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  1. #1
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    Campagnolo Front Derailleur Adjustment Question

    I recently installed Campy Chorus 10 speed front derailleur and am realizing that it's more finicky to set up than Shimano or Sram front derailleur. I've heard that it should take 3 clicks of front shifter for the chain to go from small chain ring to larger one. Campy users, is it typical? Mine takes 4 clicks even though I tightened the cable with barrel adjuster. I wonder what's going on with it.

    Here are my components.
    Shifters: Campy Record 10 x 2
    Crank set: Campy Chorus 11 speed with 53/39 chainring
    Front derailleur: Campy Chorus double for 10 speed
    Rear derailleur: Campy Chorus 10 speed
    Rear cassette: Campy Record 10 speed
    Chain: KMC 10 speed

  2. #2
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    I've got several Campy 10-speed bikes. I've never been a "click counter", I'm happy if the system shifts well and does not rub. So the following may not agree precisely with Campy tech instructions.

    I checked 2 bikes with 10-speed Record shifters and cranks. One UT and one square taper.

    The front shifter gives you a lot of positions because it's also usable with a triple. (so your description of them being "10 x 2" is not accurate). The total number of clicks can vary in practice because small changes in the geometry of the frames will dictate the position of the FD stops.

    The number of clicks needed will also be impacted by the relative inner stop position. In small-big the chain should just barely clear the inner cage plate. More distance here would require more movement of the FD before anything happens. So it's not just a matter of cable tension.

    Normally when shifting up to the big ring it's a big sweep of the finger lever and you're done. Once there, there is one trim position back.

    I just counted the clicks and on bike 1 (UT crank) starting in the small ring with the thumb shifter fully done, I have 3 trim clicks on the small ring, click 4 puts the chain up and click 5 gets it against the outer stop.

    On bike 2 I get 2 trim clicks on the small ring, click 3 will raise the chain and click 4 brings it against the stop.

    It's worth spending the time to make sure that height is correct, alignment is correct, and the inner stop is correct, all before attaching the cable, which should be done so that there is a little tension to begin with. In a perfect world, the trim position on the big ring is not needed and you should be able to go through the full range without needing to trim. But it's nice to have.
    Last edited by bikerjulio; 3 Weeks Ago at 06:16 AM.
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by bvber View Post
    I recently installed Campy Chorus 10 speed front derailleur and am realizing that it's more finicky to set up than Shimano or Sram front derailleur. I've heard that it should take 3 clicks of front shifter for the chain to go from small chain ring to larger one. Campy users, is it typical? Mine takes 4 clicks even though I tightened the cable with barrel adjuster. I wonder what's going on with it.

    Here are my components.
    Shifters: Campy Record 10 x 2
    Crank set: Campy Chorus 11 speed with 53/39 chainring
    Front derailleur: Campy Chorus double for 10 speed
    Rear derailleur: Campy Chorus 10 speed
    Rear cassette: Campy Record 10 speed
    Chain: KMC 10 speed
    I've been riding Campy Erogpower shifters for nearly 20 years and NOT ONCE have I counted how many clicks it takes to get from the small ring to the big ring. Somehow I have survived and prospered despite this. I suggest you do the same.

  4. #4
    hfc
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    I wouldn't sweat the number of clicks as long as it works; my Campy 10 shifters have a lot of clicks. I had to watch a video to set up my SR 11 speed FD however, as it was giving me a lot of trouble and the guy mentioned setting it up to shift on 3 clicks, so maybe that's where you got the idea from?

  5. #5
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    I'd agree with both the above.

    I've never counted clicks until today.
    We just don’t realize the most significant moments of our lives when they’re happening
    Back then I thought “well there'll be other days”
    I didn’t realize that was the only day
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9yrupye7B0

    There's sometimes a buggy.
    How many drivers does a buggy have?
    One.
    So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
    and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by hfc View Post
    I had to watch a video to set up my SR 11 speed FD however, as it was giving me a lot of trouble and the guy mentioned setting it up to shift on 3 clicks, so maybe that's where you got the idea from?
    Yes, this is the video.

