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  1. #1
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    Italian BB - a dab of loctite?

    Converting my Pinarello over to Campy 11 speed group. I've been reading about a possibility of Italian bottom brackets loosening due to precession, not that I had any problems with the original SRAM installation.

    But! Might a dab or Loctite blue be advised on the BB cups? Thanks?

    -----
    Continuing my research, Park Tools recommends Loctite 242 (blue) for threads, or grease
    https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...icle-section-5
    Begin by preparing the threads of the bottom bracket. A thread locker may be used when the frame shell is steel and the cups are either aluminum or steel lockrings. A mild thread locking compound such as Loctite® #242 that is considered “service removable” is preferred. This means that the parts are removable with normal tools, without taking extreme measures. If no thread locking compound is available, grease threads heavily or ASC-1 Anti Seize Compound. For more on thread preparation see Basic Thread Concepts.
    Campagnolo does not discuss either grease or thread-locker for installation, but does mention adding grease when installing the crank.
    https://www.campagnolo.com/media/fil...ev02_06_16.pdf

    I've read a couple other articles and forum threads with no consensus on loctite vs. grease (or antisieze compound). Some people posted grease and 70 Nm torque. The Campy document above says 35 Nm, which is what I used building up my antique Cilo last year (English BB).
    Last edited by AJ88V; 01-07-2018 at 12:25 PM.

  2. #2
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    Loctite is not needed, I've never seen any need for it.

    Neither is 70 newton meters.

    Grease works great. After a few thousand miles, unscrew, clean and re-grease.
    use a torque wrench

  3. #3
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    Sooo... Gonna answer my own post.

    Upon close inspection, the threads on the drive side of the in the BB shell clearly had a drop of some kind of red thread locker installed. The material remained in the BB shell and was not on the SRAM cups I removed. There was no kind of thread locker on the non-drive side.

    Also, the new Campy BB cups appear to have a ring of thread locker pre-installed on BOTH cups. The drive side has a wide band of thread locker and the left side has a thin band of it. I'll take a pic and post later for reference.

    Cheers!

    Update: This YouTube video shows the threadlocker on the bearing cups
    https://www.google.com/search?client...RYTA#kpvalbx=1. In fact, it's the one I watched when building up the Cilo!

  4. #4
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    Pretty much all cups have that stuff on them new. Shimano does for sure.
    use a torque wrench

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJ88V View Post
    Sooo... Gonna answer my own post.

    Upon close inspection, the threads on the drive side of the in the BB shell clearly had a drop of some kind of red thread locker installed. The material remained in the BB shell and was not on the SRAM cups I removed. There was no kind of thread locker on the non-drive side.

    Also, the new Campy BB cups appear to have a ring of thread locker pre-installed on BOTH cups. The drive side has a wide band of thread locker and the left side has a thin band of it. I'll take a pic and post later for reference.

    Cheers!

    Update: This YouTube video shows the threadlocker on the bearing cups
    https://www.google.com/search?client...RYTA#kpvalbx=1. In fact, it's the one I watched when building up the Cilo!
    I was gonna say that the cups had a thread locker when unboxed, but you seen that. If you ever remove and replace the same cups it ain't gonna hurt nuthin' if you apply some lock tite. In a pinch I've applied a bit of nail polish or paint.

    Only Italian BB I've ever had come loose was a loose ball tapered spindle BB, and that was because once I had it adjusted I didn't tighten the lock ring tight enough. But once I re-adjusted things, and properly tightened the lock ring, the problem clearsd up,
    Too old to ride plastic

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJ88V View Post
    Converting my Pinarello over to Campy 11 speed group. I've been reading about a possibility of Italian bottom brackets loosening due to precession, not that I had any problems with the original SRAM installation.

    But! Might a dab or Loctite blue be advised on the BB cups? Thanks?

    -----
    Continuing my research, Park Tools recommends Loctite 242 (blue) for threads, or grease
    https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...icle-section-5


    Campagnolo does not discuss either grease or thread-locker for installation, but does mention adding grease when installing the crank.
    https://www.campagnolo.com/media/fil...ev02_06_16.pdf

    I've read a couple other articles and forum threads with no consensus on loctite vs. grease (or antisieze compound). Some people posted grease and 70 Nm torque. The Campy document above says 35 Nm, which is what I used building up my antique Cilo last year (English BB).
    Many years back I built up my first bike with an Italian BB (a Torelli). I did not have a torque wrench that worked with the BB tool so I just made it "really tight" . On my second ride the shifting got all wonky. I realized that the drive side cup was coming out. I redid it, this time with a torque wrench. I could not believe the difference between what I thought was "really tight" and the Campy spec. It never came loose again

  7. #7
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    New crankset installed. Dropped about 130 grams in weight! LOL

    In the interest of amusing my fellow man.....

    I had put everything together, torque wrench throughout, but then realized there was play between the crank arms. Not side-to-side, but in the direction of rotation. You could hold one arm and the other would rock back and forth. So I did it again with the same result.

    So I took it apart again, cups and all this time, and realized I was putting bolt that draws the crankshaft together in from the wrong side. DOH! (Campy, remember?)

    And this was after watching it on video and having installed the same crank on another bike last year.

    How do you "idiot" in Italian?!!!

  8. #8
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    Use BOTH loctite and grease. After all, if the cups come from the factory with a threadlocker and it's expected to use grease on the installation, therefore it must be permissible to use both, no? Spock would understand my logic.

    Apply the LOW STRENGTH threadlocker (even Loctite 242 may be too much if too much is applied) and apply it in the amount and in the location among the threads, as you see in the video you posted. Let it dry completely, which may take overnight. Then grease the entire thread span and install.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by AJ88V View Post
    ...

    How do you "idiot" in Italian?!!!
    "Sciminito".
    "L'enfer, c'est les autres"

  10. #10
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    I use Loctite 242/243 on problematic bottom brackets but usually do without. Most of my bikes are steel, so I just crank down "super tight" with a long wrench. Torque wrench on the carbon frames.

  11. #11
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    Loctite on BBs is a new one on me. Is this something specific to Italian BBs or to Campy? Here is another Italian BB thread from the past:

    Italian threaded bottom brackets

    I always use plenty of anti-seize on BB threads, then torque down to spec. No Loctite.
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    Loctite on BBs is a new one on me. Is this something specific to Italian BBs or to Campy? Here is another Italian BB thread from the past:

    Italian threaded bottom brackets

    I always use plenty of anti-seize on BB threads, then torque down to spec. No Loctite.
    Its an Italian threading thing. On English BBs the drive side is reverse threaded to counter the effects of the bearings turning against the BB and possibility unscrewing it. Ital ion BBs are threaded the same on both sides, increasing the chance the drive side can come unthreaded if its are not tight enough

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveG View Post
    Its an Italian threading thing. On English BBs the drive side is reverse threaded to counter the effects of the bearings turning against the BB and possibility unscrewing it. Ital ion BBs are threaded the same on both sides, increasing the chance the drive side can come unthreaded if its are not tight enough
    Ahhhhh, got it!
    "With bicycles in particular, you need to separate between what's merely true and what's important."-- DCGriz, RBR.

    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein



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