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  1. #1
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    Dura-ace 9000 mechanical cables - Where?

    I've been looking at new cables, and have found Blue Sky have the new DA9000 brake cables down to $20, but cannot find the 9000 shifter cables (which apparently have much less friction than DA7900).

    Are they out? I read they retain the SP-41 outer, but have a new super slippery inner. I can't see them listed anywhere.

    Thanks.

  2. #2
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    i've always liked the SRAM pitstop cables, they seem to be a little smoother than Shimano. i'm sure they'd work just fine. the difference between the 'smoothest' and the 'least smooth' cable is pretty minor. remember...they're just cables. you don't have to use the 9000 cables. not even Shimano would design a shifter that had it's own specific cable, and would not work w/ anything else.
    i work for some bike racers...
    2013 Trek Madone 5.9 w/ '12 SRAM Red
    2010 Cervelo T1 sprint bike
    Ruger 10-22TD
    Smith&Wesson M&P 15-22
    Smith&Wesson M&P 9
    oh, those belong in another forum

  3. #3
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    Had a chance to see and feel the new 9000 cables at a demo two weeks ago. They are very slippery. Shimano says it was required to reduce friction of the extra bends created with the new under bar shifter cable routing.

    I too am sure other cable will work but they sure were slippery. They also said the coating will stay on the cable unlike the aftermarket coated cables. Guess time will tell. I did see where the coating was rubbing at the rear derailleur barrel and the cable was still very slippery there. At first glance it seems to be good stuff.

    Curious as to how spendy they will be.

  4. #4
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    Thanks, I'd like to give the 9000's a go though. The brake ones are down from $45 to $20 at BlueSky, so matching gear cables should be about $45 at full price. I'm interested because Shimano went PTFE coated to improve shifting with 7900 under bar routing, but found the PTFE came off. So this is their considered and improved solution ... should be good stuff.

    I'll probably order some from BlueSky (shame the shipping is $8 and I have to pay tax too ... ) and look out for the shifter cables. Seems odd that they're 'needed' to get the most from DA-9000, yet you can't buy them (I literally cannot find them listed anywhere). I can find the DA-7900, but they're the ones reported to have issues (over medium/long term?) with PTFE balling up.

    Thanks

  5. #5
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    the coating on the inner wire is similar to the gore coating. assuming cervelo used the shimano cables. the sharp bend as the cable exits the RD frays to coating too.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    i've always liked the SRAM pitstop cables, they seem to be a little smoother than Shimano. i'm sure they'd work just fine.
    So when you're wrenching on a bike with 7900 shifters and the end user wants the optimal results what is your 'go to' cable? the SRAM Pitstop?

  7. #7
    VKW
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    I'm curious if blue sky actually has them in stock or if they are listed but for preorder. I have read some threads about them listing items out of stock and not letting customers know the item is on back order until the customer asks why they haven't received the item.

  8. #8
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    They are only showing stock of the brake cables / housing.
    Now I too am on the HUNT for the der. cables.

    Bluesky takes order by ph. so you can always confirm stock status before hand.
    This mssg brought to you by Mr. Bananas.

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  9. #9
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    Thanks for the info on BlueSky being ... well, not exactly Jenson/Competitive/CRC in terms of upfront advertising of stock levels. I'll look to order from bluesky anyway (frustrating that it's $20 + $9 shipping + $2 tax ... I was going to get two sets to cut the cost down, but still works out to a big percentage as shipping). These cable's aren't holding up a build, just going into the spares bin ready for the next strip and rebuild of the bike.

    My 'go to' cables (I only seem to work on Shimano systems these days, working on my bikes and half a dozen friends bikes) are Dura-ace 7700/7800 kits. I have picked up a cheap goodridge kit, but not fitted yet. Gore look interesting, SRAM too, but I've found myself going to Shimano for more and more things these days.

    If the new DA-9000 cables can be had on special (say $30 a set delivered ...), then they'll likely become my new go to cables (which assumes the performance/life is as made out in the release articles). I know the 'go to' question wasn't directed at me.

