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  1. #1
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    The Click From Hell

    Basically all clicks are from hell....mine seems to be from a deep part.

    Bike: Blue Prosecco EX Di2 carbon, 14 months old.
    Click started 3-4 weeks ago.
    Always clicks when drive side pedal is near the top. Doesn't always click in the exact same spot ...sometimes clicks twice on same pedal stroke.

    So...I checked all the obvious places:
    Bottom brkt..a bit loose..tightened
    Cr bolts...tight
    Derailleur attach..tight
    Der. hanger...fasteners a bit loose...tightened and greased mating surface
    Cassette lock ring...tight
    Pedals..tight

    Next day's ride after 5-10 miles click gradually got quieter. After about 15 no sound. Stopped for a bit with the group for a break. Click returned when I started riding.

    Took bike to LBS...mechanic said he could duplicate sound (with out pedaling) by heavily shifting his weight back and forth on the saddle.

    At his recommendation, I lubed the seat post (carbon assembly paste) and the internal seat binder w/lithium grease.
    After all this, the click remains.

    Got a loaner saddle and tried that...no luck
    Installed mtn bike pedals....click still there.

    Perhaps I'm missing something???? Anyone have any ideas?

  2. #2
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    Have you scanned your brain for the proto molecule?
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjbigcog View Post
    Basically all clicks are from hell....mine seems to be from a deep part.

    Bike: Blue Prosecco EX Di2 carbon, 14 months old.
    Click started 3-4 weeks ago.
    Always clicks when drive side pedal is near the top. Doesn't always click in the exact same spot ...sometimes clicks twice on same pedal stroke.

    So...I checked all the obvious places:
    Bottom brkt..a bit loose..tightened
    Cr bolts...tight
    Derailleur attach..tight
    Der. hanger...fasteners a bit loose...tightened and greased mating surface
    Cassette lock ring...tight
    Pedals..tight

    Next day's ride after 5-10 miles click gradually got quieter. After about 15 no sound. Stopped for a bit with the group for a break. Click returned when I started riding.

    Took bike to LBS...mechanic said he could duplicate sound (with out pedaling) by heavily shifting his weight back and forth on the saddle.

    At his recommendation, I lubed the seat post (carbon assembly paste) and the internal seat binder w/lithium grease.
    After all this, the click remains.

    Got a loaner saddle and tried that...no luck
    Installed mtn bike pedals....click still there.

    Perhaps I'm missing something???? Anyone have any ideas?
    Loose headset! Check shoe cleats. Try to isolate what causes the sound. Increase while under power? Spokes creak under power. Clicks in all gear combinations?

  4. #4
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    I would try a different seat post. Is yours carbon or alloy?
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  5. #5
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    It could be worn bb bearings, what type of bb does it have? When they wear the balls will get pushed out of their normal 'track' in the bearing race and click when they do that. Seems to happen more now w/ the smaller balls and larger crank axles than years ago w/ square taper cartridge bb.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjbigcog View Post
    Basically all clicks are from hell....mine seems to be from a deep part.

    Bike: Blue Prosecco EX Di2 carbon, 14 months old.
    Click started 3-4 weeks ago.
    Always clicks when drive side pedal is near the top. Doesn't always click in the exact same spot ...sometimes clicks twice on same pedal stroke.

    So...I checked all the obvious places:
    Bottom brkt..a bit loose..tightened
    Cr bolts...tight
    Derailleur attach..tight
    Der. hanger...fasteners a bit loose...tightened and greased mating surface
    Cassette lock ring...tight
    Pedals..tight

    Next day's ride after 5-10 miles click gradually got quieter. After about 15 no sound. Stopped for a bit with the group for a break. Click returned when I started riding.

    Took bike to LBS...mechanic said he could duplicate sound (with out pedaling) by heavily shifting his weight back and forth on the saddle.

    At his recommendation, I lubed the seat post (carbon assembly paste) and the internal seat binder w/lithium grease.
    After all this, the click remains.

    Got a loaner saddle and tried that...no luck
    Installed mtn bike pedals....click still there.

    Perhaps I'm missing something???? Anyone have any ideas?
    The bottom line is to grease all surfaces that contact each other. That is a pretty broad list, but I'm wondering if you have greased all the surfaces (and threads & washers) in the seat post clamp as well as the clamp on the seat tube.

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the replies!
    Headset was checked by shop...not loose
    Wheels aren't the problem..I put on another set...click was still there
    Pedals/cleats...nope...mountain bike pedals/shoes didn't change anything
    Seat post is carbon. I greased everything in the clamp area. I'm going to see if i can borrow another one and swap it.
    The bb bearings are probably another area that needs closer inspection. Will post results.
    Thanks again for the suggestions!

  8. #8
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    Does it click in all gears of the RD?
    of the FD?
    I think it's the FD. Out of adjustment and it's hitting the masterlink as the chain goes round. It's only 1 click off.
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  9. #9
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    Bike has probably 3000 miles since new...I would think bearings would last quite a bit longer. BB bearings are "press fit".

  10. #10
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    Clicks in both chain rings. Have not tried all combinations yet. Click is somewhat irregular,
    not like a link hitting the cage every rotation.

  11. #11
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    I have in the past used WD-40 to find annoying noises. Spray one item at a time and listen for a change. Works for most things but not all. Also makes a mess of things but its worth it in my opinion. Take a small bottle with you on a ride stop as many times as it takes till you find it.

    This is not a solution to the problem, only a way to find it.

