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  1. #1
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    Sram force front derailleur setup

    I just installed a new Sram Force front derailleur using an Sram clamp adaptor for a braze-on style derailleur, but I canít adjust the height of the derailleur to get the 1-3 mm between the cage of the derailleur and the big chainring. The outer plate of the back portion of the derailleur cage hits the teeth on my big chainring, but the outer plate of the front portion of the derailleur is still almost 1 cm above the teeth of the big chainring. Itís as if I need to rotate the derailleur clockwise to give the back portion more clearance and bring the front down towards the chainring.

    Anybody else have this issue? I havenít tried to shift with it yet, but I have never seen a derailleur fit like this and itís not what Sram specifies for setup.

  2. #2
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    Something sounds very wrong here. Any ability to post a picture?

    As I get it, you have a 10mm gap in the front part of the outer plate, but the rear part hits the chainring?

    What are the frame angles you're working with? I've never seen this, or even heard of it.
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  3. #3
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    It's on a Litespeed Archon frame. I have been running Dura Ace 7700 components with no problems. I finally decided to go 10 speed, so I picked up a Force groupset,.
    Either my clamp is off or I have something setup wrong. If I would move the derailleur back, that would give me more clearance for the rear part of the cage and I could drop the derailleur lower. I will post a picture tonight when I get home.

  4. #4
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    It sounds like the clamp is being forced to rotate in the longitudinal plane of the bike, that is looking from the side the clamp is rotating up in the front/down in the back. Is it possible there is something stuck on the inner surface of the clamp? Or does your frame have a lot of shaping at the seat tube above or below where it would mount? Does the clamp portion clamp in the same spot as your old derailleur? Have you switched to a compact?

  5. #5
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    Still running 53/39. No problem with other derailleurs. Tubes aren't weird shaped. Derailleur clamp is at about the same place as my DA 7700 clamp. I must be doing something wrong, but I can't figure out what.

  6. #6
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    pictures

    Here are the pictures. OK, tell me what I am doing wrong.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Sram force front derailleur setup-deral1.jpg   Sram force front derailleur setup-deral2.jpg  

  7. #7
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    I just switched back to my DA derailleur and used the same clamp that I used for the Force derailleur. No problems with the DA derailleur and Sram clamp. Seems like there is a problem with the Force derailleur.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Sram force front derailleur setup-deral3.jpg  

  8. #8
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    Looks to me like you might have the clamp on the seat tube rotated so that the mounting surface for the derailer is too far forward with the Force. I suggest loosening it and rotating it 10-15 degrees clockwise when view from the top and see how that works. This will move the derailer toward the rear of the bike and the rear of the cage away from the chain ring.

  9. #9
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    Well damn, honestly I'm stumped on that. The only thing I can think of would be to rotate the clamp rearward, and rotate the Force FD outward on the clamp, but I'm not sure that can actually be done.
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  10. #10
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    That's a puzzler. I've installed a few Sram front derailleurs and none ended up looking like that. All I can think is that maybe it's a design specifically for a cross bike with small chainrings, or something like that.

    Except that I don't think Sram makes a separate FD for that purpose. All their braze-on FD's have two mounting holes, one for standard size chainrings, the others for compact/cross. But you have it mounted correctly... The lower mounting hole that you're using is the one used with full size chainrings, the upper mounting hole is used with any compact rings. That really shouldn't matter, anyway, when using a clamp adapter to seat tube that doesn't have a braze-on tab... where you can slide the clamp up and down as needed.

    The only other possibility I can think of is if that particular FD is made for some special application, such as a bike with a more vertical seat tube. However, AFAIK, Sram doesn't make any variants of their Force FD (aside from the usual clamp/braze-on variations).

    I'd contact the seller or Sram and see if they can shed any light on it and swap out for correct FD that will work.
    Hey, I'm not going bald... I'm getting more aero.

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  11. #11
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    When I do this, it throws the cage far out of alignment with the chainring. Even then it didn't take care of the height issue.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mmorra
    When I do this, it throws the cage far out of alignment with the chainring. Even then it didn't take care of the height issue.
    If you rotate the derailleur counter clockwise in the adapter mount channel (until the mounting bolt stops against the adapter slot), then rotate the adapter clockwise to take out the angle, that should move the derailleur back far enough.

    Before you do anything else, make sure that the derailleur is squarely seated in the adapter channel. A burr or lip will rotate the derailleur when viewed from the side. The front edge of the derailler should be parallel with the seat tube. You might also try the other mounting hole in the derailleur to see if that changes anything.

    If it doesn't work, try a different adapter - they are not all shaped the same. A different adapter may locate the derailleur further aft. The front of the derailleur should be about 3/8" behind the front of the seat tube.

    If that doesn't work, file away some of the top of the adapter slot so the derailleur rotates clockwise when viewed from the side (as in your pictures). Alternately, file the slot in the adapter to allow the derailleur to rotate more in the vertical, as in step one. Only do these if nothing else works.


    If you look at this SRAM equipped Archon, you'll see that the derailleur is much further aft than yours. This is fixable, and the mount is the problem:

  13. #13
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    That was just the ticket. I had to do some extensive filing of the clamp, slotting the hole and removing metal so the head of allen could slide over to the inside. Thanks for the great advice.

