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  1. #1
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    Shimano Direct Mount Road Brakes

    I have a 2013 madone 5 series frame with the intigrated brakes. It's really cool, but adjusting the rear is a PITA. Nobody sees the rear anyway so I was thinking of swapping it for a 6810 or 5710 rear caliper.

    For those that have a madone frame and experience with both brake designs, is it worth it? I'm not swapping the front because I can get to it easily enough.

    With the 6750 crank, The rear requires the removal of the inner ring or the crank for good access. For the shimano brakes there appears to be only one centering screw, and it's accessed from the NDS rather than the DS on the stock brakes. Also it looks like if you change rim widths you only need to adjust the pad angle and cable tension vs taking the pads off and moving spacers around on the stock brakes. There's some new 5710 rears on fleabay for under 20$, so this would be cheap in terms of bike customization....

    I have a pair of 32 spoke 19mm rims I'd like to use in the winter (weather and fatness) and I'm too lazy to swap them because of the rear. It would also be nice to have the 32 spokes set with 28mm tires and a 32t cassette for "adventures."

    Travis

  2. #2
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by traverpen View Post
    I have a 2013 madone 5 series frame with the intigrated brakes. It's really cool, but adjusting the rear is a PITA. Nobody sees the rear anyway so I was thinking of swapping it for a 6810 or 5710 rear caliper.

    For those that have a madone frame and experience with both brake designs, is it worth it? I'm not swapping the front because I can get to it easily enough.

    With the 6750 crank, The rear requires the removal of the inner ring or the crank for good access. For the shimano brakes there appears to be only one centering screw, and it's accessed from the NDS rather than the DS on the stock brakes. Also it looks like if you change rim widths you only need to adjust the pad angle and cable tension vs taking the pads off and moving spacers around on the stock brakes. There's some new 5710 rears on fleabay for under 20$, so this would be cheap in terms of bike customization....

    I have a pair of 32 spoke 19mm rims I'd like to use in the winter (weather and fatness) and I'm too lazy to swap them because of the rear. It would also be nice to have the 32 spokes set with 28mm tires and a 32t cassette for "adventures."
    Can you just center the brake by hand? I've worked on lots of bikes where the brakes have centering screws and have never seen the need for them. I set up brakes so that a forceful hand can center them - tight enough so they don't get knocked off center in normal use but not so tight that they can't be moved by hand.

    I don't know your particular setup so maybe this won't work, but if your only complaint is that you can't get at the centering screw, you might not really have a problem.

  3. #3
    'brifter' is a lame word.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kerry Irons View Post
    Can you just center the brake by hand? I've worked on lots of bikes where the brakes have centering screws and have never seen the need for them. I set up brakes so that a forceful hand can center them - tight enough so they don't get knocked off center in normal use but not so tight that they can't be moved by hand.

    I don't know your particular setup so maybe this won't work, but if your only complaint is that you can't get at the centering screw, you might not really have a problem.
    The direct mount brakes don't work like that Kerry, the Bontrager brakes have centering screws that must be used because you can't pivot the brake on one central mounting bolt, the Shimano brakes work in a similar fashion. They're mounted onto the frame/fork w/ 2 bolts.

    For the OP the Shimano brake will work fine.
    I work for some bike racers
    I've got some bikes, some guns,
    and a bunch of skateboards

  4. #4
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    I'm only doing the rear. The main reason is the cumbersome maintenance of swapping wheels of different widths and the centering screws being on the DS. I went with the 5710 rear brake because no one will see it and the ultegra is less than 20g difference. Can't justify $1+/g of weight savings savings. I'm sticking with the bontrager front because they look better on my frame and the fronts are easier to work on.

    For Kenny, here's an explanation of what I have.

    Trek Madone brake surgery - Slowtwitch.com

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