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  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    If you're a triathlete, or if you know any triathletes...please, tell them to pay more attention to their equipment. I work on dozens of bikes that belong to 'competitive' (not sure what that means to them) multi sport athletes and only one of them gets proper care and maintenance.
    Most of them seem to train indoors because we all know there aren't enough hours in the day to train for 3 sports outdoors, work, and have a life. This means they sweat on their bikes more than if they were outside. Most seem completely oblivious to the concept of 'corrosion', even after we've told them many times. The following photos were taken just a few months after the last service I did on this bike. The brake cables were so corroded the lever wouldn't return and I had to spray the rear wedge w/ PB Blaster more than once before putting it in the soft jaws to yank the cable out w/ pliers. The bars were wiped down w/ WD after the last cleaning, same corrosion is back.



    We used to have a triathlete who came into the shop who didn't use chamois cream, he just used vaseline. He smeared it all over the bottom of his seat. Every so often you'd forget when he brought his bike in and stick your hand under there to pick the bike up, and immediately go wash your hands.

  2. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by masont View Post
    We used to have a triathlete who came into the shop who didn't use chamois cream, he just used vaseline. He smeared it all over the bottom of his seat. Every so often you'd forget when he brought his bike in and stick your hand under there to pick the bike up, and immediately go wash your hands.
    WTF! How much freaken Vaseline did he use that it oozed through his shorts and under his seat? Just reminds me to examine carefully before I sit on anything.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  3. #78
    A wheelist
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    Here is a pin out of a chain on a bike I fixed. The chain was elongated a whopping 3/8" over 12" where 1/16" is usually the "replacement" limit. It was on a recreational rider's mountain bike. The chainring teeth were worn to nubs. He stood on the pedals to accelerate and the chain skipped a few chainring teeth. He went over the bars. I replaced everything - chain (duhh!), all 3 rings and cassette.

    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by Mike T.; 1 Week Ago at 07:06 AM. Reason: Photo added.
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    Mike T's home wheelbuilding site - dedicated to providing Newby wheelbuilders with motivation, information and resources.

  4. #79
    Russian Troll Farmer
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike T. View Post
    ......
    Acchhhh the photo didn't upload. I'll try to fix it laterzz.
    Downsize the photo. There is a limit on the # of pixels.
    "L'enfer, c'est les autres"

  5. #80
    A wheelist
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    Quote Originally Posted by No Time Toulouse View Post
    Downsize the photo. There is a limit on the # of pixels.
    In this case it was nothing to do with the pic size or # of pixels. The full size of that pic is a tiny 3KB. It's the RBR photo uploader that isn't working. I uploaded to Photobucket instead.
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    Mike T's home wheelbuilding site - dedicated to providing Newby wheelbuilders with motivation, information and resources.

  6. #81
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    This could end up being expen$ive...

    It's very happy right where it is and I haven't started thinking about whether I want to go directly to the 'power tools' solution.

    I work for some bike racers
    I've got some bikes, some guns,
    and a bunch of skateboards

  7. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    This could end up being expen$ive...

    It's very happy right where it is and I haven't started thinking about whether I want to go directly to the 'power tools' solution.

    And maybe replace it with a thru-axle that doesn't require a hex wrench.

    Jeez, that sucks, some nice DA rotors on there, too. What kind of bike?

  8. #83
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    would a JB Welded wrench work? TBH though it's shagged.

  9. #84
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    Will an easy out, screw\bolt extractor, work?
    Too old to ride plastic

  10. #85
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveG View Post
    Why do people want to convert others to their chain lube regiment? Its like chain lube Jehovah Witnesses.
    Quote Originally Posted by SPlKE View Post
    Exactly. That's why I keep telling people... forget the homebrew, forget all those fancy new chain lubes. Get ProLink, the one and only Best Chain Lube. ProLink... It's got what chains crave.
    Quote Originally Posted by velodog View Post
    Will an easy out, screw\bolt extractor, work?
    I'm really not sure what I'm going to try first. The right side is the threaded end and that's what is stuck. The left side is the tool end. I'd like to try from the stuck end if possible but not sure what to put in there that won't slip/spin.
    I work for some bike racers
    I've got some bikes, some guns,
    and a bunch of skateboards

  11. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    I'm really not sure what I'm going to try first. The right side is the threaded end and that's what is stuck. The left side is the tool end. I'd like to try from the stuck end if possible but not sure what to put in there that won't slip/spin.
    How about a self tapping screw\bolt that would bottom out and allow you to keep tightening, pushing \unthreading the axle?
    Too old to ride plastic

  12. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    I'm really not sure what I'm going to try first. The right side is the threaded end and that's what is stuck. The left side is the tool end. I'd like to try from the stuck end if possible but not sure what to put in there that won't slip/spin.
    Sorry, hiccup caused a double post.
    Too old to ride plastic

  13. #88
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by velodog View Post
    How about a self tapping screw\bolt that would bottom out and allow you to keep tightening, pushing \unthreading the axle?
    Not a bad idea, I'll see what I can find!
    I work for some bike racers
    I've got some bikes, some guns,
    and a bunch of skateboards

  14. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    Not a bad idea, I'll see what I can find!
    We had this at work one time, and we wound up jamming a cheap flathead screwdriver into the widest part of the hex bolt to unscrew it. Yeah, we had to replace the screw in the end, but the screw is screwed anyway.
    I lost my phone number. Can I have yours?