    I have never had so many problems with a groupset. I had to put a spacer on the derailleur to move it outboard, because the limit screws wouldn't work. I also had to put a shorter screw in rear derailleur so that I could get the 6 mm required between the cogs and the derailleur pulley. Nothing seemed to fit.

    Thanks again for the advice. I want to try and race tomorrow and I thought I might have to switch all the components back to my old DA 9-speed.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by mmorra
    That was just the ticket. I had to do some extensive filing of the clamp, slotting the hole and removing metal so the head of allen could slide over to the inside. Thanks for the great advice.

    I have never had so many problems with a groupset. I had to put a spacer on the derailleur to move it outboard, because the limit screws wouldn't work. I also had to put a shorter screw in rear derailleur so that I could get the 6 mm required between the cogs and the derailleur pulley. Nothing seemed to fit.

    Thanks again for the advice. I want to try and race tomorrow and I thought I might have to switch all the components back to my old DA 9-speed.
    I can't imagine why you would have to do any of those things. The screw length thing doesn't even make sense - how could it be too long?

  15. #15
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    I had to back the screw out so far that the screwdriver end was hitting the rear derailleur cage. It probably would have worked OK, but the screw was backed just about completely out. Because the end of the screw doesn't have any threads, it wasn't held in the derailleur by much.

  16. #16
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    One last stupid question. The instructions for the PowerLock for the chain say point the arrows on the PowerLock in the direction the chain rotates. You can do this for one half of the PowerLock, but not both halves. I assume they mean just for the outside arrow. The halves would have to be different to get both arrows pointed in the direction of chain rotation and they are not.

  17. #17
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    I've never followed the 6mm spacing that SRAM uses for their rear derailleur. I make it so the upper pulley does not hit the cassette. Been using SRAM for 4 years, and every single bike I own (except for my wifes) has SRAM on it.

    The spacer that you had to use is dictated by the derailleur hanger. Some are a little narrower than others, so a spacer is needed to get the proper distance. It's been reported with some of the MTB SRAM rear derailleurs. But its not a common issue.

    Not sure if your Archon is a custom build or one of their "standard sizes" but if its custom, then there is a possibility of issues arising. There shouldn't be issues, but you never know.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by frdfandc
    I've never followed the 6mm spacing that SRAM uses for their rear derailleur. I make it so the upper pulley does not hit the cassette. Been using SRAM for 4 years, and every single bike I own (except for my wifes) has SRAM on it.

    The spacer that you had to use is dictated by the derailleur hanger. Some are a little narrower than others, so a spacer is needed to get the proper distance. It's been reported with some of the MTB SRAM rear derailleurs. But its not a common issue.

    Not sure if your Archon is a custom build or one of their "standard sizes" but if its custom, then there is a possibility of issues arising. There shouldn't be issues, but you never know.
    Titanium dropouts are not usually narrow. And 6mms is not that close. One wonders if the dropout has issues.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by rx-79g
    Titanium dropouts are not usually narrow. And 6mms is not that close. One wonders if the dropout has issues.

    Does the Archon have a replaceable hanger? Thats what I was referring too.

    Yes, one wonders if there is a drop out issue.
    You can't fix stupid.

    Quote Originally Posted by JoeDaddio

    I kind of wish it were legal to staple people in the face.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by frdfandc
    Does the Archon have a replaceable hanger? Thats what I was referring too.

    Yes, one wonders if there is a drop out issue.
    Dunno. But the spacer would indicate the hanger is bent in, and the short screw would indicate bent out. So that doesn't help.

    It's acting like the hanger is located too far back and bent, if anything. I don't see why the old parts would fit and the new wouldn't, unless a removeable hanger shifted.

  21. #21
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    Replaceable hanger that is very thin. Frame is less than a year old and I checked hanger alignement. It's dead on. The screw just has to be backed way out. It still works, it's just sticking out big time.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by mmorra
    Replaceable hanger that is very thin.

    This is the issue I was referring too when I stated that the derailleur hanger might be the cause of the use of a spacer. Its been documented over on MTBR.com that some bikes require a spacer with SRAM rear derailleurs. As I mentioned in one of my previous posts.
    You can't fix stupid.

    Quote Originally Posted by JoeDaddio

    I kind of wish it were legal to staple people in the face.

  23. #23
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    The angle of the derailleur's dangle is a common issue. SRAM machines shims for this that a shop can get directly from S.

    The rear derailleur thing used to happen quite a bit, but has really been a non-issue for a couple years. What generation Force is this?

  24. #24
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    Just got the groupset about 3 weeks ago, so 2010/2011?

  25. #25
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    Similar issue...

    I have a similar problem to what was discussed in this thread, but it's not on a new build. I have a BH G5 with SRAM Red which I have been riding happily for a few years. Just this evening I mounted a new rear wheel and cassette and the front derailleur appears to have shifted. The rear edge of the cage is hitting the teeth on the big ring, whereas the front of the cage appears to be adjusted properly. The derailleur does not appear to have slipped down the clamp either.

    Any ideas as to what may have changed and how I can fix this?

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