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  1. #26
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    My experience with Chain-L was that it would only last one ride and the chain would be making noise. Now I know that I was probably not doing something right but I never figured it out and I went on to other lubes.

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by siclmn View Post
    My experience with Chain-L was that it would only last one ride and the chain would be making noise. Now I know that I was probably not doing something right but I never figured it out and I went on to other lubes.
    First use on my road bike with a new chain - 275miles so far and still smooth as glass and quiet - will be interesting to see how long it lasts.
    Moderation is boring - do epic s##t

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  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Srode View Post
    First use on my road bike with a new chain - 275miles so far and still smooth as glass and quiet - will be interesting to see how long it lasts.
    I keep a log of chain lube intervals...averaging ~800 mi between applications.

    even at that mileage, chain noise is only barely evident...

    the first ride after re-lubing is so nice...utterly silent and velvety-feeling.
    the 45th POTUS is inept, corrupt, and a pathological liar. and those may be his better qualities...

  4. #29
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    I thought someone would give me some suggestions, but nothing.
    So I will try again. I will soak the chain in a jar of gasoline and shake. I will do it till the chain is clean changing the gas till it is clear. Then dry in the sun for a day. Then apply the chain L. Will this work?

  5. #30
    tlg
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    Quote Originally Posted by siclmn View Post
    I thought someone would give me some suggestions, but nothing.
    So I will try again. I will soak the chain in a jar of gasoline and shake. I will do it till the chain is clean changing the gas till it is clear. Then dry in the sun for a day. Then apply the chain L. Will this work?
    No one gave you a suggestion because there's nothing really to suggest. It's lube. Apply it to each roller.


    I honestly don't believe it only lasted one ride. That's unfathomable. The only way that's even remotely possible is if you only put it on every 3rd roller.
    Custom Di2 & Garmin/GoPro mounts 2013 SuperSix EVO Hi-MOD Team * 2004 Klein Aura V

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by siclmn View Post
    I thought someone would give me some suggestions, but nothing. So I will try again. I will soak the chain in a jar of gasoline and shake. I will do it till the chain is clean changing the gas till it is clear. Then dry in the sun for a day. Then apply the chain L. Will this work?
    Come on, no disrespect intended, the chain lube topic was beaten to death long before your first post, flipped over and thrashed again, several thousand times. It's like asking how to tie my shoes. Your not going to get a lot of information. Your options are; follow the manufacturers recommendations, do it the way you want and keep notes/empirical data, and/or ask the LBS where you bought the stuff

    Best Wishes

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by siclmn View Post
    I thought someone would give me some suggestions, but nothing.
    So I will try again. I will soak the chain in a jar of gasoline and shake. I will do it till the chain is clean changing the gas till it is clear. Then dry in the sun for a day. Then apply the chain L. Will this work?
    I ride in dry conditions and never use solvents to clean a chain, so my SOP is to simply wipe the chain with a rag, apply Chain-L sparingly to each link, run the cranks backwards slowly a dozen times and let sit over-nite.

    wipe again prior to riding and after every other ride or so...

    chain stays nice and quiet for many hundreds of miles.
    the 45th POTUS is inept, corrupt, and a pathological liar. and those may be his better qualities...

  8. #33
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    [QUOTE=tlg;5161162]I honestly don't believe it only lasted one ride. That's unfathomable. QUOTE]

    not to mention inconceivable...!
    the 45th POTUS is inept, corrupt, and a pathological liar. and those may be his better qualities...

  9. #34
    tlg
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oxtox View Post
    not to mention inconceivable...!
    No, inconceivable is cleaning your chain in gasoline
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  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by siclmn View Post
    I thought someone would give me some suggestions, but nothing.
    So I will try again. I will soak the chain in a jar of gasoline and shake. I will do it till the chain is clean changing the gas till it is clear. Then dry in the sun for a day. Then apply the chain L. Will this work?
    If you really feel compelled to soak your chain, NEVER, EVER use gasoline. Use mineral spirits a.k.a. paint thinner.