  15. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by velodog View Post
    How about a self tapping screw\bolt that would bottom out and allow you to keep tightening, pushing \unthreading the axle?
    THAT is NOT going to WORK!
    BANNED

  16. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by old_fuji View Post
    We had this at work one time, and we wound up jamming a cheap flathead screwdriver into the widest part of the hex bolt to unscrew it. Yeah, we had to replace the screw in the end, but the screw is screwed anyway.
    That. Or you can dremel a slot. Sometimes you can use an SAE/metric in a rounded out metric/SAE and get a tight enough fit to get it going.

    Making a slot then using an impact driver (if needed) is pretty much the way I end up dealing with most stripped fasteners. After trying other things first, which sometimes work. But they never work when I am under time constraints for some reason.

    BTW, looks like someone has NO IDEA what 10 Nm feels like.
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  17. #92
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveG View Post
    Why do people want to convert others to their chain lube regiment? Its like chain lube Jehovah Witnesses.
    Quote Originally Posted by SPlKE View Post
    Exactly. That's why I keep telling people... forget the homebrew, forget all those fancy new chain lubes. Get ProLink, the one and only Best Chain Lube. ProLink... It's got what chains crave.
    Today's nastiness:



    Obviously this could be a lot worse but this was off to a bad start. If you train indoors, or sweat a lot, or both...wash your bike regularly and change your damn bar tape more often than once every 3 years. It's not safe as corrosion can go unchecked for months if not years, and it smells like ass.
    I work for some bike racers
    I've got some bikes, some guns,
    and a bunch of skateboards

  18. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    Today's nastiness:



    Obviously this could be a lot worse but this was off to a bad start. If you train indoors, or sweat a lot, or both...wash your bike regularly and change your damn bar tape more often than once every 3 years. It's not safe as corrosion can go unchecked for months if not years, and it smells like ass.
    I don't think I've ever had bar tape last 3 years. It usually deteriorates well before that.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  19. #94
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveG View Post
    Why do people want to convert others to their chain lube regiment? Its like chain lube Jehovah Witnesses.
    Quote Originally Posted by SPlKE View Post
    Exactly. That's why I keep telling people... forget the homebrew, forget all those fancy new chain lubes. Get ProLink, the one and only Best Chain Lube. ProLink... It's got what chains crave.
    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    I don't think I've ever had bar tape last 3 years. It usually deteriorates well before that.
    In all honesty it should be changed every 3-4 months.
    I work for some bike racers
    I've got some bikes, some guns,
    and a bunch of skateboards

  20. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    I don't think I've ever had bar tape last 3 years. It usually deteriorates well before that.
    Depends on how little you ride. My first real roadbike, I passed on to family. It probably has only seen 20 miles of riding in the many years since, and done little more than sit on a garage floor ever since. Of course...the upside to black bar tape is it hides wear/staining....the downside is that you quit noticing how socked with sweat/salt the tape gets until you try to remove it.
    "Refreshingly Unconcerned With The Vulgar Exigencies Of Veracity "

  21. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc View Post
    Depends on how little you ride. My first real roadbike, I passed on to family. It probably has only seen 20 miles of riding in the many years since, and done little more than sit on a garage floor ever since. Of course...the upside to black bar tape is it hides wear/staining....the downside is that you quit noticing how socked with sweat/salt the tape gets until you try to remove it.
    Wise words. I usually notice how ridiculously overdue for a tape replacement I am when I'm about 5 miles into my ride.

    Then I forget.

    I have a box of fizik microtex (my long time favorite) tape waiting in my bike parts bin. It's been so long... it might have gotten permanent creases in it inside the box.

  22. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    In all honesty it should be changed every 3-4 months.
    Should months or miles be the factor? I have to admit I probably change mine about every 2 years. Never had a problem. I guess I'm not much of a hand sweater. My head certainly sweats as my skull cap and helmet are evidence of.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  23. #98
    tlg
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    Should months or miles be the factor? I have to admit I probably change mine about every 2 years. Never had a problem. I guess I'm not much of a hand sweater. My head certainly sweats as my skull cap and helmet are evidence of.
    Same here. In the hot humid summers though my gloves will be saturated in sweat where I can wring them out.
    I can easily get 2 years (10k mi) from bar tape.
    Custom Di2 & Garmin/GoPro mounts 2013 SuperSix EVO Hi-MOD Team * 2004 Klein Aura V

  24. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlg View Post
    Same here. In the hot humid summers though my gloves will be saturated in sweat where I can wring them out.
    I can easily get 2 years (10k mi) from bar tape.
    I ride about 3K miles per year and it is spread out on different bikes. The bike I ride the most gets about 2K miles per year.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  25. #100
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    The worst part of the job is dealing with foul, old, putrid tape. And good old specialized clear gel pads underneath the tape, make me want to wear a Hazmat suit. Ugh!!!!!

    Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

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