  12. #12
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    I would check your Di2 trim settings, you may be off one click in the rear (if you get it in a lot of gears) and the chain intermittantly hits the adjoining cog.
    Bend down and look at the pulley from the rear of the bike, 2 ft above the ground and see if the pulley is lined up perfectly with the cog it is in.
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  13. #13
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by drj564 View Post
    I have in the past used WD-40 to find annoying noises. Spray one item at a time and listen for a change. Works for most things but not all. Also makes a mess of things but its worth it in my opinion. Take a small bottle with you on a ride stop as many times as it takes till you find it.

    This is not a solution to the problem, only a way to find it.
    This is one of the worst pieces of advice I've ever seen. Really. OP...do not squirt WD40 or any other lubricant all over your bike trying to find the noise.
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    It could be worn bb bearings, what type of bb does it have? When they wear the balls will get pushed out of their normal 'track' in the bearing race and click when they do that. Seems to happen more now w/ the smaller balls and larger crank axles than years ago w/ square taper cartridge bb.
    BB is another good possibility, even with square taper. I had a square taper BB go south in 4K miles.

    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    This is one of the worst pieces of advice I've ever seen. Really. OP...do not squirt WD40 or any other lubricant all over your bike trying to find the noise.
    This.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  15. #15
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    I had that very annoying problem and it was the pedal bearing. You can test this by taking your foot off one pedal at a time while continuing to pedal with the other foot and see if the click stops. As soon as I replaced the pedals the click stopped.

  16. #16
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    Check closely for frame cracks.

    "mechanic said he could duplicate sound (with out pedaling) by heavily shifting his weight back and forth on the saddle."

    That kills a lot of theories.

    In the case if my friend who had a click every revolution is was a frame crack in the BB area. But if it happens without pedaling probably not that but I would check around seat post clamp area for cracks.

    I saw where you tried a new seat but not a new seatpost. I'd do that too. I don't mean go out and buy one but see if the shop or someone can lend you one to ID or eliminate that as a suspect.

  17. #17
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    If the mechanic duplicated the problem by shifting his weight in the saddle, then it sounds like he is very close to diagnosing the source of the problem.

    Based on all the things you have tried, I think you are left with:
    1. Internal seat post binding clamp in the frame. I don't know this bike's particular design for the internal binder, but many are problematic and not readily remedied. You might be able to isolate this as a possible source by pushing and pulling on the seat post at various angles.
    2. Seat post clamp at the top of the post. You've swapped the seat, but some seat clamps, especially single bolt clamps can give problems. You might be able to isolate this by trying to pull the nose of the saddle up/down, or attempting to twist the seat from side to side. If in doubt, try a different (2 bolt) post.
    3. Bottom bracket. Cups could be loose in frame. Can the problem be duplicated while rocking weight back and forth while out of the saddle?
    4. Front der cable end is hitting the crank arm. It doesn't sound likely if mechanic duplicated issue just by shifting weight back and forth in the saddle.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjbigcog View Post
    Bike has probably 3000 miles since new...I would think bearings would last quite a bit longer. BB bearings are "press fit".
    Hmmm... My money is on that. Press fit BB's have been the source of many a creak.

  19. #19
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    Does this frame have a removable rear derailleur hanger? If so, take it off, grease on the interface and screws.

    Believe it or not!! I had this on an aluminum Santana tandem, chased it all summer. Finally was taking the bike apart to sent it back for a replacement and when I took the RD off, light bulb went on, allen wrench in the three tiny screws, they weren't real tight. Took it off, scraped paint, greased interface, click GONE. I had that bike completely apart 10 times but never that tiny little hanger!! That's my BEST click/creak WOW story in 40 years of bike tweaking!!

    Tom

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    This is one of the worst pieces of advice I've ever seen. Really. OP...do not squirt WD40 or any other lubricant all over your bike trying to find the noise.

    Curious as to why you say this.

  21. #21
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmach View Post
    Curious as to why you say this.
    I'd try to find the noise and fix it, not lubricate it.

    ETA: We know pretty much everything can make noise. What can you spray WD40 on and reasonably expect the noise to stop thus identifying it? I can't think of anything. I'd do lots of other things before I'd put lube on random spots and hope.
    Last edited by cxwrench; 06-16-2018 at 07:25 PM.
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  22. #22
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    I had a similar issue today. My FD cage was just slightly bent out and tapping the right pedal at the top of the stroke. Pushed it back in and it's fine.
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    I'd try to find the noise and fix it, not lubricate it.

    ETA: We know pretty much everything can make noise. What can you spray WD40 on and reasonably expect the noise to stop thus identifying it? I can't think of anything. I'd do lots of other things before I'd put lube on random spots and hope.
    Not to mention this is a great way to make a mess. Furthermore, WD-40 is not a lubricant, it is intended to free rusted and seized parts.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  24. #24
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    Not to mention this is a great way to make a mess. Furthermore, WD-40 is not a lubricant, it is intended to free rusted and seized parts.
    Well, it's oil and solvent...which is pretty much what every chain lube is. It's not supposed to free seized parts, it's a water displacer. It's supposed to keep things from getting rusty in the first place. There are much better penetrating oils for un-sticking things.
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    Well, it's oil and solvent...which is pretty much what every chain lube is. It's not supposed to free seized parts, it's a water displacer. It's supposed to keep things from getting rusty in the first place. There are much better penetrating oils for un-sticking things.
    Well, yes, it is oil and solvent. But it's way more solvent than oil. I think you would want something with a higher percentage of oil as a chain lube.

    WD= Water Displacer! Oh yeah, how could I forget? It does free seized parts from what I have found. I've used it on many a lawnmower blade or lug nuts to free them.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



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