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  1. #1
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    is it even possible for a BB30 crankset to go longer than a week without creaking?

    please let me know if anyone has experienced one of these mythical beasts. kthx.
    * not actually a Rock Star

  2. #2
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    My '12 Focus Izalco, bought "open box", came with SRAM Force, and did not creak the season I had it. Replaced with Campy (68X42), and has yet to creak, going into its 2ND season, with me @ 180lbs., and regularly go up 10-15% grades.

  3. #3
    Adorable Furry Hombre
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    Friends don't let friends buy pressfit or BBXXX bottom bracket framesets.

    OTOH, in your case aren't your knees already creaky? Would you therefore even notice a singing BB?

  4. #4
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    I have a bike with the original Cannondale Si crankset released in 2001, before they even called it BB30. Prolly have over 10,000 miles on it (as third owner, I've put over 7,300 mi on it). The only creaks came from loose crankarm bolts. Maybe I have a unicorn?

    The minimal crankarm extraction threads on this first gen crankset have been stripped on both arms, so I couldn't service the bearings even if I wanted to. So far, I haven't needed to.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Creakyknees View Post
    please let me know if anyone has experienced one of these mythical beasts. kthx.
    What crank?

    In my experience the BB30/Shimano interface is the predominant creaking problem. Everyone with BB30 creaks I come across have a Shimano crank. Once I switched mine to a threaded BB30 adapter I never had a creak again in thousands of miles.

    My Cannondale SISL2 with BB30 never creaks.

    In my professional opinion, the BB30 design requires a significant side thrust to keep them secure enough from creaking in the shell. Shimano cranks have virtually no side thrust. The crank fixing nut is only finger tightened. Whereas the Cannondale crank is torques to 30ft-lbs. That's a considerable difference.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlg View Post
    What crank?

    In my experience the BB30/Shimano interface is the predominant creaking problem. Everyone with BB30 creaks I come across have a Shimano crank. Once I switched mine to a threaded BB30 adapter I never had a creak again in thousands of miles.

    My Cannondale SISL2 with BB30 never creaks.

    In my professional opinion, the BB30 design requires a significant side thrust to keep them secure enough from creaking in the shell. Shimano cranks have virtually no side thrust. The crank fixing nut is only finger tightened. Whereas the Cannondale crank is torques to 30ft-lbs. That's a considerable difference.
    Not just what crankset, but what frame.

    If the frame BB hole ain't perfect, then the crankset choice is all but irrelevant...as just about any post-sq-taper crank will creak. And that is the problem since PF was invented explicitly to save the manufacturer money in precision tooling.

  7. #7
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    ok thanks guys, in my case it's a caad10 with SRM spider on Cdale si cranks, so we've got bolts and adapters all over the place.

    going to yank it all and go native to see if that helps.
    * not actually a Rock Star

  8. #8
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    My SuperSix evo hi-mod has Parlee adapters and an Ultegra 6800 crankset. So far so good.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Creakyknees View Post
    please let me know if anyone has experienced one of these mythical beasts. kthx.
    I've got around 3000 miles on an Orbea Orca with Sram Red BB30. No creaks thus far.

  10. #10
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    I have 2 bikes, both with Shimano cranks in BB30 frames, using Praxis BB conversions.... no creaking here.
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  11. #11
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    BH G5 with BB30 shell. No creaking.
    Kona Jake The Snake with PF30 shell. No creaking.
    Trek Superfly FS with BB95 shell. No creaking.
    and then a couple of BSA shelled frames with traditional threaded bottom brackets.

    Of course, what all these bikes have in common is they are fitted with Shimano cranksets with appropriate BBs. In the case of the BH, it's the Parlee style (pressed in cups with their own correct-sized bearings to accomodate the Hollowtech II crank). On the Kona, it's the Wheels Manufacturing PF30-Out thread-together bottom bracket that makes a Hollowtech II fit a PF30. The Trek is native Shimano fitment as it is, since BB95 is meant for 24mm cranks already but I included it since it too is pressfit.

  12. #12
    tlg
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    Quote Originally Posted by nhluhr View Post
    In the case of the BH, it's the Parlee style (pressed in cups with their own correct-sized bearings to accomodate the Hollowtech II crank).
    Consider yourself lucky. My BH with cups/bearings creaked like crazy. Grease only helped short term. Loctite only a little longer. Threaded BB adapter fixed it.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlg View Post
    Consider yourself lucky. My BH with cups/bearings creaked like crazy. Grease only helped short term. Loctite only a little longer. Threaded BB adapter fixed it.
    It's likely whoever installed your cups the first time didn't do it properly with Loctite 242 (per BH Tech Notes). Removing and reinstalling only makes the tolerances worse so on the third install with loctite, it was already too late. I'd say press-in things are basically single-use only, which is why the thread-together was your solution. Personally, I prefer the thread-together style since it specifically keeps both bearings square to each other and the inherent lateral loading of an outboard adapter doesn't cause those press fittings to want to shimmy in there. Truly superior design.