    Though unless your chain is really dirty from a lot of off-road or wet weather riding, starting out by wiping your chain with a WD-40 soaked rag is sufficient.

    When you apply your lube of choice, apply a drop to EACH LINK. Then wipe the excess off. Even the greatest chain lube in the world is totally ineffective if:

    1) You don't get in into EACH and EVERY link.

    2) On the outside of the chain.
    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein

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  11. #36
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    The directions for applying Chain L are really quite good, I followed them and haven't had any issues. I did put the lube in a different applicator so I had better control over how much was going where, but using the one it comes in would just mean using more lube on a chain, not less effectiveness.

    They do have a section on their website that shows lubrication compatibility - and it's compatible with pretty much everything from what I remember - so you really don't need to soak your chain, just wipe it down and apply Chain L following their directions in most cases

    The only way I could see Chain L lasting only one ride when applied right would be in dirt / gravel for 50 miles or more.
    Moderation is boring - do epic s##t

    Trek Domane
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  12. #37
    tlg
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    If you really feel compelled to soak your chain, NEVER, EVER use gasoline. Use mineral spirits a.k.a. paint thinner.
    And even better than mineral spirits... Odorless mineral spirits.

    FYI paint thinner isn't always just mineral spirits. Sometimes it's a mixture of chemicals.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paint_thinner
    Common solvents used as paint thinners include:
    Mineral spirits (US) / White spirit (UK)
    Acetone
    Turpentine
    Naphtha
    Toluene
    Methyl ethyl ketone (MEK)
    Dimethylformamide (DMF)
    2-Butoxyethanol, or any of the other glycol ethers
    Custom Di2 & Garmin/GoPro mounts 2013 SuperSix EVO Hi-MOD Team * 2004 Klein Aura V

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlg View Post
    And even better than mineral spirits... Odorless mineral spirits.

    FYI paint thinner isn't always just mineral spirits. Sometimes it's a mixture of chemicals.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paint_thinner
    Interesting. But where can you buy pure mineral spirits? I'm using paint thinner (odorless) in my home brew chain lube mixed 50/50 with synthetic oil (Mike T.'s formula). Do you think it's a problem that I'm using paint thinner instead of pure mineral spirits?

    Also, while odorless smells all well and good. But I have to wonder what is being done to it that the odor can be removed from a normally nasty smelling product? I have to wonder if the unpleasant smell isn't the proverbial canary in the coal mine. In other words, I am guessing it still isn't healthy to breath vapors in. But if it's odorless, you won't know if it's there. Sort of the way natural gas (CO4) is a completely odorless substance, but mercaptan is added to make it foul smelling so you will know if there is a leak.
    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein

    "Beware of geeks bearing formulas."
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    "Education is what you get when you read the fine print. Experience is what you get when you don't. -- Pete Seeger



  14. #39
    tlg
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    Interesting. But where can you buy pure mineral spirits? I'm using paint thinner (odorless) in my home brew chain lube mixed 50/50 with synthetic oil (Mike T.'s formula). Do you think it's a problem that I'm using paint thinner instead of pure mineral spirits?
    I can't see that it would matter. Check the label, it should tell you the ingedients. Or maybe the MSDS. It's most likely a mix mineral spirits and acetone.

    You can get pure mineral spirits at any hardware store. Klean Strip | Odorless Mineral Spirits
    MSDS says it's 100%

    Also, while odorless smells all well and good. But I have to wonder what is being done to it that the odor can be removed from a normally nasty smelling product?
    Well I wouldn't say they smell all well and good. They still have a little smell to them. I wondered what makes them odorless too. Turns out it's just extra refined.

    Mineral spirits have a characteristic unpleasant kerosene-like odor. Chemical manufacturers have developed a low odor version of mineral turpentine which contains less of the highly volatile shorter hydrocarbons.[10] Odorless mineral spirits are mineral spirits that have been further refined to remove the more toxic aromatic compounds, and are recommended for applications such as oil painting, where humans have close contact with the solvent.
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  15. #40
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    I read a report where the researchers diluted automatic transmission fluid with acetone and made penetrating oil as good as any penetrating oil on the market. My point is you could dilute Chain-L with about 10% acetone and make it penetrate better. Acetone evaporates much faster than OMS too, but you need to use it in an HDPE bottle. Acetone dissolves LDPE. It also may not mix well, so you have to shake it before applying.

