Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 26 to 46 of 46
  1. #26
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    412
    Foer $50 (and probably $20 resell, after shipping, if it doesn't fit) trying the FSA triple is a tempting idea ... depends how tight cash is.

    I would switch all my bikes to Hollowtech if I could ... for different reasons, I don't think it is possible or profitable with a couple ... and frankly square-taper is about as bulletproof and as simple as can be. It is heavier, and it does impose some limits on crankset choices .... but I have stuck with it in a couple instances because it is so simple.

    I guess if it were me, I would look at the BB and see how much space there is between the edge of the BB shell and the crank arm. If it is more than about 3/8 of an inch you might have space for outboard BB bearings ... i.e. Hollowtech or any of its competitors (GPX, Mega Exo.).

    if it were me I would be Sorely tempted by the $50 FSA triple .... so tempted that I am actually going to the site and looking at it as soon as I post this.

  2. #27
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    412
    I looked at that triple .... a very good deal. However, note that Shimano uses (I think) 24 mm spindle and MegaExo is 19 mm. This means you will always be using FSA cranksets .... which is fine. I have one on my Fuji and it is as good as Shimano in my opinion/experience.

    I won't be bidding against you because I don't want to put a triple on my Fuji and i would want to have the option to switch between the double and triple on the other bike, my tourer/commuter/grocery bike.

    Only half an hour left, so snatch it up.

  3. #28
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    412
    For what it's worth I just picked up a new, but unboxed, Shimano Tiagra triple on Ebay .... whenever it arrives and when I have time I will stick it on the frame which has the double now and report back. Might take a while as I am busy ... and when I get free time, I really need to do more miles than more wrenching.

  4. #29
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    129
    Quote Originally Posted by Maelochs View Post
    Foer $50 (and probably $20 resell, after shipping, if it doesn't fit) trying the FSA triple is a tempting idea ... depends how tight cash is.

    I would switch all my bikes to Hollowtech if I could ... for different reasons, I don't think it is possible or profitable with a couple ... and frankly square-taper is about as bulletproof and as simple as can be. It is heavier, and it does impose some limits on crankset choices .... but I have stuck with it in a couple instances because it is so simple.

    I guess if it were me, I would look at the BB and see how much space there is between the edge of the BB shell and the crank arm. If it is more than about 3/8 of an inch you might have space for outboard BB bearings ... i.e. Hollowtech or any of its competitors (GPX, Mega Exo.).

    if it were me I would be Sorely tempted by the $50 FSA triple .... so tempted that I am actually going to the site and looking at it as soon as I post this.
    Square tape was ok for its time. I was racing on it when I first started out, so I always took it apart at the end of the season to repack it. Frankly working on it was a PITA though. I've gone through Superbe Pro & a bunch of Campy Chorus cranks since then. I even have a brand new, old stock Chorus lying around somewhere.

    Nothing though beats the outboard bearing design like Hollowtech, GXP, Mega-Exo or Ultra-torque for ease, durability & simplicity. Minimal tools to install it & once installed forget about it until it wears out. I've gotten 3 seasons out of one of my winter bikes that I ride through total crap & often times I don't/ can't be bothered to clean afterwards. 3 yrs of use with zero maintenance....life is good.

  5. #30
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    12
    So. I have now installed a new rear cassette ($40), that I always knew I would likely need, and the middle chainring ($20). And I basically have a 1x10 bike . Even before all this I had issues with the front chainrings and the spacing for shifting because of the spacing. An old 8 speed front using narrow 10 speed chain - it falls between the top 2 rings for example. Now it seems even worse at that problem. Very hard to get it to be on a ring. So $60 in, trying to figure out the bottom bracket / new crank set issue discussed above.

    Best I can actually measure mine, Chainline measured to the inside of the middle ring is 40.2 and to the outside is 43.5. The inner 3rd ring actually is slightly over the top edge of the bottom bracket.

    This link gave me some information on the RX100. Looks like Chinline is suppsoed to be 45 - or maybe 43.5....
    Shimano Front Bike Chainwheel Features Comparison - the Buyer's Guide, 2015

    Now - how do I figure out what to buy that will work with my set up and not spend much money... . Maybe i need a new front derailleur to help with smaller chain... .

  6. #31
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    412
    I am no bike mechanic but it sounds like the derailleur, not the chain, is the problem.

    The chain is like 3/128 of an inch narrower on the outside and the same width inside---the side plates are thinner. Therefore even if the chain is narrower, it will fit the chainrings ... and itf it is 3/128 too far to one side or another, it should still slide into place.

    More likely your front derailleur is misadjusted or your shifters are pulling the wrong amount of cable.

    I will read back through the trad when I have more time ... but i can assure you if the derailleur is dropping the chain between two rings ... the derailleur is dropping the chain between two rings. 11-speed chain should work fine about anywhere.

  7. #32
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    412
    I see you are using an 8-speed Deore derailleur? And I assume 6700 Ultegra shifters?

    I Think they should work together .... you should look it up online,. Google "cable-pull per shift---6703 Ultegra" and "cable pull per shift... 8-speed Deore front derailleur:" or something like that.

