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  1. #1
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    Clicking When Peddling

    Did not see this section first off, so posted in General then got smart assed, so re-posting here. NOTE: I always believe that if you don't have anything good to say, don't say it. A comment and BTW would do......

    Now to the clicking....

    1st, thanks to the replies!!!!

    The clicking is Right Side, around the 1-6 o'clock area, as of today and stuff done since General Post. The noise sounds like hitting the derailleur wire, but thats not the case and it's one long click, click. So I get click, click.... click, click.... and so on. When I do single foot peddling, it goes away, either side.

    What i did was, remembered I had a Thompson Post installed due to the fact that my S-Works Post doesn't accommodate a SMP Saddle very well. Was switching over to a new, smaller saddle and the tech said i should switch to the Thompson. So it was not lubed, did that!!!

    Lubed the Chain Ring screws!!

    WD40ed the two Return Rollers and other parts of both derailleurs!!!

    Went for a 30 mile spin and the "clicking" is still there, though not as loud. It's not there all the time. Mostly when I get to speed in the gear. When I stand up, IT GOES AWAY!!! It's something within sitting and being at speed in whatever gear i'm in.

    I've ruled out the cleats due to the Look ones being plastic and the noise from there is a squeak due to the cleat and peddle surfaces rubbing. I am switching from grey to the black though.

    I had the whole BB replaced because the noise started and it was loud!! So the shop cleaned it, and it still made the noise. Took it back and they broke it down and said I had the old races and Specialized updated them. I had the tech replace the bearings also. With the S-Works frame, which is internal, the tech wanted to change it, but could not, so was stuck with Specialized technology.....

    With the wheels, I run Fulcrum Zero Racing and changed my wheels, due to wear on my old Fulcrums and the noise was there before and after!!!

    I'm down to thinking the chain is the issue!! I wear headphones and had not noticed it before I put the RED Chain on. I also hear a lot of chain running noise. I'm one that changes it ever 2500 miles. I have had techs say it's still good, but I'll change anyway. Better to change $50-60 bucks than a couple of hundred :-)

    Googled and read a bunch of different write ups, but nothing came up about what I'm experiencing.

    Any other suggestions???

    Thanks,
    Ron

  2. #2
    Slowski
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    Although you say you ruled out the cleats, have you tried checking that they are torqued to 5-6 nm? That had helped me with a click/creek in the past.

  3. #3
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    A few suggestions that may seem strange, but worth a try:
    1) Remove pedals and grease/anti seize the threads and shoulder.
    2) same with stem faceplate bolts and stem cap/starnut bolt.
    4) same with seat post hardware and seat binder bolt.

    I've had strange creaks/clicks/noises that I could swear HAD to be associated with the drivetrain end up being cockpit related.


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  4. #4
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Wow, the real world must be scary if you think I 'smart-assed' you. It's also not very realistic to think that people will only say nice things to you, especially on the interwebs. Anyway, on to your noise...

    Check the pedals, Look Keo are well known to make noise if the part that screws into the pedal body isn't clean/greased/tight. The body and that piece are both basically plastic so they flex and don't stay tight.
    Check your cassette lockring just to rule that out, as well as the screw that hold the derailleur hanger on. I always grease the hanger/frame interface.
    If it happens the same place every pedal stroke it can't be the chain. Chainrings are in good shape, no bent teeth?
    I doubt it's the bottom bracket as that should get worse when you stand up.
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  5. #5
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    I just found that a click I had while pedaling was actually my pump was lose and touching my crank arm.
    Check every small detail!

  6. #6
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    Is it clicking regardless of large/small chainring? If only on large chainring, check clearance between FD cage and crankarm when shifted up, also check chainring bolts.




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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by RonH View Post
    Went for a 30 mile spin and the "clicking" is still there, though not as loud. It's not there all the time. Mostly when I get to speed in the gear. When I stand up, IT GOES AWAY!!! It's something within sitting and being at speed in whatever gear i'm in.
    When doing this and you ride with hands off the bar what happens?

  8. #8
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    CX can you elaborate on the Look Keos? I use the Keo 2 Max and am trying to understand the screw you are speaking of? Sorry for the hijack, OP.

