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  1. #26
    changingleaf
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    I'm updating this old thread with my solution.

    2015 Cannondale Supersix with SI crank and Press fit BB30.

    The bottom bracket area has been creaking for over a year. I've tried everything.

    In my situation none of the following changes made the slightest improvement:

    Took apart and reassembled chainring bolts.
    Took off pedals and reinstalled tightly with grease.
    New chain.
    Took apart the bottom bracket 15 to 20 times and tried combinations of 1, 2, 3, and 4 spacers.
    Tried loctite on cups.
    New bearings.
    New SRAM bottom bracket that has a plastic sleeve inside the bearing which is a barrier between the crank spindle and the bearings.
    New cassette
    New wheel
    Different skewer
    New derailleur hanger, which makes no sense, but I saw a video to try it so I did.

    By the way you need all of proper tools to take off the crank arm and replace the bearings and I'm pretty sure very few people have the tools to take the crank arms off. Still nothing worked.

    I finally found a video that explained that the chairing spider on the SI crank can make the slightest movement and cause creaking so it should be loctited with #609.

    I didn't have this tool so I bought one and took the crank apart again and removed the spider and cleaned the interface with soap and water and again with isopropal alcohol to be sure. Then I applied the loctite #609 to the spline interface and the locknut threads and tightened it down and reassembled the crank.

    I then waited two days to ride it, which was more than enough time to allow the loctite to dry. Success! No creaking. Two very hard rides since the loctite fix on the chainring spider and no creaking at all. Not a peep.

    I hope this can help some of you who may have the same creaking issue.

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by changingleaf View Post
    I'm updating this old thread with my solution.

    2015 Cannondale Supersix with SI crank and Press fit BB30.

    The bottom bracket area has been creaking for over a year. I've tried everything.

    In my situation none of the following changes made the slightest improvement:

    Took apart and reassembled chainring bolts.
    Took off pedals and reinstalled tightly with grease.
    New chain.
    Took apart the bottom bracket 15 to 20 times and tried combinations of 1, 2, 3, and 4 spacers.
    Tried loctite on cups.
    New bearings.
    New SRAM bottom bracket that has a plastic sleeve inside the bearing which is a barrier between the crank spindle and the bearings.
    New cassette
    New wheel
    Different skewer
    New derailleur hanger, which makes no sense, but I saw a video to try it so I did.

    By the way you need all of proper tools to take off the crank arm and replace the bearings and I'm pretty sure very few people have the tools to take the crank arms off. Still nothing worked.

    I finally found a video that explained that the chairing spider on the SI crank can make the slightest movement and cause creaking so it should be loctited with #609.

    I didn't have this tool so I bought one and took the crank apart again and removed the spider and cleaned the interface with soap and water and again with isopropal alcohol to be sure. Then I applied the loctite #609 to the spline interface and the locknut threads and tightened it down and reassembled the crank.

    I then waited two days to ride it, which was more than enough time to allow the loctite to dry. Success! No creaking. Two very hard rides since the loctite fix on the chainring spider and no creaking at all. Not a peep.

    I hope this can help some of you who may have the same creaking issue.
    Very interesting.

    Those splines creak because the interface is too complicated. The crank spider splines aren't perfectly mated to the splines on the BB spindles, so they creak. Some of them, like Shimano Octalink, even had minimal amounts of press fit, yet still creaked.

    Square taper BB interfaces never creaked unless they came loose. Then you could snug down the crank bolt and they wouldn't creak. The square taper press fit was simple enough to eliminate all "soft" spots that would creak under power.

    I think they went to splines and then to BB30s, mainly to satisfy the gods of lightweight. Loctite to the rescue!

  3. #28
    changingleaf
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    Just to clarify, it was not the spline on the crank spindle that creaked. The creaking was from the interface of the spline between the chainring spider and the right crank arm. The spindle spline has never been an issue, at least for me. I never put loctite on the spindle spline, it is tapered.

  4. #29
    tlg
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    Quote Originally Posted by changingleaf View Post
    I didn't have this tool so I bought one and took the crank apart again and removed the spider and cleaned the interface with soap and water and again with isopropal alcohol to be sure. Then I applied the loctite #609 to the spline interface and the locknut threads and tightened it down and reassembled the crank.