    I think the issue might be derailleur set-up. If you can't set the front derailleur up to hit the inner chainring .... why not? if it won't swing in far enough, you might need a wider BB. it could be a weak spring, or a bent mechanism or just the High-Low stops are misadjusted.

    Play with height above the chainring too. 52-42-30 is pretty standard, but I don't think the Deore was designed to handle more than 48 teeth. Did the front derailleur work perfectly before all this started happening?

    No, reading back I see it didn't. And it seems all your front-shifting problems started when you went to the Ultegra shifters.

    Could be cable-pull, could be derailleur set-up. Could be chain, but I honestly cannot imagine how or why. The chains are so close is overall width .... I know your bike isn't failing to shift over 1/64th of an inch.

  8. #33
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    12
    Well - I have things pretty bollixed up now.... my lack of repair skill set is shining through . So have one side of the crank removed, but the other side is stuck solid. Remover screwed in and then when I tried to remove - instead of pulling the arm, it ripped all the threads out.... So now I have to get it off some other way which may involve mass destruction.

    Ultimately now I need to replace crankset which I was headed to in trying to remove the old one. This $20 deal is now over $70 and no crank/bottom bracket bought. Thinking about this crank (or one similar to it - maybe a Tiagra if I can find one): https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-105...19.m1438.l2649

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-105...1438.l2649Will it work if I get a Hollowtech II bottom bracket ? I have reread all of the posts in this deal and still cannot figure it out

    And converting to a double would be a good option too - not touring on this bike any more - mostly will be trainer and road when I don't want to ride my Salsa Warbird and its bigger tires.
    Last edited by SlowestPoke; 4 Weeks Ago at 07:58 AM.

  9. #34
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: velodog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    6,072
    Quote Originally Posted by SlowestPoke View Post
    Well - I have things pretty bollixed up now.... my lack of repair skill set is shining through . So have one side of the crank removed, but the other side is stuck solid. Remover screwed in and then when I tried to remove - instead of pulling the arm, it ripped all the threads out.... So now I have to get it off some other way which may involve mass destruction.

    Ultimately now I need to replace crankset which I was headed to in trying to remove the old one. This $20 deal is now over $70 and no crank/bottom bracket bought. Thinking about this crank (or one similar to it - maybe a Tiagra if I can find one): https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-105...19.m1438.l2649

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-105...1438.l2649Will it work if I get a Hollowtech II bottom bracket ? I have reread all of the posts in this deal and still cannot figure it out

    And converting to a double would be a good option too - not touring on this bike any more - mostly will be trainer and road when I don't want to ride my Salsa Warbird and its bigger tires.
    Did you try to pull the crank before removing the retaining bolt? If so maybe there are enough threads left once the bolt is removed to get enough of the puller engaged to work. If not maybe one of these links will help.



    https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/
    Too old to ride plastic

  10. #35
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    12
    I did remember to remove the bolt first before trying to remove Need to find a loaner gear puller - that looks like it would work...

  11. #36
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    12
    Quote Originally Posted by SlowestPoke View Post
    I did remember to remove the bolt first before trying to remove Need to find a loaner gear puller - that looks like it would work...
    O'Reilly Auto Parts has loaner tools - tried two different ones and couldn't get it off. Sawzall to the rescue (so to speak - it didn't rescue the crank arm, its aluminum recycle now - rescued me getting it off).

  12. #37
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: Kontact's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    3,101
    Comments from a bike mechanic:

    All the concerns about cranks being "too wide" or whatever are totally off base. With Hollowtech cranks the chainline is guaranteed to be in spec because the spindle is built into the crank. There is no fudging - if you frame isn't compatible with the crank it won't even assemble.


    As far as "modern" equipment goes, none of the newer types of cranksets are actually more durable - Hollowtech type technology is there to lower weight by substituting a big tube for a narrow solid spindle. The old square taper BBs and cranks will usually last just as long if not longer.


    For the OP, it sounds like you have pretty much destroyed every cog and chainring on your drivetrain by using an excessively stretched chain. You'll have to be the judge. So if you think that just a 42 chainwheel and new chain will fix it, great. Such a chainring should be super easy to find for that type of crank. If not, find a crank/bb combination that suits your needs and buy them together. They won't be "too wide", they will be exactly as designed for a standard drivetrain. Get a Hollowtech or a square taper with the manufacturer's recommended BB spindle length/type.


    For crank pulling issues, not only do you need to insure that the bolt AND washer were removed from the crank, the puller needs to be very firmly cinched down into the crank threads with a wrench before the extraction starts.
    Get a better saddle: www.kontactbike.com

  13. #38
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: Lombard's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    5,527
    Quote Originally Posted by Kontact View Post
    Comments from a bike mechanic:

    All the concerns about cranks being "too wide" or whatever are totally off base. With Hollowtech cranks the chainline is guaranteed to be in spec because the spindle is built into the crank. There is no fudging - if your frame isn't compatible with the crank it won't even assemble.
    I have to question this. I bought a Deore touring crankset to convert my old hybrid from square taper to Hollowtech II. It installed just fine, but chain line was out of wack - chain slipped like crazy!

