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RoadBikeReview Member
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Best headset to upgrade from Aheadset to use carbon fork made for integral bearings?
How to convert traditional ball bearing race, Aheadset headset to use carbon fork (made for integrated headsets). I have a Fuji Newest with one of the heaviest 1-1/8" front forks ever manufactured, so I bought a used Look 566 1-1/8" front fork. What is the best replacement headset that I should buy in order to use this fork?
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The answer to that is simply. "Chris King".
There you go.
**** this forum! You guys are a bunch of *******s! -2wheelsrule
and yet another unnecessary A**hole! go F*** youself! -rabochuffo
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RoadBikeReview Member
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The lip of the Aheadset hits the flat top of the fork before the built-in crown race touches the Aheadset bearings. I am assuming that I will need to pop out the headset and replace with one that has sealed bearings.
The website says "The 100 percent carbon, single-piece fork uses Look's patented integrated conical carbon crown, with 45-degree bearing angle".
What "45-degree bearing angle" traditional outboard bearing headset model from Chris King, Cane Creek or FSA would you recommend?
 Originally Posted by tihsepa
The answer to that is simply. "Chris King".
There you go.
Last edited by Erik_A; 03-16-2013 at 02:35 PM.
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Just a 1 1/8" NoThreadset. Thats basicly what you showed above.
The Cane Creek 40 is nice also but its not a King.
**** this forum! You guys are a bunch of *******s! -2wheelsrule
and yet another unnecessary A**hole! go F*** youself! -rabochuffo
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RoadBikeReview Member
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 Originally Posted by Erik_A
How to convert traditional ball bearing race, Aheadset headset to use carbon fork (made for integrated headsets). I have a Fuji Newest with one of the heaviest 1-1/8" front forks ever manufactured, so I bought a used Look 566 1-1/8" front fork. What is the best replacement headset that I should buy in order to use this fork?
There's no such thing as a "fork made for integrated headsets". That fork is made for threadless headsets, but not all threadless headsets are "integrated". There are several types and the type of threadless headset ("integrated - cane creek type", "integrated campy type", zero stack/press in internal cups, conventional/press in external cups, etc.) is determined by the frame (head tube). Just get any threadless headset in your price point that is compatible with your frame and you're good to go.
But maybe I'm missing something. The headset you posted looks like "conventional/external cups" to me which leads me to ask - why not just use the headset that's already in the frame? Is the new fork's steer tube different diameter than the old one? Again, the fork - it's steer tube - regardless of material it's made of, doesn't determine the type of headset you need.
[edit .... sorry I just noticed your second post in the thread]. Your new fork isn't for an integrated headset - it simply has an integrated lower race. Most forks require a race that is pressed down the steer tube on to the fork crown. If you look at your old fork, you'll probably see it. Annnnnnyyyy way.....
I would be surprised if your current headset wouldn't work, assuming it has a lower bearing angle that matches that integrated race on the fork. If so, I don't know why you couldn't use it, regardless of whether it's a caged bearing type or sealed bearing type. On the other hand, just get any headset you like with the lower bearing angle that matches that race and is compatable with your frame.
Last edited by Camilo; 03-19-2013 at 02:53 PM.
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RoadBikeReview Member
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 Originally Posted by Camilo
There's no such thing as a "fork made for integrated headsets". That fork is made for threadless headsets, but not all threadless headsets are "integrated". There are several types and the type of threadless headset ("integrated - cane creek type", "integrated campy type", zero stack/press in internal cups, conventional/press in external cups, etc.) is determined by the frame (head tube). Just get any threadless headset in your price point that is compatible with your frame and you're good to go.
But maybe I'm missing something. The headset you posted looks like "conventional/external cups" to me which leads me to ask - why not just use the headset that's already in the frame? Is the new fork's steer tube different diameter than the old one? Again, the fork - it's steer tube - regardless of material it's made of, doesn't determine the type of headset you need.
I was just thinking it'd need a new race on the fork?
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The bottom race is integrated on the fork. Whatever headset you find that will work (if any) will definitely need to be a cartridge bearing one. However, most traditional headsets have a 36° angle bearing, not a 45°. You'll either need to be VERY friendly with your local shop, or you'll need to chalk this one up as a bad purchase.
Disclaimer: I own a bike shop. Yes, I'm biased.
Other countries need to stop hatin' or we'll unfriend them. - Christine
Apparently I left my reading comprehension glasses in my ass. - DrRoebuck
Still, it felt great and I felt like I was sitting on some kind of vibrator -Touch0Gray
and yet another unnecessary A**hole! go F*** youself! - some loser
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RoadBikeReview Member
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Thanks - It is a caged bearing headset pressed in.
 Originally Posted by Camilo
There's no such thing as a "fork made for integrated headsets". That fork is made for threadless headsets, but not all threadless headsets are "integrated". There are several types and the type of threadless headset ("integrated - cane creek type", "integrated campy type", zero stack/press in internal cups, conventional/press in external cups, etc.) is determined by the frame (head tube). Just get any threadless headset in your price point that is compatible with your frame and you're good to go.
But maybe I'm missing something. The headset you posted looks like "conventional/external cups" to me which leads me to ask - why not just use the headset that's already in the frame? Is the new fork's steer tube different diameter than the old one? Again, the fork - it's steer tube - regardless of material it's made of, doesn't determine the type of headset you need.
