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Thread: BB Questions!

  1. #1
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    BB Questions!

    I have assembled enough parts for my bare frame (Kish Ti) to now be dangerous!

    I picked up a Shimano BBR60 English thread for my ride. It appears to be pretty straightforward. Questions I came up with are:

    Any specific compound to use on threads of the BB for a Ti frame?

    How tight? Hand tight or pretty damn snug? We talking spark plug in aluminum head tight?

    Might have some time to swing it tomorrow. Thanks!

  2. #2
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    Ideally Ti anti-seize. Grease will work if you don't have anti-seize. Don't be shy, use a bunch. I put it on the threads in the frame not on the bb cup. This means the grease gets drawn into the frame rather than half of it getting pushed off the threads and not being where it needs to be. The proper torque is easily found in the handy instruction sheet that came w/ your bottom bracket. It's definitely more than hand tight. Drive side is left hand thread, Non drive side is right hand thread.
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  3. #3
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    I checked to make sure I picked up the right thread pitch and noticed the right and left hand threads. I shall even read those instructions!!!

    Going to order some Ti anti-seize tonight.

    Thanks!

  4. #4
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    Tight. Way more than snug, check your instructions.
    "Refreshingly Unconcerned With The Vulgar Exigencies Of Veracity "

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    Quote Originally Posted by biscut View Post
    I checked to make sure I picked up the right thread pitch and noticed the right and left hand threads. I shall even read those instructions!!!

    Going to order some Ti anti-seize tonight.

    Thanks!
    You can also buy a 3 oz tube (lifetime supply) at any hardware or automotive store for a couple bucks.
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  6. #6
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    While anti-seize will work, I've found it dries out/gets gummed up/doesn't withstand water i.e., getting caught in the rain.

    Wrap the threads in Teflon plumber's tape, THEN add anti-seize. That's my secret.

    My buddy had a Campy BB seize in a Merlin Ti frame. It ain't pretty.

  7. #7
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    Look up the torque specs and get a torque wrench if you don't already have one.

    None of this "pretty tight", "quite tight" or "tight enough" stuff. Do it right.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    Look up the torque specs and get a torque wrench if you don't already have one.

    None of this "pretty tight", "quite tight" or "tight enough" stuff. Do it right.
    Settle down tiger 🐅 I’m with you! Doing it right is why I’m here asking. I have a few TQ wrenches but many of the bottom bracket tools on the market aren’t made for a TQ wrench (unless I’m missing something).

    It seemed pretty unlikely it was a hand tight situation but then again the tool Shimano ships wit it sure screams hand tight.

    There will be many more questions coming!! Thanks for the patience

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    Quote Originally Posted by biscut View Post
    Settle down tiger 🐅 I’m with you! Doing it right is why I’m here asking. I have a few TQ wrenches but many of the bottom bracket tools on the market aren’t made for a TQ wrench (unless I’m missing something).

    It seemed pretty unlikely it was a hand tight situation but then again the tool Shimano ships wit it sure screams hand tight.

    There will be many more questions coming!! Thanks for the patience
    The latest Park tool for that BB (BBT-59.2) has a 3/8 inch drive. I have an older Park took for my Campy BB's and I did have to but a large socket to fit on the end but that worked as well.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    Look up the torque specs and get a torque wrench if you don't already have one.

    None of this "pretty tight", "quite tight" or "tight enough" stuff. Do it right.
    Come on. There are an increasing number of bolts on a modern bike for which you are tempting fate if not using a torque wrench. But BB cups isn't one of them. Most BB fitting tools are in the form of wrenches or to be used with wrenches - neither of which can interface with a torque wrench. While most outboard threaded cups do have a torque specification stamped on them, this is far from rocket science. So long as you have a general feel of what the torque setting is, this is one place where you can definitely do the job by feel. You do not want to error on under tight. Outboard cups need to be threaded good and tight after the cups are fully seated. For the non-drive side of inboard cups, the lock ring is what needs to be fully seated and tight.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RHankey View Post
    Come on. There are an increasing number of bolts on a modern bike for which you are tempting fate if not using a torque wrench. But BB cups isn't one of them. Most BB fitting tools are in the form of wrenches or to be used with wrenches - neither of which can interface with a torque wrench. While most outboard threaded cups do have a torque specification stamped on them, this is far from rocket science. So long as you have a general feel of what the torque setting is, this is one place where you can definitely do the job by feel. You do not want to error on under tight. Outboard cups need to be threaded good and tight after the cups are fully seated. For the non-drive side of inboard cups, the lock ring is what needs to be fully seated and tight.
    I would echo the above. I am both careful and diligent and use a torque wrench in just about everything in my bike.

    But the BB is an exception to this rule. I’ve never had any problems with hand tightening to the level of “pretty darn tight but nothing crazy.”

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by biscut View Post
    Settle down tiger  I’m with you! Doing it right is why I’m here asking. I have a few TQ wrenches but many of the bottom bracket tools on the market aren’t made for a TQ wrench (unless I’m missing something).

    It seemed pretty unlikely it was a hand tight situation but then again the tool Shimano ships wit it sure screams hand tight.

    There will be many more questions coming!! Thanks for the patience
    Sorry if I seemed heavy handed. I am just perplexed at how many DIYers wrench without a torque wrench.

    You will need these:

    https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Bot...F2JB8CMZ5EA6YW

    https://www.parktool.com/product/rat...Torque%20Tools
    Last edited by Lombard; 02-02-2018 at 06:10 PM.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by biscut View Post
    Settle down tiger  I’m with you! Doing it right is why I’m here asking. I have a few TQ wrenches but many of the bottom bracket tools on the market aren’t made for a TQ wrench (unless I’m missing something).

    It seemed pretty unlikely it was a hand tight situation but then again the tool Shimano ships wit it sure screams hand tight.
    NO. I suspect the tool you're talking about is for installing the non-drive crank arm and for that (the plastic nut and plastic tool), hand tight is indeed correct.

    BB torque for Shimano is like 60Nm. Most or all BB tools should fit a 3/8" or 1/4" drive torque wrench.
    Well, you know, that's just, like, your opinion man. - The Dude

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by RHankey View Post
    Come on. There are an increasing number of bolts on a modern bike for which you are tempting fate if not using a torque wrench. But BB cups isn't one of them. Most BB fitting tools are in the form of wrenches or to be used with wrenches - neither of which can interface with a torque wrench.
    Most BB fitting tools that I've seen or own fit a torque wrench of the size that is necessary to apply the required torque i.e. around 60Nm AKA a LOT.
    Well, you know, that's just, like, your opinion man. - The Dude

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by biscut View Post
    Any specific compound to use on threads of the BB for a Ti frame?
    If you plan to assemble the frame and never take it apart for clean/lube, then anti-sieze is the better choice. Howver this is poor practice. I'm starting my 21st season (over 200K miles not counting roller time in the winter) on Ti frames and have always used grease for all threads. This is what Litespeed recommended when I asked them. Never had any issues using grease.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    Sorry if I seemed heavy handed. I am just perplexed at how many DIYers wrench without a torque wrench.

    You will need these:

    https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Bot...F2JB8CMZ5EA6YW

    https://www.parktool.com/product/rat...Torque%20Tools

    Not at all. I appreciate your posts. I don't know so thats why I'm here. I don't want to "bubba" the thing. If you google Park Tool bottom bracket tool lots of wrenches come up that are not meant for a torque wrench; hence the confusion and the questions.

    I hope to use this bike in winter months and on hard pack dirt in VT and NH. I would probably tear it down and clean/lube after each winter season. So doing it the right way initially should make it a smoother process in the future.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by biscut View Post
    Not at all. I appreciate your posts. I don't know so thats why I'm here. I don't want to "bubba" the thing. If you google Park Tool bottom bracket tool lots of wrenches come up that are not meant for a torque wrench; hence the confusion and the questions.

    I hope to use this bike in winter months and on hard pack dirt in VT and NH. I would probably tear it down and clean/lube after each winter season. So doing it the right way initially should make it a smoother process in the future.
    Yea the 16-notch standard for bearing cups is nice...except there are at least 5 diameters (that Park sells and I know off):

    39mm
    41mm
    44mm
    46mm
    48.5mm

    Only the 48.5 is sold on a dumb metal spanner....which for you shouldn't matter as 48.5mm 16-notch is only for FSA MegaEvo bearings. All the rest are ratchet sockets.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc View Post
    Yea the 16-notch standard for bearing cups is nice...except there are at least 5 diameters (that Park sells and I know off):

    39mm
    41mm
    44mm
    46mm
    48.5mm

    Only the 48.5 is sold on a dumb metal spanner....which for you shouldn't matter as 48.5mm 16-notch is only for FSA MegaEvo bearings. All the rest are ratchet sockets.
    I don't know what the exact measurement of this one is. It says it works with all Shimano Hollowtech II:

    https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Bot...F2JB8CMZ5EA6YW
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldChipper View Post
    NO. I suspect the tool you're talking about is for installing the non-drive crank arm and for that (the plastic nut and plastic tool), hand tight is indeed correct.
    Yep.

    Quote Originally Posted by OldChipper View Post
    BB torque for Shimano is like 60Nm. Most or all BB tools should fit a 3/8" or 1/4" drive torque wrench.
    Where did you find this? My sources show 34-50Nm. I use 40Nm.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    Where did you find this? My sources show 34-50Nm. I use 40Nm.
    Correct. 60nM would be in the standard BB cup range.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    Yep.



    Where did you find this? My sources show 34-50Nm. I use 40Nm.
    I was going from memory of the information included with the BB. Zinn's book shows 50Nm. I could have remembered a bit high (I was thinking 50-60).
    Well, you know, that's just, like, your opinion man. - The Dude

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldChipper View Post
    I was going from memory of the information included with the BB. Zinn's book shows 50Nm. I could have remembered a bit high (I was thinking 50-60).
    Oh OK. Park's book shows around 34-50Nm.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  23. #23
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    When I just installed a BBR60 on my Fuji, I used the Shimano TL-FC37 tool. It was a little cheaper than the Park version (got it on sale around the holidays). It is 1/2” drive, and works well with my big torque wrench.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by JerryLook View Post
    When I just installed a BBR60 on my Fuji, I used the Shimano TL-FC37 tool. It was a little cheaper than the Park version (got it on sale around the holidays). It is 1/2” drive, and works well with my big torque wrench.
    Thanks bro!!

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    Is Park Tool BBT69.2 the correct socket for HollowTech II? I'm hoping so as I have access to that socket from a friends tool box.

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