    I then tried the same conversion on a different bike, an older touring bike. Same thing! Installed just fine, but wouldn't play nice.
    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein

    "Beware of geeks bearing formulas."
    -- Warren Buffett

    "Education is what you get when you read the fine print. Experience is what you get when you don't. -- Pete Seeger



  14. #39
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    12
    This has been an attempt by me to learn more on an old bike that I wanted to keep despite dropping the cash for a new Salsa Warbird that I ride every day (while swearing I wouldn't waste money on my 23 year old Canondale...). I did admit to not being a bike mechanic.... (My Salsa gets it love from the Bike Shop Professional).

    That said, last night I completed the install of a used Ebay Shimano FC-5703 Triple Crank on the front with a Hollowtech II Bottom bracket it came with. While I still have some questions about some potentially missing O-Rings or washers, I took it out for a spin after some adjustment on the front derailleur and it seemed to work wonderfully with the new Chain and new 11-28 Ultegra 10 Speed Cassette. All more money than I wanted to spend, but what the heck - once you start a project, its hard to restrain yourself.

    I didn't trust it enough to ride this morning on my morning ride in the dark (by myself) but plan to ride it some this weekend just to check it all out.

    In the words of Queen, "And bad mistakes - I've made a few..." But I got it all off and new/used back on with only a few destructive techniques that would be considered unapproved. Still want to better understand the spacing comments/thoughts/suggestions above, but chain line seems good and it works in all sprockets and gears so far. Thanks for all your help - I will probably be back with spacer questions on this specific crankset....

  15. #40
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: Kontact's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    3,101
    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    I have to question this. I bought a Deore touring crankset to convert my old hybrid from square taper to Hollowtech II. It installed just fine, but chain line was out of wack - chain slipped like crazy!

    I then tried the same conversion on a different bike, an older touring bike. Same thing! Installed just fine, but wouldn't play nice.
    Chain slippage has nothing to do with chainline or compatibility. That sounds like worn out parts - chain or chainrings.
    Get a better saddle: www.kontactbike.com

  16. #41
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: Lombard's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    5,527
    Quote Originally Posted by Kontact View Post
    Chain slippage has nothing to do with chainline or compatibility. That sounds like worn out parts - chain or chainrings.
    Nope! Chain and cassette were new. Replacement chainrings were new and were the ones that didn't work in both cases. Old chain rings worked.
    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein

    "Beware of geeks bearing formulas."
    -- Warren Buffett

    "Education is what you get when you read the fine print. Experience is what you get when you don't. -- Pete Seeger



  17. #42
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: Kontact's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    3,101
    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    Nope! Chain and cassette were new. Replacement chainrings were new and were the ones that didn't work in both cases. Old chain rings worked.
    What does that have to do with crank and frame compatibility?

    I get that you had a problem, but you don't know what the problem is and have oddly decided it has something to do with chainline?
    Get a better saddle: www.kontactbike.com

  18. #43
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: Lombard's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    5,527
    Quote Originally Posted by Kontact View Post
    What does that have to do with crank and frame compatibility?

    I get that you had a problem, but you don't know what the problem is and have oddly decided it has something to do with chainline?
    So if it's not the chain line or frame compatibility, what is it? I'm all ears.
    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein

    "Beware of geeks bearing formulas."
    -- Warren Buffett

    "Education is what you get when you read the fine print. Experience is what you get when you don't. -- Pete Seeger



  19. #44
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: Kontact's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    3,101
    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    So if it's not the chain line or frame compatibility, what is it? I'm all ears.
    Good question. If I was able to put your bike in the stand I'd know. But even severe cross chaining doesn't cause what you describe, so chain line certainly isn't the cause.
    Get a better saddle: www.kontactbike.com

  20. #45
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    412
    Badly indexed derailleur could be trying to lift the chain a little while according to the brif ... er, "shifting mechanism" the bike was in gear....

  21. #46
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: Lombard's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    5,527
    Quote Originally Posted by Maelochs View Post
    Badly indexed derailleur could be trying to lift the chain a little while according to the brif ... er, "shifting mechanism" the bike was in gear....
    Nope. Derailleur is not interfering.
    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein

    "Beware of geeks bearing formulas."
    -- Warren Buffett

    "Education is what you get when you read the fine print. Experience is what you get when you don't. -- Pete Seeger



Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 17
    Last Post: 07-20-2015, 09:15 AM
  2. FD and Chain Ring Compatibility
    By brownSystems in forum Components, Wrenching
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 06-29-2015, 05:38 AM
  3. Campy chain ring shifting problem
    By Anderson in forum Components, Wrenching
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 06-18-2013, 11:10 AM
  4. Replies: 12
    Last Post: 03-02-2010, 06:12 PM
  5. Chain Ring Compatibility!
    By dewey in forum Components, Wrenching
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 06-29-2006, 07:24 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •