I'm hoping this set up will serve me well for some time (so I can get better wheels instead of chain rings!)
    Thanks again

  14. #14
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by rm -rf View Post
    Try the 11-32T cassette with your existing 52/36 crankset and see if that helps. If you need more hill climbing help than that, you can go to a full compact 50/34, but it will cost you a lot more than the cassette did.
    Tried today thanks (gentle climbs and flat) and it felt great. Bike shop guy warned me against putting power down while in 52-32 or 28 though as the spring/dr is quite extended. I wouldn't usually use them anyway though

  15. #15
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by riccardo123 View Post
    I have exactly that combo, in 6800 Ultegra with GS RD, and it's great, for me anyway..
    what's GS? I also have 6800 Ultegra rd but 105 front (with cannondale Si /fsa chainset!)

    I'm looking it already, but not tried steepness yet. I was warned not to ride 52 to 32 or 28 (rd straight down and could overstretch?) ..but I wouldn't want to cross chain anyway... Right?

  16. #16
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: Lombard's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    3,983
    Quote Originally Posted by MarkOneToo View Post
    what's GS? I also have 6800 Ultegra rd but 105 front (with cannondale Si /fsa chainset!)
    GS is what Shimano calls their mid-cage rear derailleurs. SS is the short-cage version. It's not stated on the derailleur, just on the box. Your Ultegra is a GS, so you're golden there.

    Quote Originally Posted by MarkOneToo View Post
    I'm looking it already, but not tried steepness yet. I was warned not to ride 52 to 32 or 28 (rd straight down and could overstretch?) ..but I wouldn't want to cross chain anyway... Right?
    Cross chaining is generally not a good practice. In an extreme case, if your chain isn't long enough for your large/large combo, the chain can bind and rip your derailleur off along with part of your bike frame. Not good to say the least.

    The small/small combo is OK as long as you don't hear any chattering. If you do, that's the sound of your chain rubbing your front derailleur. If you do this enough, you will wear a groove in your front derailleur.
    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein

    "Beware of geeks bearing formulas."
    -- Warren Buffett

    "Education is what you get when you read the fine print. Experience is what you get when you don't. -- Pete Seeger



  17. #17
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by riccardo123 View Post
    GS is what Shimano calls their mid-cage rear derailleurs. .. Your Ultegra is a GS, so you're golden there.



    Cross chaining... In an extreme case, if your chain isn't long enough for your large/large combo, the chain can bind and rip your derailleur off along with part of your bike frame. Not good to say the least.
    not good at all!

    Yes it's a gs then thanks

  18. #18
    CX'er
    Reputation: bikerector's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    851
    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    It's actually the front derailleur that the chain is rubbing, not the other ring.

    The solution is simple. Don't cross chain!
    It's simple except for the fact that there are less cross-over gears in a compact than a chainset with less teeth difference. It always seemed like the right gear was either high up the cassette in the big ring or at the bottom of the cassette in the little ring. As mentioned, I'm sure an 11-28 would have made that better, an 11-32 even more so, but I never cared for the 34/50 with an 11-25/26

  19. #19
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    8
    Is anyone riding 53/39 with 11-32 cassette? Is that even possible?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  20. #20
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: JCavilia's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    14,390
    Is anyone riding 53/39 with 11-32 cassette? Is that even possible?
    Why wouldn't it be possible? As long as your rear derailleur can handle a 32-tooth cog, and the cage can wrap the 35-tooth capacity (most medium-cage, all long-), then there's no problem.
    "Lay me down like a stone, O God, and raise me up like a loaf." Platon Karataev, War and Peace Book XII

  21. #21
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    315
    I'm riding a 50/34 with 11/32, I've run 11/36 in the past with an XTR der. No issues.

  22. #22
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Posts
    8

    Anyone riding a 52/36 + 11-32 Cassette?

    Quote Originally Posted by JCavilia View Post
    Why wouldn't it be possible? As long as your rear derailleur can handle a 32-tooth cog, and the cage can wrap the 35-tooth capacity (most medium-cage, all long-), then there's no problem.
    Ok so if I'm running 10 speed sram red with 53/39 all I need is a wifli RD and it should work? Also will I need a chain that's longer than 116 Links?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Brock4; 2 Days Ago at 11:28 AM.

  23. #23
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    69
    I'm also interested to know whether chain length is an issue, for a different reason. I want to swap a 42t chainring for a 48t on my son's MTB, can I do this without worrying about the chain? He has a low spec Suntour crank and Tourney derailleurs front and rear. I appreciate it's a little off topic but I don't want to join an MTB forum just to ask that...

  24. #24
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: JCavilia's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    14,390
    I want to swap a 42t chainring for a 48t on my son's MTB, can I do this without worrying about the chain?
    Depends. You have to pay attention to it, if that's what you mean by "worry" and "issue." If the chain is presently sized at the minimum length to shift safely to the big-big combination, you will probably need a longer chain. It's easy enough to figure (there are lots of threads discussing the various chain-sizing methods). At most you'd need 2 additional links, I think.
    "Lay me down like a stone, O God, and raise me up like a loaf." Platon Karataev, War and Peace Book XII

  25. #25
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    2,942
    If you need a pizza sized gear in the back you should be on compact. It's like saying your stronger than everyone on the straights but need tons of assistance on ascents. It doesn't make a great deal of sense to me.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Cassette gearing for high speed flat riding
    By illlili in forum Components, Wrenching
    Replies: 29
    Last Post: 12-25-2016, 08:13 AM
  2. What Cassette Would Best Best For My Riding - Di2 Groupset
    By knezz in forum Components, Wrenching
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 09-21-2016, 12:03 PM
  3. Replies: 10
    Last Post: 02-26-2013, 07:03 PM
  4. What cassette are you riding on flat roads?
    By Mark 1 in forum Racing, Training, Nutrition, Triathlons
    Replies: 30
    Last Post: 05-31-2012, 07:14 PM
  5. Replies: 1
    Last Post: 04-03-2010, 03:22 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •