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  1. #1
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    Rear wheel won't stay straight in frame

    I bought this bike a year ago. It's a 1980s Fuji Berkeley. Not sure how long I've been having this issue but it's been probably six months or so. I first noticed it when the tire was rubbing up against the frame on the left. I took it to my favorite LBS and they said a couple spokes were very worn out and needed to be replaced. Two different times I had them replace spokes and it seemed to help but eventually the wheel would sit crooked.

    I've been dealing with it by just re-centering the wheel every once in a while but it's basically a weekly issue. The tire never rubs anymore and I let it go for two weeks now and the tire is still far enough away from the frame to ride it without any issues, but I want to get this fixed.

    The owner of my LBS said a bolt-on wheel instead of quick-release would solve the problem. I'm a bigger guy (6' 240 lbs) and on an older bike like this, it's probably just too much and the skewer can't bite the frame enough to stay in place.

    Any ideas? I snapped a couple pictures to show how the wheel is sitting (I re-centered it after the pictures). I also popped the wheel loose to show where it bites on the frame. Maybe I need to scuff up that area on the frame with some sandpaper so it can bite better?

    Unfortunately, I'm not allowed to post links or images so I broke up the link below.

    http ://imgur.com/a/ihLpd

  2. #2
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    Get a better skewer (maybe find a better LBS, too). That kind of lightweight skewer with the external cam provides less leverage than the older style with the enclosed cam, which will get you more clamping force - something the shop should know.

  3. #3
    I play for keeps
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    Have you tried lubing the QR where it rocks on the saddle shaped bit? Doing this can allow you to get it much tighter. You may also have some luck with a new QR with a longer lever. Not to mention the fact that the knurled part of that QR may just be too worn to hold.

  4. #4
    Cycling induced anoesis
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    Check axle length in relation to outer drop outs. I've seen where the axle protrudes slightly past the outer dropout, causing the skewer to clamp against IT rather than the dropout.

  5. #5
    mtnroadie
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    Very common problem on vintage bikes w/ horizontal drops. Good advice so far the super light modern skewers will never be able to hold it in place. I use some beefy Salsa's with some Tri-flow on the rubber rocker to remedy that or a good vintage set like in the pic. You really have to tighten it very tight. If mine are just tight not super tight I can pull the wheel to the side on sprint.

  6. #6
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    You can even see how the cam on the rear skewer is severely worn where it is supposed to be holding the tension. Get rid of the worn, poorly leveraged quick release and put an older style internal cam on it. The type sold for use with trainers are bombproof.

    You should also tighten the derailleur hanger screw where it runs through the dropout, and find a better bike shop.
    Get a better saddle: www.kontactbike.com

  7. #7
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    Oh yeah. Your current QR is light weight junk; made for vertical dropouts. Go out and find a Campagnolo or Shimano QR. They are above and beyond the most powerful QR's on the market and I wouldn't use any other in horizontal dropouts (including Salsa; sorry).
    E fatto espresso divieto di partecipare alla manifestazione con biciclette che non possiedano i suddetti requisiti.Ogni tentativo di farlo a mangiare un piatto di grandi dimensioni di 3 settimane la polenta e in genere di divertimento, soprattutto se egli straniero.

  8. #8
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    Can anyone link me to a proper skewer so I have a better idea of what I'm looking for? And how do I figure out the proper size?

    Would something like this do it:

    www .ebay.com/itm/REAR-SUNTOUR-WHEEL-SKEWER-NOS-QUICK-RELEASE-VINTAGE-/120896054786?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c25f76602#ht_500wt_1413
    Last edited by nelliott500; 04-17-2012 at 04:43 AM.

  9. #9
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    Probably a skewer issue. You need 126mm spacing for the rear (current is 130mm road). The Campy and Shimano skewers are the best design and provide the most/proper clamping power.
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  10. #10
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by nelliott500 View Post
    Can anyone link me to a proper skewer so I have a better idea of what I'm looking for? And how do I figure out the proper size?

    Would something like this do it:

    www .ebay.com/itm/REAR-SUNTOUR-WHEEL-SKEWER-NOS-QUICK-RELEASE-VINTAGE-/120896054786?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c25f76602#ht_500wt_1413
    Yup, that's exactly what we are talking about. It doesn't even have to be name brand, just about any internal cam design will work better than your worn out external skewer.
    Get a better saddle: www.kontactbike.com

  11. #11
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    Great info, everyone. I really appreciate it.

    I ordered that Suntour skewer for now since it's only $8. If I don't have luck with it, I'll step up to a Shimano or Campy.

    I did attempt to tighten my derailleur screw this morning and found out it was stripped out. It would barely tighten before it would pop loose again. So, I ran to Lowes and picked up a replacement 10/32 allen key screw and now it's nice and tight. Went for a 18 mile ride and it didn't fix the problem but at least I feel a little better about how secure the derailleur is.

    I'll update this thread when I get the replacement skewer and take it for a ride.

  12. #12
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    I'd like to officially thank everyone for the help. I got the new Suntour skewer in the mail yesterday, put it on this morning before my ride. I made sure I put it on nice and tight. 30 miles and no movement.

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