Applying Chain-L

[siclmn]

My experience with Chain-L was that it would only last one ride and the chain would be making noise. Now I know that I was probably not doing something right but I never figured it out and I went on to other lubes.

[Srode]

My experience with Chain-L was that it would only last one ride and the chain would be making noise. Now I know that I was probably not doing something right but I never figured it out and I went on to other lubes.

First use on my road bike with a new chain - 275miles so far and still smooth as glass and quiet - will be interesting to see how long it lasts.

[Oxtox]

First use on my road bike with a new chain - 275miles so far and still smooth as glass and quiet - will be interesting to see how long it lasts.

I keep a log of chain lube intervals...averaging ~800 mi between applications.

even at that mileage, chain noise is only barely evident...

the first ride after re-lubing is so nice...utterly silent and velvety-feeling.

[siclmn]

I thought someone would give me some suggestions, but nothing.
So I will try again. I will soak the chain in a jar of gasoline and shake. I will do it till the chain is clean changing the gas till it is clear. Then dry in the sun for a day. Then apply the chain L. Will this work?

[tlg]

I thought someone would give me some suggestions, but nothing.
So I will try again. I will soak the chain in a jar of gasoline and shake. I will do it till the chain is clean changing the gas till it is clear. Then dry in the sun for a day. Then apply the chain L. Will this work?

No one gave you a suggestion because there's nothing really to suggest. It's lube. Apply it to each roller.


I honestly don't believe it only lasted one ride. That's unfathomable. The only way that's even remotely possible is if you only put it on every 3rd roller.

[n2deep]

I thought someone would give me some suggestions, but nothing. So I will try again. I will soak the chain in a jar of gasoline and shake. I will do it till the chain is clean changing the gas till it is clear. Then dry in the sun for a day. Then apply the chain L. Will this work?

Come on, no disrespect intended, the chain lube topic was beaten to death long before your first post, flipped over and thrashed again, several thousand times. It's like asking how to tie my shoes. Your not going to get a lot of information. Your options are; follow the manufacturers recommendations, do it the way you want and keep notes/empirical data, and/or ask the LBS where you bought the stuff

Best Wishes

[Oxtox]

I thought someone would give me some suggestions, but nothing.
So I will try again. I will soak the chain in a jar of gasoline and shake. I will do it till the chain is clean changing the gas till it is clear. Then dry in the sun for a day. Then apply the chain L. Will this work?

I ride in dry conditions and never use solvents to clean a chain, so my SOP is to simply wipe the chain with a rag, apply Chain-L sparingly to each link, run the cranks backwards slowly a dozen times and let sit over-nite.

wipe again prior to riding and after every other ride or so...

chain stays nice and quiet for many hundreds of miles.

[Oxtox]

[QUOTE=tlg;5161162]I honestly don't believe it only lasted one ride. That's unfathomable. QUOTE]

not to mention inconceivable...!

[tlg]

not to mention inconceivable...!

No, inconceivable is cleaning your chain in gasoline

[Lombard]

I thought someone would give me some suggestions, but nothing.
So I will try again. I will soak the chain in a jar of gasoline and shake. I will do it till the chain is clean changing the gas till it is clear. Then dry in the sun for a day. Then apply the chain L. Will this work?

If you really feel compelled to soak your chain, NEVER, EVER use gasoline. Use mineral spirits a.k.a. paint thinner.

Though unless your chain is really dirty from a lot of off-road or wet weather riding, starting out by wiping your chain with a WD-40 soaked rag is sufficient.

When you apply your lube of choice, apply a drop to EACH LINK. Then wipe the excess off. Even the greatest chain lube in the world is totally ineffective if:

1) You don't get in into EACH and EVERY link.

2) On the outside of the chain.

[Srode]

The directions for applying Chain L are really quite good, I followed them and haven't had any issues. I did put the lube in a different applicator so I had better control over how much was going where, but using the one it comes in would just mean using more lube on a chain, not less effectiveness.

They do have a section on their website that shows lubrication compatibility - and it's compatible with pretty much everything from what I remember - so you really don't need to soak your chain, just wipe it down and apply Chain L following their directions in most cases

The only way I could see Chain L lasting only one ride when applied right would be in dirt / gravel for 50 miles or more.

[tlg]

If you really feel compelled to soak your chain, NEVER, EVER use gasoline. Use mineral spirits a.k.a. paint thinner.

And even better than mineral spirits... Odorless mineral spirits.

FYI paint thinner isn't always just mineral spirits. Sometimes it's a mixture of chemicals.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paint_thinner
Common solvents used as paint thinners include:
Mineral spirits (US) / White spirit (UK)
Acetone
Turpentine
Naphtha
Toluene
Methyl ethyl ketone (MEK)
Dimethylformamide (DMF)
2-Butoxyethanol, or any of the other glycol ethers

[Lombard]

And even better than mineral spirits... Odorless mineral spirits.

