Haven't you just pulled your dropouts out of parallel? Step 2 of properly cold-setting a steel frame is using a set of dropout alignment tools to get the dropouts lined back up. I don't know what your disc adaptors are like, but if they attach to the dropouts you may find you have substantial alignment issues. Could be shifting issues too.
Haven't you just pulled your dropouts out of parallel? Step 2 of properly cold-setting a steel frame is using a set of dropout alignment tools to get the dropouts lined back up. I don't know what your disc adaptors are like, but if they attach to the dropouts you may find you have substantial alignment issues. Could be shifting issues too.
I seriously doubt it, but I will let you know. - TF
"Don't those guys know they're old?!!"
Me, off the back, at my first 50+ road race.
TT,
Don't give in to the metalurgists!!! The history majors out here are in awe of your very ballsy move!! I only wish you had video taped the proceedings. Watching you ratchet the come along to bend that beautiful ti frame...sort of like going to the Coliseum to watch the lions eat the Christians!! You just can't look away... Hope it all works out (it most likely will). MacGyver'd be proud.
TT,
Don't give in to the metalurgists!!! The history majors out here are in awe of your very ballsy move!! I only wish you had video taped the proceedings. Watching you ratchet the come along to bend that beautiful ti frame...sort of like going to the Coliseum to watch the lions eat the Christians!! You just can't look away... Hope it all works out (it most likely will). MacGyver'd be proud.
SPG
They aren't engineers - I'm the engineer. Engineers get things done within useful tolerances. - TF
"Don't those guys know they're old?!!"
Me, off the back, at my first 50+ road race.
winstonc - rack/fender question: Since I needed pictures for Mr. matanza, I took a couple to show the rack/fender mount. Yes it is the Litespeed adapter from their web site.
In picture 1, you can see the the two bolts on the right hold the adapter on the drop out. The one on the left doesn't do anything (bolt is there to keep the threads clean) and my guess is that it is for fender/rack mounting??? You can also see the indentation in the top of the drop out where I cut the old mount off.
Pic 2 is from the rear and you can see that you would really have to modify the rails to go around the caliper to mount anything.
TF
"Don't those guys know they're old?!!"
Me, off the back, at my first 50+ road race.
They aren't engineers - I'm the engineer. Engineers get things done within useful tolerances. - TF
Yeah, every LBS should have a big set of maple trees out in back so they can cold-set
their customers expensive frames to useful tolerances, the engineering way
I had to do that with a few LS frames that didn't come straight from the factory (this was in the mid 90s). If I remember right they were much easier to yank on than steel frames but kind of, well, weird and it was harder to tell what I was doing. They seemed to come out okay but I didn't have a lot of confidence they would stay that way over time.
Yeah, every LBS should have a big set of maple trees out in back so they can cold-set
their customers expensive frames to useful tolerances, the engineering way
No, they should have two big-a$$ frame spreader tools that two guys can grab and spread it. I'm just a "back-yard" mechanic. - TF
"Don't those guys know they're old?!!"
Me, off the back, at my first 50+ road race.
but I was only wondering that since everyone was talking about alignment etc. The proof is in sticking the wheel in ein't it? Well, how 'bout it? ;)
It doesn't have to be aligned or parallel to get the wheel in. In fact, I cannot see why parallel would make any difference unless is was way off - much farther than this small change could make it. You just align the D hanger it's ready. If the frame is out of alignment, it won't track straight. - TF
"Don't those guys know they're old?!!"
Me, off the back, at my first 50+ road race.
I really think you could build a cheap frame spreader that could
would by turning a threaded leadscrew that could be positioned between
your chain stays. As you turn out the adjustment nuts on either side
positioned against your drop-outs your frame stays would spread apart
slowly. One can also mount a cheap dial indicator to monitor
on-the-fly adjustment progress. I could build something for under $10 not
including the dial indicator. Thanks for getting me to think about this
design project.
I really think you could build a cheap frame spreader that could
would by turning a threaded leadscrew that could be positioned between
your chain stays. As you turn out the adjustment nuts on either side
positioned against your drop-outs your frame stays would spread apart
slowly. One can also mount a cheap dial indicator to monitor
on-the-fly adjustment progress. I could build something for under $10 not
including the dial indicator. Thanks for getting me to think about this
design project.
1 - It will have to have something to hook it around the frame or it will not stay in the drop outs. If it comes flying out...
2 - You can measure the spread with a ruler. Why would you need a dial indicator? Your looking at about 60mm delta - a ruler is way close enough.
3 - What makes you think that this would be any better/more precise than the come-along.
I don't think you are getting the idea of what is happening here.
TF
"Don't those guys know they're old?!!"
Me, off the back, at my first 50+ road race.
Took another from the left side. If you have more questions, just ask. - TF
EDIT: Also note that the QR lever can only point down. I may go to a non-QR just because I really don't like the looks of this. - TF
Yikes, you could have sent that bad boy to Litespeed and they would have happily welded a Disc mount on there. Seen it done many times with their MTB frames.
Yikes, you could have sent that bad boy to Litespeed and they would have happily welded a Disc mount on there. Seen it done many times with their MTB frames.
They would have just welded on the one I bolted on. - TF
"Don't those guys know they're old?!!"
Me, off the back, at my first 50+ road race.
No offense taken - no sorry needed. They might actually weld one on top, but this works great so far. I would still have to spread the frame or pay them to do it. - TF
"Don't those guys know they're old?!!"
Me, off the back, at my first 50+ road race.
1 - It will have to have something to hook it around the frame or it will not stay in the drop outs. If it comes flying out...
2 - You can measure the spread with a ruler. Why would you need a dial indicator? Your looking at about 60mm delta - a ruler is way close enough.
3 - What makes you think that this would be any better/more precise than the come-along.
I don't think you are getting the idea of what is happening here.
TF
Sheldon Brown has spreding instructions that suggest use of a 2x4 piece of wood. I like his method since each stay can be bent independant of the other which will assure the alignment is not messed up.
I was ripped off by a former member of Roadbikereview with over 4000 posts! Click the link below for details.
LinkBack URL
About LinkBacks
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by bikeboy389
Quick Set
