Results 1 to 16 of 16
  1. #1
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    193

    Cleat screw torque? Help..

    I just bought a new pair of Mavic Huez road shoes. As I prepare to attach my Look Keo cleats to them I have a question that has come to mind every time I put new cleats on any carbon soled shoes. That question is how tight do you tighten the cleat screws? The Huez in particular is a very thin carbon sole. So much so that the shoes come with special, shorter, screws. Any time I work with carbon parts I try to use my torque wrench. However in this case I don't know what torque value to torque the screws to. Any help?:??

  2. #2
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    89
    The instruction for the cleats say 5.5-6 Nm. I would hope that a shoe company as big as Mavic would take that into account when designing the sole for their new high end shoes

  3. #3
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    280
    OH. MY. GOD. It's a flipping cleat screw that tightens into metal threads. Cranks the b*tch down. If you need a torque reading for this, put the tools down, and step away from the bench.
    formerly "backinthesaddle"

    Strava is Latin for 'bench-racing"

  4. #4
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: JCavilia's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    14,586
    Quote Originally Posted by MMinSC View Post
    OH. MY. GOD. It's a flipping cleat screw that tightens into metal threads. Cranks the b*tch down. If you need a torque reading for this, put the tools down, and step away from the bench.
    Agree (not necessarily with the snark ;-). Basically, use as much force as you can apply with a screwdriver. FWIW, this is one of the places I almost always use blue Loctite. Twisting and vertical forces seem to make cleat screws especially prone to loosening.

  5. #5
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    193
    Okay, thanks guys (I think!). That's the info I needed....

  6. #6
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    89
    Yeah,
    Cranks the b*tch down
    is always good advice.

  7. #7
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    4,803

    I torque mine to 35in/lbs

    Quote Originally Posted by jrz1 View Post
    I just bought a new pair of Mavic Huez road shoes. As I prepare to attach my Look Keo cleats to them I have a question that has come to mind every time I put new cleats on any carbon soled shoes. That question is how tight do you tighten the cleat screws? The Huez in particular is a very thin carbon sole. So much so that the shoes come with special, shorter, screws. Any time I work with carbon parts I try to use my torque wrench. However in this case I don't know what torque value to torque the screws to. Any help?:??
    They have not slipped at that torque and has not damaged my carbon soles. I recheck them after the first ride or two

  8. #8
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Posts
    2

    Don't do what he said!!!!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by MMinSC View Post
    OH. MY. GOD. It's a flipping cleat screw that tightens into metal threads. Cranks the b*tch down. If you need a torque reading for this, put the tools down, and step away from the bench.
    Quite possibly the worst advice I have seen on a forum. Use the recommended torque. I saw 2 guys with $400 dollar shoes destroy them this weekend. Cracked the cleat lug. The lugs are made of cheap metal. DO NOT CRANK DOWN ON THEM!

    Cleat screw torque? Help..-img_20180422_130456.jpgCleat screw torque? Help..-img_20180422_130447.jpg

  9. #9
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: Oxtox's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    9,776
    Quote Originally Posted by raptor72 View Post
    Quite possibly the worst advice I have seen on a forum.
    the worst...?

    nah, not really. you can find all kinds of questionable suggestions on the net...like the necessity of pumping tires to the rated pressure, wearing two pairs of padded shorts, unclipping both feet when stopping, running red lights on the front, etc etc...

    one person's ideal solution is another's WTF...
    Ancient Astronaut theorists say, 'YES!'

  10. #10
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Posts
    2
    yeah but this one can immediately cost someone $300-$400 for absolutely no reason.

  11. #11
    Adorable Furry Hombre
    Reputation: Marc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    25,663
    Quote Originally Posted by raptor72 View Post
    yeah but this one can immediately cost someone $300-$400 for absolutely no reason.
    Most shoes, those lugs are user removable and replaceable. It will only cost $5 and not $400, unless you somehow manage to overtorque and crack the sole.
    "Refreshingly Unconcerned With The Vulgar Exigencies Of Veracity "

  12. #12
    .je
    .je is online now
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    869
    Look website doesn't have a torque spec. Shimano does ( it's 5-6 Nm ) I'd think the Look is the same.
    https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&sourc...bfaPVz0ux7H6pv
    https://www.lookcycle.com/notices/no...-CALES-KEO.pdf
    Unless things are different since 2012
    Last edited by .je; 4 Weeks Ago at 03:14 PM.

  13. #13
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation: Lombard's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    6,960
    Quote Originally Posted by Marc View Post
    Most shoes, those lugs are user removable and replaceable. It will only cost $5 and not $400, unless you somehow manage to overtorque and crack the sole.
    Costing $$ is not the primary issue here. If cleat screws sheer off, it could cause the rider to not be able to unclip and cause an accident. Ask me how I know.

    Torque specs are there for a reason. Any advice to just "crank that b*tch down" is DUMB, DUMB, DUMB!

    Though I have to admit, over torquing a headset is probably more dangerous in the grand scheme of things. So this may not be the WORST advice, but it runs close.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  14. #14
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    971
    Use a Ritchey torque rated at 5nm, check again in a week. Problem solved

  15. #15
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    30
    Quote Originally Posted by steelbikerider View Post
    Use a Ritchey torque rated at 5nm, check again in a week. Problem solved
    Good advice although even 5nm may be on the high end.

    Place a dot of red nail polish where the edge of the cleat screw contacts the cleat.

    That way a quick look will reveal if the fastening screw has moved.

  16. #16
    RoadBikeReview Member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    669
    This thread makes me sort of sad.

    It tells me the lost art of being a truly competent DIYer among the general public is becoming even more lost. This is especially true for what I've seen at a select few (not the majority) bike shops, where people who have never worked on anything in their life, there they are saying they've been trained and are now your 'certified' bike mechanic. Uhmm, sorry, no way. No frigging way.

    I grew up rebuilding all sorts of things, from Briggs & Stratton engines, to muscle engines, to model airplanes & cars, to refrigerators, to 3 channel televisions (lol), all the way to itty-bitty stuff like intricate glass pieces and/or eyeglasses. An early memory is watching my much older brother back in the late 60s tear down a Chevelle SS, both engine and transmission, with my Father approvingly looking on and supervising and me a runt just staring in awe, clutching a socket in my 5 yr old hands. As my Father used to say, there is nothing on this earth that any boy/girl/adult can't disassemble and then re-assemble, learning how it functions, operates and is put back together.

    Torquing cleat screws, whether your shoe soles are carbon, plastic-reinforced and/or fiberglass?? Hmmm, given that ALL shoes are torqued into a metal screw housing, a lifetime of muscle memory and tinkering, and, well, like I said, this thread makes me kind of sad.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT ROADBIKEREVIEW

VISIT US AT

roadbikereview.com and the ConsumerReview Network are business units of Invenda Corporation

(C) Copyright 1996-2018. All Rights Reserved.