  10. #10
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by metoou2 View Post
    So when you're wrenching on a bike with 7900 shifters and the end user wants the optimal results what is your 'go to' cable? the SRAM Pitstop?
    not sure when the 'end user' would not want optimal results, but yes...we use SRAM Pitstop shift cables for everything except Campy.
    i work for some bike racers...
    2013 Trek Madone 5.9 w/ '12 SRAM Red
    2010 Cervelo T1 sprint bike
    Ruger 10-22TD
    Smith&Wesson M&P 15-22
    Smith&Wesson M&P 9
    oh, those belong in another forum

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    not sure when the 'end user' would not want optimal results
    Well there are those among us that claim some sort of conspiracy where the LBS has it in for the consumer. It's some bigger plan.

    Kidding aside; my wording for that question was weak and lacking. A shop near my house will pull cables from a huge bundle of bulk cables on a 'routine' job. I think they are Jagwire, decent cables. Then if the customer wants to pay a premium the techs will cable a Shimano equipped bike using the individually carded, Shimano Dura Ace shift cables.
    That was my question, "what is your premium go to cable"?

    And I got my answer, thanks.
    This mssg brought to you by Mr. Bananas.

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  12. #12
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    O.k. so back to the O.P.'s question........................

    who is selling the Dura Ace 9000 shift cables?
    This mssg brought to you by Mr. Bananas.

    Shouldn't it be called a 'nipple wrench'?

  13. #13
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by metoou2 View Post
    Well there are those among us that claim some sort of conspiracy where the LBS has it in for the consumer. It's some bigger plan.

    Kidding aside; my wording for that question was weak and lacking. A shop near my house will pull cables from a huge bundle of bulk cables on a 'routine' job. I think they are Jagwire, decent cables. Then if the customer wants to pay a premium the techs will cable a Shimano equipped bike using the individually carded, Shimano Dura Ace shift cables.
    That was my question, "what is your premium go to cable"?

    And I got my answer, thanks.
    ahhh, the old 'shop mechanic conspiracy'...a lot of times there is something to that.

    we used to sell the D/A 'kit' every now and then, and also the individual D/A cables, but it was pretty rare that a customer would want to pay the premium. we do stock Campy cable/housing sets as well as single Campy brake and shifter cables. for whatever reason, most Campy customers seem to want their bikes done w/ the full kit.
    i think i've probably influenced a number of our customers and convinced them that if they're riding a lot they need to replace their cable/housing on a regular basis. they usually ask "what do you use?", and my reply is to show them the SRAM cables/housing on my bike. once they feel how smooth it shifts and know that it's reasonably priced, they are fine w/ it. because i've been a team mechanic for so long, i've come to view cables/housing as something that should be replaced fairly often to maintain optimal shifting performance. it's cheap, and it's easy. i'm also a fan of keeping my bar tape fresh so it doesn't smell like ass, so i do both every few months.
    i've tried the D/A cables, i've used Gore, Nokon, Yokozuna, Jagwire...you name it. no one in particular is really any better than the rest. the Pitstop cables are 1.1mm instead of the Shimano 1.2, and they're also a little bit smoother. they've always worked well for me, so i will continue using them. i do use the newer Gore liners on my bikes, just to keep them smooth through the bb cable guide and to keep the dirt/moisture out of the housing. they're super easy to install, lemme know if you want a photo.
    i don't lubricate the new cables/housing either. i probably could since i use the liners, but i've got into the habit of not doing it.
    i work for some bike racers...
    2013 Trek Madone 5.9 w/ '12 SRAM Red
    2010 Cervelo T1 sprint bike
    Ruger 10-22TD
    Smith&Wesson M&P 15-22
    Smith&Wesson M&P 9
    oh, those belong in another forum

  14. #14
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    As a small bike shop owner with over 30 years wrenching experience it always astounds me that most cyclists cheap out when it comes to cables, housing, & ferrules/endcaps. The quality & installation of these hardworking components make such a difference regarding shift & brake performance; and the cost to upgrade to stainless cables, Yokozuna/Ripcord housing, and brass/aluminum ferrules is usually less than $15. There is no "shop mechanic conspiracy" and the shop is doing the customer a disservice if it doesn't advise the customer to pay the few extra bucks (Now, of course, we're talking about better quality bikes that are ridden a bunch).

    If you use good stuff, install it properly, inspect it regularly, and keep your bike clean you don't need to replace it very often at all.

    cxwrench, a couple things - the Pitstop cables come in 1.2mm & 1.1mm diameters and it's best to use Campy specific derailleur cables because the ends are a bit smaller.