    So yeah, I'd agree, I am lucky my BH adapters were installed correctly from the start since it's mechanically a lesser design than the BB30-Out or Praxis type adapter bottom brackets.

  14. #14
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    While we're on this topic, does PF30 tend to creak less than BB30?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by deviousalex View Post
    While we're on this topic, does PF30 tend to creak less than BB30?
    In general, yes, because the delrin cup of a PF30 bottom bracket takes up some of the slop in tolerances that seem to be typical.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by nhluhr View Post
    In general, yes, because the delrin cup of a PF30 bottom bracket takes up some of the slop in tolerances that seem to be typical.
    FWIW my Parlee FP30 to HollowTech II BB is metal pressed directly into a carbon shell.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Creakyknees View Post
    please let me know if anyone has experienced one of these mythical beasts. kthx.
    Been there, done this. SL4 Roubaix BB30 with HT-II adapters, multiple Shimano cranks too. I wound up using very thin O-Rings between the adapters and crankset. Sold the bike after 6 months of no noise [from that]. However, the internal cable housing that was a full run for the [rear disc] brake tapping the speaker that was the Downtube was also very aggravating. I ordered a custom steel frame with thread BB and normal cable routing and have completed my path back to the force away from the dark side. And I bet it won't be much heavier either, but it is in shipping so time will tell...

    I am so done with new plastic bikes. Although my old Scott Addict LTD with the threaded BB and external cable routing can stay... ;)

    In a pinch you could use the butyl rubber bands that come wrapped around some tubes instead of o-rings.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by deviousalex View Post
    FWIW my Parlee FP30 to HollowTech II BB is metal pressed directly into a carbon shell.
    Yes, the Parlee ones always have been... and so are pretty much every other adapter bottom bracket available. None of them are PF30 bottom brackets. Did you mean to ask about adapter BBs?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by nhluhr View Post
    Yes, the Parlee ones always have been... and so are pretty much every other adapter bottom bracket available. None of them are PF30 bottom brackets. Did you mean to ask about adapter BBs?
    I was pointing out that in this setup there is no delrin as opposed to a typical PF30 setup where you have delrin cups.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by TricrossRich View Post
    using Praxis BB conversions.... no creaking here.
    Same here, plug and play, no noises.

  21. #21
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    Well err ... my ceramic BB30 bearings haven't creaked for close to a year.

    The key isn't because they're ceramic.

    The key, in my case, is to fine tune the thickness of the shims on either side of the bearings, and fine tune the torque of the spindle nut to find that sweet spot.

    I suspect my crank spindle is slightly bent. Hence where the bearings contact the spindle is crucial to keeping the bearings from wiggling as the spindle spins. Thus finding that sweet spot did the trick.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by myhui View Post
    Well err ... my ceramic BB30 bearings haven't creaked for close to a year.

    The key isn't because they're ceramic.

    The key, in my case, is to fine tune the thickness of the shims on either side of the bearings, and fine tune the torque of the spindle nut to find that sweet spot.

    I suspect my crank spindle is slightly bent. Hence where the bearings contact the spindle is crucial to keeping the bearings from wiggling as the spindle spins. Thus finding that sweet spot did the trick.
    It's not the bearings that creak. It's the pressfit cups inside the shell that creaks.

    That being said, I've got around 7,000 miles and 2 1/2 racing seasons on a PF30 Velo Vie Vitesse 300 with SRAM Force 10Sp. Not a noise at all from the BB.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corenfa View Post
    It's not the bearings that creak. It's the pressfit cups inside the shell that creaks.
    I realize it's the interface between the cups and the frame's BB surface that causes the noise.

  24. #24
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    PF30 with Praxis BB on a Cannondale SuperSix Evo and Parlee Z5Sli, and neither has creaked in three years.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by robt57 View Post
    Been there, done this. SL4 Roubaix BB30 with HT-II adapters, multiple Shimano cranks too. I wound up using very thin O-Rings between the adapters and crankset. Sold the bike after 6 months of no noise [from that]. However, the internal cable housing that was a full run for the [rear disc] brake tapping the speaker that was the Downtube was also very aggravating. I ordered a custom steel frame with thread BB and normal cable routing and have completed my path back to the force away from the dark side. And I bet it won't be much heavier either, but it is in shipping so time will tell...

    I am so done with new plastic bikes. Although my old Scott Addict LTD with the threaded BB and external cable routing can stay... ;)

    In a pinch you could use the butyl rubber bands that come wrapped around some tubes instead of o-rings.
    Nothing wrong with Carbon. My C-59 has a threaded bb. No problem what-so-ever.

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