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  1. #1
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    help me beat this dead horse...

    Yeap, I read those threads, but can't find that piece of information that tells me that there are many of you out there riding with a standard 53/39 with a 11/28 or similar cassette.

    Am I that different. I tried the compact cranks and I prefer the standard 53/39, but need the low gears in the cassette for climbing the steeps too.

    I used to run a 11/25, but once I got a taste of the mountains 25t was not enough so I got the 11/28. I hear lots of peeps saying I should have a compact too...

    Is this mix wrong?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by hozzerr1 View Post
    Yeap, I read those threads, but can't find that piece of information that tells me that there are many of you out there riding with a standard 53/39 with a 11/28 or similar cassette.

    Am I that different. I tried the compact cranks and I prefer the standard 53/39, but need the low gears in the cassette for climbing the steeps too.

    I used to run a 11/25, but once I got a taste of the mountains 25t was not enough so I got the 11/28. I hear lots of peeps saying I should have a compact too...

    Is this mix wrong?
    Not wrong; what suits you, suits you.

    Personally, I can't quite wrap my brain around 'needing' both a 28 for the steeps and a 53 for the flats / mild downhills. It seems to me that if you can overrev the 53/12, you've likely got enough power to get away with less than the 28. But, riding conditions and personal fitness vary (for example a powerful but bulky rider in the mountains might apply here), so I'm not saying it's wrong.

    If there's something 'wrong' about it, it's that the 12-28 cassette starts to feel pretty gappy - a lot of folks like the closer spacings of a 12/25. And with the compact you can enjoy that closer spacing as well as the extended bottom-end gear. But if that gappy-ness doesn't bother you, then you are fine with what you have. And it's offset by the front gap, at least for some percentage of riders.

    I will also toss in the aesthetic point, not that it should really matter to anyone. There are a lot of folks that just can't bring themselves to use a compact, out of some misguided notion that it's not 'pro' enough. Whatever. The pie-plate cog has the same issue IMO, and to my eye stands out more. Of course, that might be a leftover from my oldness - back in the day, 130 BCD was all there was, so any 'bailout' gear was back there for the world to see. Nobody bothered to count the teeth on your big ring, and that's hard enough to do while riding. The size difference is more visually obvious on the back.
    A good habit is as hard to break as a bad one..

  3. #3
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    no it is not wrong. gearing is something you should choose based on what you like, not the advice of "peeps"

  4. #4
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    53/39 and 12/27 here.
    Quote Originally Posted by bigrider View Post
    Teh Lounge- "Its not just for weirdos anymore. It is for those trying to escape the noobsauce questions."
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by robdamanii View Post
    53/39 and 12/27 here.
    +1 and it works well just about everywhere.

  6. #6
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    Yep..

    Quote Originally Posted by hozzerr1 View Post
    Y
    I used to run a 11/25, but once I got a taste of the mountains 25t was not enough so I got the 11/28. I hear lots of peeps saying I should have a compact too...

    Is this mix wrong?
    I've got a compact triple on one bike, but I find it just doesn't do it for me. So right now, I'm riding with a 53/39 and a 12-26 9-speed cassette (SRAM). Personally, since I'm not racing anyone or powering downhill very often, I would *like* to see a 13-28. But that's unlikely to happen. I think Campy may make one, or perhaps Miche for Campy spline.

    I may just have to make one, DIY-style.
    This wheel's on fire/rollin' down the road

  7. #7
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    Go with what feels good. I ride a 53/39 tied into a 12-27 nine speed set up.

    I have lots of short steep climbs and some good power flats.

    Nothing bad about a wide range of gearing.

    Bill

  8. #8
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    As everyone said, gearing is real personal, like your sex life. You can share it if you want, but in reality not many people want to hear about it.

    On standard gearing, I run 52/38 and 12-23
    On standard gearing, I run 52/39 and 12-27
    On compact gearing, I run 48/36 and 11-28

    Was it good for you too?
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy M-S View Post
    I've got a compact triple on one bike, but I find it just doesn't do it for me. So right now, I'm riding with a 53/39 and a 12-26 9-speed cassette (SRAM). Personally, since I'm not racing anyone or powering downhill very often, I would *like* to see a 13-28. But that's unlikely to happen. I think Campy may make one, or perhaps Miche for Campy spline.

    I may just have to make one, DIY-style.

