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Thread: mini-V brakes

  1. #1
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    mini-V brakes

    Just finished building a cross bike for winter riding but it will also be a do it all bike. When I put my road wheels on it, I find that as it is adjusted to the right rim clearance, it is impossible to get the noodle removed to allow for wheel changes. I literally have to remove the cable from the anchor pinch bolt in order to do so.

    Is there something that I can add to allow more slack in the system or allow me to adjust the amount of clearance like a quick release lever does on a caliper brake? If I was using Campy shifters on this build, I wouldn't have this problem, so any ideas or suggestions excluding Campy?

  2. #2
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by stan01 View Post
    Just finished building a cross bike for winter riding but it will also be a do it all bike. When I put my road wheels on it, I find that as it is adjusted to the right rim clearance, it is impossible to get the noodle removed to allow for wheel changes. I literally have to remove the cable from the anchor pinch bolt in order to do so.

    Is there something that I can add to allow more slack in the system or allow me to adjust the amount of clearance like a quick release lever does on a caliper brake? If I was using Campy shifters on this build, I wouldn't have this problem, so any ideas or suggestions excluding Campy?
    Sounds like 'the right rim clearance' is too tight in this case. How much lever movement to you think is good? I'd completely ignore rim clearance and go by how much the lever moves and what you're comfortable with.
    Remember, very little lever movement will mean your arms will pump up quicker and you'll have less modulation (control). With more lever movement your arms will be not pump up as quickly and you'll have more control.
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  3. #3
    coaster
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    What mini-Vs do you have and what levers?
    I'm inclined to agree with CX that you can just run the cable a little looser and have a little more lever throw but if your levers are already almost to the bar that's not an option.
    Different levers pull different amounts of cable and different mini-Vs have different length arms.
    For what it's worth my dad's Ultegra 6800 with TRP 8.4 setup feels great and has plenty of slack to release the cable.

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    I'm using parts I have lying around so its a Dura Ace 7800 drive train with Tektro RX 6 mini-V's. I hear what both of you are saying & its very true. Trying to find the balance of rim clearance that will allow wheel changes & not having the levers bottom out on the bars is what I'm having difficulty with right now.

    The rear feels great with lots of modulation & the lever is not bottoming out but I can't get the noodle out at that setting. The front feels a little spongy but I'm able to get the noodle out with difficulty because the lever bottoms out on the bars at that setting allowing enough slack to do so. I've never had such difficulty setting up brakes until this. Because of the frame design & Tektro's, the cable routing has been interesting to say the least. Thanks guys, back to the drawing board.

  5. #5
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    You might also consider trying a noodle with built in adjuster or a simple inline brake specific adjuster. Then set the brakes with the adjuster backed out a few turns. Then you can use it to release enough tension to disengage the brakes.
    Lever setup aside, I'd still use a tension adjuster. There were poor weather rides where I had to compensate for pad wear mid ride.
    Last edited by rcb78; 06-12-2017 at 04:15 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rcb78 View Post
    I'd still use a tension adjuster. There were poor weather rides where I had to compensate for pad wear mid ride.
    My solution was to live with little more lever pull than I was used to with calipers. But what I quoted is the only answer unless you want to remove the brake pads every time you pop a wheel off.

  7. #7
    PSC
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    I had same problem, I bought an inline cable adjuster and problem solved.

  8. #8
    coaster
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    OP, check out this chart of V-brake arm lengths:
    Tech Tip: V-Brake Arm Lengths | GRAVELBIKE
    The longer the arm the more cable pull the lever needs. Compared to my dad's setup you have longer brake arms and levers with a shorter pull. No surprise that you need to set the pads closer to the rim and have a longer lever stroke. If you wanna dump money into the problem buy shorter brakes (you probably don't want to spend the money for 11spd levers that pull more cable). Likely you don't want to spend more money so a cable adjuster and just living with it are the solutions but I thought you'd find the above chart interesting.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt View Post
    OP, check out this chart of V-brake arm lengths:
    Tech Tip: V-Brake Arm Lengths | GRAVELBIKE
    The longer the arm the more cable pull the lever needs. Compared to my dad's setup you have longer brake arms and levers with a shorter pull. No surprise that you need to set the pads closer to the rim and have a longer lever stroke. If you wanna dump money into the problem buy shorter brakes (you probably don't want to spend the money for 11spd levers that pull more cable). Likely you don't want to spend more money so a cable adjuster and just living with it are the solutions but I thought you'd find the above chart interesting.
    Thanks for the info. I did exactly that... used several inline cable adjusters & its all good.

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