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  1. #1
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    Shimano E-Tube Project / EW-WU111 as of 2/21/2017

    I added the EW-WU111 to my Di2. It worked the first time, then wouldn't accept the passkey to reconnect with Bluetooth. Here's what I experienced - your experience may be similar or may not be so at least here's some info to help you out:

    Download the E-Tube Project app for iOS.

    Plug in the EW-WU111.
    Run the E-Tube App. Make sure bluetooth is on.
    Hold the button on the bottom of the junction box for about a second and connect with your device.
    Enter the passcode 000000. It will ask you to change it.
    It may ask you to update firmware.
    Updating the firmware may go to 100% and then say it wasn't successful.
    The EW-WU111 may not let you back in with your new passcode.
    You can try to "forget the bluetooth device" from the system settings but it may not be there.

    You may need to take the bike to a shop that can connect to the PC version (hardwired) of the E-Tube software.
    Once you've accessed the system, scroll down to the EW-WU111 and reset it.
    Update all the firmware on the EW-WU111 and your groupset with the dealer's PC setup.

    Go back with the iPad or iPhone and run the E-Tube software and do as I wrote above, and enter 000000 to access it again.
    It will ask you to enter a new passkey. Do it and make sure you know exactly what you enter.

    If it times out or doesn't work after the first shot, you can go into the system settings and "forget the device" and then it will allow you to reconnect with the passkey you entered when you were prompted the last time. After going through this exercise it seems to work consistently.

    Ok, so it works, however - there are no sync shift options at this time.

    When you update all the firmware and then attempt to set up custom shift options E-Tube reads that you don't have the latest version of the software, but the system has all the firmware listed as updated - here's why: The only hardware as of this date that supports synchronized shifting is the latest release of the Dura-Ace Di2. So, the way the system responds is to say that the firmware is not current for your groupset, even though it is.

    I called Shimano and they will soon be releasing a firmware update that allows other groupsets to set up synchronized shifting with the E-Tube project.

    I'm going to give a shout out to Sprockets Adventure Cycles in Port St. Lucie Florida for supplying the patience and support to figure all of this out. I've dealt with these guys a few times now and I don't think I've ever met better people. After driving hundreds of miles and spending hours on the phone trying to figure this out here's what the guys at Sprockets said when I called: "well, just bring it in and we'll figure it out". Figure it out they did. Great shop. Great customer service, especially since I'm from out of town and didn't even buy my bike there. Thanks guys ~

    Sprockets Bicycle Shop Port St Lucie, Fl Specialized, Electra, Fit Bike Co, Bianchi

  2. #2
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    Following the entry of the new passcode and update of the EW-WU111, it locked up and I was unable to gain access to the system via my iPhone. I was able to correct this by re-charging the DI2 battery and un-pairing the EW-WU1111 from my iPhone. Once this was done, I was able to access the system and update the firmware for all components. Perhaps the system resets itself following a charge cycle?



    Cheers!



  3. #3
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    Any chance that Shimano contracted out to Garmin to create the iOS software ?. Yuk, Yuk.

  4. #4
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    The firmware updates allowing 9070 & 6870 DI2 derailleurs to support synchronized shifting came out on 3/10.

    I have 9070, E-Tube on PC and Android accessed by EW-WU111 Bluetooth. The update was pretty straightforward other than needing to uninstall & reinstall the Android version on my phone after updating the derailleur firmware with my PC, Android version said the 9070 derailleurs needed to be removed! Seemed like the Android firmware didn't want to update without being reinstalled, mild nuisance.

    I setup 2 shift maps as per Shimano tutorial, my first being a full sync and 2nd a semi sync, pretty straight forward. The system didn't switch to shift map 1 automatically and I had to guess that clicking the junction A button twice is what allows one to toggle between modes. You have the default of shift synchronization off in addition to your 2 chosen modes. I suppose that little tidbit is captured somewhere in one of Shimano's online tutorials somewhere since synchroshift has been out for road on 9150 for a while but, I didn't find it.

  5. #5
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    If you aren't able to connect via bluetooth after a firmware update (to the battery or the wireless unit), you need to delete the device from your bluetooth device list and re-pair it. I believe this is mentioned in the on-screen instructions when you go through the process

  6. #6
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    Holy crap. Hard to believe this is about bicycles. Lol.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notvintage View Post
    Holy crap. Hard to believe this is about bicycles. Lol.
    Yeah, it's amazing the complexity of these electronic component groups but, so is the performance, reliability & versatility.

    I've been running DI2 for 1500mi and in that time have not had a missed shift, dropped chain or either derailleur come out of adjustment.

    I took a ride in 18F weather today, my first time with Synchroshift, I wore lobster claw mitts. Pre-ride I assigned the "A" switch on top of the left shifter hood to downshift the rear derailleur and the one on the right to upshift so I could use my thumbs to shift as the X & Y switches are hard to differentiate with the bulky mitts. I hit the A buttons about 90% of the time through the mitts, next time I'll just assign both X & Y on the left as downshift and up on the right emulating what SRAM does. Neat knowing that if you knock out a shifter in a wreck you can pull out your phone and assign the the shifting tasks to the other, a nice extra layer of redundancy!

  8. #8
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    In the rare case that forgetting the Bluetooth device in settings on your iPad or iPhone doesn't work, you'll need the dealer to reset the D-Fly111. This may not be an issue anymore as there have been a few firmware updates since I had that issue.
    Last edited by m20j; 2 Weeks Ago at 08:07 PM. Reason: Accidentally didn't quote the relevant post I was responding to.

  9. #9
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    In order to update the groupset with the new firmware you first need to update the etube app. After reopening the app the new firmware will be available. I somehow pushed the junction box button in the right sequence in order to activate S1 semi-sync mode. I wasn't sure what the various flashing light sequences meant and I wasn't able to go to S2/full sync. By going into my Garmin 820 settings and selecting the d-fly sensor I could easily change the shift configuration there. If anyone can make sense of the button on the junction box in terms of how it can be used to change from Default/S1/S2 that would be helpful. I downloaded all sorts of manuals from Shimano and I couldn't find any reference on this. Anyhow, the sync shifting is amazing. Love it.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by m20j View Post
    If anyone can make sense of the button on the junction box in terms of how it can be used to change from Default/S1/S2 that would be helpful. I downloaded all sorts of manuals from Shimano and I couldn't find any reference on this. Anyhow, the sync shifting is amazing. Love it.
    Two clicks on the A jct button to toggle between shift modes. IIRC the light sequences following the double click are a 2 sec solid pulse of red & green for default, 2 flashes for mode 1 and 3 flashes for mode 2.

    I didn't find reference to this in any of the online manuals either.

  11. #11
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    Had the same issue. Changed the password of the ew-wu111 with the e-tube project app and couldn't login anymore as it told me my password was wrong. After some try and error I figured out what the issue was:
    Passcode has to have exactly 6 digits. It doesn't say anywhere. It only told me that 4 digits were to short so I entered the same code twice to get to 8 digits. No error no nothing. Deleted the Bluetooth connection as told. Wasn't able to login until I just entered the first 6 digits of my 8 digits password a created...

    Also the app crashes when I tried to change the Passcode on the initial setup when the app tells you to change it. Clicked on cancel and changed the Passcode later on in the settings...

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