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  1. #1
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    Cranks move as I walk the bike down driveway

    Cannondale CAAD 10 with replaced bottom bracket/crank due to ongoing issues with BB30. Bike rides and shifts perfectly. After this repair (sorry, do not have the info on what components were used) I notice that as I walk the bike, the cranks turn. None of my other bikes do that.

    Just curious as to why this might be happening. SRAM Rival cranks replaced Red as part of the repair.

    No plans to do anything about this, other than ride!
    Last edited by desaljs; 06-23-2017 at 07:49 AM.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by desaljs View Post
    Cannondale CAAD 10 with replaced bottom bracket/crank due to ongoing issues with BB30. Bike rides and shifts perfectly. After this repair (sorry, do not have the info on what components were used) I notice that as I walk the bike, the pedals turn. None of my other bikes do that.

    Just curious as to why this might be happening. SRAM Rival cranks replaced Red as part of the repair.

    No plans to do anything about this, other than ride!
    When you say "the pedals turn" do you really mean that the cranks turn? If that is the case it is caused by friction in the freehub being greater than friction in the BB. Assuming the BB is not loose, this is not an issue unless the freehub friction causes the chain to droop when coasting.

  3. #3
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    I believe this is usually a sign of the freehub bearings reaching the end of their life. Though it does seem like a strange coincidence that this only started happening after you changed the BB and crankset.
    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein

    "Beware of geeks bearing formulas."
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  4. #4
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    I do mean that "the cranks turn". Thanks for insights so far!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by desaljs View Post
    I do mean that "the cranks turn". Thanks for insights so far!
    If it was just the pedals, I was going to suggest asking a priest to bring holy water.

  6. #6
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    Try removing your freehub and giving it a good soaking.
    "L'enfer, c'est les autres"

  7. #7
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by No Time Toulouse View Post
    Try removing your freehub and giving it a good soaking.
    Wow...you're full of good advice. You have no idea what kind of wheels the OP has, thus you have no idea whether 'soaking' the freehub will help or hurt. Nor did you explain how to soak it or what to soak it in. Just stop w/ the bad advice.

    OP: Do you have Mavic wheels? If so, which model?
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lombard View Post
    Though it does seem like a strange coincidence that this only started happening after you changed the BB and crankset.
    No it doesn't seem strange at all. We're not talking very much force at all here. The old bb would have had enough friction to prevent turning while the new one is nice and free so turns.

    OP, it may be as simple as a little grease, or whatever should be used for your hub, on the pawls. That would be my first try.
    Lift up you bike and turn the cranks backwards. If the wheel turns it's the pawls most likely. Almost all wheels can be made to turn a little by doing that but I think you'll instinctively know how much is too much.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    Wow...you're full of it. You have no idea what kind of wheels the OP has, thus you have no idea whether 'soaking' the freehub will help or hurt. Nor did you explain how to soak it or what to soak it in. Just stop w/ the bad advice.
    Fixed.
    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein

    "Beware of geeks bearing formulas."
    -- Warren Buffett

    "Education is what you get when you read the fine print. Experience is what you get when you don't. -- Pete Seeger



  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Strongbow View Post
    No it doesn't seem strange at all. We're not talking very much force at all here. The old bb would have had enough friction to prevent turning while the new one is nice and free so turns.
    True. I stand corrected.
    “Statistics are like bikinis. What they reveal is suggestive, but what they conceal is vital.” -- Aaron Levenstein

    "Beware of geeks bearing formulas."
    -- Warren Buffett

    "Education is what you get when you read the fine print. Experience is what you get when you don't. -- Pete Seeger



  11. #11
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    Sorry, been away for a few days! I do have Mavic Ksyrium wheels, the same wheels that came with the bike. I will try lifting the bike and turning the cranks backwards to see what happens. Based on advice above, freehub bearings or pawls most likely culprits. When the riding season winds down, I will have it looked at. Appreciate the advice.

  12. #12
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by desaljs View Post
    Sorry, been away for a few days! I do have Mavic Ksyrium wheels, the same wheels that came with the bike. I will try lifting the bike and turning the cranks backwards to see what happens. Based on advice above, freehub bearings or pawls most likely culprits. When the riding season winds down, I will have it looked at. Appreciate the advice.
    Not the bearing, singular as there is only one. Not the pawls. It's the bushing on the inboard side of the freehub. It dries out and needs to be cleaned and lubricated. This is one of the worst designs in the whole industry. Luckily it's very easy to service, and it should be cleaned/lubed every couple thousand miles...I think Mavic recommend every 1000 or something like that. I would have it done sooner rather than later as it does wear quickly once the oil dries up. Yes, oil. Do NOT use grease. Mobil 1 works great, but any medium weight oil is fine.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
    Not the bearing, singular as there is only one. Not the pawls. It's the bushing on the inboard side of the freehub. It dries out and needs to be cleaned and lubricated. This is one of the worst designs in the whole industry. Luckily it's very easy to service, and it should be cleaned/lubed every couple thousand miles...I think Mavic recommend every 1000 or something like that. I would have it done sooner rather than later as it does wear quickly once the oil dries up. Yes, oil. Do NOT use grease. Mobil 1 works great, but any medium weight oil is fine.
    Is there an instructional video for how to do this correctly?
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  14. #14
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug B View Post
    Is there an instructional video for how to do this correctly?
    I do it the hard way:

    1) Remove cassette
    2) 5mm allen in DS axle end, Mavic bearing adjuster on the NDS, undo the bearing adjuster cap completely
    3) Pull it off, that pulls off the NDS axle end
    4) 10mm allen in the NDS axle, break it loose from the DS (which still has the 5mm allen in the end)
    5) Remove axle (now in 2 pieces, black alloy piece from the NDS, silver steel piece from the DS
    6) Carefully pull the free hub off the hubshell, be careful to keep track of the 2 pawls and springs, and the washer
    7) Clean everything
    8) I put my finger over the middle of the bearing in the free hub and pour whatever lube I'm using into the free hub
    9) Replace the washer on the top of the pawl tower, replace the pawls/springs, then while compressing the pawls reinstall the free hub
    10) Put the axle back in and tighten, using the 5mm allen install the bearing adjuster cover and tighten til it stops, then back off about 1/8 turn. Pop the NDS cap back in and you're done.

    I'm sure you can find any number of videos on YouTube if you search for a few seconds.
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  15. #15
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    I wouldn't wait till the 'ride season winds down'. Those wheels need attention when they start malfunctioning or you'll end up with replacement of parts in lieu of service of parts.
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  16. #16
    No lie, man!
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    I just noticed that my bike is doing the same thing. WI T11 hub with only 4500 miles. What am I not doing?

    I've already found servicing instructions, but thought it wouldn't be needed until a few more thousand miles. http://0104.nccdn.net/1_5/30d/138/24...ADJUSTMENT.pdf

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