  7. #7
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    11sp especially the > 2015 is click countable.
    10 sp, put it on the little ring, big cog with no cable or very loose set the stop so there's no chain rub on the inside of the cage. Snug the cable. Shift to the big ring set the stop so you don't over shift and your done.
    Why worry about the clicks? Is it working? It's been a while since my 10 sp but I'm thinking in reality 4 clicks may be good. If I recall correctly I'm thinking there was 2 clicks of trim before I would drop to the little ring and then I'm thinking there was one more to get it all the way over.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bvber View Post
    I recently installed Campy Chorus 10 speed front derailleur and am realizing that it's more finicky to set up than Shimano or Sram front derailleur. I've heard that it should take 3 clicks of front shifter for the chain to go from small chain ring to larger one. Campy users, is it typical? Mine takes 4 clicks even though I tightened the cable with barrel adjuster. I wonder what's going on with it.

    Here are my components.
    Shifters: Campy Record 10 x 2
    Crank set: Campy Chorus 11 speed with 53/39 chainring
    Front derailleur: Campy Chorus double for 10 speed
    Rear derailleur: Campy Chorus 10 speed
    Rear cassette: Campy Record 10 speed
    Chain: KMC 10 speed

    You have two fundamental incompatibilities there, so it's no great surprise that you can't get a "to the manual" set up.

    You should, if you have a properly compatible system and a correctly positioned FD, be able to set up neutral + 3 clicks with no chain scrape on any sprocket when you are on the big ring and any sprocket at the rear, and sufficient trim options when on the small ring to eliminate chain touch on the FD cage ...

    However, you are using a chain whose shift characteristics are nothing like a Campag chain and a set of chainrings that are rather closer together and which have different ramping and pinning to the 10s version ...

    So does it matter?

    Well, it would irritate the hell out of me because I like my gearing system to set up the way it is supposed to. I'd also rather not loose the warranty on the components I am using ... even though as Campagnolo's warranty manager for the UK I know pretty much exactly how unlikely I am to need that warranty!

    But it depends how particular you are. I have guys bring bikes to me that they think work fine but I think are mechanical disaster areas ...

    Functionally a mix like this up-shift "OK" but under load it won't shift as predictably as it could and it'll be a slower shift because the KMC chain doesn't quite fit into the ramping the same way as the Campag chain does - so the shift will be more like a system from 7 or 8 years ago, before Campag and Shimano started to get cleverer about such things and relied far more on the cage basically pushing the chain across and the lift pins "snagging" the chain to pull it up, rather than the shaping on the inner plate and the chainring ramps delivering the chain onto the pins which now guide the chain, rather than snag it.

    Down-shift will be OK on 53/39 but if you were running 50/34, especially with a wider cassette, you might find a bit more unpredictable. Again, a lot of development has gone in, most notably by Shimano and Campag in making wider ratio front down-shifting more accurate.

    Campag is no more difficult to set up than Shimano or SRAM but like it's competitors, it does need setting up correctly. You can't just assume that it'll set up like the competition, because it won't ... just like every maker's material, there is a set of criteria that for a "to spec" set-up, you need to follow. SRAM Yaw FDs have the reputation of being hard to set up - but they aren't, you just need to know the rules. Shimano have their specific techniques, too and like Campag, like SRAM they can be made to *work* by following a set of generic steps - but *if* you want them to work as per the manual, you need to make sure that you are complying with the specification.
    HTH
    Graeme
    Velotech Cycling Ltd
    Nationally recognised & accredited training for cycle mechanics
    Main Campagnolo SC UK
    NB - Please don't PM me here, please email to velotechcycling"at" aim"dot"com

  9. #9
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    If you follow the manual to the letter, you won't have any trouble.
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