Creaking Large Chainring
Ok this is starting to get on my nerves.
i've had this creaking/rubbing (unsure which really) sound on my 13T and 14T cogs. since my group was on my old bike. the group is practically new (bought oct).
at first i thought it was coming from the cassette so i had it torqued to near the proper spec (40nm). When I rode this morning, the creak now extended to the 15T cog! so i now had 3 noisy cogs instead of 2 after increasing the torque!
Funny thing is the largest cog (12T) is not creaking at all.
Now here's the fun part... i switched cranks this morning as well and when i went up against some hills this morning i noticed that the same gears are quiet when on the small chainring which led me to conclude that the noise is crank related.
considering that i was hearing this noise using the outboard BB (BB-9000) and now internal BB's, i doubt if the bottom bearing is the problem. However, when using external BBs, the noise was on the (then) 11T and 12T cogs and is only heard when im off the saddle. i've since switched chains, cranks and cassettes over the past four months and the noise is still there.
(edit) creaking only happens when I apply power on the crankside pedal. Normal noise when I power down on the other pedal
the one consistent thing is the mechanic.
any help/suggestions are highly appreciated.
Last edited by mann2; 03-10-2013 at 07:26 AM.
Reason: Mode detail
Sounds radiate and can be deceptive on their source. I've solved bb creak by removing my seatpost, cleaning it, and then installing it with the right torque. The gears you describe require some torque to turn. Your sound could be handlebars, stem, pedals, saddle, or even the wheel. For a crank related noise, you could always loosen and then re-torque the chainring bolts.
Originally Posted by mann2
First: the 12t is the small cog, not the large cog.
Originally Posted by mann2
It is fairly common to have clicking noises, but ticks and clicks are very hard to eliminate sometimes. What seems like it is tied to the pedals may be coming from the seat post, etc. Sometimes things like temperature and humidity can affect noises as well. Also, things like the front derailleur cage just hitting the crank, loose bottle cage bolts, or the front derailleur cable sticking out and hitting your shoe can seem like they are clicks but really aren't. Another thing to consider is that the frame and components are flexing from pedaling forces, and so you can get a click or creak sound where you think it couldn’t be – for example the seat post & clamp can make noise even when you are standing and pedaling due the frame flexing. Here’s a link if you don’t like reading the rest of this post: Bicycle Touring Tips, Lessons Learned, and Tricks of the Trade
Clicks tied to your pedaling can come from
- BB (grease all threads in contact with the frame and BB, all metal to metal contact surfaces, and torque to the recommended settings, which can be quite high), the faces of tapered BB axles if they have a little corrosion
- bolt holding the BB cable guide onto the frame (grease threads and make sure the bolt is not touching the BB shell inside the frame)
- crank bolts (grease threads and washers)
- chain ring bolts (take them all out and grease the threads, the faces where they contact the CRs, and the CRs where they contact the crank spider arms)
- a dirty chain, inadequately lubed chain, stiff link in a chain or a burr on one of the "break off" special links used to assemble the chain
- front derailleur clamp (clean and put a light film of grease on the inside of the clamp where it touches the seat tube)
- the pedals (grease the threads and the shoulders of the axle where it butts against the crank arm, get some wax, silicone etc. on the cleats, check for play in the bearings, squirt some lube into the guts of the pedal machinery if possible)
- shoes/cleats - loose cleat nut rattling around in the shoe sole, shoe/cleat interface, cleat bolts, cleats touching pedals (wax lube, silicone, or furniture polish)
- seat post and saddle (grease the post, seat post bolts, saddle rails, and add some oil to where the rails go into the saddle body)
- bars and stem (grease the stem where it clamps to steerer or goes into the steerer if quill type, top cap, stem bolts at both ends, h'bar bolt if quill stem, and h'bar where it goes through the stem)
- grease/tighten QRs and where the hub axle contacts the frame
- tighten cassette lock ring, grease cassette hub body and cassette spacers
- grease steerer tube spacers (if threadless)
- replaceable derailleur hangers (remove, clean, grease all parts and threads, reassemble)
- any other bolt (bottle cages, derailleur clamps, derailleur bolts, shift cable casing stops, etc.)
- cables hitting the frame (cable donuts), or shifting in their end ferrules (lube contact points).
Wheels can make noises when pedaling or coasting (check for spoke tension, particularly on the rear non drive side, put a drop of lube where each pair of spokes cross and where each spoke enters the rim and the hub flange, check for loose metal bits or spoke nipples in the body of the rim and cracks in the rim at spoke holes.).
ok thanks for the suggestions guys. looks like im gonna have go through the checklist ;)
First: the 12t is the small cog, not the large cog. <- true. i meant 'high' gear/cog.
Last edited by mann2; 03-10-2013 at 07:53 PM.
Creaking Large Chainring
I had a drive side creak that happened under strong torque. After disassembling the whole drivetrain and greasing many times, sure that it must be crank related, one day it suddenly changed from a creak and click to a loud thunk - the hairline fracture in the chainstay had snapped all the way through!
Kerry's last suggestion is golden: years ago I had clicks and ticks on my bike and I damn well tore it apart and regreased everything: bottom bracket, hubs, headset, handbar/stem, even redid the freehub.
Turns out the ticking was from the spokes where they crossed. Now when I pull a bike down from the rafters, if I haven't ridden it for a while, the first thing I do is lube the spokes where they cross and give them all a good retensioning squeeze. It's quick and easy. Then I don't have to worry about any clicking emanating from the spokes.
okay im gonna try this first! thanks!
Originally Posted by Bill Silverman
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