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  1. #1
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    SRAM Red Black front mech chain rub

    I have sram red (black edition) mechs running with a compact chain set and am having chain rub in the bottom 2-3 sprockets when in the small chain ring and the top 2-3 when on the big chain ring.
    I have messed with both H & L adjustment screws on the front mech but with no success ( rubbing on the other end if I open them out)

    Firstly is this amount normal or is there something wrong?

    Any suggestions on how to improve it?

    Would the new yaw front mech improve things?

  2. #2
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    The left shifter has three positions which include a trim position for the big ring that can eliminate chain rub when cross chained. I switched to a Force FD on my Red setup for its steel cage and only get slight chain rub in the small ring when cross chained, none in the big ring. This would certainly be affected by chain-line, limit screws and cable tension. I also have a Yaw FD on another bike which eliminates chain rub in either ring.

    A little bit of chain rub is not really a problem, and if anything, serves as an audible reminder of being cross-chained.
    ... 'cuz that's how I roll.

  3. #3
    'brifter' is a lame word.
    Reputation: cxwrench's Avatar
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    if you read the manual for SRAM drivetrains that aren't '12 Red you'll see that it's clearly stated you won't be able to use the small chainring and the smallest 3 cogs due to rub. in the big/big combinations use the trim click. if this still doesn't work then you're setting it up wrong. limit screws have no effect on what happens while cross chained. you set them up in the lowest and highest gear combinations and that's it. sounds like you need a mechanic to help you w/ set-up.
    i work for some bike racers...
    2013 Trek Madone 5.9 w/ '12 SRAM Red
    2010 Cervelo T1 sprint bike
    Ruger 10-22TD
    Smith&Wesson M&P 15-22
    Smith&Wesson M&P 9
    oh, those belong in another forum

  4. #4
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    Yea its more annoying on the small chainring as its just that handy extra gear or 2 without having to change up to the big ring. I almost never use the big sprocket on the big ring.

    Would you advise chaging our to a yaw FD to cure the small ring rubbing?

  5. #5
    RoadBikeReview Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by rgribbons View Post
    ...Would you advise chaging our to a yaw FD to cure the small ring rubbing?
    No, because IMO it doesn't need curing. Switch to the Yaw FD because the more rigid mechanism and albumin/steel cage significantly improve shifting, especially over the Ti caged Red FDs. The integrated chain catcher is nice too.
    ... 'cuz that's how I roll.

  6. #6
    'brifter' is a lame word.
    Reputation: cxwrench's Avatar
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    unless you're going really slowly you should be in the big ring more w/ compact than w/ standard, especially if you have a 25, 26, 27 or 28 big cog. small ring (34) and small cogs (11, 12, & 13) will nearly always cause problems especially w/ compact. they're kinda dumb gears to use anyway. i'd try to get into the habit of shifting to the big ring when you get down around the 14 or 15 when using the 34. this will save you grief in the long run.
    i work for some bike racers...
    2013 Trek Madone 5.9 w/ '12 SRAM Red
    2010 Cervelo T1 sprint bike
    Ruger 10-22TD
    Smith&Wesson M&P 15-22
    Smith&Wesson M&P 9
    oh, those belong in another forum

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by looigi View Post
    ... albumin/steel cage significantly improve shifting...

    albumin ??? Dang autocorrect.
    ... 'cuz that's how I roll.

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