    I then waited two days to ride it, which was more than enough time to allow the loctite to dry. Success! No creaking. Two very hard rides since the loctite fix on the chainring spider and no creaking at all. Not a peep.
    I imagine that will solve your problem. However I wouldn't plan on ever removing your Spidering. You likely permanently glued it. #609 is not the right loctite. It's a high strength loctite used on motor shafts and press fit sleeves. LOCTITE 609 - Retaining compound - Loctite

    #242 is removable thread loctite and recommended by Cannondale.
    https://www.cannondale.com/~/media/F...nstr_1012.ashx


    FWIW, I've never used loctite on mine. Just grease and torque and never had a problem.
    Custom Di2 & Garmin/GoPro mounts 2013 SuperSix EVO Hi-MOD Team * 2004 Klein Aura V

  5. #30
    changingleaf
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    I know it's the high strength stuff. I hope permanent means permanent end to creaking. I've heard that the 242 can loctite can still wear out and result in creaking again.

  6. #31
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    It's always amusing to find a creak that HAD TO BE the bottom bracket and finally some other weird cause is found. I swear pressfits don't creak as much as people say they do.

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by nhluhr View Post
    It's always amusing to find a creak that HAD TO BE the bottom bracket and finally some other weird cause is found. I swear pressfits don't creak as much as people say they do.
    True, they're the current design nicely suitable for carbon frames, but they still creak more than the old cup and cone BBs and square tapered crank-BB interface.

    Press fit never made sense to me. Why press fit a device that rider will pump up and down with his legs? You want that thing threaded into the BB shell. Torque it down properly and it'll stay put.

  8. #33
    tlg
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fredrico View Post
    True, they're the current design nicely suitable for carbon frames, but they still creak more than the old cup and cone BBs and square tapered crank-BB interface.

    Press fit never made sense to me. Why press fit a device that rider will pump up and down with his legs? You want that thing threaded into the BB shell. Torque it down properly and it'll stay put.
    Meh, I remember the days of wrapping teflon tape around the threads of square BB's to stop them from creaking.

    The press fit design is perfectly fine if implemented correctly. Unfortunately it's often not. Pumping your legs has nothing to do with it.
    The tolerances need to be correct. Which really isn't that hard, but often they are wrong.
    An aluminum shell is a poor housing to press steel bearings into. It's just asking to creak.
    Press fit bearings needs sufficient axial load to keep the bearings in place. Most cranks don't have enough to keep the bearings secure.
    Using adapters for smaller axle sizes just adds to the problems.
    Custom Di2 & Garmin/GoPro mounts 2013 SuperSix EVO Hi-MOD Team * 2004 Klein Aura V

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlg View Post
    Meh, I remember the days of wrapping teflon tape around the threads of square BB's to stop them from creaking.
    Yep - And loctite too.

    I always chuckle at statements that threaded bottom brackets did not creak.

  10. #35
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    My 2014 Time NXS never creeks. One issues is BB30 isn't typically well executed in mass produced frames. The tolerances are not easy to hit. I also have Hawk Racing bearings which are excellent.

  11. #36
    tlg
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notvintage View Post
    The tolerances are not easy to hit.
    Not that hard. The tolerance is +.001"/-.000".

    All you need is the right size reamer. You can nail that tolerance all day long.
    41.96mm is the BB30 bore size, and there's a reamer for it since it's a 42mm bearing.
    https://hughroper.co.uk/collections/taps/products/41-96mm-hss-taper-shank-reamers-h5-tolerance

    The reamer will produce an H5 Tolerance hole. Which is +0.0004"/-.000". (half the required tolerance).
    Custom Di2 & Garmin/GoPro mounts 2013 SuperSix EVO Hi-MOD Team * 2004 Klein Aura V

  12. #37
    Neophyte
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    Creaky CAAD10/CAAD12 seems to be a pretty common issue, good luck... some have said the creaking is more likely on alloy frames.

    I have a friend that has dealt with it for 2 years, has had the BB completely replaced twice but the creak comes back.
    Last edited by jetdog9; 1 Week Ago at 02:09 PM.

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by crit_boy View Post
    Yep - And loctite too.

    I always chuckle at statements that threaded bottom brackets did not creak.
    The problem was 1/10th as frequent as with BB30s. The threaded BBs that creaked were all on mass produced bikes, usually from not "facing" the BB shell to make sure the parts will be perfectly aligned when torqued down. Un-faced BB shells would frequently creak. We'd disassemble the parts, face the BB shells, put them back together with plenty of grease, and they wouldn't creak.

    Loctite indeed. Loctite's always the bailout when the parts don'f fit together and all else fails. Cup and cone BBs threaded into properly faced BB shells didn't creak. That was what I discovered over the years, between 1990-2015, meching in several shops. Threads would hold. Press fits didn't. Blame it on the materials. I blame it on giving customers inadequately designed product following the never ending holy grail of lightweight. There are two places not to go "lightweight:" the head tube and BB shell. For evidence, look around.
    Last edited by Fredrico; 1 Week Ago at 02:14 PM.

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