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  1. #1
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    going from a 11-28 cassette to a 11-23, new chain?

    I just got a sweet deal on a new bike with dura ace 7900 a month ago. I used it up in Colorado for a few weeks so I ordered it with a 11-28. Well, down here in the flatlands of La, I dont use the 24 or 28 tooth at all. So I ordered today a 11-23 ultegra 6700 cassette without thinking that the chain may be too long. Do you think it will work out? I know I can take some links out if needed, but would rather keep the length as is just IN CASE I make it back somewhere to do some climbing and need to put the 11-28 back on. Probably should have gotten the 11-25 but O well. Thoughts?

  2. #2
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    You can use what you have. Since your current casette has 11 & 23 as well... (or is it 24?)
    My carbon footprint has cleats

  3. #3
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    Currently I think its a 24 on a 11-28. Length was my main concern. I'll try it out, if too long, I guess I will adjust. thx.

  4. #4
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    your chain won't be too long, but it will be longer than it needs to be.

  5. #5
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    how can it now be too long? if both cassettes have an 11 as the small cog...like drmayer posted, you'll have a bit more chain than you need, but ??? if it's not too long now, how would it be too long w/ a different cassette?
    if your chain was sized on the short side for an 11-23 and you went to an 11-28, then maybe you'd need to go longer.
    i work for some bike racers...
    2013 Trek Madone 5.9 w/ '12 SRAM Red
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    oh, those belong in another forum

  6. #6
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    Just wanted to pass on my recent experience changing cassettes and adding a new chain. I wanted to switch from a 12-25 to an 11-23. Purchased a new 11-23 and KMC X10SL chain.

    I wanted to size the chain with the anticipation that I may want to switch back to the 12-25 sometime in the future.

    I installed the 12-25 and installed the chain on big-big outside of the derailleur and added one outer and one inner link (total a little over an inch).

    Put on the 11-23 and set everything up. Too much slack in the bottom section of the chain. Perfect with the 12-25 though.

    I thought this was the correct way to size the chain but it didn't work out right for me.

    Sorry for hijacking the thread but I just wanted to pass that on for reference.

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the info, should have it in a few days and will verify.

  8. #8
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by redondoaveb View Post
    Just wanted to pass on my recent experience changing cassettes and adding a new chain. I wanted to switch from a 12-25 to an 11-23. Purchased a new 11-23 and KMC X10SL chain.

    I wanted to size the chain with the anticipation that I may want to switch back to the 12-25 sometime in the future.

    I installed the 12-25 and installed the chain on big-big outside of the derailleur and added one outer and one inner link (total a little over an inch).

    Put on the 11-23 and set everything up. Too much slack in the bottom section of the chain. Perfect with the 12-25 though.

    I thought this was the correct way to size the chain but it didn't work out right for me.

    Sorry for hijacking the thread but I just wanted to pass that on for reference.
    if you had sized your chain by the small/small method, pulling the chain just tight enough so it wouldn't rub on the derailleur pulley, using the 11-23...you wouldn't have the excess chain you have now. and you'd have enough to cross chain into the 25 on your 12-25.
    i work for some bike racers...
    2013 Trek Madone 5.9 w/ '12 SRAM Red
    2010 Cervelo T1 sprint bike
    Ruger 10-22TD
    Smith&Wesson M&P 15-22
    Smith&Wesson M&P 9
    oh, those belong in another forum

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    if you had sized your chain by the small/small method, pulling the chain just tight enough so it wouldn't rub on the derailleur pulley, using the 11-23...you wouldn't have the excess chain you have now. and you'd have enough to cross chain into the 25 on your 12-25.
    I started a thread asking how to set it up. Multiple people told me I should set it up for the 25 add an inner and outer link for a total of 1" extra chain and that would work for both the 23 and the 25. It didn't. That's okay though, I like my 25 more anyway. I find that with the 23 in order to keep from cross chaining I was constantly switching back and forth from the 50 to the 34.

    I'm in the middle of the cassette more with the 25 and I can stay on the 50.

    If Sram only made a 12-23 so there was an 18 available

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by redondoaveb View Post
    Just wanted to pass on my recent experience changing cassettes and adding a new chain. I wanted to switch from a 12-25 to an 11-23. Purchased a new 11-23 and KMC X10SL chain.

