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  1. #1
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    Converting 10 speed hub to 11 speed hub.

    So I have wheels that use Bitex hubs, the rear as noted is 10 speed. Does anyone know if I want to upgrade to 11 speed system if I can replace the current smaller 10 speed freewheel with a larger, 11 speed compatible freewheel and keep my current wheelset.

    I know that Bitex uses 6 pawls for engagement in the rear, some replacement freewheels I've found have 4 pawls, does this matter? My current groupset is 6700 Ultegra.
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  2. #2
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    Likely the answer is yes, but I suggest sending an email with a picture of your hub to Brandon of Bikehubstore to confirm. He sells Bitex hubs and freehubs.
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  3. #3
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    Thanks for the info.
    "The consequences of life's dildos rarely come lubed."

  4. #4
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    I think you need to re-dish to wheel in order to align chain and RR to work correctly
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by ROAD&DIRT View Post
    I think you need to re-dish to wheel in order to align chain and RR to work correctly
    This is a myth that got out of hand and seems impossible to kill. The "generic" hubs that came with either Shimano or Campy freehubs, as did Bitex and many others, already had the space for 11-speeds. There is zero change in the overall width of the hub and zero change in the centerline. They are 130 mm to start and 130 mm after the new freehub is put on.

    A Shimano hub (actual Shimano, not "Shimano compatible") goes from 130 mm to 131 mm when converted, moving the centerline of the wheel by 1/2 a mm or about 2/100 of an inch. I'd bet that the vast majority of wheels are not built this accurately in the first place.
    We just don’t realize the most significant moments of our lives when they’re happening
    Back then I thought “well there'll be other days”
    I didn’t realize that was the only day
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9yrupye7B0

    There's sometimes a buggy.
    How many drivers does a buggy have?
    One.
    So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
    and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerjulio View Post
    This is a myth that got out of hand and seems impossible to kill. The "generic" hubs that came with either Shimano or Campy freehubs, as did Bitex and many others, already had the space for 11-speeds. There is zero change in the overall width of the hub and zero change in the centerline. They are 130 mm to start and 130 mm after the new freehub is put on.

    A Shimano hub (actual Shimano, not "Shimano compatible") goes from 130 mm to 131 mm when converted, moving the centerline of the wheel by 1/2 a mm or about 2/100 of an inch. I'd bet that the vast majority of wheels are not built this accurately in the first place.
    I can vouch for that. I did exactly what the OP wants to do & I did contact the manufacturer of my wheels first & was told no dishing was required. Installed new 11speed freehub & cassette fit like a glove. Easiest install ever.

  7. #7
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    But the real question is how do you plan to use an 11 speed cassette on a 6700 Ultegra system? It isn't that easy.
    use a torque wrench

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by MMsRepBike View Post
    But the real question is how do you plan to use an 11 speed cassette on a 6700 Ultegra system? It isn't that easy.
    Quote Originally Posted by Flexnuphill View Post
    I want to upgrade to 11 speed system
    He wants to upgrade his system and is asking if he can upgrade his wheel set to go with the upgrade I believe.
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  9. #9
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    Okay, I see that now.

    Well if you're upgrading the entire groupset, there are other options for the wheel.

    First option, of course, is to do nothing to it.

    There are cassettes out there that run 11 cogs on a 10 speed freehub. Edco makes a pretty famous monoblock one that a lot of people use. Shimano makes an 11-34 Ultegra cassette now that fits and the 11-speed MTB cassettes fit.

    So OP, what size cassette do you run?

    As for the wheel being able to just swap freehubs... I don't know that one. I too would call Brandon and ask him personally seeing how he has a lot of experience with those hubs.
    use a torque wrench

  10. #10
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    Do you have the older SL218 (10sp) hub? If so then the 11sp FH body will drop in and 'work' but it was not designed for that hub. I tried this years ago when BHS was transitioning from the SL218 to the current SL210. It worked, but after about 1k miles the pockets where the pawls sat in the FH body were destroyed. I didn't spend much time looking into it since I was about change to a disc brake bike. I rebuilt the wheels with a spare set of hubs I had laying around and sold the whole setup a few months later.
    What the failure looked like to me, was that the placement of the pawls in the FH body did not match the placement of the notches in the hub body. So instead of all (or three of the six) pawls making simultaneous contact, only one was while the others were just shy of touching. If I was right, then that meant that only one pawl took all the pedaling force at a time and mushroomed the pocket in the FH body, and then the problem cascaded through the others until the thing seized up fixed gear style in the middle of a CX race.
    To this day, it's the only failure of it's kind I've seen with BHS hubs and I was warned ahead of time by Brandon that it may not work perfectly so I don't blame him or the hub in any way. Things may have changed in that time or I could have just be a one-off failure. Either way, that was my experience doing what you're asking about.

  11. #11
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    I contacted the wheel builder, just as it's been suggested the fix is a simple freehub swap, no dishing required... that sounds like a Phil Collins album.
    "The consequences of life's dildos rarely come lubed."

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