Hey guys, I have an older Shimano Ultegra 6500 with "ISIS (?) bottom bracket, as pictured. I though I was a pretty proficient home-wrencher... have built two bikes ... but both were with newer external bearing bottom brackets ie easy on and off. I took one look at this and don't know where to start.
How do I remove this crank and bottom bracket. I have a Park Tools CCP 4 "crank puller" for "Shimano Octalink and ISIS drive splined bottom bracket spindles that do not use a one key release system" and a BBT-18 splined bottom bracket fitting for " Shimano ISIS drive and ISIS Overdrive eight notch bottom bracket cups."
On the crank, I see what looks like an allow dust cap around an 8 mm hex hed (female) axle shaft. Th ePark Tools websit for the CCP4 (now replaced by CCP44) was not a lot of help.
That crank has crank extractors, not dust caps. Your 8mm allen wrench will take those cranks off, just go about removing that crank bolt, and the crank will pull off. Also, Shimano never used the ISIS interface, they had their own interface (that's not as good) which is Octalink.
So I just prop the bike up in the stand, then turn the 8mm counterclockwise until the left hand non-drive crank comes off? Then do same on drive side? Do I start on the drive side or the non-drive side? Thanks, Scott
You need to remove those center screws with an 8mm allen wrench. Then use a crank arm removal tool. Those arms are not self extracting. You will need the Park Tool CCP-44
Does the 8mm screw hold that outer ring with the two recessed nipples in place? So removing the 8mm screws will expose a female threeded inner diameter ring on the crank that I can pull out with the CCP4? WHich side do I start on? Thanks.
I added a picture to my post to help explain. You can start on either side. Does not matter.Just make sure to have the crank puller fully threaded into the crank arm. So get an adjustable wrench to help with that.
I added a picture to my post to help explain. You can start on either side. Does not matter.Just make sure to have the crank puller fully threaded into the crank arm. So get an adjustable wrench to help with that.
Thanks, pic is worth a thousand words. But the pick did not stick, can't see it on your post... can you please re-attach. Also, I think I am starting to get it. Thanks, Scott
You need to remove those center screws with an 8mm allen wrench. Then use a crank arm removal tool. Those arms are not self extracting. You will need the Park Tool CCP-44
The arms aren't necessarily self-extracting, but the crank bolts that he has are self-extracting. Really, just turn those 8mm bolts counter clockwise, and the cranks will come off.
The arms are self-extracting, but you can also remove them with a crank puller if you prefer.
To self-extract, do not remove the extractor ("dust cap"). Turn the crank bolt counterclockwise. You will feel more and more resistance as the (invisible) collar of the crank bolt pushes against the extractor. Keep turning and the crank will come off.
To use the crank pulling tool, remove the extractor, the crank bolt and, if necessary, he crank bolt washer. Screw in the crank pulling tool all the way. Push the crank off by turning the tool's center bolt clockwise.
When you put the cranks back on, be very careful to line the crank up with the splines. It will appear to line up even when it isn't. If you tighten the cranks when they are not aligned to the splines you will ruin them.
I have found that the best way is to remove the self-extracting cap (the piece with two holes in it) and the crank bolt (8mm hex). Then you can see that the crank is lined up with the splines.
Park makes a tool for the self-extracting cap, or if you have a sturdy set of circlip pliers they will work.
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Originally Posted by frdfandc