[edit .... sorry I just noticed your second post in the thread]. Your new fork isn't for an integrated headset - it simply has an integrated lower race. Most forks require a race that is pressed down the steer tube on to the fork crown. If you look at your old fork, you'll probably see it. Annnnnnyyyy way.....
I would be surprised if your current headset wouldn't work, assuming it has a lower bearing angle that matches that integrated race on the fork. If so, I don't know why you couldn't use it, regardless of whether it's a caged bearing type or sealed bearing type. On the other hand, just get any headset you like with the lower bearing angle that matches that race and is compatable with your frame.
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RoadBikeReview Member
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 Originally Posted by adam_mac84
I was just thinking it'd need a new race on the fork?
Ordinarily I'd say that's exactly it - get a crown race that is appropriate for your headset bearings and press it down onto the new fork's crown... or do what I did, carefully scavange the crown race off the old fork and put it on the new one. BUT, your Look fork says it comes with an integrated crown race w/ 45 degree contact angle. Most conventional threadless headsets (unless I'm mistaken - you should research on FSA and/or Cane Creek) come with 36 degree berarings like Platypius said. I don't know if you could put a new crown race w/ 36 degree angle onto it.
Now I'm thinking that I was wrong when I stated that there's no such thing as a fork made for an integrated headset! The only headset I'm aware of that has a 45 degree lower contact angle is (I could be wrong!) a "campy" standard integrated headset. So, maybe the Look fork is specifically made for that.
OK, what I'd do is call up FSA or Cane Creek and ask them if they have a suggestion or can sell you a lower bearing that is compatible with your 45 degree fork crown race and your traditional press-in threadless headset. Or maybe they'll tell you that you could simply place a new crown race onto that fork.
Just free-associating here, do not give this any credibility: maybe you could carefully remove/grind/scrape off the crown race that is part of the fork to make the surface accept a new crown race.
After you call them, please post back - I'd be interested in the solution!
Last edited by Camilo; 03-21-2013 at 09:05 AM.
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RoadBikeReview Member
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I bought a Cane Creek S-8 headset - will report back when it arrives.
From China for $30: Cane Creek s 8 s 8 Headset 28 6mm 1 1 8 " New | eBay
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 Originally Posted by Erik_A
Thanks - It is a caged bearing headset pressed in.
pretty sure that's not gonna work.
i work for some bike racers...
2013 Trek Madone 5.9 w/ '12 SRAM Red
2012 Trek Cronus Ultimate w/ SRAM Red Black
2010 Cervelo T1 sprint bike
2011 Cervelo P2 pursuit bike
FMF 24" cruiser
Bianchi Pista road fixed gear
1949 Columbia 26" cruiser w/ SRM & fenders...and rust
'05 Suzuki DRZ400SM
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 Originally Posted by Erik_A
From the US:
Cane Creek S-8 Headset in Tree Fort Bikes Headsets (cat124)
Ain't gonna work, BTW...
Disclaimer: I own a bike shop. Yes, I'm biased.
Other countries need to stop hatin' or we'll unfriend them. - Christine
Apparently I left my reading comprehension glasses in my ass. - DrRoebuck
Still, it felt great and I felt like I was sitting on some kind of vibrator -Touch0Gray
and yet another unnecessary A**hole! go F*** youself! - some loser
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RoadBikeReview Member
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Platypus- how come the Cane Creek S-8 won't work - it has the 45 deg. Bearings?
 Originally Posted by PlatyPius
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It has 45° bearings? If so, it'll work. The info on my distributor website says it's 36°. Wouldn't be the first time the distributor has been wrong, though...
Disclaimer: I own a bike shop. Yes, I'm biased.
Other countries need to stop hatin' or we'll unfriend them. - Christine
Apparently I left my reading comprehension glasses in my ass. - DrRoebuck
Still, it felt great and I felt like I was sitting on some kind of vibrator -Touch0Gray
and yet another unnecessary A**hole! go F*** youself! - some loser
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RoadBikeReview Member
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One of the numbers coincides with the angle on the inside of the bearing (the part that sits on the crown race), the other angle represents the angle on the outside of the cartridge (the part that rests in the headtube or pressed in cups.) I'm guessing that you'll need a headset with bearings that say "45 x 45" on the side, not "36 x 45."
I'm pretty sure the interface between the frame (or cups) and the cartridge bearing is 45 degrees for most headsets, and if true, that means the "36" stamped on the side of that cartridge bearing is referring to the internal angle and this means that it WILL NOT work with your 45 degree crown race. 45 x 45 headset bearings are available, so find one of those and swap it out for the lower bearing on your existing headset, and you may just be in business.
-Jeremy
Last edited by Tunnelrat81; 04-06-2013 at 10:43 AM.
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RoadBikeReview Member
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Thanks jeremy-
 Originally Posted by Tunnelrat81
One of the numbers coincides with the angle on the inside of the bearing (the part that sits on the crown race), the other angle represents the angle on the outside of the cartridge (the part that rests in the headtube or pressed in cups.) I'm guessing that you'll need a headset with bearings that say "45 x 45" on the side, not "36 x 45."
I'm pretty sure the interface between the frame (or cups) and the cartridge bearing is 45 degrees for most headsets, and if true, that means the "36" stamped on the side of that cartridge bearing is referring to the internal angle and this means that it WILL NOT work with your 45 degree crown race. 45 x 45 headset bearings are available, so find one of those and swap it out for the lower bearing on your existing headset, and you may just be in business.
-Jeremy
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