  16. #41
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    I haven't found the need to heat or dilute Chain-L, the application is pretty straight forward and it penetrates well as is.
    Moderation is boring - do epic s##t

    Trek Domane
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  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Srode View Post
    I haven't found the need to heat or dilute Chain-L, the application is pretty straight forward and it penetrates well as is.
    never had any issues with application.

    put a tiny amount on each link, backspin the cranks a few times, and let it sit overnite.
    the 45th POTUS is inept, corrupt, and a pathological liar. and those may be his better qualities...

  18. #43
    tlg
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfdemicco View Post
    My point is you could dilute Chain-L with about 10% acetone and make it penetrate better. Acetone evaporates much faster than OMS too,
    There is zero issues with Chain-L penetrating into the rollers.
    The discussion about diluting it was for the sample size bottles to make it come out easier. Nothing to do with penetration.

    I use a needle applicator bottle and dilute it with OMS to flow out better.
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  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlg View Post
    There is zero issues with Chain-L penetrating into the rollers.
    The discussion about diluting it was for the sample size bottles to make it come out easier. Nothing to do with penetration.

    I use a needle applicator bottle and dilute it with OMS to flow out better.
    I never used the stuff but if coming out of a bottle is an issue it would go to figure that getting into a chain would be.

  20. #45
    tlg
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Strongbow View Post
    I never used the stuff but if coming out of a bottle is an issue it would go to figure that getting into a chain would be.
    Nope. Zero issues.
    Capillary action takes care of that.
    Custom Di2 & Garmin/GoPro mounts 2013 SuperSix EVO Hi-MOD Team * 2004 Klein Aura V

  21. #46
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    Applying Chain-L

    Quote Originally Posted by tlg View Post
    Nope. Zero issues.
    Capillary action takes care of that.
    Regardless, thinner lubes penetrate better. Try loosening a rusted bolt with a thick lube. Doesn't work. Penetrating lubes are proven to be better for chain applications. The solvent helps the lube flow into the chain instead of all over the outside and just a little getting inside, you then wipe the outside with a rag, then the solvent evaporates leaving lube where it's needed, not all over the outside where it acts as efficient fly paper for dirt.

    Here's a relevant article http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...in-lubrication
    Last edited by mfdemicco; 08-09-2017 at 06:21 AM.

  22. #47
    tlg
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfdemicco View Post
    Regardless, thinner lubes penetrate better. Try loosening a rusted bolt with a thick lube. Doesn't work. Penetrating lubes are proven to be better for chain applications. The solvent helps the lube flow into the chain instead of all over the outside and just a little getting inside, you then wipe the outside with a rag, then the solvent evaporates leaving lube where it's needed, not all over the outside where it acts as efficient fly paper for dirt.
    I got 886.1 mi from my last application. I'm really not concerned about penetration.
    Custom Di2 & Garmin/GoPro mounts 2013 SuperSix EVO Hi-MOD Team * 2004 Klein Aura V

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlg View Post
    I got 886.1 mi from my last application. I'm really not concerned about penetration.
    And the instruction is to let the lube sit for a while. Given that such is the proper application of Chain-L, I don't see why anyone would have issue with applying it.

    Now for those who want to "cheat" it, the risk is yours.

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlg View Post
    I got 886.1 mi from my last application. I'm really not concerned about penetration.
    yeah, Chain-L penetrates quite adequately given a proper time interval. I usually allow 8-10 hrs.

    my last lube application with it yielded 824 mi.

    diluting it is completely unnecessary and probably counter-productive.
    the 45th POTUS is inept, corrupt, and a pathological liar. and those may be his better qualities...

  25. #50
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    Why not totally submerge the chain in Chain-L? You might get 1000 miles per application then.

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