  9. #9
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    Yea, look at the chainrings from the front & rotate them, looking at every tooth. I had some that got bent sideways.
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  10. #10
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by GKSki View Post
    CX can you elaborate on the Look Keos? I use the Keo 2 Max and am trying to understand the screw you are speaking of? Sorry for the hijack, OP.
    It's where the axle is held into the body of the pedal. You need a 19mm box wrench. One side is 6 point, the other is 12...can't remember which is which. Threads are reversed on one of them too. It's not 'a screw'.
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  11. #11
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    Anytime I have a noise that follows crank rotation I check to make sure the front and rear skewers are tight and all the way in the drop outs, has fixed clicks more than once for me.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by RonH View Post
    Went for a 30 mile spin and the "clicking" is still there, though not as loud. It's not there all the time. Mostly when I get to speed in the gear. When I stand up, IT GOES AWAY!!! It's something within sitting and being at speed in whatever gear i'm in.
    Sounds like something with the seat post. Carbon bike? Carbon paste the post and torque to spec.
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  13. #13
    gazing from the shadows
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    Sounds like something with the seat post. Carbon bike? Carbon paste the post and torque to spec.
    Could also be the saddle rails. Where they clamp, or even where they enter the saddle front or rear. Those points can be the location of squeaks and creaks.
    .
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by QuiQuaeQuod View Post
    Could also be the saddle rails. Where they clamp, or even where they enter the saddle front or rear. Those points can be the location of squeaks and creaks.
    Absolutely. I had a post once that did this. It drove me nuts trying to track down that creak!
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by QuiQuaeQuod View Post
    Could also be the saddle rails. Where they clamp, or even where they enter the saddle front or rear. Those points can be the location of squeaks and creaks.
    Agree, posted that in the other thread before we got told to get off the lawn there. I'd suggest a light smearing of carbon prep to help with the bits clamping to each other.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    It's where the axle is held into the body of the pedal. You need a 19mm box wrench. One side is 6 point, the other is 12...can't remember which is which. Threads are reversed on one of them too. It's not 'a screw'.
    Hmmm...as far as my Keo 2 Max goes, the axle is secured in the pedal body with a "multi-pointed" star fastener. I put a caliper on the star and got 21mm.

    I can see where noise problems could develop tightening cro-moly into a nylon/plastic pedal body. I've serviced Shimano metal clipless pedals and the Look metal 396s, but not sure I would want to pull the axles on this Keo 2 Max. I guess I could remove it enough to grease some of the threads then tighten to torque (although I don't think Look has published that). Still, looks like it takes a wrench bigger than 19mm.

  17. #17
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    I've diassembled a old pair of Keo Carbon Max with 10k+ miles on it and all the internals looked quite good, if everything feels good, I'd leave it alone.

  18. #18
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    I suggest a light lubing of your QR skewers or thru axles including the dropouts...

  19. #19
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    Play around day 2; Knew I had lube on the Skewers, but decided to apply some more, won't hurt. Before I put the back wheel on, I decided to check the attached Wheel Bracket and low and behold, the screws where loose!!! Tightened them, road 40 miles today, no noise!!!!! Had never checked that before, now it's on the list.

    THANKS for all the help/suggestions!!!! Was appreciated :-)

  20. #20
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    what is a "attached Wheel Bracket" and how did it get there?
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  21. #21
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    I run the Look Keo Blade Titanium. Very simple to take apart and lube. Has one sealed bearing and one needle bearing.

  22. #22
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    smart ass

    CXWRENCH, You did it again!! "Wow, the real world must be scary if you think I 'smart-assed' you." Look, you did, when all you said was I should have posted here, instead of General. I guess no one actually told you how to talk to someone. All you need to do was add your suggestions, THEN at the end add BTW, there is ....... Would have worked better and I wouldn't have been insulted. People come to these boards looking for help, but if posters just get tight assed on stuff, being way to struck, then people will get turned off and go away to another site. Once you get past that stuff, then you are actually very helpful. You might want to stick to the helpful part........
    Last edited by RonH; 3 Weeks Ago at 03:58 PM. Reason: needed to add to whom

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by duriel View Post
    what is a "attached Wheel Bracket" and how did it get there?
    Sorry, my bad. The rear derailleur bracket. Had a brain fart and couldn't remember what it's called.

  24. #24
    Huge in Japan
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    Derailleur hanger?
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  25. #25
    Russian Troll Farmer
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    Not to be pedantic here, but isn't "peddling" the action of selling merchandise? "Pedaling" is what you do with a bicycle.

    Just sayin'.............
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