    I wanted to size the chain with the anticipation that I may want to switch back to the 12-25 sometime in the future.

    I installed the 12-25 and installed the chain on big-big outside of the derailleur and added one outer and one inner link (total a little over an inch).

    Put on the 11-23 and set everything up. Too much slack in the bottom section of the chain. Perfect with the 12-25 though.

    I thought this was the correct way to size the chain but it didn't work out right for me.

    Sorry for hijacking the thread but I just wanted to pass that on for reference.
    Yes, most people make the mistake of sizing a chain to the large cog/chainring, when the sizing should be done to the small cog and chainring. Once this has been done you can remove some links if you have more than is needed for large cog and chainring (a small weight and performance improvement) but it's optional. BTW, with a geared drivetrain, it is only possible to remove or add one outer and one inner link. Generally theses two links together are refereed to as one link; there are half-links out there, but they are primarily for single speed applications.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by redondoaveb View Post
    I installed the 12-25 and installed the chain on big-big outside of the derailleur and added one outer and one inner link (total a little over an inch).

    Put on the 11-23 and set everything up. Too much slack in the bottom section of the chain. Perfect with the 12-25 though..
    If you set the chain barely long enough for big-big with the 25, and it was slack when in small-small with the 11, then your derailleur doesn't have enough capacity to take up all the slack with 11-25 and 50-34 (effectively the combinations you're trying to size for). Those gear combinations add up to 30 teeth difference. Many short-cage derailleurs are rated for a maximum of 28 or 29 teeth, IIRC, though some will sometimes work with a little more. Yours apparently won't handle 30.

    One alternative is just to size it as you did, and not worry about the hypothetical slack in the small-small gear combination you won't use anyway. (you won't, right?)

    onespeedbiker, your approach works, IF you know the derailleur has enough capacity. In this case, if he'd sized if for the 11x34, and then put on the 25 cassette and tried to shift into the big-big, he might have broken something, because the chain would be too short.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCavilia View Post
    If you set the chain barely long enough for big-big with the 25, and it was slack when in small-small with the 11, then your derailleur doesn't have enough capacity to take up all the slack with 11-25 and 50-34 (effectively the combinations you're trying to size for). Those gear combinations add up to 30 teeth difference. Many short-cage derailleurs are rated for a maximum of 28 or 29 teeth, IIRC, though some will sometimes work with a little more. Yours apparently won't handle 30.

    One alternative is just to size it as you did, and not worry about the hypothetical slack in the small-small gear combination you won't use anyway. (you won't, right?)

    onespeedbiker, your approach works, IF you know the derailleur has enough capacity. In this case, if he'd sized if for the 11x34, and then put on the 25 cassette and tried to shift into the big-big, he might have broken something, because the chain would be too short.
    I'm running a Sram Red RD. I definitely won't use the small/small, at that stage I would be on my 50.

    I went ahead and put the 25 back on as I really don't use the 11 either. That's why I don't understand why Sram doesn't make a 12-23. Would be nice to have the 18 in there as I spend most of my time on the middle of the cassette anyway.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by redondoaveb View Post
    I'm running a Sram Red RD. I definitely won't use the small/small, at that stage I would be on my 50.

    I went ahead and put the 25 back on as I really don't use the 11 either. That's why I don't understand why Sram doesn't make a 12-23. Would be nice to have the 18 in there as I spend most of my time on the middle of the cassette anyway.
    If you really want the 18, you could use a Shimano cassette. I'm pretty sure they're fully compatible.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCavilia View Post
    onespeedbiker, your approach works, IF you know the derailleur has enough capacity. In this case, if he'd sized if for the 11x34, and then put on the 25 cassette and tried to shift into the big-big, he might have broken something, because the chain would be too short.
    Absolutely true. I would add that the first place anyone should start when determining chain length is to find out the limitations of your rear derailleur first; chain wrap and max cog. If you want to exceed these limitations, then you are going to have to deal with a chain that would sag horribly with the small small cross chain or a chain too short for the big big cross chain. I am of the thought that anyone that rides with a chain too short will eventually shift into the wrong gear and destroy their derailleur; that is unless you can adjust your rear derailleur so it won't shift into the large cog with in the large chainring; this is possible with some drivetrains, especially with rear derailleurs that are a little loose.

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