    I work for some bike racers too...
    '79 Lugged Columbus SL with full vintage Campy Super Record & Cinelli
    '96 American Classic ti with 9-speed Campy & eclectic build (Very light)
    '10 Van Dessel WTF, currently set up as a gravel fondo bike
    '12 Bianchi Vigorelli w/Infinito full carbon fork,Campy Record 11 & matching Brooks kit
    '12 Bianchi San Jose SS 'cross
    '12 Handsome "Shop Bike" light-weight coaster brake speedster
    '10 Ellsworth Moment 69'er (And very light too)
    '88 American Breezer mtb
    '90 Team Fat Chance mtb
    '86 Crotch Rocket mtb

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by reptilezs View Post
    the sharp bend as the cable exits the RD frays to coating too.
    Shimano need to make a tapered exit for the cable, the coating is getting chewed up and won't last long like this.

    (pic from bikeradar)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Dura-ace 9000 mechanical cables - Where?-000-da9000-frayed-cable-coating.jpg  

  16. #16
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by refund!? View Post
    As a small bike shop owner with over 30 years wrenching experience it always astounds me that most cyclists cheap out when it comes to cables, housing, & ferrules/endcaps. The quality & installation of these hardworking components make such a difference regarding shift & brake performance; and the cost to upgrade to stainless cables, Yokozuna/Ripcord housing, and brass/aluminum ferrules is usually less than $15. There is no "shop mechanic conspiracy" and the shop is doing the customer a disservice if it doesn't advise the customer to pay the few extra bucks (Now, of course, we're talking about better quality bikes that are ridden a bunch).

    If you use good stuff, install it properly, inspect it regularly, and keep your bike clean you don't need to replace it very often at all.

    cxwrench, a couple things - the Pitstop cables come in 1.2mm & 1.1mm diameters and it's best to use Campy specific derailleur cables because the ends are a bit smaller.

    I work for some bike racers too...
    '79 Lugged Columbus SL with full vintage Campy Super Record & Cinelli
    '96 American Classic ti with 9-speed Campy & eclectic build (Very light)
    '10 Van Dessel WTF, currently set up as a gravel fondo bike
    '12 Bianchi Vigorelli w/Infinito full carbon fork,Campy Record 11 & matching Brooks kit
    '12 Bianchi San Jose SS 'cross
    '12 Handsome "Shop Bike" light-weight coaster brake speedster
    '10 Ellsworth Moment 69'er (And very light too)
    '88 American Breezer mtb
    '90 Team Fat Chance mtb
    '86 Crotch Rocket mtb
    yeah, i know about the Tefzel coated 1.2mm cables and i don't like them too much. i've never seen a coated cable that didn't become at least partially uncoated real quick.
    if you're talking about Campy needing Campy specific cables, yes...good advice. you have to use Campy(compatible) cables for both brake and shift when you're working w/ Campy shifters.
    i'll never back off from recommending cable/housing replacement at fairly regular intervals. keeping them clean is only part of the deal. they do fray as you know, and w/ the newer shifters that all have under-the-bar-tape shift housing it's not possible to inspect the cable as you could before w/ Shimano. i'd rather keep my bikes shifting perfectly and not have to worry about a tired cable breaking when i'm 30mi from home. it's too cheap and easy to leave them on the bike for more than 6-9mos for me, and i don't put more than 4-5000mi a year on any bike.
    i work for some bike racers...
    2013 Trek Madone 5.9 w/ '12 SRAM Red
    2010 Cervelo T1 sprint bike
    Ruger 10-22TD
    Smith&Wesson M&P 15-22
    Smith&Wesson M&P 9
    oh, those belong in another forum

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    lemme know if you want a photo.
    Now who doesn't like a photo?
    Among the (20) or (30) pics I know you're willing to post could ya include one of the cable routing guide under the shell?
    I think I know what you're describing. Sounds like you're running about 3 or 4 in. of housing liner thru that cable router.
    This mssg brought to you by Mr. Bananas.

    Shouldn't it be called a 'nipple wrench'?