    Compact triple? Do tell, as I don't think I'm familiar, unless you're referring to some of the mountain bike drivetrains. Just curious...
    A good habit is as hard to break as a bad one..

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by danl1 View Post
    Not wrong; what suits you, suits you.

    Personally, I can't quite wrap my brain around 'needing' both a 28 for the steeps and a 53 for the flats / mild downhills. It seems to me that if you can overrev the 53/12, you've likely got enough power to get away with less than the 28. But, riding conditions and personal fitness vary (for example a powerful but bulky rider in the mountains might apply here), so I'm not saying it's wrong.

    If there's something 'wrong' about it, it's that the 12-28 cassette starts to feel pretty gappy - a lot of folks like the closer spacings of a 12/25. And with the compact you can enjoy that closer spacing as well as the extended bottom-end gear. But if that gappy-ness doesn't bother you, then you are fine with what you have. And it's offset by the front gap, at least for some percentage of riders.

    I will also toss in the aesthetic point, not that it should really matter to anyone. There are a lot of folks that just can't bring themselves to use a compact, out of some misguided notion that it's not 'pro' enough. Whatever. The pie-plate cog has the same issue IMO, and to my eye stands out more. Of course, that might be a leftover from my oldness - back in the day, 130 BCD was all there was, so any 'bailout' gear was back there for the world to see. Nobody bothered to count the teeth on your big ring, and that's hard enough to do while riding. The size difference is more visually obvious on the back.
    As for personal fitness I am a bit heavy 180lbs 6ft. and my lungs/legs are not where they were a year ago, when I was climbing lots with that 11-25darn it!

    The gappings don't annoy me as much, I am used to it since I ride tons of mtb and cassettes have large jumps. I usually work the 53/24 (don't like to x-chain to the 28) till I can't and then drop to the 39/21 or 39/19 depending how I fee and work up to the 28l. I live near the mountains by the coast so it's a downhill ride to the hills with some flats.
    Last edited by hozzerr1; 09-10-2012 at 08:55 AM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by hozzerr1 View Post
    Yeap, I read those threads, but can't find that piece of information that tells me that there are many of you out there riding with a standard 53/39 with a 11/28 or similar cassette.

    Am I that different. I tried the compact cranks and I prefer the standard 53/39, but need the low gears in the cassette for climbing the steeps too.

    I used to run a 11/25, but once I got a taste of the mountains 25t was not enough so I got the 11/28. I hear lots of peeps saying I should have a compact too...

    Is this mix wrong?
    Are you aware of the Gear Calculator?
    Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator

    Whether a combo is appropriate or not depends on context: your fitness versus the challenge you are trying to overcome.

  12. #12
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    I can't say I can use anything bigger than a 50/12 when I'm riding on my own. If I'm going fast enough to spin out that gear, I'm descending and getting into a tight tuck with the pedals at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock actually gets me a bit faster than putting power into the drivetrain does.

    What didn't you like about the compact? Drivetrains can be set up all sorts of ways, so to my mind, the only reason to ride a standard would be to hang onto the 53 ring, or if I already had one and didn't want something lower than 38 enough to pay for it. About the only way I can see myself actually having a use for the 53 would be if I competed on my road bike regularly and was trying for wins from field sprints or a leadout. And I'd probably still be better off either in a bigger ring than 11 or smaller ring than 53...

    To put it another way, what are you trying to get from your drivetrain?

  13. #13
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    Also got a 53/39 + 12/27 combo. Before, I thought of getting a spare 11/28 cassette but decided against it. In my first road bike setup, I had a 50/34 + 11/25 combo.

    I prefer the 53/39 + 12/27 combo. :-)

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by robdamanii View Post
    53/39 and 12/27 here.
    34/50 and a 12/27 here. Needed all that and more at the Devil's Backbone ride a few weeks ago.

    JRA? Not so much. I'm generally good with either a 23 or 25 big cog on the cassette, but I ride in a relatively flat place (outside DC)

    M
    I've moved back to NoVA. PLEASE change the weather!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by danl1 View Post
    Nobody bothered to count the teeth on your big ring, and that's hard enough to do while riding. The size difference is more visually obvious on the back.
    Back in the day, a straight block ending in an 18 or 19 low gear was pure sex-I still have a Superbe Pro rear wheel with an 8 speed Sachs 12-19 freewheel.

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