FYI paint thinner isn't always just mineral spirits. Sometimes it's a mixture of chemicals.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paint_thinner

Interesting. But where can you buy pure mineral spirits? I'm using paint thinner (odorless) in my home brew chain lube mixed 50/50 with synthetic oil (Mike T.'s formula). Do you think it's a problem that I'm using paint thinner instead of pure mineral spirits?

Also, while odorless smells all well and good. But I have to wonder what is being done to it that the odor can be removed from a normally nasty smelling product? I have to wonder if the unpleasant smell isn't the proverbial canary in the coal mine. In other words, I am guessing it still isn't healthy to breath vapors in. But if it's odorless, you won't know if it's there. Sort of the way natural gas (CO4) is a completely odorless substance, but mercaptan is added to make it foul smelling so you will know if there is a leak.

[tlg]

Interesting. But where can you buy pure mineral spirits? I'm using paint thinner (odorless) in my home brew chain lube mixed 50/50 with synthetic oil (Mike T.'s formula). Do you think it's a problem that I'm using paint thinner instead of pure mineral spirits?

I can't see that it would matter. Check the label, it should tell you the ingedients. Or maybe the MSDS. It's most likely a mix mineral spirits and acetone.

You can get pure mineral spirits at any hardware store. Klean Strip | Odorless Mineral Spirits
MSDS says it's 100%

Also, while odorless smells all well and good. But I have to wonder what is being done to it that the odor can be removed from a normally nasty smelling product?

Well I wouldn't say they smell all well and good. They still have a little smell to them. I wondered what makes them odorless too. Turns out it's just extra refined.

Mineral spirits have a characteristic unpleasant kerosene-like odor. Chemical manufacturers have developed a low odor version of mineral turpentine which contains less of the highly volatile shorter hydrocarbons.[10] Odorless mineral spirits are mineral spirits that have been further refined to remove the more toxic aromatic compounds, and are recommended for applications such as oil painting, where humans have close contact with the solvent.

[mfdemicco]

I read a report where the researchers diluted automatic transmission fluid with acetone and made penetrating oil as good as any penetrating oil on the market. My point is you could dilute Chain-L with about 10% acetone and make it penetrate better. Acetone evaporates much faster than OMS too, but you need to use it in an HDPE bottle. Acetone dissolves LDPE. It also may not mix well, so you have to shake it before applying.

[Srode]

I haven't found the need to heat or dilute Chain-L, the application is pretty straight forward and it penetrates well as is.

[Oxtox]

I haven't found the need to heat or dilute Chain-L, the application is pretty straight forward and it penetrates well as is.

never had any issues with application.

put a tiny amount on each link, backspin the cranks a few times, and let it sit overnite.

[tlg]

My point is you could dilute Chain-L with about 10% acetone and make it penetrate better. Acetone evaporates much faster than OMS too,

There is zero issues with Chain-L penetrating into the rollers.
The discussion about diluting it was for the sample size bottles to make it come out easier. Nothing to do with penetration.

I use a needle applicator bottle and dilute it with OMS to flow out better.

[Jay Strongbow]

There is zero issues with Chain-L penetrating into the rollers.
The discussion about diluting it was for the sample size bottles to make it come out easier. Nothing to do with penetration.

I use a needle applicator bottle and dilute it with OMS to flow out better.

I never used the stuff but if coming out of a bottle is an issue it would go to figure that getting into a chain would be.

[tlg]

I never used the stuff but if coming out of a bottle is an issue it would go to figure that getting into a chain would be.

Nope. Zero issues.
Capillary action takes care of that.

[mfdemicco]

Nope. Zero issues.
Capillary action takes care of that.

Regardless, thinner lubes penetrate better. Try loosening a rusted bolt with a thick lube. Doesn't work. Penetrating lubes are proven to be better for chain applications. The solvent helps the lube flow into the chain instead of all over the outside and just a little getting inside, you then wipe the outside with a rag, then the solvent evaporates leaving lube where it's needed, not all over the outside where it acts as efficient fly paper for dirt.

Here's a relevant article http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...in-lubrication

[tlg]

Regardless, thinner lubes penetrate better. Try loosening a rusted bolt with a thick lube. Doesn't work. Penetrating lubes are proven to be better for chain applications. The solvent helps the lube flow into the chain instead of all over the outside and just a little getting inside, you then wipe the outside with a rag, then the solvent evaporates leaving lube where it's needed, not all over the outside where it acts as efficient fly paper for dirt.

I got 886.1 mi from my last application. I'm really not concerned about penetration.

[bvber]

I got 886.1 mi from my last application. I'm really not concerned about penetration.

And the instruction is to let the lube sit for a while. Given that such is the proper application of Chain-L, I don't see why anyone would have issue with applying it.

Now for those who want to "cheat" it, the risk is yours.

[Oxtox]

I got 886.1 mi from my last application. I'm really not concerned about penetration.

yeah, Chain-L penetrates quite adequately given a proper time interval. I usually allow 8-10 hrs.

my last lube application with it yielded 824 mi.

diluting it is completely unnecessary and probably counter-productive.

[mfdemicco]

Why not totally submerge the chain in Chain-L? You might get 1000 miles per application then.