  18. #18
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    here are the liners i have now, they're the older style w/ the ferrule included. the new liners just have a little black plastic flange thing on the end and you run the liner through a Gore ferrule.
    Dura-ace 9000 mechanical cables - Where?-2ae4b65e-2e32-423b-8707-46a3e9e45300-2313-0000012284c19bb1.jpg
    i've use shorter pieces of liner like you're talking about just through the guide, that works great w/ internal routing. currently i've got full length liners from where the housing enters the down tube. you can see it very well because of the SRM magnet, but you get the idea.
    Dura-ace 9000 mechanical cables - Where?-44b02e13-cc17-478b-8df5-051037f0618f-2313-000001265c3ace94.jpg
    i work for some bike racers...
    2013 Trek Madone 5.9 w/ '12 SRAM Red
    2010 Cervelo T1 sprint bike
    Ruger 10-22TD
    Smith&Wesson M&P 15-22
    Smith&Wesson M&P 9
    oh, those belong in another forum

  19. #19
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    thanks CX
    This mssg brought to you by Mr. Bananas.

    Shouldn't it be called a 'nipple wrench'?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cinelli 82220 View Post
    Shimano need to make a tapered exit for the cable, the coating is getting chewed up and won't last long like this.

    (pic from bikeradar)
    I had never paid close attention to the angle of that der. cable.
    I have (2) bikes that look just like this pic.
    This mssg brought to you by Mr. Bananas.

    Shouldn't it be called a 'nipple wrench'?

  21. #21
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    I inspected some other bikes we own.

    Dura-ace 9000 mechanical cables - Where?-img_3539.jpg

    This is a (9)spd 6500 r. der.
    I set the chain on the (12) tooth cog and the cable ran a nice straight path from the exit point on the der. to the clamping bolt.
    I set the chain on the (25) tooth cog (the biggest cog), and again the cable ran a nice straight path.
    (no comments about the need for washing, it's actualy dust on a bike that doesn't see much action)


    Dura-ace 9000 mechanical cables - Where?-img_3540.jpg

    This is a (9) speed r. der. on my CX bike.
    Same results as above. The cable always ran a straight path to the clamp bolt.


    So whats up with that sever angle seen on the more modern designs?
    I suppose they calculate that a stainless steel cable rubbing the alloy of a der. body is inconsequential?
    Why not stay with the straight cable path design.
    This mssg brought to you by Mr. Bananas.

    Shouldn't it be called a 'nipple wrench'?

  22. #22
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    Anyone found an on-line source for the new D. Ace 9000 shift cables?
    This mssg brought to you by Mr. Bananas.

    Shouldn't it be called a 'nipple wrench'?

  23. #23
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by metoou2 View Post
    Anyone found an on-line source for the new D. Ace 9000 shift cables?
    QBP still doesn't show them yet. usually they have a part#/description/eta up for something like that, but they don't even exist in the catalog yet. the brake cable/housing are on the catalog but show an eta of 4/19/13.
    i work for some bike racers...
    2013 Trek Madone 5.9 w/ '12 SRAM Red
    2010 Cervelo T1 sprint bike
    Ruger 10-22TD
    Smith&Wesson M&P 15-22
    Smith&Wesson M&P 9
    oh, those belong in another forum

  24. #24
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    April for the brake cable is way out there.

    I sent a mssg to Ribble and they replied;

    Good afternoon,
    Thank you for your email.
    I can confirm that we will be getting this, however at this moment in time we do not have a new delivery date.
    We do apologise for any inconvenience caused.
    This mssg brought to you by Mr. Bananas.

    Shouldn't it be called a 'nipple wrench'?

  25. #25
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    I ordered three sets of the brake cables from BlueSky. Before ordering, I emailed and got this response.

    ''Hello,

    The housing and cables are Dura-Ace. The imprinting on the cable housing reads: Shimano BC-9000.

    If you have any further questions, please feel free to email or call us 1-800-585-4137

    Regards,

    Tech Team''


    Hopefully they're the real deal. I ordered some Dura-ace 7700/7800/7900(non-PTFE) shifter cables from amazon (seller Xtreme Bike & Sport), however they were black and not the grey I need (okay, 'want') to match the brake cables. So I've sent them back. They were listed as gray.

    This whole chasing up cables has been a huge pain, so if the BlueSky ones are genuine, I'll get a heap more and the same when the shifter cables come out (and are on special). I don't want to have to chase genuine shimano cable kits again ... I now see a major advantage in electronic ... no more changing cables!

    Regards

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